GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Show us your Custom Airgun Parts (TRICKS-N-TIPS) => Topic started by: nutshot on May 06, 2013, 01:47:08 PM
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Playing with some new anodising colours so I made these . Think the .50 cal style one is my favorite but maybe a bit ott for an airgun :o
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/IMG_0612_zps9527838c.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/IMG_0612_zps9527838c.jpg.html)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/IMG_0613_zpsdc522df4.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/IMG_0613_zpsdc522df4.jpg.html)
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They look nice! How much?
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These look awesome!
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Cheers Fellas . Its fun colouring things in :) And sorry not for sale Carlos ;)
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Nicely done.
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Did you make them yourself? Or can they be found online?
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Good looking parts. The orange is nice and unusual, I generally like purple but not on guns, blue in nice too and of course you can't go wrong with back. I vote orange :)
Tom
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Good looking work. Is the anodizing done at home? If so lets see your setup. I'm working on a project I need to have anodized and was thinking about doing it myself.
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to bad these aren't for sale
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I made the brakes as well as home anodise them . Seams a bit boring just dyeing bits of scrap and things like this don`t take too long to make .
My home anodising set up consists of a plastic tub with a 15% sulfuric / distilled water mix . A sheet of lead , a dc power supply, aluminium wire, dye and a boiling pot to seal after dying.
I recently bought a 10 amp 30 volt adjustable supply but Ive had good results just using a car battery charger for the power before that.
Its all quite easy and cheap to do just takes a bit of practice and keeping the part clean is essential. I`ll take a few pictures of the set up after work today.
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That blue and red is killer.
An air gun with a green and brown theme would look cool as well..... as there would be no need to paint it or cover it up :D
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Home Depot orange, I could get the high five at work with it.
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Those are works of art! Like the shape and form of the red muzzle.
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Brilliant colors. Are you using regular anodizing dyes or one of the alternatives like Rit?
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Wow!!! You need to start selling them bro!!! Nice work!!!
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Nutshot
have you taken picts yet ?
I`ll take a few pictures of the set up after work today.
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Very nice, reminded me of these:
(http://kawvalleyprecision.com/images/albums/NewAlbum_09ff4/tn_480_17f5cc863294139a880fa906321a82b2.jpg.png)
(http://kawvalleyprecision.com/images/albums/NewAlbum_09ff4/tn_480_cb8f27b3675da10a3a29c1c435e2a573.jpg.png)
http://kawvalleyprecision.com/kawvalleyprecisioncomp.php (http://kawvalleyprecision.com/kawvalleyprecisioncomp.php)
These are steel with Cerakote finish.
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Nutshot
have you taken picts yet ?
Sorry Fella , Been a bit busy and forgot :(
Here you go though :)
My tank
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/4c74a113-5948-4606-ad8f-02bd5225c595_zps4d9aa9db.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/4c74a113-5948-4606-ad8f-02bd5225c595_zps4d9aa9db.jpg.html)
My 2 power packs . Bottom one is a DC 10 amp 30 volt constant currant or constant voltage pack that I use for the aluminium , top one is a DC 120v 1 amp that I use for titanium . Aluminium you want amps ,titanium you need volts .
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/c7285a20-137c-4e03-91c6-d85a904d38a9_zps0ec6f412.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/c7285a20-137c-4e03-91c6-d85a904d38a9_zps0ec6f412.jpg.html)
And if you want to have a go for less $ I use to use a car battery charger and a car battery linked inline as my power source . The battery stops more modern chargers shutting down .
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/30125119-1f5b-4fd6-b865-6cf1bea97fec_zps97b98f13.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/30125119-1f5b-4fd6-b865-6cf1bea97fec_zps97b98f13.jpg.html)
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Hay Nutshot,
What is the process for the anodizing and coloring along with sealing. I have a project at work and thought the coloring was pretty neat that you did.
All I did was anodize using the 15% H2so4. I think it would be cool to color as well but lack the knowledge to color and seal. How did you do the color and seal process after anodizing ?
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Hay Nutshot,
What is the process for the anodizing and coloring along with sealing. I have a project at work and thought the coloring was pretty neat that you did.
All I did was anodize using the 15% H2so4. I think it would be cool to color as well but lack the knowledge to color and seal. How did you do the color and seal process after anodizing ?
Hi Shorty,
Colouring is easy if you have anodised the part right to start with :)
You can buy anodising / anodizing dye off ebay quite cheap or caswell do a lot of colours . Some dyes are easier to use than others , black , red purple , blue etc are very easy , colours like gold have metal in them so its a bit more temperature critical to get the right pore size . over here its usually quite chilly so I don`t have much issue with tank temps . for the easy colours 60-70f is fine , gold wants to be a bit warmer for bigger pores, 75f ish seams to work well for colours that fail at cooler temps. Too warm and the pores are too big and the dye washes out on sealing.
Anodise the part , rinse with distilled water , plunge in the dye anywhere from 1 minute to 20 minutes depending on how dark you want the part. Remove from dye and simmer for 5-10 mins in distilled water
Cleanliness is everything so degrease well and only use distilled water both in your dye and for rinsing and sealing . You can buy sealing solutions but I have had no problems sealing in simmering distilled water .
6*** allys take colours well , other grades like 2*** and 7*** are apparently a bit more awkward.
Heres a tactical brake I made the other day . Shot blasted for a matt finish . Can`t quite seam to get my blasting right for bright colours. Think I need something like soda rather than sand for a blasted finish as my colours seam to come out patchy with the pores growing at various angles . Doesnt matter with black as its so dark it hides the patches :)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/cf6bbe3a-133b-4c02-92c4-9d9d88b4f6df_zps227d1d4d.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/cf6bbe3a-133b-4c02-92c4-9d9d88b4f6df_zps227d1d4d.jpg.html)
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I like that orange, too. Thanks for posting that how to info.
Mike
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You make it look so easy. That would be fun to do. Reminds me of developing film back in the days.
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The orange is actually copper Mike . Looks pretty realistic (copper like) in real life . Hard to get a good photo though . I have orange too and that is much brighter. If you have a go at anodising and have any questions just ask. I`m not a professional but I do get good results and can steer you down the right path :)
It really is that easy Ivan . I`m no rocket scientist. I just had a bit of instruction from a friend / fellow diy`er and read up more on the net . If I can do it any one can so don`t be afraid to have a go ;) If you make your own parts I think its the finishing touch that makes it look shop bought.
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I appreciate it. I completely agree that it's an important finishing touch. There is a place over here that does it, but from what I hear......they are never in any sort of hurry, and it could take months for a few parts. I don't want to wait that long..... ;D.
This is very interesting to me.
Was there a particular website that you feel was the most helpful to get you going?
BTW, what machinery are you making those nice parts with?
Mike
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Mike, you can start here......http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/anodizing-products/anodizing-kits.html (http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/anodizing-products/anodizing-kits.html)
Tom
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I ran across that, Tom......thanks.
Been browsing around for the last 20 minutes or so. Looks doable for me.
I'm gonna give this a try this week.
I have lots of "scraps"........lol.
Cool
Mike
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Mike, you can start here......http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/anodizing-products/anodizing-kits.html (http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/anodizing-products/anodizing-kits.html)
Tom
I wouldn`t waist your money.
Plastic tub or bucket £3.00-5 . battery acid , about £20 for a set up like mine , lead sheet , free if you know any roofers or £10 ish max , distilled water £12.00 for 25 liters . Power supply can be a car battery and charger which most people have so free or buy a decent power pack (ebay) £25-200 depending if its new or second hand and how patient you are , Dye £10-15 per colour . Paint kettles to store your dye £4.00 each . Aluminium welding wire or titanium wire for hanging your parts £3.00-5.00 ish for a spool . Degreaser all you need is washing up liquid . Some caustic soda / drain cleaner about £1.00 for de anodising or removing oxidization.
You can build a usable set up for about £60-70 so probably under $100 in your money if you have a battery charger and old car battery.
My whole new set up with a decent power supply 10 dye colours my custom built acid tank (not my plant tray) , a fish tank air pump and assorted piping has probably cost me £350-400 / $550-600 and I have a lot of items not included in the caswell set up and the parts I havn`t got you really don`t need.
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This is very interesting to me.
Was there a particular website that you feel was the most helpful to get you going?
BTW, what machinery are you making those nice parts with?
Mike
I find youtube pretty good , there is some good info and helpful members on caswell forum if you get a problem you can`t work out and then theres just scouring google and reading through all the dross. I would say youtube has been the most help :) Some people like to make anodising out to be a mystery art and don`t like to share as its all about $`s . Don`t listen to them its easy for a diy`er to do :)
I have an bridgeport mill and just upgraded my 1950`s colchester student to a 1980`s colchester master lathe .
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/IMG_0835_zps9e0379b8.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/IMG_0835_zps9e0379b8.jpg.html)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/IMG_0694_zps8e879387.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/IMG_0694_zps8e879387.jpg.html)
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Aah.....very nice. I need to buy a rotary table. That would sure open up a lot more options.
I intend to go the cheap route for starters. I have a battery and charger that I can start with.
I see that many have used the Rit dyes. Have you tried them?
I suspect the Caswell stuff is better suited, but I'm only looking at black and clear for my current project. Just wondering if I could get away with the Rit for now.
Thanks again,
Mike
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Fantastic work (fun). Wish I could look over your shoulder during the creation of these.
:)
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Hay Nutshot,
What is the process for the anodizing and coloring along with sealing. I have a project at work and thought the coloring was pretty neat that you did.
All I did was anodize using the 15% H2so4. I think it would be cool to color as well but lack the knowledge to color and seal. How did you do the color and seal process after anodizing ?
Hi Shorty,
Colouring is easy if you have anodised the part right to start with :)
You can buy anodising / anodizing dye off ebay quite cheap or caswell do a lot of colours . Some dyes are easier to use than others , black , red purple , blue etc are very easy , colours like gold have metal in them so its a bit more temperature critical to get the right pore size . over here its usually quite chilly so I don`t have much issue with tank temps . for the easy colours 60-70f is fine , gold wants to be a bit warmer for bigger pores, 75f ish seams to work well for colours that fail at cooler temps. Too warm and the pores are too big and the dye washes out on sealing.
Anodise the part , rinse with distilled water , plunge in the dye anywhere from 1 minute to 20 minutes depending on how dark you want the part. Remove from dye and simmer for 5-10 mins in distilled water
Cleanliness is everything so degrease well and only use distilled water both in your dye and for rinsing and sealing . You can buy sealing solutions but I have had no problems sealing in simmering distilled water .
6*** allys take colours well , other grades like 2*** and 7*** are apparently a bit more awkward.
Heres a tactical brake I made the other day . Shot blasted for a matt finish . Can`t quite seam to get my blasting right for bright colours. Think I need something like soda rather than sand for a blasted finish as my colours seam to come out patchy with the pores growing at various angles . Doesnt matter with black as its so dark it hides the patches :)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/cf6bbe3a-133b-4c02-92c4-9d9d88b4f6df_zps227d1d4d.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/cf6bbe3a-133b-4c02-92c4-9d9d88b4f6df_zps227d1d4d.jpg.html)
Now that's one mean looking brake. Very cool !!
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Aah.....very nice. I need to buy a rotary table. That would sure open up a lot more options.
I intend to go the cheap route for starters. I have a battery and charger that I can start with.
I see that many have used the Rit dyes. Have you tried them?
I suspect the Caswell stuff is better suited, but I'm only looking at black and clear for my current project. Just wondering if I could get away with the Rit for now.
Thanks again,
Mike
Ive never had Rit dyes . there are several pigment dyes that work , dylon clothes dye Ive used in black and a friend says blue works well but red was rubbish . It must be dylon multipurpose dye as none of their other dyes work . http://www.thedyeshop.co.uk/acatalog/MULTI-PURPOSE_DYE_4.5g.html (http://www.thedyeshop.co.uk/acatalog/MULTI-PURPOSE_DYE_4.5g.html) .
Heard some have used quink fountain pen ink . Tried tattoo ink but that was useless . Proper dye isn`t that expensive so its prbably not worth trying anything other unless you know for sure it will work.
This seller is good but he doesn`t seam to have much in stock at the moment http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Anodizing-Dyes-2-gal-/251188199995?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3a7bfbc23b (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Quality-Anodizing-Dyes-2-gal-/251188199995?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item3a7bfbc23b) .
To get a really deep black I put my dye into an old electric kettle . put the part in with the dye cold , let it sit a while then bring the kettle to the boil . You loose no colour that way when you seal it so everything comes out jet black :) be careful though as it boils it froths like a volcano . Ive dyed the entire kitchen black twice and got much trouble off my mrs so its best done out side ;D
Just though if you use a battery charger and battery I found unless the part was quite small best to leave anodising for about 1 1/2 hours . The brakes I would do for 1 1/2" hour and Ive done tubes upto 8" long and 38mm od for the same time and they all came out well . Try and cheat and do it faster it sometimes comes out poor and you waste more time stripping and re doing it ;)
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Now that's one mean looking brake. Very cool !!
Cheers Fella :)
Heres a couple more angles .
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/e7fb8414-d33c-4401-8436-305162068b2d_zps29d4cac9.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/e7fb8414-d33c-4401-8436-305162068b2d_zps29d4cac9.jpg.html)
(http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s112/nutshot-uk/54c7cf1f-1ef5-40b0-bf20-983940bec1c3_zpsf9ae9c1f.jpg) (http://s150.photobucket.com/user/nutshot-uk/media/54c7cf1f-1ef5-40b0-bf20-983940bec1c3_zpsf9ae9c1f.jpg.html)
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Fantastic work (fun). Wish I could look over your shoulder during the creation of these.
:)
If you visit rainy England you are quite welcome to visit :) I make a nice cup of tea 8)