GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Weihrauch Airguns => Topic started by: jdub on July 22, 2012, 08:41:46 PM
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Hi,
I've scoped my HW30S and removed the iron sights and would like to put some kind of muzzle brake on it to cover the dovetails on the end of the barrel. Is there an inexpensive brake out there that would work without requiring the removal of the existing dovetails?
Thanks in advance!
Jerry
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yep! Straight Shooters sells a Beeman Universal muzzle break for about $50 :P
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Mark is probably talking about this one:
http://www.straightshooters.com/ss-muzzlebrake.html (http://www.straightshooters.com/ss-muzzlebrake.html)
Looks like a really nice muzzle brake too!
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While the SS brake will work it is too big for a 15 mm barrel. The proportions are off and it will look silly. I have both brake and 30S so I speak the truth.
Get a JM brake and use some heat shrink tubing to shim it. This is what I did with my 50S which has the same 15mm barrel and I did not have to file the dovetails.
http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/1205004/692734.htm (http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/1205004/692734.htm)
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While the SS brake will work it is too big for a 15 mm barrel. The proportions are off and it will look silly. I have both brake and 30S so I speak the truth.
Get a JM brake and use some heat shrink tubing to shim it. This is what I did with my 50S which has the same 15mm barrel and I did not have to file the dovetails.
http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/1205004/692734.htm (http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/1205004/692734.htm)
Thank you all for the replies! Jim, did the JM brake require you to file the existing dovetail grooves on your 50S? It sounds like it might be just what I'm looking for. Thanks again!
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No I did not have to file the dovetails. I used about 2" of heat shrink to shim the end and protect the barrel from the grub screws. Snug and solid.
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No I did not have to file the dovetails. I used about 2" of heat shrink to shim the end and protect the barrel from the grub screws. Snug and solid.
Perfect! I'll order one now.
Appreciate the help!
Jerry
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It mounts using grub screws. That means your barrel will take a beating right at the connection point. If one uses the brake as a handle for cocking or really for any purpose the grub screws will be constantly working deeper into the barrel.
I am curious however: What does a muzzle brake do for an air gun? I know what a good brake does on a Barrett light fifty. But an air gun?
What's the deal?
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It mounts using grub screws. That means your barrel will take a beating right at the connection point. If one uses the brake as a handle for cocking or really for any purpose the grub screws will be constantly working deeper into the barrel.
I am curious however: What does a muzzle brake do for an air gun? I know what a good brake does on a Barrett light fifty. But an air gun?
What's the deal?
I want one for two reasons !) to cover up the dovetails cut in the top of the barrel to mount the front sight, which make it mildly uncomfortable to grip while cocking, and 2) to protect the crown.
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There is a thread on NZAirgunners.com that deals with the topic in a DIY fashion that has just recently been running. May be worth a look.
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PS. I would be surprised if a Weihrauch actually needs one. I would not consider it for my HW 95.
If you just want to cover the dovetail then wrap a wide piece of builders tape longitudinally around the barrel then a layer of heat shrink over that. The tape prevents the heat shrink from slipping on the smooth barrel when it cools and settles down.
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There is a thread on NZAirgunners.com that deals with the topic in a DIY fashion that has just recently been running. May be worth a look.
Very cool thread--thanks for the mention! There are some lovely pieces of work displayed as well. Favorite post: "What I do know is that mucking around is lots of fun.". That pretty much says it all for a lot of us. It's as much fun to tinker with airguns as it is to shoot them.
In my case, with this very mild HW30S, I'm certainly not concerned about reducing the report or muzzle flip ;D I just want something comfortable to hold onto. Oh yeah, and I want it to look nice.
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....I'm certainly not concerned about reducing the report or muzzle flip ;D....
What report and what muzzle flip?! ;D ;D ;D ;D
That got me laughing too! ;D
I think an R7 recoils about as much as the 1377.
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I think an R7 recoils about as much as the 1377.
I beg to differ. In my experience the 1377 is like a 44 magnum compared to the R7, which is closer to a bull-barreled Ruger 10/22 shooting sub-sonic ammo ;)
The thread that Novagun linked to seemed to be primarily concerned with muzzle flip and noise. That's why I brought it up and said I was not concerned about either. Didn't want you all to think I was having problems controlling the recoil of my beastly HW30S while wearing ear muffs over ear plugs because of the report ;D
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Funny thing is that some people actually complain about the recoil of an R7. ;D
I should've said the R7 recoils about as much as a Diana 6G pistol.
And yes, that's a recoilless pistol. ;D
Be careful shooting that thing, ear protection is a must! ;D
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Funny thing is that some people actually complain about the recoil of an R7. ;D
I guess if you're used to the lack of movement in something like a 10lb 10 meter air rifle then you might notice movement from an R7 although recoil sounds like too strong a word--maybe "wiggle"? ;D
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YES!!!
"Wiggle" that's it, man - you hit the nail on the head ;D
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Hello all you Americans.
Our delving into the lumps on the end of a barrel really have nothing to do with noise. I want to hear it go bang.
Muzzle flip is real and does occur on nominal 1000fps air guns and probably lesser powered rifles. Since adding weights in my experiments, the groups have tightened up considerably. Especially for a fairly ordinary shooter. You can't defeat the physics. Bang barrel are on the end and it will flex. The degree just depends on how hard you bang it. An HW 30 or Daisy 953 not much flex.
I am at the moment playing around with the overlarge factory brake fitted to a Diana 34 Compact. I have had it off for a good while because I was not happy with the way it functioned and never very pleased with accuracy. The main problem is its design. It is a long tube that you can see in NZAirgunners forum photo.
The internal diameter is machined out for most of its length to 23 mms. The last 70mms is machined to be a glove fit over the 16mm barrel and it is secured on the inboard end with two 4mm grub screws that have beem machine down fine on the point to enter a couple of locating holes. Not stout enough. There is about 150 to 200 mms unsupported tube over the barrel. The muzzle itself is cut of square and the crown is part of a screw in end cap. The inner side of the cap has a recess machine to keep the brake centred.
In the never humble opinion of an amateur mucker abouter that is unsatisfactory The screws come undone after about ten shots and the whole lot flops about. Locktite for the screws you might say: I don't like the material after using it on the flywheel of a diesel engine. The air rifle has a fault that that should not be there. It is after all a Diana.
The remedy:I have turned up a rubber plug out of a door stop that fits around the muzzle and inside the front of the break. The threaded cap pushes the rubber firmly -in and centres every thing. The rubber keeps pressure on the thread and it will not come undone. I still have the grub screws but held in with Araldite. I expect that to fail soon and I will get some 4mm cap screws and set them down in neoprene washers. They will not come undone. Maybe two grub screws with one on top to lock the other.
So far results are encouraging, good tight groups, but the rifle needs resighting.
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Hello all you Americans.
Our delving into the lumps on the end of a barrel really have nothing to do with noise. I want to hear it go bang.
Muzzle flip is real and does occur on nominal 1000fps air guns and probably lesser powered rifles. Since adding weights in my experiments, the groups have tightened up considerably. Especially for a fairly ordinary shooter. You can't defeat the physics. Bang barrel are on the end and it will flex. The degree just depends on how hard you bang it. An HW 30 or Daisy 953 not much flex.
I am at the moment playing around with the overlarge factory brake fitted to a Diana 34 Compact. I have had it off for a good while because I was not happy with the way it functioned and never very pleased with accuracy. The main problem is its design. It is a long tube that you can see in NZAirgunners forum photo.
The internal diameter is machined out for most of its length to 23 mms. The last 70mms is machined to be a glove fit over the 16mm barrel and it is secured on the inboard end with two 4mm grub screws that have beem machine down fine on the point to enter a couple of locating holes. Not stout enough. There is about 150 to 200 mms unsupported tube over the barrel. The muzzle itself is cut of square and the crown is part of a screw in end cap. The inner side of the cap has a recess machine to keep the brake centred.
In the never humble opinion of an amateur mucker abouter that is unsatisfactory The screws come undone after about ten shots and the whole lot flops about. Locktite for the screws you might say: I don't like the material after using it on the flywheel of a diesel engine. The air rifle has a fault that that should not be there. It is after all a Diana.
The remedy:I have turned up a rubber plug out of a door stop that fits around the muzzle and inside the front of the break. The threaded cap pushes the rubber firmly -in and centres every thing. The rubber keeps pressure on the thread and it will not come undone. I still have the grub screws but held in with Araldite. I expect that to fail soon and I will get some 4mm cap screws and set them down in neoprene washers. They will not come undone. Maybe two grub screws with one on top to lock the other.
So far results are encouraging, good tight groups, but the rifle needs resighting.
Thanks for all the great info! My mistake in thinking some of the stuff in that thread pertained to noise reduction. I jumped to conclusions after seeing one or two of those nifty devices with air strippers and what looked like baffles.
I realize that a lump of weight on the end of even my HW30 barrel would alter the physics slightly--I just haven't chosen to go there. In my case it would be like putting my 240lb aging body on a 16lb road bike and then paying an extra $100 to shave 40 grams from the weight of the saddle. True that those 40 grams will impact my performance but the money could make a bigger improvement elsewhere and my performance would be better served by giving up pizza and diet coke ;D In other words my skill with an air rifle is not even approaching the level where I would notice the difference made by a brake or weight.
Having said all that I'm still fascinated by this stuff and by those of you skilled enough not only to create these bits and pieces but also to recognize how they alter your shooting performance. Cool stuff! Your rubber sleeve idea is one that could prove useful in my situation as well only in my case it might allow a brake to be secured without marring the barrel.
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My experience with the factory large heavy RWS POR COMPAC BRAKE is good. I have 4 of them and I have had the issues that you described. One fix is to LT your set screws and then with end cap off drop a drop or 2 from the muzzle end between the barrel and the brake. I t does not take but a drop. LET THIS SIT OVER NIGHT AND IT WILL NOT GO ANYWHERE EVEN WITH THE SUPER SPRINGS. The other is to do what you said with the rubber. I set the brake and then use the rubber insert as you and then tighten the end cap to make contact with the barrel. You have to ply with the thickness for a good fit. You can put Teflon tape on the endcap as well.
I have play with the brakes on other guns and the brake will affect the way the gun shoots. Some guns like and some don't. I have the Hatsan 135 and yes I chopped the barrel down to 10 " and put one of these brakes on it. I let the brake hang over about 3 " and the gun shoots great. The reason I did the hang over was the 10" barrel with the brake was odd looking and the gun did shoot better . I also have one of the brakes that PA sells that is 5" long and it works good on many guns. I tried it on the chopped 135 and it worked great but I like the looks of the large brake and the accuracy was the same. You just got to play with the brakes and brakes are not for everone.
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Hello Whitefang.
I missed your post when it first appeared but in the interim discovered the wisdom of your words.
I have discarded the bronze brake from my CFX principally because I could not stop it moving without resorting to drilling and tapping. I did not do that for fear of it introducing its own side effects. However I did discard also the plastic spring loaded cocking lever latch because it had sufficient play in it to vibrate. That has been replaced with a tight plastic sleeve with no movement at all. Must be better having nothing vibrating at the muzzle.
Takes a while to learn about airguns!!
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I recently came across a Beeman Universal Muzzle Brake on the yellow for $25 without the shims. I turned a very snug Delrin shim about an inch long, slipped it on the barrel and then installed the brake. Looks good. Very similar in size to a stock R7 brake as you can see from the photos. I haven't tried shooting with it yet to see if it effects POI so that could still be an issue but overall I'm pretty pleased--especially for the price.
(Universal on top--R7 on bottom)
(edited 1/9/17 to remove broken links)
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I am curious however: What does a muzzle brake do for an air gun? I know what a good brake does on a Barrett light fifty. But an air gun?
What's the deal?
Barrel or muzzle breaks are meant to give us a better and more comfortable grip/handle for opening a break-barrel rifle and cocking it. It also serves to keep our sweaty/dirty hands from setting up corrosion and wear of the barrel's surface and bluing. It protects the crown of the barrel from damaging accidental impact. It also can provide a good stabilizing effect on the barrel when the rifle is fired.
For a good example of stabilization, when I first started using my Venoms, I grew to hate the cheap rubbery plastic breaks that came with them. I had a Remington Summit that was deadly accurate with its metal break. I liked the looks of it and tried it out on one of the Venoms (they have the same size barrel). To my surprise, the accuracy and repeatability of the Venom immediately improved. I immediately ordered 2 of the Summit breaks from Crosman and after putting them on both Venoms, they were both shooting with better accuracy and repeatability.
As a test, I fired a few groups with the Summit with no break installed and then with the break reinstalled and, sure enough, the break increased accuracy and repeatability.
I don't know if this is a product of improved harmonics or just simple stabilization but IT WORKS and I couldn't be happier.