GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Diana Airguns => Topic started by: chet on January 27, 2014, 06:54:05 PM
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whats going on with the RWS quality. i purchased a new RWS 34 22cal last june, within maybe 3000 rnds the piston gauls in the chamber, so i take it apart and deburred everything and moly lube it, locked up again within 100 rnds found a sharp edge on the skirt of the piston, deburred that and reassembled knock on wood, it is good after another 1500 rnds, so my buddy comes down the house and shoots my 34 and he likes it so he orders the same package as i did from AGD with the Hawk scope, nice package, i set the gun up for him and he calls me the next day saying when he cocks it there is a grinding sound after 42 shots from a brand new rifle, I told him to send it back or we can tackle it on our own, he got the gun to me and i ripped it down piston was dry as a bone, had to debur just as i did mine, i think i am going to cool it for awhile on buying Umarex products until i hear more positive things. this is not good for RWS quality standards
Chet
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I bought my 34 a little over a year ago and it was bone dry too. I broke it down and lubed it. I didn't have any burrs but I sanded it down anyway.
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Im really sorry to hear about your troubles. I owned a 34 I think it was around 20 years ago and after I bought it I will never forget the feeling of finally owning an air rifle with excellent craftsmanship and quality. If I was to buy another springer I would not hesitate to purchase a RWS.
I really would like to suggest that you take the time to make them aware of your troubles. Im not trying to tell you what to do but I think it might be beneficial if you would tell them what you experienced if you havent already told them.
Best of luck to you both.
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Thanks for the heads-up on the 34. I bought a Classic T06 several months ago and never opened it up. Now I know I should. I would rather not have to deal with Umarex and the warranty.
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I got my .177 D34 from MidSouth last summer. It may be (probably is) my ignorance but if my D34 is twangy or catchy or whatever, I can't tell it. As far as I "know" (I'm relatively new to air guns), it does what it's supposed to do and I can't complain about its accuracy either.
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I got my .177 D34 from MidSouth last summer. It may be (probably is) my ignorance but if my D34 is twangy or catchy or whatever, I can't tell it. As far as I "know" (I'm relatively new to air guns), it does what it's supposed to do and I can't complain about its accuracy either.
Add me to the above except I got mine 1/7/14.
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Don't have a 34 but I recently bought a RWS 460 and I must say the quality is exceptional. After 1000 shots, I broke it down and the only de-burring I did was to the cocking slot, and it was very minor. The piston and the chamber were absolutely flawless - no honing or sanding at all. From my experience, Diana/RWS quality is still top notch.
AR
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Me too,bought my RWS Classic 34 from Midsouth and couldn't have been happier.It's a great looking rifle and has the looks of very good quality and shot very well right out of the box.I did take it apart to give it a Lube tune but after doing so, seen that there was plenty of lube in it already,oh well,while apart I did look into smoothing a few rough spots,which again,didn't seem like there were many and put it all back together.I was very pleased with it and then I did the inevitable,I bought an Old School JM spring kit for it and installed it,just for GP.What I found was an even easier cocking force and a very smooth shot cycle.I love it.
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From my experience, Diana/RWS quality is still top notch.
This is exactly everything I read about them in just about every review. I would think that they would like to know about this issue. Human error. It happens to us all I guess from time to time.
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I just recieved one yesterday..haven't shot it yet. If it fails for any reason, back it goes!
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I just recieved one yesterday..haven't shot it yet. If it fails for any reason, back it goes!
Im sure you will be just fine. I hope the issue was an isolated case. Please let us know how it goes.
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mine had a little spring noise. 10 drops of lube on the spring and guides, and it's as smooth as a baby's butt ;D
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Still wondering why people buy new airguns? There are lots of experienced quality guns for sale. Can anyone give me a few good reasons to buy new guns?
Duck
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Still wondering why people buy new airguns? There are lots of experienced quality guns for sale. Can anyone give me a few good reasons to buy new guns?
Duck
....'cause we can?
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....'cause we can?
Yes indeed
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Hello from a newbie, I purchased my 34 T06 striker combo in August 2013 from PA with the 10 for 10 and it is sweet. I did replace the scope with a 4-16x50 for my old eyes a few months ago and it's even sweeter.
I would like to ask if anyone can point me in the direction of a video showing how to specifically dissemble an RWS34. I have checked youtube and there are videos but they are not 34's.
Thanks in advance.
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Congratulations on the 34. Nice AG. Here is a link to the disassembly of the 34...
http://www.powershow.com/view/15f33-ODA3M/Model_34_DIY_Tune_powerpoint_ppt_presentation. (http://www.powershow.com/view/15f33-ODA3M/Model_34_DIY_Tune_powerpoint_ppt_presentation.)
Suggestion to the Forum Moderator. This link would be handy to have in the GTA Library for reference to others.
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Is there any difference in the disassembly between a 34 and a 350? In other words, could I use the disassembly video of the 34 and do the same to my 350?
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34/350 disassemble the same.
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I just ordered a RWS 34 from AGD and expect it tomorrow. Any recommendations to a newbie on what to look for in order to insure quality set up. I would really like to get it professionally tuned eventually.
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Clean the barrel using Goo Gone on a pull through from the breech. Check the crown for burrs with a q-tip. Make sure the three stock screws are snug before you shoot. Then check them again after every hundred shots. If they are coming loose use Loctite blue on the threads. Mike at Flying Dragon Air Rifles has often said if you can't afford a tune just shoot it a couple thousand times. That'll smooth it out. :)
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I'm really new to air rifles, and I just installed a Vortex kit in my 34. Long story (Rant) short, I bought the rifle new, and I was unable to sight it in with the iron sights. I exceeded the mechanical limitations of the rear sight, and I was still 10" low at 10 yards. I contacted Umarex, and they suggested I just scope it. So, I read all about "droop", and then ordered a droop mount, and then a second adjustable Hawke droop mount. They kind of work, but I'm not happy with it. The rifle was dry, and difficult to cock. I watched an Umarex You tube video on how to care for it. So, I ordered the $50.00 RWS "Shooter's kit", and then I did what "Glen and Danny" of Umarex suggested in their video: I put two drops of chamber lube directly into the air chamber, and 4 drops of spring oil on the main spring. I subsequently busted the spring within a few shots. I returned it to Umarex, and they tried to hold the rifle hostage, demanding $200.00 in repairs because I over-lubed it! I refused to pay, and filed a credit card dispute with the vendor I bought it from. Umarex returned the rifle "repaired". The rifle had no power, and the droop was worse than before. I demanded a new rifle, and naturally they refused. I filed a Better Business Bureau complaint (Umarex has a bunch of complaints, and I encourage everyone to report them). So, I did some research & subsequently built a spring compressor. It's all pretty straight forward. Anyway, I found a big .25" size piece of the piston seal missing. It actually looks like it was carved out with a knife. HMMM? I used some fine files, and tried to "de-burr" the slots. I sprayed the insides out with gun scrubber, and mopped it up with clean patches. It looked pretty clean. I really don't know what I'm doing, and Vortex didn't include real directions. I put a little molly on the piston, and on the spring. I left the seal dry. After a few shots, I noted smoke, so I opened it up again, and wiped the seal down, and removed some of the molly I had on the piston. I just left it sticky. Not sure if that's right. I had cleaned the bore with Goo Gone, so perhaps the smoke is from that effort. I'm going to shoot it some. I supposed I can always add more molly later if it feels dry, and perhaps order another seal if I cook this one. I'm going to put the scope back on it, and see if it holds up. The take away here is that I'm not real pleased with Umarex. First they sell you the rifle for 200 to 250, and then the snake oil kit for 50.00 (Chamber and spring oil). They basically tell you to put chamber lube directly into the air chamber, which will destroy the seal and perhaps the spring. Then, when the rifle detonates and breaks the spring and cooks the seal, they say you are responsible for the damages because you "over-lubed" the rifle. Like I said, I was really new, and actually believed Umarex would put me in the right direction. One guy on another form described Umarex as "liars and thieves", and that seems to be an accurate characterization of their business practices. Had I known what I was getting into, I would have built a spring compressor first, and cleaned and lubed the rifle correctly. I won't buy another Umarex product, be it an air rifle or an MP-5 .22 clone, etc. I just won't do business with Umarex. If anyone can give me direction on exactly where to put the molly inside the gun, I would appreciate it. I keep reading "behind the seal" and something about the piston "skirt". I'm not clear on exactly what that means. Perhaps I would have been better off buying an HW, and I can't recommend anyone buy an RWS/Diana/Umarex product. They are just bad people. I’m sure there are lots of people that bought an RWS 34, and had no problems, and are completely happy. Well, I’m not one of them. I’m still learning, and so far I’ve learned not to listen to Umarex or buy their products. Good luck to everyone.
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don't know if ya want to call them liars or thieves. i will never go umarex again, as i mentioned in the first post, rip it down to be safe, i feel Umarex is gonna sink faster than the Titanic, just give them some time, what goes around comes around.
Chet
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Thanks for the response. The 34 calmed down, and the smoke stopped. Actually, I opened it up again (twice) and removed some of the molly I had on the piston, and wiped the seal clean (again). All looks good after about 100 pellets. I don't know if I had too much molly on the piston and it worked down to the piston seal, or if the smoke was just a result of the Goo-Gone being shot out of the bore. Nothing appeared burnt or blackened. Whatever the case, the smoke has stopped. Here's a couple of photos of the old seal. It obvious that something was amiss. So far, I'm happy with the way the Vortex kit smoothed everything out. Thanks again.