GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: fenixt on March 28, 2013, 10:48:12 PM
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Just got my Doomsday Kit today. I bought it because it's the only way to get this carbine, aside from the pellets, everything else went back in the box. So I won't touch on that. I also got my steel breech from Pyramyd Air yesterday, so after a few shots in some 1/2 plywood (which it didn't shoot through?), I went ahead and installed that. Installation was fairly straight forward. Next, I dug into the trigger (and yes, I did lose the spring and ball for a minute) to polish it up and put a 22lr shell in the spring. What the 22 shell does in the spring? I don't know, but other people do it so I had to. I might look for a lighter spring next time I'm out at the hardware store, but it's not something I'd make a special trip for. Because of how small the carbine is, and how lightweight it is, I wanted a small and light scope to match. So I picked up the smallest scope I could find at Walmart. Which happened to be a 4x15 Crosman for 7 or 8 bucks.
After that, I noticed the barrel band had mondo play in it. I could move it on the barrel, and depending on which way I moved it, the barrel would move up or down slightly. Even if I straightened the barrel band, it would move again after I pumped the arm, because the forearm would hit the bottom of the band. Very disappointing. I took the pump pivot pin out and shimmed the barrel band inside the tube. It is a lot better, but the only proper fix I could find is a steel barrel band that costs ~$50. Half what the kit costs. I'm going to give it a month and see how I feel about it, and see if it's worth replacing. I also put a piece of of sticky velcro (the fuzzy piece) underneath the pump arm to stop the slapping.
After a barrel cleaning, and full lube, I took it to the garage to get a rough zero on the scope. In less than 10 shots, I had the scope zeroed dead center @10 yards. I put up a new target and took my first shot. Dead center in the bull right where I had the crosshair. Second shot slightly up and left, but halfway into the first shot. Third, fourth, and fifth were stacked in the same hole as the first.
Another thing, shooting and pumping it off and on for half the day, and the web of skin between my thumb and pointing finger is rubbed raw. The pin that holds the stock on rubbed me out. I don't even know any way of getting around that except to pay more attention to it.
Even with the loose barrel band, having to spend an extra $40 to mount a scope, the pin rubbing me raw, and the low(ish) power, I predict me bringing this to the field more than my full-size rifles. The (spot on) accuracy, small size, light weight and ability to break it down and put it in a bag more than make up for it's shortcomings.
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff468/thunt5/IMG_0865.jpg)
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff468/thunt5/IMG_0868.jpg)
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff468/thunt5/IMG_0867.jpg)
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff468/thunt5/IMG_0866.jpg)
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Nice title,lol. And a good write up on your first impression. You can shim the barrel band with some cut up soda can. It will stop the wiggle for a lot cheaper than a new metal barrel band. Ditch the bent "u" washer behind the trigger and go to the hardware store and get some thin washers to replace it and also put one behind the sear. I did this and it stopped all the side to side wiggle. If you are looking for some added power, I'd suggest going to mellonair and get you a flat top piston and valve. Installation is pretty straight forward and shouldn't take you very long at all. Will run you about $32. After I installed mine and properly adjusted i ran a few unscientific penetration tests I can tell its shooting quite a bit harder than before. I try to hold mine a little lower on the rear of the handle so I don't rub my "web" raw, I had noticed the same thing after about 30 minutes of shooting. I'm thinking of trying to cover it with something but haven't figured that out yet..lol. Another option is drill out the little crosman signs in the side of the stock and screw it onto the pistol frame,but then you lose the quickness of breaking it down. You can get a softer spring and spring guide off of eBay for about $9. I opted to go that route instead of the 22 shell and hunting around at the hardware store for a softer spring. It made the trigger pull extremely light and a lot smoother. I fell in love with mine very quick, actually kinda like it more than my trail. Now I have a 2400kt that just came in the mail the other day that I haven't got to shoot yet. If its anything like the 2289, I think I'm gonna have two favorite guns. Sorry about the book I just wrote..
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Nice writeup, fenixt.
About the stock retaining pin, while I had mine torn down I went ahead and put a radius on it and buffed it on the polishing wheel. It's now completely comfortable to grip there while pumping.
And yeah, the play in the barrel band is a joke. I looked at it and asked myself why they even bothered to put such an inadequate part there. Then I realized it's not important when using the open sights since the front blade moves with the barrel. But when you go put a scope on it, it's a real problem. The slightest barrel movement translates to huge POI shift at 25 yards. So even though I'm using open sights at the moment, I went ahead and dealt with it so it's done when I get ready to install a steel breech and scope. Judging by the title of your thread, I assume you've seen my recent thread on the matter.
Congrats on the new shooter, it sounds like you are enjoying it.
And oh yeah, I'm stealing your Velcro idea! :D
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Thanks for the tips Baltim0re. I'll look into a lot of those. I did the barrel band shimming earlier with soda can (one of the first things I did). It is a lot tighter, but still doesn't seem solid to me. I used 3 strips of can, wrapped over top of band, going down to the open end on bottom, and drilled holes through the shims. I'm still eying one of those aluminum barrel bands from hpasports. Don't know though, it's pretty accurate as it is. I agree, I'm thinking I'll like this one more than the Trail, at least for a day to day thing.
nervoustrigger, I thought about using a strip of moleskin (stuff that sticks to feet) to quiet the pumping, but the velcro was what I had laying around and worked out pretty good. I just got through giving a rounded edge to the pin like you did. I didn't take mine apart, I took some 400 grit sandpaper and started buffing the sharp edge of it while rotating it every so often. It took off the sharp edge, not nice and rounded like yours, but pretty big improvement.
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Nice write-up Fenixt.
On my 1377 (same trigger) I brought the trigger spring to Ace Hardware to compare it with an easily found a lighter spring for 49 cents. A lot of guys cut a loop or two out of the original spring instead.
I bought some small felt stickys from Home Depot to put on the pump arm. It really quiets it down.
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to lighten the trigger spring, pull it out and compress it between your fingers or pliers until there is about 1/16" preload when inserted against the sear non cocked, no need to cut the spring, this makes for a very nice trigger pull. I literally did this up in the woods, you only need to take one grip off...
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I went to my local corner gas station to get a drink, and they have a (very)small hardware section with odds and ends. They had a small pack of springs, and I picked out two that I thought would work. Both are much softer than the original. Trigger is better and lighter now. I banged it around while cocked and seer wouldn't release. The springs were only 5 cents apiece.
(http://i1237.photobucket.com/albums/ff468/thunt5/IMG_0872.jpg)
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I was wondering if there be any difficulty in locating inexpensive pistol grips for this model should i not want the shoulder stock on it all the time ?
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is under $2 a side plus $4 shipping cheap enough? Go for the grips for the crosman 1701, someone might pop up with the part numbers and maybe a phone number for the Crosman service department where you can order them, you could order a longer barrel while you are there along with some more parts and stay at $4 shipping... you just have to be armed with part numbers before calling...
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Ace Hardware has a great selection of springs too. I usually just bring in my old spring to compare and they have some REALLY light ones the exact same side. Just add a .22 LR shell on top. I've done two 1377's and a 2240 and they are all reaaly light now now. Huge difference and the springs are really cheap.
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If you polish the flat part of the .22lr shell , it will give the shear a nice slick place to ride on! That is purpose of the shell in the spring!......tnpaw
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I was wondering if there be any difficulty in locating inexpensive pistol grips for this model should i not want the shoulder stock on it all the time ?
Funny I was thinking the same thing today, and this gets bumped. I like the grips on the 1701 like mentioned, but are they known to fit?
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Yes, they fit fine. The 1701P uses the same grip frame as the 13xx and 22xx pistols. Crosman part numbers are:
1700-031 Grip, Left
1700-032 Grip, Right
Dave
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Thanks Dave, I don't have those memorized yet, I need to make that order with Crosman one of these days...
On polishing the .22 shell at the end of the sear spring, that's not necessary, I've seen that recommendation before and just now took the shell out of my 2240 to make sure I was thinking right. The shell is there to straighten the sear spring, give it a flat surface to push on at the sear, I doubt it moves .001" forward or back in it's full travel and I doubt you would notice the effects of polishing anyway... I took the sear spring/shell out of my 2240 and there isn't a single mark on the end of the shell after a couple hundred shots fired with the setup. I'm not trying to argue or anything, and am definitely not trying to put anyone down, brass is a soft nice bearing surface and the shells are pretty smooth as is.
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Thanks Dave, I don't have those memorized yet, I need to make that order with Crosman one of these days...
On polishing the .22 shell at the end of the sear spring, that's not necessary, I've seen that recommendation before and just now took the shell out of my 2240 to make sure I was thinking right. The shell is there to straighten the sear spring, give it a flat surface to push on at the sear, I doubt it moves .001" forward or back in it's full travel and I doubt you would notice the effects of polishing anyway... I took the sear spring/shell out of my 2240 and there isn't a single mark on the end of the shell after a couple hundred shots fired with the setup. I'm not trying to argue or anything, and am definitely not trying to put anyone down, brass is a soft nice bearing surface and the shells are pretty smooth as is.
Especially if you lube it a bit. I use white lithium grease.