GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: Fwawa20 on October 18, 2013, 11:18:37 PM
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Hey guys like to know where I can purchase on of these and get it reasonably quick and not wait 2-4 week before I get it?
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I'd like to know too.
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I don't know of any one making them for the 2100. I made my own. :) However it is possible to modify a 13xx setup by making an extension from a piece of all thread and a long connector nut. The flat top valve is a little harder to do, as there are only two ways to do it. No.1 is to build up the cone with JB Weld and then cut it flat, no. 2 is to make a whole new check end (my option). The problem with any other way is the check valve is in the cone. Cutting the cone flat will remove the check valve. :(
Here is a pic of the inside of the cap
(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b566/bowens440/1018132100-01_zps82fbefcc.jpg)
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So that cap fits over the cone??
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Look at the parts on Crosman site. They are pretty cheap. If your handy you can come up with something I'm sure. As I say parts are dirt cheap and ship quickly. Order a complete valve and a extra "cone" end.
I was able to make my own for a 1377 & 1322 from these parts.
CW
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If you went with the custom length 1322 piston route like Bart was talking about, and used a 1377 valve (or just the front half) that was flat topped that would work but you would lose 7/8" of pump stroke... (I have a 2200 valve and a 13XX valve sitting on my desk)
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So that cap fits over the cone??
Nope. That cap is the cone. The check poppet seat is just ahead of the o-ring groove.
(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b566/bowens440/1018132100-02_zps56c349c4.jpg)
Here's the piston I made, in place.
(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b566/bowens440/0917130850-00_zpsbff7a4cd.jpg)
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Whoa so if I order the parts I can get you guys to walk me through this? I'm new to modding pumpers been been doing basic lube tunes and chamber honing on springers... All this valve mumbo jumbo has got my racking my brain
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Unless you have a metal lathe, using the stock components isn't going to work out, and using a 13XX front valve half probably isn't going to get you any increased performance because of the reduced stroke, unless someone else has a good idea. I don't know if anyone makes parts to drop into those do flat top...
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The question that has been bugging me for years is, "Can one of the Crosman Co2 valve tops be easily modded into a 2100/2200 flat top?"
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In a word,,,No. The 22xx has a 7/8" od tube, the 13xx has a 3/4"od tube. The valve for the 22xx is ~1/8 larger diameter.
No promises, but you gents have me thinking of turning out a small run of flattop check valve ends for the 2100/2200/ 766. Is there any interest?
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I think I Would be
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I'm up for any power boosts.
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In a word,,,No. The 22xx has a 7/8" od tube, the 13xx has a 3/4"od tube. The valve for the 22xx is ~1/8 larger diameter.
No promises, but you gents have me thinking of turning out a small run of flattop check valve ends for the 2100/2200/ 766. Is there any interest?
I hadn't thought of mods to my 2200... but I would grab one just incase the urge overtakes me. ;) ::) :o
CW
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OK OK OK ;) You've talked me into it. I've put some thought into how to do it. I will start making the cutter. It will be a piloted single step unit to do the interior in one pass. The check seat will end up just behind the O-ring groove. They will use your factory check poppet. I will make a 4-5 in brass and 6-7 in aluminum for the first run. You will lose a little interior volume, but with my 766 that does not seem to be a problem, with the other mods done to it, it's pushing CPHP's at ~850 with 18 pumps. ;D
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NICE!
I guess I better place an order to Crosman for the other re build pieces parts!!! ;)
CW
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If. You don't mind could ya'll post all the parts numbers we will need to get this going ... I want make sure I'm getting the right pieces !!
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Eh guys what ya gonna do bout pistons, on my newer 2011 it is all plastic and no wiper...
You will have to sweet talk B.B.B. I guess,
?
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Gonna have to build or modify existing parts or buy and modify those. ;). That's the "fun" in it!
CW
Just want to link these posts for ease of use.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=48605.0;topicseen (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=48605.0;topicseen)
Could well prove pertinant. ;)
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I understand,
I just wondered if all did.
Fun yeppers,
I got mine from a bowed barrel and 5" groups @ 30 yards to
hitting a quarter 4 times out of 5 at the same with duct tape and drilled out .45$ nylon bushings,
I even had an accidental improvement when the first one I made I just drilled out to 5/16 and it took a lot of force to get it on the barrel.
I forced it on the last 3/4" and said to my self nah way to tight and so pulled it,
reamed it and the rest till they fit just right (still tight but not excessively )
I made these stabilizers because of a bowed barrel which I straightened but being the barrels are soft it went back to bowed.
so that is how I choked the last 3/4" of my barrel with a nylon bushing,
It really slowed it down with ultra mags but with the 7.4 points wow...
But making a piston with my drill press and a grinder ???
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Thanks Brian you posted while I was typing...
If it was not so near Christmas I would be in but have 4 grown kids, who deserve a little some thing and I just picked up myself a stepside pickup...
I do eventually (read May or so) want to pick up a 2100/AM77 to convert to .22 and flat topping to get 700-800 fps well ;D ;D ;D 8)
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For the piston, you buy a 13xx flattop unit from your favorite supplier. When you have that in hand, you go to Ace, Fastenal, Tractor Supply, or your local bolt shop, and get the appropriate size all thread for the piston. Also get a matching "connector nut" (one of these, the long one)
(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b566/bowens440/1021131241-00_zps04aee55c.jpg)
Use the all thread and nut to make the piston the right length.
To get over ~750 fps will require, a pin probe replacing the magnet (no more BB's), O-ringing the breech end of the bbl (a' la m-rod), and a lighter valve spring.
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OK OK OK ;) You've talked me into it. I've put some thought into how to do it. I will start making the cutter. It will be a piloted single step unit to do the interior in one pass. The check seat will end up just behind the O-ring groove. They will use your factory check poppet. I will make a 4-5 in brass and 6-7 in aluminum for the first run. You will lose a little interior volume, but with my 766 that does not seem to be a problem, with the other mods done to it, it's pushing CPHP's at ~850 with 18 pumps. ;D
Thank You! I wish I had the tools and your skills... I've already got an "O" ring method for sealing the breach so the bolt doesn't pop open.... I have "O" rings for .177 but I just don't have "O" rings for .22 cal...
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For the piston, you buy a 13xx flattop unit from your favorite supplier. When you have that in hand, you go to Ace, Fastenal, Tractor Supply, or your local bolt shop, and get the appropriate size all thread for the piston. Also get a matching "connector nut" (one of these, the long one)
(http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b566/bowens440/1021131241-00_zps04aee55c.jpg)
Use the all thread and nut to make the piston the right length.
To get over ~750 fps will require, a pin probe replacing the magnet (no more BB's), O-ringing the breech end of the bbl (a' la m-rod), and a lighter valve spring.
1. I NEVER put bbs in a good pellet rifle
2. for now I just pulled the mag out a bit with needle nose to seat the pellet past the port.
3. I was thinking( :o ::) :o ) cut off bolt and then cap with o-ringed bolt. (Do not know if my skills are about milling breech end with a drill press and end mill?)
4. pm me with cost I think you talked me into it... when I build the 2200 (unless I find one for a decent price) I would like to get 700 fps+
5. I like pistons with a wiper/oiler most I've seen do not have, also I hear the Delarin ones have probs with heating sometimes... (education about aftermarket pistons NEEDED) Please...
I have some skills one of my hobbies is making dulcimers and acoustic lap slides so I am teachable....
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I think I read some where that optimum valve volume is about 1/3 barrel volume?
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Alright, project started. :) Going to the Machine Shop Gate. See you there. 8)