GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: nervoustrigger on March 16, 2013, 06:05:34 PM
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If you came looking for the PDF writeup of my mods, jump here (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=44342.msg422991#msg422991) and click the Dropbox link.
This thread starts with some out-of-the-box impressions and then progresses through the mods.
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You guys gave me a lot of good advise in my previous thread regarding the 1377 and 1322 models. I ultimately decided on the 2289 Doomsday Bugout kit and ordered it from Pyramyd Air on Thursday morning around 2am. PA had it on a truck lightning fast and it was delivered today. Fedex delivery on Saturday is the sweetness.
For those who may be unfamiliar with the Crosman models (like me), this gun is basically a model 1322 kitted with a shoulder stock, a more ergonomic forestock (cocking arm), and a barrel measuring about 2" longer.
On unboxing it, the first thing I noticed was the plain black plastic front sight blade, so I grabbed a bottle of White Out and placed a little white dot at the tip to make it easier to see. I then cleaned the barrel, attached the shoulder stock, grabbed a tin of CPHP, and headed into the back yard to see how it shoots.
My target board is pounded into the ground at 25 yards from my usual shooting table. Not having shot open sights since I was kid over 25 years ago, I didn't want to embarass myself so I just popped a squat on the ground at what I estimated to be 10 yards. It only took 3 pellets for me to realize I didn't like the cavernous open sights so I grabbed a screwdriver and flipped the rear sight upside down to the peep sight. From there, I fired maybe 10 more pellets, adjusting the sight a little after each pair of pellets.
At that point, it was fairly close so I decided to try a 5-shot group. I had one wild shot but the other 4 can be covered by a dime. Afterwards I measured off the distance at just over 11 yards. I have no idea if that's good but I'm happy with it for a first effort from this bone stock carbine. I just hope it's not beginner's luck. If I can keep it up, and hopefully get better, it will serve me well for the intended purpose of short range pesting.
I took a few quick chronograph readings and, with 14.3gr pellets, it's running about 360fps on 5 pumps (4.1fpe) and 440fps on 10 pumps (6.1fpe).
At this point, I think I'll look at improving the trigger with the 22LR shell casing mod that I've read about. And I'm hoping I can figure out something to take out the play in the barrel band. I know I can get a nice machined one but it looks like they run as much as the gun and I just can't bring myself to do that.
Somewhere down the road, I intend to convert it over to .177 with a steel breech kit and an 18" barrel, and install a scope. Meanwhile, I'm going to see if I can hone some old-school shooting skills and just enjoy shooting it.
Overall, I'm very happy with the purchase!
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Lookin good man. Mine is in pieces right now, getting ready to get new insides.. Get you a steel breech and throw a nice little scope on there. You will EASILY be able to cover that 5 shot group from 10 yards.. I won't be able to put mine back together until my solid pin comes in so I'm out of commission for a little bit.. Keep us updated on how things are going.
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You can get the fiber optic high viz front sight for 7 or 8 bucks.
Jeff
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While waiting on a machined barrel band, you can use two layers of soda can to shim the plastic one. I also added a layer of black elec tape between the shim and the air tube. If yours doesn;t have that much play, one soda can shim + tape. It takes a bit of futzing around, and you need to leave the pump arm channel open, and drill through the shim for the pivot pin, but I have a tight band until I order a machined one.
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congrats!
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I think this little gun is going to be a winner. This afternoon I was shooting it with my son and set up a reactive pellet trap at a little over 10 yards for some practice shooting with the open sights. It's the Gamo target shown here:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ARE0BjT9L._SX342_.jpg (http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41ARE0BjT9L._SX342_.jpg)
The small spoons are 3/4" dia and the large ones are 1". After a few warm up shots, I hit 5 in a row and 7 out of 8. I know this, the thrashers are in for a rude awakening when they come in to raid my figs this summer!
At one point, even my wife even joined in on the fun. Posted a little writeup about in the Back Room.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=44427.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=44427.0)
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I went out to the shop tonight and did a little work on the trigger group. Cut off the useless front section of the trigger, then filed the rough spots off the trigger and sear and polished them both up. Clipped a turn off of the spring and installed a polished .22LR casing as a spring guide. Also replaced the wave washers on the pivot pins with polished flat washers to take out the side-to-side play. The flat washers require careful selection to get just the right thickness but help relieve just a little more friction from the trigger pull.
All these things are as described by airgunsnirvana at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3Ko9uixqZM#ws (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D3Ko9uixqZM#ws)
It feels pretty smooth now. I'm glad I did it.
I had read about the little safety spring and ball so I managed to get it apart without losing them. But I had to attach and remove the cover a couple of times before getting the washers just the right thickness and one of those times, the ball and spring went sailing through the air. I heard one of the pieces hit the wood floor over near my bandsaw. Sure enough, I found the ball lying there in a thin film of sawdust. But the spring was nowhere to be found. I rummaged around on the floor for about 5 minuites looking for it and decided to have another look on the workbench. As I leaned over to look under something, the spring fell out of my hair and landed on the table! So I managed to get it back together after all.
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lol. Good to hear you didn't lose the ball or spring.
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Hey guys,
I tore the 2289 completely down this weekend and went through a host of cleanup and tweaks:
- Touched up barrel crown - Factory crown looked uniform but snagged a cotton swab. Polished it up using a #8 round head brass screw with 320, 400, 600, and 2000 grit
- Deburred all rough edges of the air tube, cocking arm, and spring ends.
- bolt probe - turned down the tip to improve air flow
- barrel band mods - Added set screws to stabilize the barrel, and shimmed the barrel band to the air tube. Previously, it moved around like crazy and now it's nice and rigid.
- barrel gasket - Noticed the barrel fit loosely to the breech. Added a gasket to prevent blow-by
- bolt O-ring - Similarly, the bolt O-ring fit loosely to the breech so I shimmed it out to form a better seal.
Pumping used to be gritty but now is very smooth thanks to the deburring work.
I was expecting a bump in velocity from the combination of turning down the bolt probe, sealing the barrel to the breech, and shimming the bolt O-ring. But a couple of test shots over the chrony with 10 pumps showed no improvement. That was a letdown.
It was getting late when I finished reassembling it so I'll have to wait until tomorrow to see if it groups better. I'm expecting an improvement from stabilizing the barrel band and the barrel. To me, that was the part about the gun that just screamed cheapness. Much better now.
Here's a few photos:
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Regarding the transfer port, can you guys tell me the proper orientation? I may have put it in upside down. Couldn't tell from the grainy exploded view of the 2289. I have the short side down into the rubber seal and valve, and the long side up to the barrel inlet. It seemed to fit better that way.
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If my memory serves me right, I believe I have mine the same way you have yours. The other way didn't seem to seat correctly in the rubber seal.
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The other way didn't seem to seat correctly in the rubber seal.
Thanks James. The fitment to the rubber seal was the same reason I oriented it that way. So hopefully that means we are both right! :)
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Yes, you both have them in right. Nice work there, it was worth the work to get it pumping smoothly.
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Hey guys, I got home this evening and had a few minutes before the sun went down to go try out the gun post-cleanup.
I have a little 4-type assortment of Benjamin pellets that didn't shoot very well in any of my rifles so I've been shooting them in the 2289, figuring most any pellet ought to be consistent enough at 11 yards. Besides, how would I know the difference? I'm shooting open sights! ;D
So I grabbed 5 of the pointed pellets and dropped them in my pocket and walked out to the target board and hung up a piece of paper. Then I just plopped down on the ground with my knee up front to help brace the gun and put all 5 pellets down the barrel using 6 pumps each.
Let me stop here and say there is something, I don't know...therapeutic about shooting open sights. Whether it's a good group or a bad group, there's no pressure. When I'm staring down a scope watching my progress and I've got a good group developing, my mind is saying, "Okay, don't screw this up!. Concentrate!". This being the first gun I've tried shooting with open sights since I was 8 years old, I'm just now realizing that distinction.
So with that said, I stood up to walk closer and check out my work and this is what I'm looking at! Gee, I guess tightening up the barrel band, well, tightened things up! I know it's only 11 yards but for me, when the first group looks like that, I don't shoot another and go screw things up. Dumb luck? Maybe, but I'll take it.
The pointed pellets don't punch a clean hole so I had to look real closely and sorta fold back the entry holes so I could scan it on my flatbed, but best I could tell, it looked like the 5 pellets created 3 holes.
This little gun seems pretty nice for what it is. Definitely more than adequate to take out pest birds eating my figs this summer. So can somebody tell me, why am I itching to go order parts for it?
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Very nice shooting man!! If you DO decide to throw a scope on there that will probably turn into one hole,lol. I'm warning you now, modding these things are addicting!!! It starts small and then you can't stop!! Throw a flat top piston and valve in there if anything.
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Nice post man.
Here's mine with a TKO break and Aluminum barrel band from Blue Fork.
Just put them on tonight.
Also has the steel breach, which is miles above the stock one.
Mine shoots around 440 to 450 fps on ten pumps also
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk237/Strikar_photos/IMG_4264.jpg)
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Nice post man.
Here's mine with a TKO break and Aluminum barrel band from Blue Fork.
Just put them on tonight.
Also has the steel breach, which is miles above the stock one.
Mine shoots around 440 to 450 fps on ten pumps also
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk237/Strikar_photos/IMG_4264.jpg)
Nice rig, those TKO's are sweet. You should try that gun out as a pistol too. ;D
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Nice rig, those TKO's are sweet. You should try that gun out as a pistol too. ;D
Just waiting on some grips, then will install this.
(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk237/Strikar_photos/Air%20Guns/IMG_4270.jpg)
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Maybe I'm missing something but how are you going to get the grips on there?
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Strikar... those Bluefork AR-15 type trigger frames do look sweet. I picked up a couple for two of my 1377 pistols too. I had to break out the dremel and do some filing on the grips because trigger frame didn't accommodate the curved portion at the top of the grip. I didn't want to just chop it off or order one without it since I like that curved section. It's in the photo in my sig.
Trigger pull doesn't feel smooth on either of mine. Hopefully I can do some work on them to get the chunky creep out.
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Today I got out in the shop and tore down the 2289 (again), this time for some power mods.
- Made a solid pin for the pump arm - Okay, so this is not a power mod but it makes disassembly and reassembly much easier than banging out the factory roll pin.
- Shimmed the piston cup - Used two washers measuring 0.080" thick total. This takes up the gap left between the rubber cup and piston to help squish more air into the piston with each pump. It also has the added benefit of creating a cam-over effect to hold the pump arm closed.
- Added pins to the piston - This modification stiffens the piston to mitigate any tendency it may have to compress while pumping.
- Made poly tube transfer port - Replaced the stock transfer port with a poly tube. Its cross section is about 58% larger for less restriction of air flow.
The results are pretty remarkable. Pumping is noticeably more difficult but I am getting almost as much power with 5 pumps now as I was previously getting with 10 pumps. Now with 10 pumps, the velocity is up 90fps and it's producing almost 50% more power than before. And the nice part is, everything was done with parts I had on hand.
Here's some photos with markups to help you guys who may be interested in modifying yours.
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I have followed on this forum some excellent threads on maintenance, repairs, and
improvements to our airguns. However, for someone who is not well acquainted with
their insides, I found this thread, with its great descriptions and pictures, particulary
valuable and may move me to get out the screwdriver and see what I have been
missing by just enjoying shooting. Thanks to all who contributed
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Thanks for the kind words, Griffin.
I drafted a summary document with additional details if anyone is interested. Currently at 7 pages, including a printable scale template for making the barrel band shims.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/n3ro6yphs4ql2l4/orhYCuIPBw/Crosman%202289%20mods.pdf (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/n3ro6yphs4ql2l4/orhYCuIPBw/Crosman%202289%20mods.pdf)
Better get some sleep now ;D
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quick question, what size dowel did you start with to make that pin?
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The rod is 3/16". Please see the PDF for details.
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Did adding the washers behind the pump cup affect the pin alignment of the pump cup and piston holder?
BTW, great post above. Excellent detail and information.
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Yes, definitely. I just rotated the pump cup 90 degrees and cross-drilled a new hole. The way I drilled it was by going through the existing hole in the plastic piston, into the pump cup. I drilled about half way through from each side so the holes met in the middle, in case I wasn't drilling perfectly square. Worked like a charm.
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To an individual interested in making the modifications to their 2289 or 1377 or 1322 described in my PDF, I am offering to fabricate a set of parts and send to you free of charge.
Just two conditions. You must provide before and after chronograph results. And you must endeavor to pay forward a kind gesture to another GTA member...nothing specific, maybe a tin of pellets or parts or helping with a tune. That is up to you.
First person posting to this thread gets it. Serious individuals only please. I reserve the right to ask questions if you are not somewhat established on GTA yet.
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Good deal for someone one here!! Everyone should try to pay it forward.. Didn't mean to interrupt your thread... Should have read the bottom.. SECOND person that posts!!!!
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Read your pdf and now have a 2289 and 1377. I would be interested especially in the pivot pin.
Greg
EDIT: I will pass on your kind offer though. At this time I would not be comfortable working on the valve.(never done it before) And getting the garden in is taking a lot of my time right now.
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Hi nervoustrigger,
I am new to the forum. I have been lurking for a while. I decided to buy the doomsday kit from Academy Sports $59.99. I could not pass up this deal. This will be my first air gun to mod. I have read your .pdf and would love to have some of your mods to try in my new gun. I plan on starting a post soon. My 2289 has the dreaded canted front sight. I have read that this is common. I am going to return it for another when I head to town next.
If you want to give the kit to another more seasoned member I understand, but again would love to use your mods in my gun. I will add pics and a post after returning my defective gun.
thanks
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Hi nervoustrigger,
I am new to the forum. I have been lurking for a while. I decided to buy the doomsday kit from Academy Sports $59.99. I could not pass up this deal. This will be my first air gun to mod. I have read your .pdf and would love to have some of your mods to try in my new gun. I plan on starting a post soon. My 2289 has the dreaded canted front sight. I have read that this is common. I am going to return it for another when I head to town next.
If you want to give the kit to another more seasoned member I understand, but again would love to use your mods in my gun. I will add pics and a post after returning my defective gun.
thanks
You don't need to return it. The front sight can be moved with just a few light taps. And BTW, welcome to GTA!! There is a lot of great people and a lot of great information on here!!
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Thanks for the tip. I was under the impression from other posts there is a groove that did not allow it to twist. My entire sight is twisted a considerable amount to the left. If I can fix it by twisting it then I will try that first. I just bought it so I did not want to risk braking it with too much force.
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Backpacker, nothing would make me happier than giving these parts to a first-time modder. PM me your address and I should be able to make them up in the shop one evening after work and get the package off to you.
You will be able to do pre- and post-mod chrony measurements, right?
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Yes I will. Thank you very much. I look forward to the project. Will be my first air gun mod. I have tools and access to a shop. I will take pictures and post here.
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I would be interested especially in the pivot pin.
Greg, PM me your address. I'll knock out another pivot pin while I am at it.
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Anybody have chrony info on a flat-top valve and adjustable piston on a 2289?
I'm curious how much better it is than shimming the pump cup and pinning the piston.
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since i am thinking of ordering one of these, thank you for the mod tips with instructions. not sure i would risk tearing mine down, as i have never done it to any air rifle, though who knows what itch will hit me after the initial plinking is done
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found a guy online that has one of these for sale but it seems to be the older model (no bolt pellet loader) and the barrel is more than two inches longer...is it worth the $50 he is asking?
(http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/nickwild6/backpacker_zpsa432e1b5.jpg)
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What happened to this thread? I recently bought 2 1377s one of which I've added the 24" barrel and backpacker forearm and stock. I wanted to do some of the mods for the learning experience if nothing else. I don't have a shop but I may be interested in purchasing some of your handywork if you are willing to knock off a couple sets. I've almost completed all the home-tunes on my breakbarrels and the alturnative that I'm trying to avoid filling my free time is that lonely, cold spot on my barstool.... just kidding, there is a time and place for everything.
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I ended up converting it to .177 cal as described in this thread (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=55323). I think it is much better suited for a carbine of this power level (10fpe) to get a reasonable trajectory.
I wish you had been around when I put my offer up for a set of parts because the guy who got them just disappeared. But knowing your background and seeing some of your work, I don't know why you're asking. The fanciest tool I used was a drill press. You're a high-stepper...go for it! Or hop in the car and get over here to my shop one weekend and we can knock them out. I'm in Laurel, about 30 min north of Hattiesburg.
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We need to meet up some time nervous. I used to play airsoft with some guys from that area of ms.
I am in new Albany, near tupelo, its just a short drive down one Saturday morning.
I have been doing some things to my 1377(its now a 1322)
And to keep the barrel band secure, I used rtv silicone between the barrel and the pump tube.
Where the plastic spacer used to be on the 1377's
It tightened things up immensely.
No more random poi changes from bumping the barrel with your fingers.
It will hit shotgun hulls at 25 yards all day long.
Here is my toy in its current configuration.
Mellon air bolt and power adjuster, steel breech, stainless barrel and TKO.
(http://i40.tinypic.com/2zstro2.jpg)
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I am going to take your walkthru and do what I can with what I have. If I get in a bind. then I will take you up on that offer. I have 10 days off for the holidays but we are moving into a new place and we planned on just taking our time. One of my next purchases will be the ProChrono Digital. I need to start checking results of what I am doing. Everything feels better after my tunes but I need to see it on paper. We stopped by our local flea market this morning and I found a really strudy camera tri-pod for 7 bucks and I grabbed that. I broke the swivel off of my spring compresser this morning so I need to replace that. I'm looking at beefing it up with some threaded rod while making the throw longer. I also have some mental designs for a break apart target rack made from 2 inch PVC pipe. My sister is about 2 hours from us and we alternate trips to shoot together. I want to take the rack with me so I'm not shooting up all their targets. I did take her a set of 4 of those 3mm steel blanks to paint and shoot. They work real well. I really don't see an end in sight for this hobby. We are really enjoying it. I am a natural born tinkerer.
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Hi Bravo, that's a nice looking 1322! I'd love to have you over sometime to shoot, do some tuning or mods, talk airgunning, grill out, or some combination thereof. Seriously, if you feel like a road trip or happen to be down this way, let me know.
Bill, that sounds good. Let me know how it goes with your mods. I figure you'll cook something else up while you're at it.
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Jason, I checked the map, we're only about 2 1/2 hours away. I can see a shoot in our future.
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Hey, I'm around most every weekend. We have young boys and whereas I'm at work all week and would rather be at home, when the weekend rolls around, my wife likes to get out so it all works out. I can get out in the shop and tinker or go in the yard and shoot. So just let me know if you're up to making the trip.
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Bought my 2289g on Oct 14th of this year. A month later I ordered a 2400KT in .22cal. I installed the steel breach kit on my 2289 in Oct. I prefer the 2289 for target and bird shooting from my window.
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I checked my local Dick's Sporting Goods store yesterday. They've marked the DBO down to $79 (m-yeah, whatever), but I'm waiting for them to have a clearance sale after the holidays.
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I basically turned my 1322 into a 2289 love the stock and the pump grips are the best.
When I got the 14.5 barrel and steel breech that completed the transformation.
I did some lead work took down the ridge at the start of the rifling and got the pellet to seat just past to port without an extended probe just a tap on the stock while pointed down.
It was hitting a quarter size target very reliably at 30 yards Premier hollows from the tin.
Av velocity over 15' was in the 490s at ten pumps
I hogged out the valve a bit, cut a few threads, coned the poppet head, thinned the poppet shaft, angled air passage 3/4 of the way to poppet
seat, shimmed pump cup .053 and increased transfer port size very slightly to .141-.142 a loose 9/64.
It is still nice and accurate and velocity is now in the 560-570s at 17 pumps.
I can probably get further gains by adding shims till I get it perfect.
I will also get another barrel 18" and enlarge transfer and barrel port to .160 hoping to hit the low 600s.
I could also stuff the piston to let me over pump a bit with more consistent results.
Aww heck all this made me realize I just need to pick another one up just so I have one at 14.5" and one at 18" :o
Aw heck I need a .20 too. :o
I guess you can tell I really do like the 13xx platform...
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the 1377 now has a 24" barrel and is hitting 650 fps.
it still has the plastic breech. :(
I am cutting the barrel down to 18" today and don't think I will lose much velocity.
I just barely eased the corner of the air passage just shy of 1/4 of the way to poppet seat,
coned the poppet head and thinned the shaft,
cut two threads off,
smoothed the leade and rifling ridge,
had to sand down nose of valve now valve face and cup and match,
had 0.65 worth of guitar pick shim under cup was to much and lost 20 fps across the board(???)
it now has .045 and will be adjusted until perfect...
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K.O. If your barrel is .22 cal, open the t-port and air passages to .170 before cutting the barrel. You should see a gain. ;)
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And I'm hoping I can figure out something to take out the play in the barrel band. I have a 1322 that I have modified and had the same problem when I installed the BlueFork barrel band. Come to find out the stock 2289G barrel band has the same problem with a sloppy pumping arm. I fixed it and here is how. Get yourself a thin flat washer and grind the center out to where your pin will fit through the washer. I took a dial caliper and measured the slot in the barrel band and the width of the pumping arm then the thickness of the washer. If you have to, sand the washer down to where there is about 2 to 3 thou. clearance when you install the pump arm back in the gun. Spread pump arm halves apart just enough to install washer in between the two halves and reinstall arm in gun. I works great. No slop when pumping. 8)
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found a guy online that has one of these for sale but it seems to be the older model (no bolt pellet loader) and the barrel is more than two inches longer...is it worth the $50 he is asking?
(http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g467/nickwild6/backpacker_zpsa432e1b5.jpg)
And you did not buy it? Tell me where it is and I'll buy it for my collection.
This IS the backpacker and it is not like the new doomsday backpacker. If you want a gun to mod then buy the new doomsday backpacker. The old one would be too much trouble to mod to the new parts that are out there now.
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K.O. If your barrel is .22 cal, open the t-port and air passages to .170 before cutting the barrel. You should see a gain. ;)
I bought the 14.5" 22 barrel I just sanded out the leade until the pellet seated how I wanted(just past the port) and the ridge at the beginning of the rifling was gone...
when I get another barrel in a few months then I will port it, this one will hit a quarter at 30 yards and do not want to chance messing it up.
I was thinking of only going .160 for two reasons one is that I want to stay with a drilled out stock transfer port the other is I do not know
how big to go before the pellet will want to catch on the port. It surprised me when I went just enough to match the transfer port and barrel.
I am guessing from a tight .140 maybe .139 to .142-.143 (my vernier is a cheap plastic dial type not precision) Just that little bit gave me a
gain of about 8 fps...
I was also thinking that I would not have to mill the barrels sealing area at .160?
I am also getting the itch to get a flat top adjustable piston so I can install the flat top valve you made for the 2100 but that is going to have
to wait a bit also. (4 grown (almost, in their 20s) kids & Christmas)
I bet it hits close to 800fps with 7.4 points when I do though 8) 8) 8)
The mods are two 13XX not switching parts on one.
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And I'm hoping I can figure out something to take out the play in the barrel band. I have a 1322 that I have modified and had the same problem when I installed the BlueFork barrel band. Come to find out the stock 2289G barrel band has the same problem with a sloppy pumping arm. I fixed it and here is how. Get yourself a thin flat washer and grind the center out to where your pin will fit through the washer. I took a dial caliper and measured the slot in the barrel band and the width of the pumping arm then the thickness of the washer. If you have to, sand the washer down to where there is about 2 to 3 thou. clearance when you install the pump arm back in the gun. Spread pump arm halves apart just enough to install washer in between the two halves and reinstall arm in gun. I works great. No slop when pumping. 8)
Oh yeah forgot again used this, Quack Quack Quack for the duck...
also I squeezed the valve spring in pliers and toasted with a bic for a few seconds. They dump 22 pumps every time and I do not have to pre cock to hold air... but I stop at 17.
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Bart, can you drill the port out to .170? Will it mess up the sealing areas any? Some guy on eBay sell ones drilled to .161, iirc. I would be afraid of botching it up somehow that big.
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Bart, can you drill the port out to .170? Will it mess up the sealing areas any? Some guy on eBay sell ones drilled to .161, iirc. I would be afraid of botching it up somehow that big.
My mistook :-[ ::). I mill the barrel to .177, then make my own t-port sleeves.(I has lathe and I'm not afraid to use it ;D ;D ;D) If using the factory parts, yes .160" is max. :D
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i wish Crosman would add the pumpers to the custom shop it would at least give you more options to order from i know the bug out is geared to the younger shooters i mean give the older guys a break like a longer barrel a steel breech and a whiskey flask or beer cooler dangit Chip
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i wish Crosman would add the pumpers to the custom shop it would at least give you more options to order from i know the bug out is geared to the younger shooters i mean give the older guys a break like a longer barrel a steel breech and a whiskey flask or beer cooler dangit Chip
i could be completely wrong since i never ordered from the CCS ..... but i really don't see any custom work from them , just a swapping of parts from other crosman guns that will fit on them . there's a boat load of aftermarket parts available to truly customize them and lots of info available on how to significantly improve them for very little to no money .... just add elbow grease and patience . for example ..... it's amazing how much better the trigger on them can be by just squashing the spring and using some fine sandpaper on the sear/trigger contact areas and lubing them with vaseline . longer barrels are available from crosman for less than $20 delivered . when i ordered my DBO from PA i also got the breech they sell for it .
i'm 52 and really enjoy shooting and modding my DBO kit . i actually like the fact that it kinda looks like a kids gun because it's less threatening looking to neighbors and less likely to be mistaken for a "real gun" , particularly if i'm seen pumping it . but (with the mods i've done so far) a reasonable amount of pumping will let rival the FPE of a .22 xs-25 or .22 rws 34 and can certainly exceed them for folks that don 't mind pumping more ..... with zero recoil and no need for additional HPA pumps or Co2 . at the other end of the spectrum they cam be pumped just a few times for quiet indoor or close neighbor shooting . and yes .... LOL , i'll admit i've become a real fanboy of them . but different folks have different needs and taste , the important thing is to get something that keeps us happy :)
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Bart, I just remembered a while back there was a post about a guy who used a grub screw/set screw that was drilled out as a the transfer port. IIRC, he drilled and tapped the new hole to accept the screw. Think he might have machined the top part to accept an o-ring. Very sketchy, my memory.
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I know this is an old thread but I want to refer to it later, so...
Posting for future reference