GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Hal the Elder on March 16, 2013, 12:49:24 PM
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For my 54-yard backyard target range, I'll be using a half-sheet of 3/4" plywood against my 6 foot cedar fence as a backstop.
Even a pellet from a magnum springer wouldn't have enough energy at that distance to penetrate 3/4" plywood, would it?
I also want to add a sheet of sound-deadening material, such as soundboard or heavy felt to soften the loud "thwack" of the pellet's impact on the plywood.
What do y'all think?
Hal
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Even a pellet from a magnum springer wouldn't have enough energy at that distance to penetrate 3/4" plywood, would it?
Maybe not one pellet, But several in the same spot would.
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DANG, I never thought of that!
HAL
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Two sheets should do... I've found that if they are not screwed together, there is a lot more stopping power because of the slap of the two boards.
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Hal, do a search on silent pellet traps here on GTA.
It uses a duck seal (a putty like stuff) as backing and from what I read, it works good.
Repeat shots in the same spot will just about wear threw anything short of steel.
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Hal,
Here's a pic of my back yard 50 yd range, looking down range.
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n148/tri5ron/Benjamin%20Marauder/IMG_6132.jpg)
Here is a pic of my daughter and my first version of a cheaply made, "Silent Target / Backstop".
it is a bunch or fabric wadded/layered in front of a plywood backing plate. Then I use some "styrofoam board" in front of the fabric, so that targets are easy to attach with straightened out paperclips.
(http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n148/tri5ron/Benjamin%20Marauder/IMG_6135.jpg)
This makes for a target that is so quiet, I can, (and often do), shoot at 10pm - 11pm at night, without upsetting any neighbors,.... and I'm in the city !
You can easily make a similar "Silent Backstop", using a few folded up "Movers Blankets", that are very cheap to buy at your local HF.
HF = Harbor Freight Tools
(they are even on sale right now for something like $3.99 - $4.99 each).
get yourself 4 or 5 of them, then fold them/stack them to your desired size/thickness.
While your out at HF, stop by HD, (Home Depot), and go over to the Home Insulation area for the Styrofoam board
Hope this helps
Ron
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That ply wood won't last very long at all. At close range it may penetrate on the first shot.
Instead, use that ply wood to make a trap and line it with duct seal. two bricks deep should do the trick. lay one row vertical and the other horizontal. It will last for thousands of shots. You find the duct seal in the electrical section at the big box stores.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Duct-Seal-Compound-Plugs-10-Pack-DS-110/100212441#.UUSkoxzvtIo (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Duct-Seal-Compound-Plugs-10-Pack-DS-110/100212441#.UUSkoxzvtIo)
Here is one I made from scrap wood.
http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/u591/gtahunterpics/20130316_120652_zpse12ede8f.jpg (http://i1323.photobucket.com/albums/u591/gtahunterpics/20130316_120652_zpse12ede8f.jpg)
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I totally agree with using duct seal. It's quiet, which is desireable, and effective at stopping your pellets.
If you have to use plywood, and you have enough room, consider angling it forward so that if you miss your duct seal target, at least you'll be hitting it at a downward "glance". It will help from keeping a pellet coming back at you, too.
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HEY TEXAS,
Bricks? I don't see any.
That duct seal looks like tar.
Hal
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My duct seal stops all my pellets. None even begin to go through. Even when I stack 'em with the marauder it holds up nicely. That being said I mostly shoot at 25yds, so distance counts. I never shot a .25 so I can't say on that caliber, but duct seal works well for me.
I guess if I needed a 4x8 sheet of wood behind the target I'd consider moving closer, or tighten up the groups a bit before trying more than 10 yards.
JMHO
PaperPunch1
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HEY TEXAS,
Bricks? I don't see any.
That duct seal looks like tar.
Hal
It's a brick of putty. Brick, meaning shape. More clay-like than tar-like.
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He meant "bricks" of Duct Seal.
it is a very very dense type of "putty" that absorbes the energy of the pellet.
Excellent stuff, but can get a little pricey if you plan on making a larger target area.
ps, Those little "green plastic army men" and dinosaurs, available at the party supply stores are great fun "reactive" targets.
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HEY TEXAS,
Bricks? I don't see any.
That duct seal looks like tar.
Hal
Well, I guess they are technically called plugs. I just call them bricks. :D No actual bricks used.
Yeah, it has a clay or a hard play-doh like consistency and won't harden up.
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Something I did years ago was to screw some semi truck mud flaps on the back of my big piece of plywood. Thus preventing pellets from going through same hole past your sheet of plywood. It worked for me. Pellets that do go through the plywood will just drop on the ground.
Gene
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For 10 yards or less, I use a duct seal lined pellet trap. One you can buy or build. For 25 yards or more, I use 3/4" pressboard sheet cut in half and doubled. I screw them together. That gives me plenty of room to attach several targets to prevent shooting out just the center, which could happen rather quickly. After it starts chipping away too much, I simply turn it around and shoot a few thousand more rounds. My backstop has lasted almost 2 years now. I use a 2 wheel dolly to roll it out and back into my shop between shooting sessions.
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae272/ezman604/Camera-2.jpg)
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae272/ezman604/7-21-2012035.jpg)
I also have a new 4 level target rack but haven't had a chance to actually season it yet. SOON!!!!
Has 7 of the practice golf balls on dowels when completely filled up.
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae272/ezman604/IMG_0218.jpg)
SAFE & Happy Shooting!!!!
Dave
8)
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Now that is one beautiful golf course style shooting range. And your pellet back stops look great. Thanks for the beautiful shot of your 18 hole course Dez... :) Not to mention those fantastic rifle racks.
Gene
For 10 yards or less, I use a duct seal lined pellet trap. One you can buy or build. For 25 yards or more, I use 3/4" pressboard sheet cut in half and doubled. I screw them together. That gives me plenty of room to attach several targets to prevent shooting out just the center, which could happen rather quickly. After it starts chipping away too much, I simply turn it around and shoot a few thousand more rounds. My backstop has lasted almost 2 years now. I use a 2 wheel dolly to roll it out and back into my shop between shooting sessions.
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae272/ezman604/Camera-2.jpg)
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae272/ezman604/7-21-2012035.jpg)
I also have a new 4 level target rack but haven't had a chance to actually season it yet. SOON!!!!
Has 7 of the practice golf balls on dowels when completely filled up.
(http://i979.photobucket.com/albums/ae272/ezman604/IMG_0218.jpg)
SAFE & Happy Shooting!!!!
Dave
8)
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HaaHaa
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Dave’s wine rack target holder. 8)
Me like. ;D
What happened to all the wine that was on it before it became a target holder? ;)
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Truck mud flaps, huh? You guys are full of ideas!
Whatever I settle on, I'll be using 12" diameter 100-yard small-bore rifle targets, which look to be a good challenge for my abilities, with the bull being 1" in diameter.
Also, the target mounting surface has to be able to adhere to masking tape.
HAL
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Forgot...I also covered the surface of the backstop with white roll paper. Then I can use Shoot-N-C peel & stick targets. Any other 8-1/2x11" printed targets I use can simply be stapled to the backstop.
Me dranks all da wine...(HIC) and that's how I messed up all the meazurmunts of the rifle rax and had to use...dim for a target standdddz......(HIC)....
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LOL Dez...:) , dont know where I come up wiff rifle racks..:) Should of said old wine racks..:) But anyways that make fer a great target stand..
Gene
Forgot...I also covered the surface of the backstop with white roll paper. Then I can use Shoot-N-C peel & stick targets. Any other 8-1/2x11" printed targets I use can simply be stapled to the backstop.
Me dranks all da wine...(HIC) and that's how I messed up all the meazurmunts of the rifle rax and had to use...dim for a target standdddz......(HIC)....
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I'm shooting 10.5 gr. chpd out of my Hammerli pnuema, and at 20 & 30 yards (consistently at 20 and 1/2 the time at30) it's blowing right through 3/4" hardwood(poplar) plywood. Got to get me a chrono to see what this things putting out. Charlie
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Ok then...what if I attached my 4'x4'x3/4" half-sheet of plywood to my cedar fence, and then screwed on a pair of rubber auto or truck floor mats to the front surface, then taped or pinned my paper target to the rubber?
HAL
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Ok then...what if I attached my 4'x4'x3/4" half-sheet of plywood to my cedar fence, and then screwed on a pair of rubber auto or truck floor mats to the front surface, then taped or pinned my paper target to the rubber?
HAL
You're gonna shoot yer eye out, kid! :)
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I've put 25 fpe (at the muzzle) .22 cal domed pellets into 3/4" OSB (flooring grade) from 15 yards. One shot did not penetrate. At 15 yards, the pellet loses 20% of it's energy, which takes it down to 20 fpe. At 50 yds, energy drops to 50% of muzzle energy, so about 12.5 fpe. 12.5 fpe at .22 cal ain't going through 3/4" OSB that hasn't been wet. What gun and caliber are you going to be using again? If you move your target around, you aren't going to be stacking too many pellets, so... I'd put the board up and test it. If you start to bulge the back, screw another sheet to it. Done.
edit: I saw where you are buying a .22 460. From what I've seen, they put out about 22 fpe at the muzzle out of the box, which would put an 11 fpe pellet on the board. That's not going through 3/4" OSB (assuming flooring grade OSB), unless you stack a bunch of pellets or your OSB is made from balsa wood chips.
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Car floor mats are not going to stop a pellet much. What Gene was talking about is the flaps on the outside of 18 wheelers that keep mud and rocks from being thrown from the tires and hitting the car behind it.
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DON'T FORGET the wine...
:)
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I shot a piece of 3/4 ply to bits in one afternoon of shooting my 392. I my case the ply was there as a way to tack up my targets, I have nothing but wide open spaces behind.
Before the plywood I had some 4x4s dug into the ground. It took a little while but I shot those to bits too.
I have a few railroad ties that I was going to build a back stop out of but I think I would eventually shoot those to bits too.
A propper pellet trap is the way to go especially if you have neighbors on the other side of the fence.
Jeff
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Exactly... They are almost a 1/4" thick and are laced with nylon. It took years before several magnums ever got close to penetrating them. I shot the chit out that target board wiff my .22 Sumatra. Over 65 ft lbs at da muzzle. Most of my shooting was between 25 and 40 yards.
Gene
Car floor mats are not going to stop a pellet much. What Gene was talking about is the flaps on the outside of 18 wheelers that keep mud and rocks from being thrown from the tires and hitting the car behind it.
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HEY SPENCER,
The gun I'll be using in my backyard target range will NOT be my .22 cal RWS 460 magnum!
It will be my .22 cal Browning Leverage, which generates 15 ft-lbs at the muzzle, (as tested in the Rick Eutsler video), which will equate to 7.5 ft-lbs at 50yards.
Does that ease my requirements for a backstop?
Hal (Now what the heck is OSB?)
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HEY...I ALMOST FORGOT.....
In my garage I have a Steel Pellet Trap mounted on an interior wall 11 yards from my shooting position. It's designed to handle .22 rimfire as well as all airguns.
That could be my answer, but at 50 yards away, I'd have to use the maximum magnifcation on my scope to see the paper target.
HAL
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I have one of those bullet traps too Hal. I like it. I had to use black electric tape on the bottom edges to keep the lead shards from escaping through the gaps in the bottom of the plates. Careful shooting high near the clip or you'll bend the plate it fastens to. Don't ask me how I found that out but the clip doesn't grab as good now. hehe
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I have a cardboard box filled with bedsheets and have close to 1000 shots without 1 going thru it. I staple targets to all 4 sides and just turn it and then replace all 4 at once. The carboard is almost shot out so i need a new box. All pellets remain inside ande i shake them out once in a while.
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Hal, I also use 3wire bales of straw in my shooting range, with no problems. Craig
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Here is one of my mud flap box's I built. Last picture is testing mud flap material with .22 cal Gamo Hunter Extreme
Gene
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Just a note for anyone who would want to use particle board as a first layer behind a target(especially the stuff with the nice white coating)... If your speed at the target is below about 375-400fps there is a great chance the pellets will bounce and at less than 15yds, they have plenty of power to make it back to you with enough force to do damage. Additional note, make sure you have your safety glasses on!
pv
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Uncle Paulie is right. That goes for any target or backstop, especially if you have an accurate gun and use the same targets all the time. I had a pellet come back at me from a 10 meter duct seal target. The pellets were actually "stacking" behind the paper from using the same 5 bull ten meter target. It hit my cheek bone right below my glasses and broke the skin.
(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd304/haywire2/StackingPellets_zps7cea78e4.jpg)
I've learned to change targets and duct seal more often.
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I built my outdoor trap with a compost bin as a housing, with 4 layers of loose hanging mats inside.
The two front mats are rubber doormats, backed up by two heavy auto floor mats.
Front mats prevent pellet rebound.
Against the back wall of the housing is a bag of sand from Lowes, just in case.
When I can locate some 18 wheeler mud flaps I'll replace the rear two mats.
The mats are hung from the box top with ty-raps.
I use a reusable grocery sack stuffed with rags to quiet down the pellet impact.
Spring clip above opening holds targets. I use cardstock to print my targets on.
Red target spot above opening is just for scope focusing.
I have a plain black plastic sheet to hide the purpose of the box when not in use.
Looks like a plain ol' compost bin to the nosy neighbors, Just-In-Case.
Range is 27 1/2 yards from my dining room table/shooting bench, my default sight-in distance.
When the wife is out, I can move back into my living room for an additional 20 ft.
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Hal (Now what the heck is OSB?)
O-riented S-trand B-oard
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Well, since my pellet energy at 50 yards will be only half of the 15 FPE at the muzzle, I'll go ahead and use the half-sheet of 3/4" plywood to stop the lead, with a piece of carpet tacked on to help deaden the impact sound.
I want to thank all the contributors with their original ideas for backstops.
HAL the ELDER (Union artillery battery at our annual Civil War Reenactment at Calico Ghost Town in the High Desert)
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I use an electrical box lined with 10-12 lbs of duct seal with a couple of clips attached top and bottom to hold 8.5X11 printed targets. This is silent and solves repeated shot placement from going through. This is attached to pressure treated 2X8 decking screwed between fence posts. Stacked 6 high this gives a large area as a safety margin. I mounted resetable and knock down targets to them as well. I went with individual boards as opposed to a sheet of plywood so when needed I only have to replace a single board in stead of the entire sheet of plywood. At 6" from the muzzle a 16fpe pellet just barely goes in flush, so this set up will last quite a long time.
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The pellets were actually "stacking" behind the paper from using the same 5 bull ten meter target.
Impressive stacking! Looks like something you might expect to see crawling around in a sci fi flick.
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Well, since my pellet energy at 50 yards will be only half of the 15 FPE at the muzzle, I'll go ahead and use the half-sheet of 3/4" plywood to stop the lead, with a piece of carpet tacked on to help deaden the impact sound.
I want to thank all the contributors with their original ideas for backstops.
HAL the ELDER (Union artillery battery at our annual Civil War Reenactment at Calico Ghost Town in the High Desert)
Hal,
Do you know Fred Ellerman ? I believe he is a "private" in the Civil War Reenactments.
I used to travel all around the world with him while working for Boeing.
we were in a department called R.A.M.S
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A good winebottle box filled w/ interleaved newpaper works here. Quiet.
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I use six used car tires. Three stacked atop of each other, and three stood up on tread in a row, such as all the centers align and terminate at the three stacked. I screwed a peice of cardboard at four corners into the first tire and use staples to attach the targets printed from computer
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HEY RON,
No, I don't know Fred Ellerman, and there are many Privates among the local High Desert skirmishers.
I retired from Boeing (Long Beach) in July, 1998, and moved from Orange County to the High Desert.
I'm familiar with the RAMS group.
HAL
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NO BRICKS UP HERE...
Our High Desert building materials stores (Home Depot, Lowe's), do not sell duct seal in BRICKS.
They sell it in 64-oz TUBS, at $11.95 per tub.
That's all.....
HAL
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You try looking in the electrical dept. That's what dept it should be in. Probably boxed up on the floor level, as it is heavy stuff. Or contact any larger contract electrical company. They'll know what it is.
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Lowes...
Gardner Bender 1 lb Pug Duct Seal
Item #: 13591 | Model #: DS-110
Gardner Bender duct seal compound plug is a dough-like material that is easy to handle and simple to install
Material helps seal and protect gaps, holes and conduit openings against dust, moisture, drafts and noise
This material is non-deteriorating, non-toxic, non-corrosive, non-conductive and non-staining
Under normal conditions the material will not harden or form a skin
Adheres at -20 °F (-29 °C)/will not slump after 1 hr. at 350 °F (175 °C) (Flash point is over 550 °F)
Not for use outdoors
Viscosity: ASTM D-217 300-gram load - 7.0 -11.0; ASTM DS-S2 100-gram load - 9.0 -15.0
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NO BRICKS UP HERE...
Our High Desert building materials stores (Home Depot, Lowe's), do not sell duct seal in BRICKS.
They sell it in 64-oz TUBS, at $11.95 per tub.
That's all.....
HAL
That stuff in the tub is water based and way too runny. It's made for air ducts. Not what you want..
Homedepot.com shows the bricks available at the Apple Valley location. Lowes has some too. They may not know what you are asking for but it's there! Have them them look it up in the system.
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Anyone use one of the high density archery targets available at the big box stores? 18-24" on a side, six side to bang on. I'm sure they could be shot through *eventually*, but it seems they would last well if targets are shifted slightly from round to round.
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Well anyway...whatever stuff I get, it will be outdoors until I get tired of my backyard shootin' range.
(Wait 'till I tell you about my design for the target end!)
HAL
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I made this one for my back yard. The stop has a 1/8" steel plate bent to fit inside of it. It stops the pellets but it's not quite. I think the sound of the pellets hitting it is as loud as the rifle I have. No complaints from the neighbors so far.
Bryan
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That looks plenty tough Bryan. yeah, I bet it sounds like a loudspeaker. Can you sandwich an inch or so of newpaper between some cardboard box material, and make a cheap disposable sound baffling backing board? It'll close up the front, give an airgap, and muffle your metal deflecter.
I use wineboxes and newpapers, and I need an enclosure like yours for a weatherproof enclosure. I could use half the paper with your design!
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That looks plenty tough Bryan. yeah, I bet it sounds like a loudspeaker. Can you sandwich an inch or so of newpaper between some cardboard box material, and make a cheap disposable sound baffling backing board? It'll close up the front, give an airgap, and muffle your metal deflecter.
I use wineboxes and newpapers, and I need an enclosure like yours for a weatherproof enclosure. I could use half the paper with your design!
You have me thinking now. I think I could put a foam backing inside of it and on the door. Fix the door in place and cut a large hole in it and put a hinged door on that hole. It would still be big enough to shoot through and I could put a catch latch on the new door to hold it open when I want to shoot. The one problem I have is that some water gets in it now. It really cracks when a pettlet hits it and something like you described along with a new door may solve both problems.
Thanks
Bryan
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For mine, I'll tell you... I'm going a layered 3 door, with (2) hinged sides and the Top hinged door outermost. Open it up and rest the top on it, and it gives me 3 sides with a wide open front. The winebox/paper fills the opening inside. I think you get the idea.
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For mine, I'll tell you... I'm going a layered 3 door, with (2) hinged sides and the Top hinged door outermost. Open it up and rest the top on it, and it gives me 3 sides with a wide open front. The winebox/paper fills the opening inside. I think you get the idea.
I'm going to put some shingles on this one and allow them to lap over the door on the front so it will be dried in. I'll also going to cut a new hinged door into the plywood front but leave it where I can pull the door out of the top by lifting up the shingles so I can replace or add sand. I think this alone will quite it down some. If anyone complains I may add some foam to quite it down more. It's pretty big and with the steel, sand and wood it's really heavy so I'm going to add some handles on the sides so two people can carry it. Thanks for the ideas.
Bryan
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You could also hang a piece of carpet over the front of it. It would muffle the noise, keep out rain and even if you shoot through it, the metal behind would keep things safe.
The backing on the 2'x2' carpet squares is usually rubber too, making it more waterproof.
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You could also hang a piece of carpet over the front of it. It would muffle the noise, keep out rain and even if you shoot through it, the metal behind would keep things safe.
The backing on the 2'x2' carpet squares is usually rubber too, making it more waterproof.
There is one post from a guy that made a pellet stop out of mud flaps. I don't know exactly what I'm going to do? I'll post some pictures after I finnish it up.
Thanks
Bryan
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For mine, I'll tell you... I'm going a layered 3 door, with (2) hinged sides and the Top hinged door outermost. Open it up and rest the top on it, and it gives me 3 sides with a wide open front. The winebox/paper fills the opening inside. I think you get the idea.
I have finished it up for now and it's a lot quieter even without insulation. In the future I may make the door bigger and set it up so I can put a removable spinner target in it. The again I may just make a small spinner for it the way it is now. It rained really hard last night and it's dry inside. I still have it set up so I can remove the front to clean it out or add sand if needed.
Thanks for the ideas.
Bryan
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That looks good Bryan! Happy Shooting! :D
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How about bagged concrete mix. stack the bags and let the outdoor weather do the rest. Eventually the concrete will set and you have concrete wall. They use this method here in Florida lining around pipe openings in drainage canals.
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For mine, I'll tell you... I'm going a layered 3 door, with (2) hinged sides and the Top hinged door outermost. Open it up and rest the top on it, and it gives me 3 sides with a wide open front. The winebox/paper fills the opening inside. I think you get the idea.
I have finished it up for now and it's a lot quieter even without insulation. In the future I may make the door bigger and set it up so I can put a removable spinner target in it. The again I may just make a small spinner for it the way it is now. It rained really hard last night and it's dry inside. I still have it set up so I can remove the front to clean it out or add sand if needed.
Thanks for the ideas.
Bryan
Oh man, the first thing I thought of was Ole' Yeller...that's sad.
Jonesy.
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I've been following this thread with interest and amusement. The problem is interestimg and some of the solutions are amusing. IMHO there is too much effort being expended on design, fabrication, etc. I havent tried them all, but let me share with you my simple "bullet proof" solution.
First, there are basically good bullet traps: Steel traps intended for .22 long rifle, Compressed carpet 4" thick, Rubber mulch, and Electricians duct seal. Any of these will serve well to stop and trap a springer airgun pellet. One disadvantage of the steel trap is that the pellet hitting the trap makes as much, if not more, noise than the airgun.
Now we come to the backstop for the "whoops" shots. My quick, simple, and virtually indestructable solution is 8" concrete blocks. I leveled a spot, laid a short wall of 4 blocks, 3 courses high, (48" wide by 32" high). These are laid dry, courses staggered, no mortar. I made absolutely sure that the first course was level so there are no gaps between the blocks. Never have to be concerned about replacing this backstop and the texture of the block should just about eliminate any pellets bouncing back or to the side. I put my pellet trap on the ground in front of my wall and shoot knowing that I wont put a "wild one" through my backstop.
Total construction time: about an hour. No welding, no post holes to dig, no sawing, nailing, etc. And virtually indestructable with a "normal" springer/PCP airgun. If I ever decide to move the backstop, it'll take me no more than 10 minutes to tear down and be ready to move.
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You'd be surprised how fragments ricochet! I have a wood stock, with a pellet gouge from a 20yd fragment. It sickened me. A piece of junk carpet with a little air gap in front of the blocks, cures that ill. Anything to absorb the pellet energy, rather than repel it.