GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Benjamin Airguns => Topic started by: longdx on April 01, 2013, 01:55:12 AM
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Like the title states, I recently ordered a 392. Any tips for a first time 392 owner. Thanks in advance
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Do a search in the Crosman/ Benjamin gate and you'll find everything you will ever need to know
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You need to remember that the 392 has a bit of power. It will shoot plywood backstops to pieces pretty quickly and can put holes through fence boards with one shot.
Follow the maintenance instructions in the owners manual for lubrication points and don't forget to keep it lubricated as recommended.
There are various tips for cleaning the paint from the bore listed in other threads. The amount of overspray seems to vary quite a bit from rifle to rifle. Use a flashlight or bore light to make sure you get all of the paint out of there. The first 392 I got had paint pretty deep in there and I had to go in a couple of times to get it all out. The second 392 I got wasn't as bad and was much easier to clean. I used acetone to remove the overspary others here have recommended paint remover. What ever product you use take precautions not to let it get into the "works" of the gun, it will booger up the seals.
Jeff
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for lubing get Mac1 secret sauce. ;) and hope you don't get one with a aluminum valve. if it has a aluminum valve :( if you don't lube it it will corrode and will not hold air.
just make sure you lube often.
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Remember to always store it with one pump of air because it will help keep the compression chamber sealed and the dust out. The Williams peep sight is a great upgrade for the rifle. They seem to not be very fussy about pellets like most break barrels. I have a 397 (have a 392 but am sending it back, long story) they are great guns and hard to go wrong by or have too much trouble with.
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The best tip for anyone with any year Benjamin or Sheridan is to take the rear sight off and install the Williams or Stretch the iron sight base so it is not so tight as to compromise the solder joint. The proper tension is when you can pop it onto the wedges on one side by hand and only need to tap it with a hammer or tool handle to get the opposite side on.
On a lot of guns the sight is so tight the solder joint will get popped loose in about two decades of force applied. The design is a poor one but very good for business if you solder the guns back together like me.
If you're not using the factory rear get it off of there so it doesn't cause you grief down the road.
Lubrication is a very important thing to get in the habit of doing and to understand the design as a direct loss system is paramount in importance.
The System is meant for the guide end of the piston assembly(which is porous like a sponge) to stay saturated as it is meant to be a reserviouir of oil so the guide lays a film of lubricant down every pump. The piston will force a small amount of lube into the valve each pump so the atmospheric debris, moisture and contaminants can be blown out with the air charge each shot.
The Systems clean themselves constantly as the junk is kept emulsified in the lubricant and is carried away with each shot.
If the valve doesn't have any lube goui ng through it the contaminants and debris accumulate to create congestive failure and a corrosive mess. Call it AG buggers but if you do not allow the system to keep itself flushed out with a good lube like secret sauce the valve will turn into a receptacle for all the junk and will be full of a horrid goo only a solvent tank can deal with.
This system was meant to go for decades but it only takes about 3-4 months of use with no oil to shut the system down on an aluminum valve and maybe 4 times that on a Brass valve.
Lube it or lose it. Steroids can go 75,000-100,000 rounds per rebuild if treated right with secret sauce regularly. Keeping the guide end of the Piston saturated is the key to longievity as we see no accumulation of junk in the valve when the consumer takes this recomendation to heart.
I have a standard fee for the OIL starved valve rebuilds which are pointless to have to do when we give you the lubricant with every gun or Steroid repair.
For anyone who got a Steroid a few years back the aluminum valve is going to fail. If you have one of those when we do the Rebuild we will throw the aluminum valve away and upgrade you to brass. The only way to determione if you have a brass or aluminum valve is to remove the butt stock and action fastener from the valve with the LEVER OPEN and look at the metal the action fastener is screwed into. If there are a few pumps in the gun the valve can be pumped out the back of the action as long as the trigger and hammer have been removed and the Bolt is closed.
ON standard gun sales from Mac1 (rare as they are) I change the front aluminum plug for brass, open the piston pivot at link to 11/64", install a third pin in the forearm to beef the lever arm and stretch the rear sight.
No factory guns are being produced with aluminum valves currently but it is conceivable that there are still some new old stock at some vendors with aluminum valves still. If you send your aluminum valve to Crosman they will swap it out for Brass for free.
TimmyMac1
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The best tip for anyone with any year Benjamin or Sheridan is to take the rear sight off and install the Williams or Stretch the iron sight base so it is not so tight as to compromise the solder joint. The proper tension is when you can pop it onto the wedges on one side by hand and only need to tap it with a hammer or tool handle to get the opposite side on.
On a lot of guns the sight is so tight the solder joint will get popped loose in about two decades of force applied. The design is a poor one but very good for business if you solder the guns back together like me.
If you're not using the factory rear get it off of there so it doesn't cause you grief down the road.
Lubrication is a very important thing to get in the habit of doing and to understand the design as a direct loss system is paramount in importance.
The System is meant for the guide end of the piston assembly(which is porous like a sponge) to stay saturated as it is meant to be a reserviouir of oil so the guide lays a film of lubricant down every pump. The piston will force a small amount of lube into the valve each pump so the atmospheric debris, moisture and contaminants can be blown out with the air charge each shot.
The Systems clean themselves constantly as the junk is kept emulsified in the lubricant and is carried away with each shot.
If the valve doesn't have any lube goui ng through it the contaminants and debris accumulate to create congestive failure and a corrosive mess. Call it AG buggers but if you do not allow the system to keep itself flushed out with a good lube like secret sauce the valve will turn into a receptacle for all the junk and will be full of a horrid goo only a solvent tank can deal with.
This system was meant to go for decades but it only takes about 3-4 months of use with no oil to shut the system down on an aluminum valve and maybe 4 times that on a Brass valve.
Lube it or lose it. Steroids can go 75,000-100,000 rounds per rebuild if treated right with secret sauce regularly. Keeping the guide end of the Piston saturated is the key to longievity as we see no accumulation of junk in the valve when the consumer takes this recomendation to heart.
I have a standard fee for the OIL starved valve rebuilds which are pointless to have to do when we give you the lubricant with every gun or Steroid repair.
For anyone who got a Steroid a few years back the aluminum valve is going to fail. If you have one of those when we do the Rebuild we will throw the aluminum valve away and upgrade you to brass. The only way to determione if you have a brass or aluminum valve is to remove the butt stock and action fastener from the valve with the LEVER OPEN and look at the metal the action fastener is screwed into. If there are a few pumps in the gun the valve can be pumped out the back of the action as long as the trigger and hammer have been removed and the Bolt is closed.
ON standard gun sales from Mac1 (rare as they are) I change the front aluminum plug for brass, open the piston pivot at link to 11/64", install a third pin in the forearm to beef the lever arm and stretch the rear sight.
No factory guns are being produced with aluminum valves currently but it is conceivable that there are still some new old stock at some vendors with aluminum valves still. If you send your aluminum valve to Crosman they will swap it out for Brass for free.
TimmyMac1
Thanks to all for the help. Timmy Mac1 thanks for the detailed response. I will be ordering some special sauce soon (say that quickly LOL)