GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Benjamin Airguns => Topic started by: cwlongshot on May 25, 2013, 09:00:00 PM
-
Hello guys,
I had some time tonight so I pulled the stocks off and made the bolt tool form a 1/4''x1'' set screw and a couple nuts. Then removed the bolt and drilled and tapped the breech for a Williams peep.
Then I cleaned up the metal work and removed the safety and cap. Then spring and hammer. I watched a clip on UTube on making a Valve lock nut tool out of a 1/4'' bit extension. Worked perfectly!
Thats where I am stuck... I cannot get the insides of the valve out and I think I read of another tool to remove this... BUT cannot find how to make it.
This is a old rocker safety but as per the SN its a '82 gun and still has the soldered in valve. SO I ordered the rebuild parts from MAC1 along with a FTP and some O rings I needed. Anyone know how quick/slow he ships? I know its a holiday weekend so likely it ain't moving till Tuesday at the earliest.
Tomorrow I will start the re-finish on the wood. I have another Marlin rifle pad. I have not yet decided if I will add it. I did last time because the stock was water damaged and I needed to trim off 1/4''. I DO like how it turned out so ill likely do another on this one.
Help is MOST appreciated! ::) ;) ;)
CW
-
Sorry, can't help with the tool, but I did order secret sauce and o-rings from Tim. Placed the order late Sunday night, received it in Thursday's mail.
-
One end of the tool has the square drive the other end is threaded to screw into the valve guts to pull them out.
-
I did find this, hope it helps.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild (http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild)
-
Yep that's the strip down I used I can check the threaded end of the tool and give you size and pitch if you need then you can go to Casa deDepot and get some althread to use to pull the valve.
-
If you order the kit from PA it comes with the tool
-
I did find this, hope it helps.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild (http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/message/1177168737/sheridan+C9+rebuild)
Thanks again! Good read! I ordered the tool (12$) from B&A.
If you order the kit from PA it comes with the tool
Yea I saw that Zippy, but its currently out of stock. (Thank you!) As I mentioned, I prefer to support Timmy at MAC1. Who also has the kits in stock.
I
CW
-
FYI the tool dia is .500 and it is drilled and tapped 1/4-28. Yes Tim is a good guy, got a Steriod Rocker myself.
-
FYI the tool dia is .500 and it is drilled and tapped 1/4-28. Yes Tim is a good guy, got a Steroid Rocker myself.
WELL now. ;D I watched one crony test on U tube of both a std 'dan and Steroid 'dan over a chronograph. Not as much of a velocity gain as I expected. But still a nice improvement! Ill do mine same way once I get them both going! Have you had yours over a crony? I placed a order yesterday for some HVY Eun Jin pellets for it. PA has been unavailable for so long I went to straight shooters to get them.
I wish I knew the thread specs before placing the order... :o :o ::) ::) I can make that NO PROBLEM! The nut driver tool was cake to make. This will only be a tad harder! It will probably take me longer to find appropriate stock to use than it will to drill and tap a 14/28 hole! LOL THANKS FOR POSTING!!!
OK UPDATE TIME!!
Today between jobs I was able to drill some 5/16 hard wood dowels and I plugged the butt plate screw holes I previously made.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zps61793c06.jpg)
Then I squared and trimmed the stock for the pad.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zpsce3eef41.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zps20c322f7.jpg)
Then carefully measured and mounted the used Marlin pad. I had to be careful as it was real close to the same size as the Sheridan wood. I had to be sure it was overhanging all around or it would not come out right.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zps1c8d8c22.jpg)
Then I completely sanded the stocks. I started with a orbital and 80g paper. Then all by hand, to 100g, then 150 then 220 and over to steel wool finishing with 0000 grade. Each time I whipped the wood with a damp cloth to raise the grain. (Whisker the wood)
This is right after the 100g
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zps452c4c36.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zps35a5c8e7.jpg)
I was able to get two coats of TRU-Oil on today. The first just sucked right in and was dry to the touch in less than a hour. But I let it sit for about 4 hours before applying second coat before I left tonight.
This is a kinda crappy pic of one coat.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zps7a4203c2.jpg)
The wood really is a deep and rich brown color that I really like in Walnut. Usually I do at least 6 coats with steel wool between each. So for the next couple days I should get two coats a day with 12 hrs dry time between each.
Stay tuned... ::) ;D ;D ;D
CW
-
Great work on the stock CW, I need to do that to the stock of the '68 I got, the original finish is worn in some areas. I found this old thread with some of Tim's wisdom on rebuild kit parts. About half way down the page.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=25123.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=25123.0)
-
Great work on the stock CW, I need to do that to the stock of the '68 I got, the original finish is worn in some areas. I found this old thread with some of Tim's wisdom on rebuild kit parts. About half way down the page.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=25123.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=25123.0)
Thanks brother!! I missed that one!! GOOD, but a bit disparaging information about the lead in the threads... :-\ :-\ :-\ I'll have to see what I can do about it... I can see something that looks like lead down in the tube. I wondered what it was...now I know. :o It would break my heart to fudge up the threads in that valve... Timmy make it sound like a fools journey to even try. ???
Hopefully I will have time to make the tool Zippy informed us about.
Stay tuned... ;)
CW
-
I started pulling the action apart. I had to make a couple tools first.
1) Bolt nut removal tool. Made from a 1'' (Longer is fine) 1/4/20 set screw and two nuts threaded on the setscrew and jammed together. Then grind the threads down near the end so it fits in the hole where the bolt is.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Tools/null_zps6508662b.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Tools/null_zpse0dcc3cb.jpg)
2) I made a Valve nut tool form a cheap 1/4'' nut driver extension. First drill the 1/4'' hex with a 9/32'' bit. Then using a grinder grind flats to from a square. Be sure to leave the corners rounded. Not allot needs to be removed to make the flats.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Tools/null_zps487721dc.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Tools/null_zps09cc32e6.jpg)
3) The tool to remove the internals of the valve. Now this one I may have wrong... I drilled and tapped a piece of 1/2'' round stock 12'' long. Using a 1/4-28 tap. Then drilled a 1/4'' hole thru the other end for extra leverage.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Tools/null_zps5a734ea6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Tools/null_zpsb6b813a6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Tools/null_zpsb7fc1665.jpg)
I got all but the internals of the valve apart.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zps50d1fd8b.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zpsa2f644ea.jpg)
I need some clarification on the 1/4-28 tapped hole... My tool will not thread on. :-[
SO, I moved on the mounting the Williams Peep site I picked up off Ebay.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zpsdd0b1664.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zps62b1268f.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/null_zpsc1becdb2.jpg)
I ordered the Valve tool from B&A airguns and the valve and seal parts from Timmy over at MAC1 Airguns in California.
The tool is under accessories and scroll down to Benjamin / Sheridan
The seals and parts form Mac1. http://www.mac1airgunshop.com/rebuild-parts-s/1826.htm?searching=Y&sort=2&cat=1826&show=10&page=2 (http://www.mac1airgunshop.com/rebuild-parts-s/1826.htm?searching=Y&sort=2&cat=1826&show=10&page=2)
More when I get parts or figure out what I am doing wrong with my valve tool threads... ::) :o ;)
CW
-
FYI the tool dia is .500 and it is drilled and tapped 1/4-28. Yes Tim is a good guy, got a Steriod Rocker myself.
Zip,
Can you double check the threads on your tool please? I made one, but it will not thread onto my part... Its not easy to see, but it appears bigger then 1/4''...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Tools/null_zpsb6b813a6.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Tools/null_zps5a734ea6.jpg)
CW
-
Going by memory, it is a 9/32" x 32 thread, good luck finding that at your ace hardware. The tool you ordered will come with the threaded end. Most soldered dans used a lead seal at the base of the valve body, then a synthetic seal between the valve and the retaining nut, or maybe it's vice versa. But lots of people just use synthetic, I think thats how Mac1 kits come, and some even use o-rings. In any event, you need to get all of the old seals out, after you pull the valve body, and get it all clean and smooth with no nicks or gouges and flat .
-
Actually, if it still pumps, you might be able to pressure the valve out, just put on end on a rag and pump away. THe only thing holding in the valve at this point is the lead seal and/or years of accumulated gunk.
-
Actually, if it still pumps, you might be able to pressure the valve out, just put on end on a rag and pump away. THe only thing holding in the valve at this point is the lead seal and/or years of accumulated gunk.
That was my suggestion too! if you've got the ring off the back of the valve just pump it with the butt end pointing at a box of rags...
-
Thanks guys... 9/32-32 huh... figures, thats $50 at my supplier... :o :o :o :o
Your right looks like the B&A tool will be my saving grace. :P
I think the check valve is toast, or seal shot as it will not take any pump pressure. (But I did try. ::) )
Guess I'll have to wait, no biggie really as I dont have parts yet anyhow. I just anted to get started and maybe clean things up for when parts arrived...
I was able to get another coat of TRU-Oil on the wood!
CW
-
CW yep my bad put the calipers to it measured .255 looked at the threads with thread gage but hard to see called it 1/4-28. I was wrong figures they would use a toolmakers thread just like the peep bolt size. Old school. Again my bad.
-
CW yep my bad put the calipers to it measured .255 looked at the threads with thread gage but hard to see called it 1/4-28. I was wrong figures they would use a toolmakers thread just like the peep bolt size. Old school. Again my bad.
NO WORRIES BROTHER!! ;) ;) ;)
Today I decided eight coats was enough. The stocks are done sans the final semi gloss rub down. But I have to let them fully cure first.
Here is what I have now, pretty good I think. ;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Sheridan%20wood/null_zps1765aa9c.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Sheridan%20wood/null_zps12d2fac4.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Sheridan%20wood/null_zpse6797a91.jpg)
CW
-
Those look great CW, I like the look with the butt pad on there.
-
Looks great man, is this the one that you loaned out and were waiting on it to return?
-
Looks great man, is this the one that you loaned out and were waiting on it to return?
Thats the one Al!!
It was not in too bad condition. a couple dents and scratches but entirely serviceable. Accept the seals where shot, will not pump. I think its the check valve in the main valve.
I have a rebuild kit and the needed tool in route to me.
Stay tuned, I will outline the whole process here. ;) ;)
CW
-
CW you are certainly doing the old girl right, looks fine nice job on the butt pad too.
-
I got mine tuned in with the JSB 13.7 exacts yesterday and I was thinking you know this thing would shoot a lot better if I had a nice butt plate to rest my shoulder on instead of this hunk of wood....
So looks like I am off in search of a suitable butt plate, where did you get yours?
-
I like it too, I"m going to go thru my stuff and see if I have any old, excess butt plates or recoil pads. Great job.
-
I got mine tuned in with the JSB 13.7 exacts yesterday and I was thinking you know this thing would shoot a lot better if I had a nice butt plate to rest my shoulder on instead of this hunk of wood....
So looks like I am off in search of a suitable butt plate, where did you get yours?
I like it too, I"m going to go thru my stuff and see if I have any old, excess butt plates or recoil pads. Great job.
Thank you again for the compliments! ;D ;D
I have a ''few'' Marlin rifles. ::) The couple that I use allot are the same ones I load for, usually shoot and recoil a bit more. :o ::) So I put a Limb Saver, Grind to fit pad on them. SO I had a couple factory Marlin pads saved for just such a purpose.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Marlins/375STOCKR.jpg)
If you cannot find any, look to Pachmayer for a ''rifle'' pad. The have a couple thin models like what I used. We know its not for recoil, b]ts simply to get a better shoulder plant for better ergonomics and over all better shooting.
CW
-
I received the tool today form B&A... FAST DELIVERY!!!!
Waiting on parts...
CW
-
Did you pull the guts yet?
-
Did you pull the guts yet?
Why yes! YES I did! ;)
I THINK I have it all out...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/A76040BC-DD3D-45FC-9C1B-30D2620074A6-3872-000005947C939D86_zpsffe16db1.jpg)
Its not too dirty inside either...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/FF9093BE-01B0-4904-AACB-2D03304A3D3C-3872-0000059467CDB944_zpsdfbcfd31.jpg)
I did find a bit of debris under the stem and a split Oring. Also the front spring is TOAST!! Feels like all the spring s outta it! LOL
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/14CCE0CC-5B26-441D-8164-0220FE3734A5-3872-000005946EA0C286_zps9ccaae91.jpg)
It looks to me like there may be something in the valve body. I need to get a long pick and see what it is.
QUESTION, Is there anything to harm inside the valve? I mean to hose it out with brake cleaner or Gun scrubber? I wanna be sure things are squeaky clean... If no, what do you recommend?
CW
-
I wouldn't use brake cleaner since it has a tendancy to eat O-rings...
-
I'd stay away from the brake cleaner it can get on the tube and ruin the finish. I use...hate to speak these words...WD40. There I said it, about the only thing I will use it for is cleaning. It's a good degreaser then blow it out with air. Works on yellow jackets too. Marvel mystery oil works as a good cleaner let it soak for awhile mop it up blow it out.
-
I'd stay away from the brake cleaner it can get on the tube and ruin the finish. I use...hate to speak these words...WD40. There I said it, about the only thing I will use it for is cleaning. It's a good degreaser then blow it out with air. Works on yellow jackets too. Marvel mystery oil works as a good cleaner let it soak for awhile mop it up blow it out.
Ooh MMO, for some reason I just never think of that! Even tho I have and use it allot!!! Years back we mixed with with Kroil mad red juice or some such was its name... Worked real good for rusted bolts and the like.
Ok I'll soak it a while and see what I can blow out.
It almost looks like there is more in the valve!?! I need to look at some exploded views to be sure. If what I see in there are prints I'm not so sure how to replace them...
CW
-
I believe that is the soldered in part of the valve just get her clean and go! I do use a little silicon grease (cheap plumbers grease from casa dedepot) to lube everything up on install. And make sure you use Tim's secret sauce not pelgun oil. And after a few shots (50) reclean the barrel. Notice the two spring setup that's what makes them easier to pump than the new one with a cartridge valve although the two spring mod will help with that.
-
When I ploish the intake seat I have a cratex stick in the end of a turning jig so I can reach inside the tube to polish while the turning jig acts as a pilot to keep the alignment proper. Once the seat looks good I put a piece of Cleaning patch over the cratex and use it to clean out the abrasive debris and any residual goo. Once the seat is polished and the valve clean it is ready to pack the new parts.
On an 80's vintage (round top breech)Rockers I would more often use the exhaust valve that comes out of the gun rather than the new parts as that is going to be a far superior part to what the factory has turned out in the last few decades. The saying they don't last like they used to would be fair. The one that was in there is a 40 year part. The replacement barely 5 so it is always prudent to leave what is in there in there as it will out last what they make now several times over even tho it is already 20+ YO. The factory made a very good part in the 80's. Probably the best they ever did if you don't count the single port Hold downs. Those intakes and exhausts were the factories best of the best(design and materials) and are only now rivalled by the Steroid parts for toughness.
I great deal of sludge biulds up in the pump tubes of these olod guns and you need to make sure you have all the goo cleaned out of the pump tube before proceeding to the valve packing. Intakes available run the whole gammut. If the Intake seal is the Factory unit be aware that the final crimping of that part is neccessary to see any measure of success with the factory Intake. It is now discontunued. They can be made fairly reliable in most cases if they are final formed as the early Benjy Intakes were made. For the last 5-6 years of Intake Seal Production (part #10010) the part was notr finsished by Crosman and only those that were formed so the edges of the intake cup were turned inboard to capture the seal and keep it from poping out of the cup (when air gets behind the seal and blows it out).
The Mac1 Intake completely eliminates that posibility with a Teflon(PTFE) solid one piece intake(check) valve. That is the go to part for all rebuilds now since it was the only one in production when the factory stopped making the 10010. I've been using it in my standard repairs for years now and it is the Only thing we've used in Steroids for over a decade.
TimmyMac1
-
Thanks guys!
Thank you ESP Tim! I was hoping you would post up!
I read previous posts of yours warning your parts are better and why! I did order mine from you!
Roger on cleanly ness!! Will make it clean before any new parts go in!
Hopefully I will have this back to shooting soon after your parts arrive as ill be ready for them to go in very soon. Doing this shows me just what's into your rebuilds. I'm glad I'm doing it if only for that! I will shoot the steroid your building for me now a bit before I decide if you get this one or the Benji 342 I just picked up. My single reservation is my wife's lack of strength. She likes to shoot too and I'm hoping she is able to pump the stockers. Time will tell but I'm doubtful as even my flat top 1377 is too much for her past 3-4 strokes. She may be stuck with a CO2 or PCP gun. (GOTTA keep momma happy ya know!!)
Anyhow, tonight ill pull the pump arm and piston and clean everything spice and span!
I really very much appreciate all comments and pointers!!
CW
-
CW, my steroid Dan is very easy to pump to 3 or 4 pumps and it would be even easier with the Billet extension...
At my current zero 10yds/4pumps the gun is dead on and smacks with authority...
-
CW, my steroid Dan is very easy to pump to 3 or 4 pumps and it would be even easier with the Billet extension...
At my current zero 10yds/4pumps the gun is dead on and smacks with authority...
That's good to hear! Hopefully she will be able to do it!
I was just thinking about that front spring in the valve. It has no spring remaining!! I do not know but hope a new on will be in the re build kit!! If no, I will need advice on a replacement.
CW
-
OK, I got home and Timmy had the rebuild parts in my mail box! THANK YOU TIM!!
Now once I degrease and clean I'll be ready for assembly... BUT...
The small spring in my valve looks TOAST!!! Its got little to NO spring left. Its even flattened looking. The kit dosen't include springs... what will be an acceptable replacement?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/090461d9-f565-41a1-a707-e9b9786ec1a8_zps5309f677.jpg)
ALSO, I had TWO brass washers between the springs... What I read says there should be ONE and sometimes NONE. I am going to assume I install ONE...
Also The kit has the Derlin/Nylon check valve. (Very first part to go in valve and last to come out) I seen to recall Tim saying something about needing to ''cut'' the seat to use this???
I am REAL close to shooting my baby now!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
THANKS GUYS!!
CW
-
CW, hopefully someone with more specific knowledge of these old valves will reply. As for the two washers in yours, here is one that had three (almost to the bottom of the page).
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/search/label/sheridan?updated-max=2013-01-20T20:16:00-08:00&max-results=20&start=4&by-date=false (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/search/label/sheridan?updated-max=2013-01-20T20:16:00-08:00&max-results=20&start=4&by-date=false)
When I did the two spring mod on the newer, removable valve for my '97 I went to the hardware store for a spring. I found one the same OD as the newer spring, but .032 coil dia., I clipped it so that when installed in the valve behind the intake, it compressed about 1/4" when the washer behind it was pushed down to it's seat. It has worked out well, having about the same pump tension as the '68 with soldered valve I have.
-
I had a complete outline of the days events typed and ready to post... Then my ''lovely'' >:( >:( keyboard highlighted the entire page and when I hit period...at the end. It was gone and I only had the period. :-X :-X :-X :-X :-X Sorry, I am not typing it up again...
Basically, I had difficulties from the get go. :( I did get it back together and I have shot about 20-30 times. ;D It leaks after I open the pump to make another stroke. Sometimes it leaks all the air. Other times it leaks just a tiny bit and after 6 pumps it dosen't leak at all. Then I pumped it up 8 times and let it sit for about 4 hours. I just shot it, twice. It looks to be holding air pretty well. ??? ???
I tired my crony, but was not enough light indoors. I will set it up outside tomorrow and see what I get for numbers before and after sitting for a while. If I pump quickly it gets hard to pump so I know I am able to pressurize the valve and it dose hold some of the air.
Long story short, I suggest you don't attempt unless you have the the time, GOOD light and plenty of Patience. ;D :o :o
At least I can shoot and enjoy it. I will wait till I get my Steroid back from Tim @ Mac1 and probably just send this one off to him as well. Let the Master do his magic and I'll get to live a bit longer with less stress. ;) ;) ;)
OOH yea, One more thing. I really HATE when this happens... extra parts! :o :o :o This one came in the repair kit, I did not take anything like this out of the gun and I have NO IDEA where it may go. It looks to be made if steel, approximately 1/4'' in diameter and just a bit taller than that. I wish Tim had included some instructions with the kit...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/01F31BA7-A910-4D94-9442-8F38F70E16FA-5827-00000809AEB77060_zpsddfa1a31.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/910107E5-2037-41D5-88E3-DBC302F40A72-5827-00000809A7B14EE3_zps91ff6ef6.jpg)
OK Well, its back together.... Its not right, it does work, but it still leaks at the check valve when pumped... :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(
I have new found respect for people repairing these guns! :-[ :-[ You need GOOD light and proper tools and PATIENCE! I'm lacking in that last regard. :-[ :-[ :-[
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/CCCE4D74-289E-42BE-AF4C-33B4E4F769CE-5827-0000080997F3887C_zpsc621511c.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/1967%20Sheridan/EDACC9AF-1C3B-4704-8665-A551A17A5A28-5827-000008099F8E8E29_zpse1b0f074.jpg)
Good things.. Well it shot 1'' to the right of aiming point and drilled a 30cal hole in my 25' basement range. It was nice to shoot the old girl again. ;) :-* :-*
CW
-
Nice job! Too bad aboout the leaking valve. Perhaps defective?
-
CW keep pumping and shooting it may be that the valve needs to break in some to seat properly
-
That is a keyed rivet. It connects the lever arm to the lever link and will often have wear in it. If your rivet is round on both sides this is not the correct part for your gun. If it has a rectangular shape on one side about 1/4" long and the other side is 1/4" round, the keyed rivet is for that.
TimmyMac1
-
CW - did pumping and shooting help?
I was following this thread because I have a 1975 Sheridan blue streak that shoots but with 8 pumps it can only manage 7.3fpe with JSB 13.73gr pellet. What a wimp! I was thinking about ordering a repair kit but it sure sounds like I should send it in for repair.
-
Carlos, sending mine in was the second best money I ever spent on an Air Gun, the first was buying it to begin with...
-
I wish I had sent it in too.
Don't get me wrong, it was learning experience and one that proves the worth of the dollars paid to a rebuilder.
Look at it this way, I ordered the parts, posted a hundred questions, sought the special tools. Spent the time and aggravation attempting the re build. I STILL have a rifle that is not correct. AND I will likley send it in anyhow!!
I have seen no improvement with the leak. I still can hear is hiss out and I have bad hearing. I have pumped it 8 and opened the pump as if going for nine. And if I stop with the pump open, I can hear air leak out. If I close pump and shoot, its like a kids BB gun. MAYBE 2/250 fps. If I only allow the quick gulp of air it seems to shoot strong. Side by side with the Benji the benji has more poop.
CW
-
CW,
Just wanted to let you know that I decided to try the "kit" for my Sheridan - but when I went looking for it at Mac1 website, I couldn't find the kit anymore--- sooo -- I went ahead and ordered one from PA. I did look at the reviews and there were more good ones than bad ones so I got the kit in yesterdays mail and today I have a working Sheridan. The installation process was explained pretty well in the enclosed instruction sheet. I also really liked the combination tool that came with the kit. I had already knocked off the rear sight because I have the Williams Peep sight to install. Now I have to read up on what is required to drill and tap the mounting holes. I am happy that I am on the way to a working Sheridan Blue Streak but like I said I still have to install the Peep sight.
-
Good news! Best of luck with the re build!!
If you have drilled and tapped before its pretty easy. I did mine no issues at all. Two things, be sure the base is properly positioned and use it as a template for the holes.
The kit on mac1 was right there altho I missed it myself a couple times too. I did contact tbem for some help and was properly directed. ;) I wanted his kit as its class to be the best.
CW
CW
-
I should have updated here... on or about end of January 2015, this Dan was sent to uncle Timmy for a steroid rebuild! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I'm expecting a email in the next couple weeks!!! Getting excited as this one got a few extras over the last one. :) 8) 8) 8)
CW
-
I should have updated here... on or about end of January 2015, this Dan was sent to uncle Timmy for a steroid rebuild! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I'm expecting a email in the next couple weeks!!! Getting excited as this one got a few extras over the last one. :) 8) 8) 8)
CW
Any thing like this?
|
|
\/
-
I should have updated here... on or about end of January 2015, this Dan was sent to uncle Timmy for a steroid rebuild! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
I'm expecting a email in the next couple weeks!!! Getting excited as this one got a few extras over the last one. :) 8) 8) 8)
CW
Hi Brian,
Funny you posted this, as I was about to ask if you had gotten yours back yet.
Mine followed yours by just a week or two to go see Tim.
So I guess they are sitting there side by side, keeping each other company, and swapping vintage hunting stories ;) ;D. It's nice for them to have each other to talk to, right ?
( I'm picturing 2 old guys in rocking chairs,... on the porch,... sipping some spiked lemonade,... and telling lies about the longest shots they've made on a Fuzzytail or YB ), haha.
I know he does the Steroids in groups, and I'm in no rush.
(We all know that steroid jobs are not for the impatient). haha.
I spoke with Dave(?) at the shop just 2 days ago just to say Hi, and see if there was any news on mine (and a couple others) I had sent along with the Racine.
I told Dan to not interrupt Tim from working, and that I didn't need to speak with him,.. I was just checking in.
Dan checked with Tim (who was very busy in the shop). When Dan came back to the phone he told me Tim was "getting ready to start working on some steroid jobs probably next week".
So we can be looking forward to a nice "Fresh Spring time Steroid" ;D
Mine is pretty much going for the "Full Monty" including scope mount.
-
LOL. YES, ABSOLUTELY RON!! 8) 8) 8) 8) NO rush here either, good things come to those who can wait. :)
Mine too, YES DD allot like yours ;)
CW
-
Oh-ohhhh !
I just thought of something.
Does having the 'roid job done at this time of year, mean they will come back to us a "Springers" :o :-\ ;) ;D ? ? ?
hahaha ! ! !
-
CW
Your going to like it. ;) the striker is louder than the report. ;) ;D ;) ;D
-
CW
Your going to like it. ;) the striker is louder than the report. ;) ;D ;) ;D
HAHA Yea, springers!! LOL
Thats what Im a hoping!! Plop goes the pellet. LOL
CW
-
I also sent a 65 Dan to Tim around the end of January. It's getting steroided and a LDC added. I plan to put a pistol scope on it ( old eyes). ;D
-
HH,
I have a mount here waiting to mount on this one too!!
Uncle Timmy called me yesterday!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
My '81 is on its way to me!!!
oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!!!
CW
-
Would like to see pictures when you get the 81 home.
-
HH,
I have a mount here waiting to mount on this one too!!
Uncle Timmy called me yesterday!! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
My '81 is on its way to me!!!
oh boy, oh boy, oh boy!!!
CW
Yay! this is good news !
When mine gets back I will still need to refinish the stock.
-
Ron you live close enough so you don't have to wait for it to come in the mail. 8) ;) ;D
-
Ron you live close enough so you don't have to wait for it to come in the mail. 8) ;) ;D
Yep, that's true.
When he calls me, he will be saying "It's ready, come pick it up " ;D
-
Would like to see pictures when you get the 81 home.
I think I can do that!! ;)
CW
-
Would like to see pictures when you get the 81 home.
I think I can do that!! ;)
CW
It arrived today!!!
I got the wood back on, mounted the scope mount and carefully squared it to the action.... Mounted the rings on the 3X choosing it over the AO 4X that's much larger.
Sited it in the basement with three shots!!
Moved to the back yard... difficult with the chickens as this time of year they are very social and are all over you when your in the yard. But I was able to get clear lanes of fire and fine tuned the impacts at 10-15 & 25 yards.
I am VERY happy with the power!! Although I did not crony yet. (I JUST got it tonight!! ) 10 pumps and the pellets disappeared into a 4x4., 8 pumps same...6 yup same, 5 YUP same... I dug out a probe and at 5 pumps they are almost a full 3/4" into the pressure treated 4x4. NOT AT ALL rotten!! I guess 4-5 pumps is all ill need for Rats! and at 10 its pretty quiet, at 5 its VERY quiet! Pellet impact VERY noticeable!!
I need to see If I can install these on other Dans!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Sheridan/DB4E5A5E-6534-45EB-9E18-5295602FE2EB_zps4irehesi.jpg)
Got the "Chicken" approval too!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Sheridan/77226A19-9ADE-4989-A8E8-EB6EC8A9E2C5_zps8judqwou.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v465/CWLONGSHOT/Temp%20stuff/sporting%20pics/Air%20Rilfes/Sheridan/038E99E1-F863-48B7-99F5-ED6DA0E8E91D_zpsut7bztcl.jpg)
CW
-
WOW!! CW the finish looks great. Did you get some 13.73 gr pellets that Tim recommends for steroided Dans?
-
WOW!! CW the finish looks great. Did you get some 13.73 gr pellets that Tim recommends for steroided Dans?
I am glad Tim did not refinish this one. It has a nice Patina and its as I like it! ;D
As for pellets, with six different 20's, I have a small store of pellets. :) I can almost say if its offered in .20.... I have it. :)
I have had excellent results with the FFT pellets but am using these Beemans cause they are copper coated. With my birds I am afraid to send all lead pellets into the penns and ground.
I have a bunch of tins of Eunjin pellets in heavy weight that I like for hunting where power is needed.
Hoping to get up to my NY property later this year for a airgun shooting weekend.
CW
-
That's right I forgot about your chickens ::) The 13.73gr I have JSB matched diabolo exact.