GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => German AirGun Gate => Topic started by: TooJung2Die on January 25, 2014, 12:02:27 AM
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This RWS 45 is the air rifle that got me interested in the GTA. It sat unused for many years in it's case. I researched here and other forums about the original leather sealed 45's. I made a spring compressor and bought a new main spring from Air Rifle Headquarters. I got the recommended lubes, moly paste and spring tar. I mixed up a batch of silicone oil and neatsfoot oil for the leather piston seal. When I was done it felt like the old gun had a renewed life. The "kick" I remembered was back. It dieseled a bit then stopped. This was last Spring.
Last month I got an Alpha Chrony. I was very disappointed to learn the 45 was only clocking 510 fps with 8.3 gr Superdome. I took it apart a few more times trying to find the problem. The seal was original but it wasn't damaged and was nice and supple after the silicone/neatsfoot soaks. This gun was rated at 830 fps by RWS and considered a Magnum in it's day. Something was seriously wrong.
Some may call it sacrilegious but I decided to convert the leather piston seal to something modern. Since the compression cylinder walls are mirror smooth I decided to get an o-ring conversion kit from Vortek.
http://vortekproducts.com/ourstore/Seals-Tuning-Parts/Diana-Piston-Seal (http://vortekproducts.com/ourstore/Seals-Tuning-Parts/Diana-Piston-Seal)
I got the Proseal28 as a backup in case the O-Ring28 didn't fit.
I was very nervous when I put the piston in the drill press and began drilling out the rivet that held on the leather seal. What if this doesn't work?!? There will be no going back! The rivet was soft and easy to drill out. The hole left behind was .200" the right size for a M6x1.0 tap. I got a M6x1.0 countersunk head screw and filed the head down until it fit inside the dovetail adapter. I kept the metal washer and black plastic washer that were under the leather seal. The o-ring assembled height is only slightly shorter than the leather seal assembly. I figure I gained a little piston stroke. I put it together with Loctite blue on the screw threads.
I lubed the cylinder and o-ring with Krytox GPL 106 oil. The o-ring fit perfectly. I was nervous before the first shots over the Chrony. The first shot with a 8.3 gr Superdome clocked at 840 fps, zero dieseling. That proved to be the average of the first 15 shots with a 10 spread. I can't wait to shoot it some more and see what other pellets do. I'm hoping it will break in at an even higher velocity.
I can only conclude the leather seal was leaking. It looked good and felt tight in the cylinder to me, tighter than the o-ring in there now. The "kick" is gone and it gained over 300 fps in velocity. The piston must have been slamming into the end of the cylinder. Marks on the old seal mount seem to indicate that. Some may think I ruined a classic air rifle but I'm happy to have a shooter that surpasses it's original design specs.
Photos: 1 leather seal, 2-3 o-ring conversion kit.
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Thanks for the post/review....very interesting! Years ago I oring sealed my leather sealed $19.95 Cummins Truckload sale Chinese B3 (hardly a classic) and picked up over 100fps velocity. Here is a "before" pic of the B3 leather seal........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Mods/Chinese/Chicompistontube.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Mods/Chinese/Chicompistontube.jpg.html)
Here is a pic after some piston cleanup and oring sealing.......
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Mods/Chinese/internalparts.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Mods/Chinese/internalparts.jpg.html)
Those were the days when I used "tar and molly" for airgun lubing. A couple seasons ago I "discovered" Krytox GPL 205 and Ultimox 226 paste in Dec 2012 and have been lubing all of my R9 internals with the stuff and they do work well. I was interested to find that you've also used the Krytox GPL 105 oil. Recently I also decided to try the Krytox oil instead of the grease and so far the stuff has worked VERY well for lubing the piston seal (both oring and the new style factory R9 seal) and I even went so far as to lube the spring guide with the stuff. My spring guides are tight fitting Delrin and the Krytox 105 oil seems to be a perfect lube for a tight spring guide and piston seals.
So far I've tested the Dupont Krytox GPL205 grease, the international version Ultimox 226 which contains extra wear and anti-corrosion additives, and now the Dupont Krytox GPL 105 oil and all have worked splendidly!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Mods/2ozGPL205.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Mods/2ozGPL205.jpg.html)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Mods/Ultimox226.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Mods/Ultimox226.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Mods/KrytoxGPL105oz.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Mods/KrytoxGPL105oz.jpg)
For me anyway.....gone are the diesel prone black staining molly lubes!
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So far I've tested the Dupont Krytox GPL205 grease, the international version Ultimox 226 which contains extra wear and anti-corrosion additives, and now the Dupont Krytox GPL 105 oil and all have worked splendidly!
For me anyway.....gone are the diesel prone black staining molly lubes!
Hear Hear! Thanks, Ed. You are a big influence on my decision to go with an o-ring and Krytox. I read your posts about o-ring piston seals and Krytox with interest. You have the advantage of access to machine tools I do not have though.
I do not use Krytox 105, I use 106. Probably very similar. I get Krytox 106 on my job, it's used in medical devices on bearings that operate under very high heat and pressure. I still use moly paste on spring ends. I have gotten away from using velocity-robbing spring tar. I also like moly paste mixed with Mobil1. I keep both of these lubes away from the piston seal and may we never experience dieseling again!
I got a kick out of seeing your o-ring B3 piston. You must've gotten lucky and had a pretty nice compression tube to begin with. The one I have was badly rusted and pitted when new, right out of the box. I honed and polished it until it was oversize but some pits still remain. I used a ARH Tesla seal and gained more than 150 fps over the original synthetic B3 seal.
Are you experimenting with dry lubes like molybdenum disulphide or tungsten disulphide?
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Jon, thanks for that post. I had a 45 once, and someday hope to either get the same one back from my friend I sold it to, or find another. That conversion sounds like the way to go. Congratulations a job well done! 8)
Ed, my 34 is still running strong on the Ultimox 226. No dieseling, and smooth as silk. I recently installed a new JM spring and seal in a friend's 34, and learning from my first overhaul, used the Ultimox a little more sparingly. The results were outstanding! Thanks again for your help last year when I replaced the spring and seal in my 34. ;D
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So far I've tested the Dupont Krytox GPL205 grease, the international version Ultimox 226 which contains extra wear and anti-corrosion additives, and now the Dupont Krytox GPL 105 oil and all have worked splendidly!
For me anyway.....gone are the diesel prone black staining molly lubes!
Hear Hear! Thanks, Ed. You are a big influence on my decision to go with an o-ring and Krytox. I read your posts about o-ring piston seals and Krytox with interest. You have the advantage of access to machine tools I do not have though.
I do not use Krytox 105, I use 106. Probably very similar. I get Krytox 106 on my job, it's used in medical devices on bearings that operate under very high heat and pressure. I still use moly paste on spring ends. I have gotten away from using velocity-robbing spring tar. I also like moly paste mixed with Mobil1. I keep both of these lubes away from the piston seal and may we never experience dieseling again!
I got a kick out of seeing your o-ring B3 piston. You must've gotten lucky and had a pretty nice compression tube to begin with. The one I have was badly rusted and pitted when new, right out of the box. I honed and polished it until it was oversize but some pits still remain. I used a ARH Tesla seal and gained more than 150 fps over the original synthetic B3 seal.
Are you experimenting with dry lubes like molybdenum disulphide or tungsten disulphide?
I use 106. Probably very similar.
The only difference between the 105 and 106 Krytox is the viscosity. If you look at this chart you'll see that the first digit of the number denotes either oil (1) or grease (2). The second digit denotes the grade standard (0), extreme pressure (1), anti corrosion (2), the third digit denotes the iso grade of oil used (0=5), (1=7), (2=15), (3=32), (4=68), (5=150), (6-220), and (7=460). So the "106" oil is about twice as thick as "105".
You must've gotten lucky and had a pretty nice compression tube to begin with.
Yep.....I had bought a couple B3s at $19.95 each and swapped out the best parts. I was indeed surprised with the roundness and finish of the compression tubes (not the pistons though) and all I needed to do was "sweeten" the ID for the oring with some oiled 500 grit silicon carbide paper. Here is a pic showing the "after cleaning up the piston on the lathe" and you can see from the compression tube under the piston that it was in surprisingly good shape....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Mods/Chinese/Workedpistontube.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Mods/Chinese/Workedpistontube.jpg.html)
Are you experimenting with dry lubes like molybdenum disulphide or tungsten disulphide?
Funny you should ask because a while back I bought a pound of 5 micron molly powder and messed with TRYING to formulate my own mix. I was using dry graphite powder as my piston seal lube at that time so I thought the molly powder would do the same and work better.......it didn't, the graphite worked better as an oring lube. Then I played with mixing the molly powder with 100% silicone oil and again, it didn't work so good. After that I "discovered" the Krytox line of lubes and have been using them since!
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I got around to testing some other pellets last weekend. I'm very pleased with this o-ring conversion kit. I was hoping to restore the gun to original performance. Now the old 45 surpasses my expectations and original 830 fps velocity specs. It has never shot or sounded like this before. It's quieter. The addition of a new GRTMSS mainspring from Air Rifle Headquarters didn't hurt. The original spring had collapsed after 30 years.
RWS Superdome 8.3 gr: Average 837, High 842 (very accurate)
RWS Diabolo Basic 7.0 gr: Average 892, High 900 (several broke 900)
CPHP 7.9 gr: Average 834, High 842 (fliers but accuracy approaching Superdome)
Now I'm curious about the ProSeal28 parachute seal I bought with the kit. Which is better, parachute seal or o-ring seal?
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After reading this thread I ordered an oring conversion and hope to assemble my 45 soon. Does your 45 have any spring twang?
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After reading this thread I ordered an oring conversion and hope to assemble my 45 soon. Does your 45 have any spring twang?
No spring twang. I'm using the original spring guides and no spring tar.
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I have a '85 model 35. will vortek seal kit fit this gun?
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what should the spring be lubed with?
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I have a '85 model 35. will vortek seal kit fit this gun?
It might if the compression tube is 28mm ID. Neither the 35 or 45 are listed as compatible with this kit but I measured my compression tube and it is exactly 28mm. I can't find a parts diagram for your model 35 so I don't know how the piston seal is attached. The Vortek kit is made for guns that have the seal assembly held in place by a screw. I had to drill and tap the 45's piston for the seal kit to work. Ask Vortek, they should know and will be happy to assist you.
what should the spring be lubed with?
Oh no, I am not opening that can of worms! ;)
General consensus around here can be found in this link. http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA2/library/Springer_Airgun_Lubing.pdf (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA2/library/Springer_Airgun_Lubing.pdf)
You are free to lube any way you please. Try a search for "spring lube", you'll find lots of answers. Your mileage may vary. :)
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Gotta love the GTA, the amount of info flowing back and forth is awesome.
Thanks for the thread
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I don't have a problem with the upgrade you did to the piston seal because you made it better. I don't know if old or antique air rifles are going to have any value beyond what they have today? The one thing I do know is they will have no value if they don't shoot. I think you did good and that air rifle will be shooting for decades.
I have a question for you. I may have asked you this before. I'm probably going to have to tear down the Diana model 35 I have. What did you run into when you removed the trigger? I have read some about the model 35 I have and the three ball bearings in the trigger. Did the trigger on your rifle have three ball bearings and how hard was it to take apart and put back together?
Bryan
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I don't have a problem with the upgrade you did to the piston seal because you made it better. I don't know if old or antique air rifles are going to have any value beyond what they have today? The one thing I do know is they will have no value if they don't shoot. I think you did good and that air rifle will be shooting for decades.
I have a question for you. I'm probably going to have to tear down the Diana model 35 I have. What did you run into when you removed the trigger? I have read some about the model 35 I have and the three ball bearings in the trigger. Did the trigger on your rifle have three ball bearings and how hard was it to take apart and put back together?
Bryan
http://www.network54.com/Forum/184474/thread/1227047934/last-1227241783/Diana+48-52++T01+trigger+disassembly-assembly++%28picture+warning%29 (http://www.network54.com/Forum/184474/thread/1227047934/last-1227241783/Diana+48-52++T01+trigger+disassembly-assembly++%28picture+warning%29)
Here ya go... ;)
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I don't have a problem with the upgrade you did to the piston seal because you made it better. I don't know if old or antique air rifles are going to have any value beyond what they have today? The one thing I do know is they will have no value if they don't shoot. I think you did good and that air rifle will be shooting for decades.
I have a question for you. I'm probably going to have to tear down the Diana model 35 I have. What did you run into when you removed the trigger? I have read some about the model 35 I have and the three ball bearings in the trigger. Did the trigger on your rifle have three ball bearings and how hard was it to take apart and put back together?
Bryan
http://www.network54.com/Forum/184474/thread/1227047934/last-1227241783/Diana+48-52++T01+trigger+disassembly-assembly++%28picture+warning%29 (http://www.network54.com/Forum/184474/thread/1227047934/last-1227241783/Diana+48-52++T01+trigger+disassembly-assembly++%28picture+warning%29)
Here ya go... ;)
That's perfect and what I need to see before I tear my rifle down. Thank you for the pictures and information.
Bryan
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I don't have a problem with the upgrade you did to the piston seal because you made it better. I don't know if old or antique air rifles are going to have any value beyond what they have today? The one thing I do know is they will have no value if they don't shoot. I think you did good and that air rifle will be shooting for decades.
I don't have a problem either. I had to do something. The gun was performing very poorly. I had it out for an extended shooting session yesterday and noted another benefit of putting in this seal conversion kit. The gun no longer requires any warm up shots before it settles. It was shooting right where I had sighted it in the last time. I set up plastic army men from the 99 cent store all over the back yard up to 30 yards out and had a great time "terminating" them. :) I find that if I set up my sight-in target at 50 feet it shoots almost perfectly flat out to 30 yards. The old 45 is back!
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I may have a similar decision to make very soon.
Bryan
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This is a very interesting thread, for several reasons.
Lubes.
I have a Diana 50, sold as a Winchester 450, it probably has a leather piston and needs some attention.
Then there is the B3, it is time to work on that one again, it has a synthetic seal and could probably use a new one as well as polishing the inside of the compression tube, bending the barrel a bit so its POI happens when the sights are centered, trying to make the shot cycle smoother and things like that.
Ed, thanks for posting the B3 pictures, they are always a big help.
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Note to all doing this conversion. An M6x1. Flathead screw can be found at most hardware stores. I happened to tap mine to 1/4"-28 and couldn't fine a capscrew locally.
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I have a 1987 45 I think its time to make a seal change . I'm going to give this a try . Do you think I should change the spring as well . If so can you give me the Vortek part number of the spring I should get . I found this video on how to remove the spring with a quick grip ://youtu.be/4JQXmqa2Uj0 add http before the : or go to youtube and type in Compressing Spring on a Crosman Venom Nitro-piston rifle
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Can't help you with the Vortek spring part number. Maybe someone else has used a Vortek spring in their original 45 and can help. I used a Maccari spring from Air Rifle Headquarters, P/N GRTMSS.
http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251488/2514165.htm (http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251488/2514165.htm)
I ordered the other Maccari spring for Diana and clones but found the ID too tight so I returned it. The GRTMSS fit perfectly.
BTW - I'm still using the first o-ring. Do not hone the cylinder if you use an o-ring. The cylinder surface must be smooth or the o-ring will fail prematurely.
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Finished this up last night so I thought. Reassembled and now the sear doesn't grab the piston I guess? When cocking the Piston doesn't stay latched
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More than likely you have coil bind on the spring, you might have to clip off a coil unless you shimmed the spring. David
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Finished this up last night so I thought. Reassembled and now the sear doesn't grab the piston I guess? When cocking the Piston doesn't stay latched
I had a buddy do this conversion on two 45's. One worked perfectly and he had weeks of issues getting the second one to latch. Comparing the two guns didn't reveal the problem. Cock the gun out of the stock and look at the piston latch. It's out in the open on the 45. He eventually solved the problem. For some reason the angle of the trigger group was different on the one that wouldn't latch. He shimmed it and now both his 45's shoot great.
Did you remember to put back spring #68-302231? It's easy to lose.
Jon
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Actually I clipped several coils off already. I'm gonna disassemble it again and try it without the spring. I'm trying to slow it down some.
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Success!!! The top hat was too long and would hit the rear spring guide while cocking. Now to reassemble and see how bad the spring twang is. I may try a piece of milk jug plastic around the spring or turn a Delrin spring sleeve up.
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I have found sanding the spring ends with wet or dry sandpaper on a flat under water and and adding a bit of moly to the spring ends on reassembly makes a HUGE difference in twang reduction. I also string a bit of sticky grease from coil to coil. Over time the grease redistributes itself all over the spring but it still helps dampen twang.
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I had read somewhere about using spray on chainsaw lube.
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Success!!! The top hat was too long and would hit the rear spring guide while cocking. Now to reassemble and see how bad the spring twang is. I may try a piece of milk jug plastic around the spring or turn a Delrin spring sleeve up.
How low do you want the velocity? At peak performance you can expect mid-800 fps with 8 grain pellets from a 45. Less than that with the leather piston. That's on the mild side compared with most spring piston air rifles.
My 45 doesn't twang with a Maccari spring and stock innards. I use Ultimox grease on the spring and Krytox oil on the o-ring.
Jon
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Still no luck, may have to shim the spring bucket somehow the safety isn't setting although I feel the sear drop in.
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In the attached photo does the pin go above or below the left hole part the clip part number 52-302219 . The left is closest the barrel .
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The pin goes through the elongated hole in the safety. You are going to have fun getting the pin through that detent spring. ??? I made a pair of short pins and inserted them in the trigger assembly before inserting the trigger assembly into the action. Then once the main spring is compressed and the holes line up, push the long pins through and the short pins come out the other side.
Jon
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Thanks I was going to make a pin and do that . But what I'm asking is does the pin go above or below the clip on the left side of the photo or the hole closest to the barrel . It looks like the pin on the safety side will go in easy but on the left side the clip looks to be in the middle of the elongated hole so I was wanting to know if the pin goes above the clip in that hole or below the clip in that hole . It looks like for sure the right side or safety side hole that the pin goes over top of the clip ,I'm just not sure about the left side hole . Do I want to push the clip down and run the pin above the clip or do I want to raise the clip up and run the pin under the clip in that hole? I read somewhere that it matters but I can't find the article now and I don't remember if you go below or above the clip . But it makes a difference . If its wrong something doesn't work right and the gun won't stayed cocked nothing cautches to hold the spring back or something like that happens if the pin is in the wrong side of the clip .
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The pin will go in easy in the right hole. You spread the clip wider and insert the pin in the left hole. It goes over the clip, not under the clip. The bottom part of the clip that is formed to make the detent will be under the pins. The flat part of the clip will be above the pins.
Jon
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Okay thanks sorry for the bad drawing its free hand with a mouse but the red dots are the pins and the black is the clip . This is how it should look right ?
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Okay thanks sorry for the bad drawing its free hand with a mouse but the red dots are the pins and the black is the clip . This is how it should look right ?
Yes, that is correct. The pins are inside the safety clip.
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Thanks Jon . I ordered a new spring . I had to go with the NEW Hi-Yield Crome Vanadium-K wire. I call and this is the one they told me I needed . http://vortekproducts.com/ourstore/airgun%20Springs/OEM%20Springs?product_id=154. (http://vortekproducts.com/ourstore/airgun%20Springs/OEM%20Springs?product_id=154.) The one you got and put a link to has been out of stock for months and from the email I don't think they are going to restock it anytime soon . I also ordered the o-ring seal . So after years of putting it off I'm going to give it a try . I'm just trying to get answers to things I'm unsure of like the one you answered . I have never taken it apart before and I just have some videos to go by so I hoping you can answer any question I have . Thanks for being hear to help use all out . I found this krytox 105 . on Amazon. Is this the right oil for the o-ring ? https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-MS1050101-GPL105-Krytox-Viscosity/dp/B00WE0DEKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489810476&sr=8-1&keywords=krytox+gpl+105. (https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-MS1050101-GPL105-Krytox-Viscosity/dp/B00WE0DEKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1489810476&sr=8-1&keywords=krytox+gpl+105.) Vortek is sending grease for the spring . One more thing for now . What length screw did you use to hold the o-ring onto the piston ? How far down did you drill into the piston ? Is there a link you can give me that you know of that shows the drilling process ? I think thats what I'm worried about the most .
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That Krytox will work great on the o-ring. Wonderful thing about Krytox, it will never ignite and diesel in an air rifle. I didn't know that stuff was so expensive. I got mine at work, left over from some jobs.
Drilling out the rivet worried me too. It was easier than expected. I used a drill press. The rivet is soft steel. First drill off the rivet head using a large bit. Then remove the leather piston seal assembly. Now you can measure the rivet diameter. Using a drill bit smaller than the rivet diameter, drill down the center of the rivet. It's about a half inch deep if I remember. Then pull the rivet out. The hole left behind was .200" the right size for a M6x1.0 tap. Tap the hole as far down as the tap will allow. I ground the tip of the tap square to allow the tap to cut as far down as possible. I cut a long screw down to a length that almost bottomed out. The screw head was too large so I had to grind that down so it didn't stick out. Use loctite blue on the screw threads so it doesn't loosen while shooting.
I didn't have any instructions to go by. I had to wing it.
Jon
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"I can only conclude the leather seal was leaking. It looked good and felt tight in the cylinder to me, tighter than the o-ring in there now. The "kick" is gone and it gained over 300 fps in velocity. The piston must have been slamming into the end of the cylinder. Marks on the old seal mount seem to indicate that. Some may think I ruined a classic air rifle but I'm happy to have a shooter that surpasses it's original design specs."
Great post and follow up Jon. I recently disassembled my Diana 45 (1988) in order to establish its internal condition. I was afraid I'd damage it due to its age and dried out lubricants. I bought this used from a fellow GTA member who hardly ran a tin through it. While it was bone dry the compression tube was shiny and smooth. I did notice what you described above in your original post. There was a small mark at the base of the tube and a minor nick on the seal. Why would this bottom out?
Since ARH was out of main springs and mine appeared to be in great condition I opted to clean it up and reassemble with the intention of converting over to the synthetic seal as you did. I have the tools but was a little intimidated to drill the old leather seal off of this beautiful old rifle. A chrony is on my list and like you I'll probably convert it in the near future. The power after my clean and lube was significant. I did sparingly use JM's black tar and moly, but used the silicone and neatsfoot soak on the seal. Also, used lithium grease. BB Pelletiers article helped a lot AND YES fiddling with that safety spring took a few try's.
Thanks for the great thread.
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So far I've tested the Dupont Krytox GPL205 grease, the international version Ultimox 226 which contains extra wear and anti-corrosion additives, and now the Dupont Krytox GPL 105 oil and all have worked splendidly!
For me anyway.....gone are the diesel prone black staining molly lubes!
Hear Hear! Thanks, Ed. You are a big influence on my decision to go with an o-ring and Krytox. I read your posts about o-ring piston seals and Krytox with interest. You have the advantage of access to machine tools I do not have though.
I do not use Krytox 105, I use 106. Probably very similar. I get Krytox 106 on my job, it's used in medical devices on bearings that operate under very high heat and pressure. I still use moly paste on spring ends. I have gotten away from using velocity-robbing spring tar. I also like moly paste mixed with Mobil1. I keep both of these lubes away from the piston seal and may we never experience dieseling again!
I got a kick out of seeing your o-ring B3 piston. You must've gotten lucky and had a pretty nice compression tube to begin with. The one I have was badly rusted and pitted when new, right out of the box. I honed and polished it until it was oversize but some pits still remain. I used a ARH Tesla seal and gained more than 150 fps over the original synthetic B3 seal.
Are you experimenting with dry lubes like molybdenum disulphide or tungsten disulphide?
"I do not use Krytox 105, I use 106."
LOL....I was getting low on GPL105 so I ordered an ounce of the thicker GPL106 to try........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Lubes/GPL105_106.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Lubes/GPL105_106.jpg.html)
"I also like moly paste mixed with Mobil1"
Molly paste has a petro based carrier and I really don't want any dieseling prone lube in my springers. I know that Mobil is a synthetic lube, however I can't find a MSDS sheet on the stuff to find out the flash point if it has one. Much simpler for me to use only Krytox grease and oil for lubing.
"I got a kick out of seeing your o-ring B3 piston. You must've gotten lucky and had a pretty nice compression tube to begin with."
Actually, my B3 pistons were "file and chisel" pretty rough from the receiver like this however the comp tube was surprisingly good so I didn't even work it...............
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Chinese%20Airguns/B3LeatherSeal.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Chinese%20Airguns/B3LeatherSeal.jpeg.html)
I took the piston to the mini-lathe and cleaned it up like this...........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Chinese%20Airguns/B3PistonCleanup.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Chinese%20Airguns/B3PistonCleanup.jpeg.html)
Then I fitted it with the oring sealed piston cap...........
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Chinese%20Airguns/B3PistonCap.jpeg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Chinese%20Airguns/B3PistonCap.jpeg.html)
"Are you experimenting with dry lubes like molybdenum disulphide or tungsten disulphide?"
Yep, years ago I bought a pound of 6micron molly powder............
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v734/wved/Airgun%20Lubes/6MicronMolly.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/wved/media/Airgun%20Lubes/6MicronMolly.jpg.html)
Previously I successfully used dry graphite powder that you use for puffing into locks as a non-dieseling piston and piston seal lube and it worked well so I thought that the molly powder would work better.........NOPE, powdered graphite worked better! Never tried the tungsten disulphide after the molly powder testing sessions.