GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Hatsan Airguns => Topic started by: mst3kpimp on September 08, 2012, 02:54:17 PM
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(http://images58.fotki.com/v447/photos/9/1793119/11052159/gunsmall-vi.jpg)
I've been having a lot of fun with the .177 version of this pistol but did have a couple setbacks, here are some repair tips someone might use.
STUCK LATCHES/TRIGGER LUBE
After about 100 shots the gun would not engage when I cocked and the barrel would just spring back.
(http://images61.fotki.com/v666/photos/9/1793119/11052159/backlatchsmall-vi.jpg)
The latch can be seen in the the back of the gun, what you do is while pressing the trigger just push the latch forward with a rod or small screwdriver.
(http://images61.fotki.com/v666/photos/9/1793119/11052159/latchclosedsmall-vi.jpg)
This pic shows the proper position of latches after firing, I noticed later this area was dry so I put some grease there and hundreds of shots later no problem. This was a blessing in disguise as the grease made my trigger pull smoother so I would recommend greasing regardless.
BROKE LATCH SPRING
After around 500 shots I cocked the barrel and when I pulled the trigger it wouldn't fire. It was definitely cocked so I pointed in a safe direction and while pulling the trigger I pushed the latch from the back and it fired. At home I opened it up & could see that the latch was loose. After taking two pins out I was able to release two latches that shared a spring which had broken. I replaced the spring with a lighter grade one from a vcr. With the latches re-joined I could not get them back inside so I had to remove the long latch that connects to the trigger, this has a small spring that must be in position inside of the frame when you reassemble "grease it to help make it stay in the hole".
(http://images16.fotki.com/v388/photos/9/1793119/11052159/brokenspringsmall-vi.jpg)
"This pic shows latches outside of frame in the general position they should be in." I also had to remove the sliding safety latch held by two pins/e-clips, there will be a small ball bearing and spring under it "lost the spring and made another out of a bic lighter which actually made sliding easier". Getting this together again the first time was tricky, you have to leave the pins out and tilt the spring joined latches downward while carefully sliding in the long latch into position under the little spring, you'll know you got it right when you feel the spring when you press on it. I haven't had a problem since and the new spring seems to be holding up.
STRIPPED SCREWS
During a reassembly one of the two side screws was not taking and a closer look confirmed the stripped threads, the other looked on it's way out.
(http://images58.fotki.com/v450/photos/9/1793119/11052159/strippedscrewsmall-vi.jpg)
A trip to Loewes to get the replacement M5 .80x10 screws and I was back in business. You really have to loc-tite these in and check for looseness now and then.
(http://images12.fotki.com/v540/photos/9/1793119/11052159/guiderailsmall-vi.jpg)
The small screw inside the gun with the plastic bushing was very loose and I've read about this actually coming off and causing problems so I strongly recommend you loctite this asap.
RANDOM
I found the rear sight could slide a bit if pressured so I unscrewed it and put a piece of tape over the two holes to reduce play. The loading port is narrow so unless you like seating each shot your limited to smaller skirt pellets like Crosman and H&N but these perform very well, I'm using cheap crosman destroyers with great results. Once sighted in I was picking off soup cans from 70 feet or more with just the fiber optic sights which are quite nice. While challenging to cock at first, after about 150 shots it started to break in and it's quite manageable now. I'm a lefty but Hatsan informed me that grips are not avalible yet so I had to file mine down for an ambidextrous feel. Problems aside this gun is a great value for the money offering power, accuracy and coolness in one package.
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I have the same problem for Hatsan mod 25,
But this topic was posted too long time, All Photos link has expired
Can you help to upload again? I will very Thank you for your help.
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ok which problem was? i'll have to try and find the photos.
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That screw you are talking about with plastic bushing mine is rock solid but it was out the other side just a tad and found out it was making the grinding noise and rough cocking also so I just grinded mine flush and smooth it out with a polishing wheel then lubed it.
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This spring is broken, then I fix it(photo is from the google)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/10880099166_159fb478a1_o.jpg)
Then I do not know how to set these two parts to correct position?
If possible, please provide some reference set photos for me.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3831/10880064025_4f2d5414e0_o.jpg)
Now my mod 25 Unable cocking, Piston not loaded
If Barrel try to cocking will Stuck Unable cocking.
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yes getting those two joined latches back in is a pain, you have to unhook the spring and put the bottom latch in first then work in the second latch and hook the spring on and put the pins back in to hold them in, the picture shows the correct position of the latches to aid you. just take your time, make sure that little spring is in place on he top long latch.
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This is my set's photo
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5500/10880877444_14ea13e8da_o.jpg)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5492/10880876774_82ec894f5a_o.jpg)
I try not on Handle still can Cocking
but if I have set on handle cannot be cocking
why have this difference?
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Yes~~~~!!!!
I found the problem~~~
Looking this photo, the push pin will stuck on right hand screw
So just do not lock to deep for this right hand screw,
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5536/10880963976_6343a30bfb_o.jpg)
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Here are some removed photos a member requested.
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You are the MAN!
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On the cocking arm there is a short 3mm screw with a roller that can back out causing havoc make sure that get loctite. I replaced with about a 10mm long long screw, just long enough to screw in but let roller move. My cocking arm bent eventually and I hammered it back but also removed a couple coils from the spring to reduce cocking stress. ended up being a lot nicer to cock and shoot.
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Well..... thanks to a kind gentleman, a forum member named mst3kpimp, I was able to disassemble my new SuperTACT QE in . 22 (without using a spring compressor or otherwise releasing tension on the mainspring, I might add) and disassemble my entire trigger assembly, buff and polish the contact points on each of my sears, properly regrease the trigger assembly and reinstall and reassemble the gun!
Additionally, I got several photos of the work I just completed and we'll try to get them uploaded to this thread relatively soon in the next day or two if possible for everyone's reference.
With all that said, my problem was not a broken sear spring as I had suspected. I believe, at least, that my problem was caused by a malformed sear contact surface which was causing it to hang up during the cocking and decocking sequence (specifically sear one and sear two).
Normally my problem manifested itself during either rapid fire shooting or after having fired over 10 shots.... Sometimes only after 20 shots or so but it would always come back - it would shoot okay, and then the problem would come back.
I successfully fired about 25 pellets through it in rapid fire fashion doing all the things that I used to do which would cause it to not reset the trigger and I'm happy to say that I had zero issues and the trigger is quite a bit nicer now as well
Thanks again for the help, all!
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WOW, this is so serendipitous !!! I was JUST looking up how to fix my trigger on the MOD 25 Supertact when this email alert came in. Talking about Clockwork Angels !!! (Got to throw in a RUSH reference !)
Thanks. I'll try to make sense of it with my reptilian brain. - Mike