GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Hal the Elder on March 15, 2013, 12:01:31 PM
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Gentlemen...
I have cleaning accessories for my .22 Rimfire, .223, .30-30, .30-06, and .357 magnum. Can the cleaning solvent, cleaning rods, bore brushes, jags, patches, and gun oil be used on my new Airguns?
Thanks,
HAL
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Depends on gun and how you use it. Springers, I'm not as familiar with but hear they can diesel (bad.) If it's a pump gun, you could use a small bit on the pivot points on the pump arm linkage. But don't put any on the piston, don't want the oil getting in the valve (use pellgun oil or non det. 10w-30.) If you want a rust inhibitor on bluing, go for it. But a sillicone gun cloth would probably be better. Again, I hear silicone is bad for getting into a spring guns power plant though. Pellgun oil can also be used on pivot points. Hope that helps some.
Stick away from Hoppes solvents, too abrasive. Use something like ballistol lightly on AG.s
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I think the issue is the residue left behind. No you don't want any of that stuff anywhere near your chamber or seals as it may well eat them and will probably cause dieseling issues. But for just cleaning the barrel itself I don't see any harm so long as you can do so without leaving any stuff in the barrel or getting it on the rubber seals (firearms generally don't have rubber seals). It's for this reason that goo gone ($1 at dollartree, available most anywhere really) is recommended. It's known to get gunk out of barrels and is not harmful to the gun. Most air rifles come from the factory with a ton of gunk in the barrel and it is expected that you'll clean it out with pellets over the first few hundred shots.
The rods may or may not be useful. Most rods are for 22 at the smallest. I have been using a 1/8" wood dowel and just pushing patches through. Many use weed whacker line or fishing line to pull patches through (this is better if your gun has baffles as your less prone to loose the patch). I don't see where a brush would really do any harm, but it's really not necessary.
In a firearm there is burning powder that leaves deposits and a high speed bullet that leaves copper or lead fouling. In an airgun there is air and the pellet which travels at speeds that don't really leave deposits (unless you have a monster air gun). Each pellet picks up the dust from the last pellet as it travels down the bore and wipes it out while leaving it's own trail of dust. So shot after shot the barrel maintains a set level of mild dirtiness.
It's because of this that most recommend cleaning an airgun barrel every 300 to 1000 shots. And a freshly cleaned barrel will need several seasoning shots to bring it back to normal. I have heard from people who have never cleaned their barrels and their guns shoot fine. I think it's important to clean the barrel very well when you first get the gun and perhaps every thousand shots after just as a re-set. Also if you start loosing accuracy, certainly give it a clean.
Oh, I've also heard that using JB NonEmbeding Bore Bright for an initial cleaning can be a good idea. It is a polishing compound and can smooth over rough edges left by the factory that might take thousands of rounds to work out. I'd clean the barrel thoroughly before and after using it. I haven't done this yet to any of my guns, but I might. I don't think it could hurt if carefully used once. I don't think it should be repeated unless the inside of the barrel is damaged by rust or something though.
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Airguns do not foul the barrel like a powder burner. No need for PB cleaning products.
A little degreaser, like Simple Green, is all you need to clean the barrel.
I would not use a cleaning rod in any of my airguns. I don’t want to take the chance of damaging the crown. I use fishing line and pull cloth patches from the breech. First couple of patches are wetted with Simple Green, then followed by as many as it takes to get a clean patch pulled threw the barrel.
If not very careful, petroleum products can damage airgun seals and detonate (diesel) in the barrel or chamber.
Bottom line is that airgun barrels are light weight and thin compare to powder burners and need to be treated as so.
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Like Gandalfretlaw pointed out on the seasoning of the barrel. You may find your new airguns shooting better as the lead tightens up the bore. Also pointed out airgun barrels have softer metal and a brass brush might wear it out. Could be why a new barrel is way cheaper than a PB (easier to machine).
Since you have a lot of questions. You may look into the debate on cleaning and lubing pellets. You may also want to use the search engine to go through old info and post to expand your knowledge of yours or any airgun info.
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For most guns, a pull-through such as the Bore Snake is more than adequate. If you use monofilament or weed-whacker line, be careful to use some sort of muzzle protector since those can actually erode the crown through abrasion. Hoppes Number Nine is pretty volatile stuff. You do not want any to accidentally get into the compression chamber or it will detonate. Ditto gun oil. I don't mind gun oil for pivot points, etc, but keep it away from the compression tube. I don't even wipe my guns down with an oily rag. Really, that's like 1930's technology, anyway. Many a n old gun has been ruined by the over-generous application of oil, slowly migrating down the inside and out to settle in the open grain of the stock. There are lots of good, modern metal preservatives such as Barricade, Break Free and the like. Barricade (the old Sheath) has been proven by my many guns not to affect synthetic materials or stock finishes. With any of these, less is more. Just a drop or two on a patch can wipe down a whole rifle. Get yourself a silicone treated gun sock for when you're ready to put it away. Helps cut down on the dread safe dings, too.
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Two of you mentioned "PB".
What's Dat?
I know that PB is lead on the Periodic Table of the Elements...is this what you meant?
HAL the INQUISITIVE
(Also...what's a "crown"?) ???
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PB is powder burner, a gun using gun powder to make the bullet to move down the barrel.
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I have used Hoppe's on my guns with good results, but for several years now, I have been using Ballistol exclusively. You can use it on the metal and the wood without harm to your gun or stock.
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Like the guys post, there's no need for brushes, or hard solvents. Pulling patches with Citric based cleaners, is the easiest on the finer plating and rifling of airgun barrels. I use plain old Outers oil to keep external joints, etc. free. Keep the barrel and external steel finish oiled and wiped down, just as you would your other guns...same with the wood.
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HEY GLENN,
Oh, so they use gunpowder to move the bullet down the barrel, do they?
I was never sure of that...thanks!
HAL
(Here's a shot of my ammo reloading bench:)
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Hal, now I see you problem, you are way too organized.
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Careful. MANY firearm oils have petroleum in them which will dissolve synthetic parts used for air gun parts.
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Policed the area before pic. ;)
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Good one Hal,
PB is just the term that AG nuts use for all of the regular Firearms.
AG stands for Air Gun.
The Crown, is the muzzle end of the barrel, right where the rifling terminates. AG barrels are softer steel than PB barrels. This can result in a damaged, (albeit, EVER so slightly), Crown. The Crown, or Re-Crowning, is often a topic of discussion on the forum. Sometimes, the crown is not perfectly concentric to the barrel,... meaning for example,... the rifling may be "uneven" in contact with the pellet,... as it leaves the muzzle. This can cause wobble in flight, which in turn causes a less than perfect grouping or consistency of POI. Even the slightest little scratch at the crown can effect the POI, so that is why it is so crucial.
Get yourself a "Crown Saver" type of barrel cleaning "rod", (It's actually not a rod, but rather a string in a plastic tube with a handel), in other words, it a "pull through" rather than a "push through".
POI = Point of Impact.
AG shooters are generally much more anal or exacting about POI than "PB Only"shooters are. This is mainly because we are operating on lower velocities than PB guns are,.. with lighter projectiles,.. therefore, Shot Placement is MUCH more important when taking down game, pests,... as well as many here shoot competition FT (Field Target).
Since we do not have the same luxery as PB's in that we are not relying on "Massive Tissue Damage", generally "Fuse box" shots, are a much preferred shot placement, as opposed to a heart/lung shot.
Fuse Box = Brain Shot, and that basically "turns out the lights" on their quarry, with perfection being a single shot, no suffering, no follow-up shot.
AG shooters are typically going for "One Hole Groups", or "Ragged Edged One Hole Groups".
You will often see us speak of "Dime Sized Groups".
Basically, that is what everyone is working towards. When you can post up pics of "Dime Sized Groups", it's sort of like bragging rights.
Sort of like in the hunting gate is always happy to see a shot "Right between the eyes of a Nutter @ 50+ yds.", or a "Head shot on a Hosp at 65+ yds"
Nutter = Squirrel
C-rat = Oppossum
Hosp = House Sparrow
GH = Ground Hog
Digger = Gopher (or Ground Hog)
Black Chicken or Sky Rat = Crow
Yellow Beak = Starlings
and there are plenty more acronyms/nick names to learn too, Hahaha !
Hope this helps,
Ron
also, check out the GTA Library, LOTS of good stuff there.
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:( Sorry mistake. :(
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You caan get a good airgun oil from Lowes or any of the bigger Hardware places. Its used for nailguns and air compressors.
jim
I’m not sure if it would be safe for airguns.
Nail guns and shop air compressors are low pressure. 200 psi or less. Airguns pressures are over 3000 psi for the most part.
If anybody gets the stuff from a box store, make sure it is not petroleum base.
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:(
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I got another bottle of that oil from Lowes today and am sorry to report that it does diesel and fouls the barrel with a black soot. I'm sorry to have misled anyone.
Jim
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You can go back and erase the recommendation, and just put in a :-X face.
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HEY ROB,
Since I have an underlever, I can't push a patch with a wood dowel from the breech end, so I'll have to push the patch from the muzzle end.
"In the Boiler Room"...a shot through the rib cage.
(That shot of my reloading bench was messy...I didn't have my.45 Colt brass cases all aligned.)
Hal the Organized
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HEY RON,
Up here in the High Desert, we don't have such critters!
Instead of Crows, we have the much larger Ravens, some with a 4-foot wing span. (They're protected by State Law) They drive our dogs crazy and lift the lids off trash cans on pickup day!
In addition, we have Coopers Hawks, Turkey Vultures (some with 7 foot wing span), Coyotes, Kit Foxes, BobCats, Kangaroo Rats, Jackrabbits, Tortoises, and the dreaded
Mojave Green.
This is a totally different environment from where most of you live! Our local Mojave River starts at Silverwood Lake in the San Bernardino Mountains, and runs 60 miles underground before surfacing in the mid-Mojave Desert.
I'm almost finished with my 50-yard Target Complex.
HAL
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What kind of place is that that the picture overlooks? I see a big parking lot in the back.
Is your shooting range around there?
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No, Jerry...
That's our famous Calico Ghost Town, which is the tourist attraction remains of the old Calico Silver Mine, which produced ore up until the 1920's.
They have saloons, gift shops, restaurants, country and ragtime band concerts, and old time "shootouts" on Main Street, which always draw big crowds. We live only about 40 miles from Calico.
During the annual Civil War Days, they have live re-enactments between uniformed Union and Confederate troops with lots of musket and loud cannon fire.
During the Calico Days event, there are parades, with men & women on horseback in period costumes and lots of Old West memorabilia.
Here's a shot of my wife among the original ruins: (No, she's not one of those ruins!)
HAL
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:o Well ...I have been a PB shooter all my life and my main experience in AG is with my trusty old Red Ryder...I seem to be making every noobie mistake in the book. Thank goodness for all of you guys that are willing to share your knowledge. I have a new Benji NP XL 1100 and I cleaned the barrel and external metal with Hoppes # 9.It removed a ton of thick black Chi-com cosmoline/grease from the bore. I put about 10 rounds through it and it does diesel. I guess I need to go get some goo gone?? or equivalent citrus based degreaser and start over... Even with out any sights on it I am hitting a palm tree trunk at 20 meters with every shot so far....
The whole point of the new Benji is to wage Jihad against the nutters down here. We had no winter to speak of and there is a huge population boom of them. they are eating my garden, roof and anything else they can get ahold of. Its killing me to have to go through the paces of breaking in the Benji, but I want to do things the right way...so Back to square 1...
Thanks for all the great info guys!!
Pete
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I used Hoppe's Gun Oil on the cartridge of my (cheap) Crosman Phantom, and now it won't shoot anything and just makes a farting noise when I pull the trigger. I'm assuming the oil is what broke it. Is there any hope for cleaning it at this point to restore it to functionality?
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> I would not use a cleaning rod in any of my airguns. I don’t want to take the chance of damaging the crown. I use fishing line and pull cloth patches from the breech. First couple of patches are wetted with Simple Green, then followed by as many as it takes to get a clean patch pulled threw the barrel.
Could anybody share some pictures of how they clean the barrel with fishing line? Do you tie the end around the cloth, or use a tiny hook or something?
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Yep, I tie patches on.
I feed a length of weed eater string with the fishing line tied to it to get the fishing line through the barrel from the breech end. I pull the first patch wet then tie the next dry patch, pull, tie the next dry patch, pull and continue until the patches come out clean. Then I cut the line off the spool and throw the whole mess away.
That said, I only clean barrels if accuracy falls off and there are no other obvious reasons.
Matter of fact... if a new barrel shoots accurate right out of the box, I don't clean it until it don't.
YMMV.
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I used Hoppe's Gun Oil on the cartridge of my (cheap) Crosman Phantom, and now it won't shoot anything and just makes a farting noise when I pull the trigger. I'm assuming the oil is what broke it. Is there any hope for cleaning it at this point to restore it to functionality?
Sounds like a pellet stuck in the bore ??? You sure it is clear ?
Otherwise it's service time to see if seal is shot or main spring broken.
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Used Hoppes#9 on a Benji Pump once.
Just couple patches pulled thru with weed whacker line then dry patches.
Bore sure was shiny after cleaning.
It's never been even a little accurate since
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Bahahahaaa
Some dainty lasses in here eh.
"Hoppe's #9... I put that sh!+ on everything"
Someone claiming Hoppe's ruined their gun...lol.
Some y'all act like they're made of glass. I hope I never get this skeered to clean a gun.
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Used Hoppes#9 on a Benji Pump once.
Just couple patches pulled thru with weed whacker line then dry patches.
Bore sure was shiny after cleaning.
It's never been even a little accurate since
My eyes just rolled out the back of my head. This is some silly stuff y'all are saying. It's not acid ffs. Cleaning a seasoned barrel will always effect accuracy, it had nothing to do with the product. Good lord.
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I really don't see the benefit in the content of your last 2 replies. Not sure what forum you hung out in before you joined the GTA but we try not to be as abusive/critical here on the GTA. Our forum is a fellowship of members who enjoy sharing their experience and knowledge in airguns.
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Midneight my man be careful with your language or maybe you should have a read of the rules, https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/board,113.0.html (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/board,113.0.html)
David
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Funny thing, since I stopped using Crosman pellets I haven't had to clean my barrels. Hmm?
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I really don't see the benefit in the content of your last 2 replies. Not sure what forum you hung out in before you joined the GTA but we try not to be as abusive/critical here on the GTA. Our forum is a fellowship of members who enjoy sharing their experience and knowledge in airguns.
Oh I forgot how I learned years ago that this forum hates an opinion that doesn't fall in line with the opinions and character of the mods. Criticism has always helped people get better.
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Funny thing, since I stopped using Crosman pellets I haven't had to clean my barrels. Hmm?
I noticed that too and have not used Crosman pellets for almost 10 years. Accuracy would fall off quickly using crosman pellets and had to clean a lot more often. I use JSB on most guns and H&N in a couple, and I can go years before accuracy is affected and do a cleaning.
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Is it because Crosman uses softer lead compound? Less antimony?
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I really don't see the benefit in the content of your last 2 replies. Not sure what forum you hung out in before you joined the GTA but we try not to be as abusive/critical here on the GTA. Our forum is a fellowship of members who enjoy sharing their experience and knowledge in airguns.
Oh I forgot how I learned years ago that this forum hates an opinion that doesn't fall in line with the opinions and character of the mods. Criticism has always helped people get better.
Relax. I think you are getting off to a bad start.
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Too late Steve, he's already been shown the door.
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He earned it. He acted like he wanted to be banned from the beginning.
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Yes, he did. And almost in record time.
But back to the original question... Does Hoppes really hurt an airgun?
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Yes, he did. And almost in record time.
But back to the original question... Does Hoppes really hurt an airgun?
I remove the barrel from the gun action remove any orings and scrub away.
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I seem to remember a thread on this before...
Somebody actually took the time to soak o-rings in Hoppes #9 for an extended period and found no effects what-so-ever.
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Been a while since reading this thread.
So, what's with my Benji 392?
Only shot enough crosman pellets to see it didn't like them. RWS wadcutters seems its favorite.
Accuracy SEEMED a little off so used a little hoppes in the bore.
It was always a bit pellet fussy. Now it shoots patterns with everything.
Is there any hope bringing it back from the Hoppes treatment?
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Been a while since reading this thread.
So, what's with my Benji 392?
Only shot enough crosman pellets to see it didn't like them. RWS wadcutters seems its favorite.
Accuracy SEEMED a little off so used a little hoppes in the bore.
It was always a bit pellet fussy. Now it shoots patterns with everything.
Is there any hope bringing it back from the Hoppes treatment?
I think you may need to chronograph your shots. It is possible some seals are damaged (maybe from the Hoppes or simply age?). If velocity is varying a lot (high ES and SD) then getting good consistent accuracy will be difficult to impossible.
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Gentlemen...
I have cleaning accessories for my .22 Rimfire, .223, .30-30, .30-06, and .357 magnum. Can the cleaning solvent, cleaning rods, bore brushes, jags, patches, and gun oil be used on my new Airguns?
Thanks,
HAL
Years ago I was wondering the same thing with my brothers' .177 R9 when his bore scope showed leading at the factory choke after shooting unlubed hard lead Crosman Premier pellets. His grouping went from "nice tight clusters" at 30 yards to patterns and no amount of pulled patches restored the accuracy.
He ignored the "never use powder burner chemicals" and used Hoppes #9 (normally used for removing powder burner fouling from his rifles). After the Hoppes sat in the R9 bore for about 1/2 hour he brushed the bore with a .177 cal bronze brush, wiped out the bore with several dry pulled patches (Hoppes #9 will diesel under pressure), then re-tested the accuracy and found that it had returned. Here are a couple groups my brother shot at one sitting with the clean bore and a few "seasoning shots". He was only shooting "3 shot groups" at that time but I figured that two 3 shot groups at one sitting was at least as good as one 5 shot group :)...........
(https://i.imgur.com/QDfRViZ.jpg)
Since the die lot marked and dated boxed Crosman Premiers were the most accurate pellets from our .177 R9 we started searching for a suitable pellet lube to prevent "Crosman lead fouling" and after testing a couple lubes we settled on a thin film of aerosol Slick50 One Lube applied only to the rifling surfaces of the pellet and I've been lubing my die lot marked and dated 7.9 grain CPLs till they have become "un-obtanium". LOL, lubing the CPLs extended the time needed to pull some patches and only patches are needed for the bore clean. Here are a couple pics of "lubed CPL groups" from my .177 HW95.......
(https://i.imgur.com/6jbM8Jw.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/2LyFu0x.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/8SZm6IE.jpg)
OK...... back to the "powder burner chemicals for airguns" topic. The reason many "airgun gurus" warned about using "powder burner lubes" was the possibility that the "non-airgun lubes" would degrade the "rubber" sealing components used and that can diesel in the bore of "piston guns". Well, I dis a test decades ago by soaking some HW95 breach seals and some orings I used for my home rolled oring sealed piston caps with this result............
Test started 12/24/2015............
(https://i.imgur.com/RLxmDbx.jpg)
Three days later the HW breech seal was still pliable so I added one of the orings I used for oring sealed piston caps and all was still good after soaking in straight Hopper #9 for over an hour.........
(https://i.imgur.com/znPNYye.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/hh8P53B.jpg)
After 5 days the seals that were soaked were inspected and still appeared to be in good shape.........
(https://i.imgur.com/tTiTGhU.jpg)
Bottom line...........
I never soak my HW breech seals in Hoppes #9 for over an hour so I personally don't believe that a bit of the "Hoppes solvent" getting on a breech seal for a few seconds is an issue and "Hoppes" would matter be used inside the receiver.
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Been a while since reading this thread.
So, what's with my Benji 392?
Only shot enough crosman pellets to see it didn't like them. RWS wadcutters seems its favorite.
Accuracy SEEMED a little off so used a little hoppes in the bore.
It was always a bit pellet fussy. Now it shoots patterns with everything.
Is there any hope bringing it back from the Hoppes treatment?
I think you may need to chronograph your shots. It is possible some seals are damaged (maybe from the Hoppes or simply age?). If velocity is varying a lot (high ES and SD) then getting good consistent accuracy will be difficult to impossible.
Doubt it. I'm thinking the brass is damaged. Remember these Benjis are built with brass. With the light right you can see the pellets fly down range.
It's like watching a good baseball pitcher pitch. Generally the pellets make a large spiral with many flying up and right or down and left.
Can't see it being anythig other than the bore damaged
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Hoppes shouldn't eat brass. Seems more like damaged crown. I had a Crosman and a Beeman with muzzle burrs. Pellets shotgun all over. Caught some pellets in HPDE plastic shopping bags and noticed pellets had partial rifling on one side and a gouge on the other side. Then pushed a few pellets through bore. HARD stop at muzzle, much harder than any normal choke.. Removed muzzle breaks and bad crowns were obvious. Really sloppy factory QC! Recrowned both and it made a big difference. My barrels were steel. Not certain how to recrown brass.
Suggest shooting into plastic bags and/or push pellet through bore. It should be pretty clear if there is bore/crown damage or not.
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Choice of pellets may also be the cause of spiraling.
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Generally speaking, I think Hoppes 9 is best reserved for firearms….
…..and occasionally as a nice cologne…..
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Hoppe's is mostly kerosene. I use it first cleaning with a bronze brush to knock down any machining left-overs, then follow up with dry patches, then alcohol wet patches, then dry again, then Remoil so the bore doesn't rust, then dry patches until I get the oil out.
I don't recall ever needing to clean an airgun barrel a second time, but I suppose if I did it would just be Hoppe's followed by dry patches.
If you have one that just doesn't want to group with anything and the crown is good, I'd definitely try the JB non-embedding bore paste. I've only used JB paste once and group went from not quite being sure standing behind the rifle was safe to literally one hole group at 25 yards.
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I seem to remember a thread on this before...
Somebody actually took the time to soak o-rings in Hoppes #9 for an extended period and found no effects what-so-ever.
That would be me, and after a 24 hour soak the O-rings absorbed a small amount and swelled a tiny bit.... but after removing them from the Hoppe's #9 they returned to normal after a short time.... with no permanent effects.... I don't worry about using Hoppe's #9 on any of my PCPs....
Bob
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I'm relieved that PB cleaning solvents don't harm AGs. I don't want to have to keep track of chemical sensitivities. Maybe once a year I will run a slightly damp patch with ballistol down an AG barrel just to see what's in there. There's never anything unusual in there. I'll do the same whenever I get a new AG or a new used AG. Sometimes there's a lot of &^^& in those barrels and I'll have to do some scrubbing with ballistol. I'll use light machine oil which could be gun oil or 3 in 1 oil to lube some moving parts on AGs. I'll also very occasionally run a lightly oiled patch down the barrel of guns that I shoot all the time. That oiled patch seems to keep the barrel clean. After I had about 20,000 pellets thru my IZH46M I sprayed some ballistol thru the action. Very little dirt came out so maybe I wont do that again for at least 30,000 more pellets. I don't have any powerful AGs so detonation is not a problem.
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Funny thing, since I stopped using Crosman pellets I haven't had to clean my barrels. Hmm?
I have a theory for the rapid barrel fouling I had consisting of a combination of issues, however the main issue was actually shooting dry undersized CPLs rather than sorting them out.
Over the years I found that the CPL had "seasons of inconsistencies" (especially the cases of die #7) with undersized pellets in the mix, however the "good fitters" were good enough that I took the time to presort the CPs before dropping them into the pellet pouch. Presorting was simply done by dropping them into the leade of a cocked R9 or HW95 barrel and visually noting how high they sat in the leade. If a pellet fell visually "too deep" into the leade it was shaken out and another substituted. If the substitution sat visually at the appropriate height if was pressed into the leade and shot. Here are a couple "sorted by eye" CPL vs other brands comparison targets fro "back in the day".............
(https://i.imgur.com/cTkKs8L.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/L8mI96e.jpg)
I used "hard lead Crosman Premiers" from the 1250 count cardboard boxes for a couple decades till they became "unobtanium" because a good fitting CP was the most accurate pellet from my HW springers. When I first started using die lot marked and dated Crosman Premiers I also had "rapid bore fouling" from the hard lead "Crosman pellet alloy" (or so I read) and while this may be part of the issue I often wondered is there were other "pellet issues" such as the parting compound used by crosman (appeared to be powdered graphite) and traces of swarf in the boxes since I dumped CPLs directly in my pellet pouch and shot the "loose fitters" along with the rest of the box. Later when testing out some Crosman Premiers from the 500 count tins my "loadin' fingers" looked like this.......
(https://i.imgur.com/afC52i7.jpg)
I also tested out another "Crosman factory offering" with the 750 count Benjamin pellets from the tin and the tins were exceptionally "dirty" with a lot of swarf in the tins like this........
(https://i.imgur.com/CDvouhm.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/D7WCNvy.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/tWFuKYP.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/IsbKx3N.jpg)
Seemed that Crosman "got their act together" and last couple cases of die lot marked and dated Premiers I received were very good without swarf, more than a half dozen "peewees" or excess parting compond so I stocked up on a few extra cases in 2014, and marked the boxes with manufacturing date and and date received........
(https://i.imgur.com/qAUdBif.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/KffbpLx.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/9GsWzQ8.jpg)
Anywhoo, I learned that lubing my hard lead CPLs with aerosol Slick50 OneLube eliminated the "soldered to bore fouling" when using CPLs and all it took to clean the bore and restore accuracy after shooting about a 1000 pellets was pulling through a patch moistened with RemOil followed by a few dry patches to restore accuracy.
Since the boxed CPLs are no longer offered by Crosman I'm finishing up my remaining CPLs and testing other brands, notably Air Arms and H&N domes and for when my CPLs are depleted.
(https://i.imgur.com/pYH35ms.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/m9QzzRM.jpg)
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Wow Ed --- GREAT info!!!
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Ed, your enthusiasm, dedication and commitment are priceless for AG community in general, not to mention you documenting (almost) every single thing of your journey. Thank you!
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I agree that Ed's detailed documentation is excellent. I carefully read all his comments and should have thanked him a long time ago. But now that I'm remembering it today---- THANKS ED. Detail listing of the gun, sights, ammo, conditions, shooting position, group size with pictures and DISTANCE tells the whole story. But hey, sometimes we're just plinking at a can that keeps moving making it impossible to determine the exact distance.
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Wow Ed --- GREAT info!!!
Thanks to all for the kind comments! :)