GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: mcc1961 on February 13, 2013, 11:07:31 AM
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What all do you need to do to paint the metal parts of a gun so the paint does not wear off when handling?
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de grease it very good. I use brake parts cleaner.
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Never painted a gun but have paint cars. Like he said degrease and clean well. The durability of and paint job is the prep work. You'll have to sand it with something around 320 grit so that primer will bond good. Then clean it well to remove all grease and dirt. Then apply a quality primer. I've had good luck with dupli-color sandable primer.
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Search for cerakote - awesome stuff
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maybe i should have mentioned that i use SEM self etching aluminum and steel primer. Best metal primer i have found its like 15$ a can at napa or flowers auto parts. I dont even sand with this stuff.......
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I found some krylon flat black paint and primer in one which I am going to paint the sight ramp and the breech with.What of the barrel is left will be painted an flat olive green.The primer for the barrel is rustoleum clean metal primer and for clear sealer I am going to use valspar flat.
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Then you should be good with that primer. Just clean it super good.
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If you are thinking Rustoleum, you are not interested in durability, just looks.
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Cleaning is the trick. GooGone and hot dawn water will start the process as well. GOOD DRY surface and alcohol wipe will work after that. The best thing I HAVE USED IS THE BEDLINER spray. Once cured it is hard stuff. Can be topcoated with flat black prior to drying.
FANG
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Interesting stuff guys, thanks.
Can any of you show a gun that you've spray painted? I mean show us some pics here.
I've done it to an old Walther and the result is amazing. Durability has yet to be proven though.
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Search for cerakote - awesome stuff
Not just awesome, this is the BEST treatment. I've has this done to a few of my PB guns, and nothing can match it.
That said, a proper treatment is professionally done - parts are treated (media blasted) and the cerakote is baked on. It's not exactly cheap, and you'll need to send your gun away, unless you're lucky enough to have a shop that does this in your backyard.
A properly cerakoted anything (I've had it done to the cases of a few watches as well) will be your longest lasting option. You get what you pay for.
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maybe i should have mentioned that i use SEM self etching aluminum and steel primer. Best metal primer i have found its like 15$ a can at napa or flowers auto parts. I dont even sand with this stuff.......
#2 for SEM products in general. They make trim black for painting auto trim and the results will be a function of your prep job as always. You cannot fault the SEM products as they are Professional quality. That said I prefer to give my painting to a Pro Bike frame sprayer that uses Imron finish with a flatener added so it isn't overglossy. I paint the LW barrels I fit to Hunters and US FT's, Sheridan and Benjamin actions as well as 600's, S&W's MKI & II's and LD's galore. For buzz bomb jobs and repaints of the Benjamin & Sheridan modern guns or resolder jobs on any year I use Rustoleum in the shop when a piece needs paint but the customer doesn't opt for the pro job.
A finish I have been exceptionally pleased with is the Product by DEFT called Defthane on wood. It is a floor finish for hardwoods and it is the easisit stuff to muse I have ever sprayed. They have a filler to use pre sanding which I have not employed yet but I was advised it would leave a flawless finish, then you stain & lay the product down twice and it leaves the most beautiful finish that is rock hard. You can get it at Lowes or Home Depot and the finish is available gloss, flat or satin. The Satin is my favorite. Never seen anything like this come from a shake & spray can. It gasses off a lot so the Spray booth is a big plus. I know several pro wood guys who love this stuff. When I asked about it they all agreed it is best thing for a few years now in terms of easy use. It is worth the premium price.
It doesn't matter what finish you put on anything the prep of metal and prep of surface so it will stick is everything. Tack cloths, alcohol, media blasting will all help get the surface porosity ready to accept a sealer and etcher so the Paint will stick good. A really well prepped surface with a few coats or Rustoleum can actually be a pretty durable finish if applied right and cured fully.
Prep twice as long and whine less.
TimmyMac1
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A properly cerakoted anything (I've had it done to the cases of a few watches as well) will be your longest lasting option. You get what you pay for.
True.
61, click on "Designsbydink" in my sig below. That shows the picture albums of gun cerakoting by Darrel here.
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I have finished the B-21 with flat black and olive and 2 coats of flat clear coat, going to let it dry over night and put it in the stock tomorrow.
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I painted an engine intake with Plastikote.
http://www.plastikote.com/products/Specialty/Engine-Enamel.html (http://www.plastikote.com/products/Specialty/Engine-Enamel.html)