GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Feinwerkbau => Topic started by: Nod on January 04, 2013, 05:01:28 PM
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Fed Ex just dropped off my rifle. According to the guy I bought it from, it won't push a pellet out. I'm not even going to try until I get it tuned. I did take the stock off and the spring area is loaded with gray grease, I mean loaded ! There is so much of it some of it is still stuck to the stock. I'm going to go back and read the earlier responses I got from you good folks and decide on which tune kit I want. Can't wait to get started. (My first self tune)
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Good to hear your FWB 124 arrived. Once the tuning kit arrives, the real fun will begin.
Just take it slowly when doing your first tune. If you can take pictures of the rifle while at different stages while taking it apart, that could help later when you put it back together. Be careful and safe releasing the spring tension. I'd suggest using a clamp or spring compressor since the stock spring is seriously LONG. It will stick out 4" from the back once you've released all preload. Most other guns I've taken apart have half of that or less. I got my first FWB 124 in a box of parts from a guy who attempted to open it and replace the piston seal. They actually shot the spring into the garage wall and put a hole in it, which scared them into just selling it. If I could put it back together from parts, I think you will have a much easier time having the gun intact to start. ;D
Make sure when you clean out the compression cylinder to get out all of the old, decayed seal. I had to use a wooden dowel with a beveled end to scrape around to get out piston seal that was stuck to the inside. Also, be really careful with the safety slide. It has a small spring that likes to fly out and get lost if you don't hold it down carefully when sliding it into or out of the compression tube.
Let us know if you need any other tips.
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Thanks Mark, I found a video at Pryamyd Air about the 124 and it gives some pictures on how to dis-assemble the rifle. I used a bar clamp but it really didn't have enough adjustment. This rifle was "packed" with moly grease. The seal was shattered as I expected and I'm in the process of cleaning the cylinder now after I made a few tools to do it.
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Spring Compressor.......build one.......use it.
When starting to release the spring tension, use small tie wraps to hold the safety tang
in place as the action slides out of the reciever. One as soon as enough is exposed to hold the rear
most end of the tang/spring, release another 1" or so and then another for the forward end.
Putting these ties on for the reinstall is very helpful too.
A google search should turn up a link with pictures of the tie wrap placement, if I confused you.
Also Google FWB124 trigger, there is a very good tutorial out there...somewhere.
Here is a link to Calmark's 124 ProMac tune thread...It was very helpful to me.
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,24927.0.html (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,24927.0.html)
Love my 124 with Pro Mac kit, and Beeman/Williams peep. Pretty nice with Burris Mini 4x too.
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Congratulations from another FWB 124 owner ;D
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Welcome to the club.
I found these two URL's helpful when I installed my JM FWB 124 kit.
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild.html (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild.html)
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild_30.html (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2011/09/frank-bs-fwb-124-tear-down-and-rebuild_30.html)
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I would strongly suggest using wire or 'zip' ties when withdrawing the trigger group from the action. Also, it is of vital importance to keep the safety spring straight when putting the trigger group essmbly back into the action. You may want to give the spring a good 'pull' with a coupled of pairs of needle nose pliers to make sure the spring has enough tension. Hth's
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I've bookmarked the new suggestions as well and will review all when I get my kit. I ordered the Pro-Mac kit as I want as much fps as I can get. I know it's a little harder to cock with this kit but it won't be anywhere near my 34. I've got everything apart and cleaned and now I'm just waiting on the kit. I found a bar clamp at the hardware store than should be able to handle the spring just fine. Thanks for all the good advice.
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Lots of great suggestions here for getting your FWB 124 fixed and back in action. Like tjk mentioned, make sure to restrain your safety slide when installing or removing it. Rather than using zip ties, another option is to use a rubber band. I wrap one around several times and it keeps safety slides in place so the safety spring is squished flat and not able to unspring and fly someplace where it gets lost. Here's a picture from a recent endcap install on my UK Webley Patriot that has a similar sliding rear safety.
(http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/7305/patriotendcap.jpg)
Just take it nice and easy and don't force anything and your seal install should go fine. One last bit of warning is when putting the last screw in to hold the spring pressure back, make sure not to cross thread it. You need to have the hole from the endcap and on the compression tube in exact alignment. Just take it slow and steady. And double check alignment, even several times if needed, when putting in that last screw on the bottom. It's the screw in front of the trigger that takes a wrench to unscrew.
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And WATCH that fragile trigger !!
The real stinker in working on these rifles is the trigger that just hangs out there in the breeze once actions out of the stock :P
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I've read about using "wire" or "zip ties" to hold the safety & spring in place before compressing the end cap assembly back into place. But I must admit that I didn't need anything but just my fingers to hold the safety & Spring in place while guiding the end cap back - then it was just making sure that the threaded hole is properly aligned so that you can finger tighten the "lug" and then use your wrench to snug it up tight. It takes longer to describe the procedure than to actually do it.