GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Collier on July 07, 2012, 09:21:37 AM
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Sorry for another Sheridan rear sight question. Read a few places that the way the rear sight wedges between the barrel and air tube can cause separation of the barrel. I can see this on my 1979 Blue Streak, it is separated in a span of about 2.5". Is this a serious problem, or can I leave it go? Gun seems to shoot OK, not great but OK. Will the Crosman service centers re-solder the barrel in place?
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hey-Hey!!!,
I can't imagine Crosman fixing an old Sheridan that has broken that way. I can see re-soldering it myself. Rosin flux is available on ebay, and Eutectic 63% Tin/37% Lead solder melts at quite asfe temperature for brass. You could probably get away with the Silver Brearing solder( ~1.5% Silver ) and not overheat anything. I can see some care required...:) but likely so can you.
Cleaning and preparation will be critical; get all the old bluing off and have cleaned brass available to wet new solder and it should be fine.
cheers,
Douglas
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Is the "bluing" a type of paint or something else?
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Barrel separation is a very bad thing. As I understand, this is not easily repaired. Also, refinishing the factory finish at the repair site is hit or miss. I read some posts on the Crosman Airgun Forum (The Green) about folks who have had some degree of success making repairs. Do some more research and let us know what you decide to do.
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Is the "bluing" a type of paint or something else?
I will vote for, 'something else'...which ov course tells you absolutely nothing I am afraid. I have no experience repairing Sheridan barrel eparation, but I do have a moderate amount of soldering and brazing experience. The question I have for you is, is a Brass Streak a deal breaker for you? I think you can adequately clean up that joint with a fine wire wheel and a drill. Follow up with brake cleaner to de-grease and flux the heck out of it. Warm it slowly with propane( not MAPP; propane is cooler ). Seriously, a 1 Lb roll of Kester 63/37 with 44 Flux ought to do just fine. It may be that they used harder solder; the now-unavailable Radio Shack 97% Tin/3% Copper is a bit harder and slightly higher melting. I bet with a WTB post on one of the Tube Electronics forums like Audio Karma would net you some...:)
It is unfortunately pretty much a killer; it will either be fixed or abandoned. See? Nothing to lose....:) You'll need to completely strip the action, and special tools are needed. IIRC the valve tool is like $15 or so...look for it.
You can do it!
cheers,
Douglas
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Gotta be more careful, I guess. Thought I got a good deal on GB.
Anywho...
Google seached and turned up all kinds of conflicting info. As some guys said, after I took off the rear barrel sight, the gap closed right down. I personally don't see how that could totally wreck accuracy. If so, how can you switch barrels in the 13xx series pistols and shoot lights out? Hard to comprehend that a fixed barrel gun like this, with no hold sensitivity, can't out shoot a break barrel springer. Just the peep and front blade for me is kinda like throwing rocks. It is not too bad if I have my target on a round paper plate, otherwise??? Gonna try intermounts and different pellets. Maybe it just doesn't like the Benjamin pellets? Could send it to Mac 1 for a repair, but have to see some consistency first. I am not going to try and sell this one to someone else. Probably just keep it around as a reminder of some sort. If it sits around long enough, maybe I try the solder.
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Try some JSB Exact, all but one of my 5mm's love that pellet( the D34 ). I'd not send that one for any further work...get a laser shooter and *THEN* ship it to Tim...:) If you look around you can find a replacement action for $90...
cheers,
Douglas
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I would like to thank Douglas (Pak Protector) for all the help, both in this thread, and via e-mail.
You are certainly a great credit to this forum.
Sorry I sometimes post when I am frustrated. The advice on here is very good. Will try to make the best of this gun. Simply don't have the resources to try another any time soon.
Thanks again.
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I bought a brand new Sheridan in '74 and if I knew what I know now I would have pulled the rear sights off when new. Yes one day 3-4 years ago I noticed a little barrel seperation under the site. When looking into the light you could see it. When I removed the sight it closed up and that's the way it's been ever since.
Only difference was I had to resight it in and using JSB's it drives tacks. Unless I pointed it out no one would know except me. And most people coundn't even see it if pointed out. It has not gotten any worse over the years and don't expect it too.
If I ever got to the point it bothered me, some JB Weld applied with my finger and a little touch up and you would never know.
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As you can tell from some of my posts, I have been frustrated by this gun since it arrived. Accuracy was very inconsistent, and I could not figure out why. The barrel separation thing kinda got the best of me when I thought it was not only the cause of the inconsistency, but also a reason why I could not sell the gun and try another. Today, it dawned on me that I had never cleaned the gun since it arrived. Having read the thread on brass barrel maintenance, I thought it was not really necessary to worry about it. I made a weedeater line/patch and was shocked to see how dirty the first patch was. It actually took 30 patches before it was finally clean. The first group after cleaning (with the peep and front blade sight) was actually smaller than I normally can shoot with my Titan and 4x scope. I am hopeful that the gun will be fine, and can become what I thought I was buying in the first place. Feeling a bit mentally challenged for my neglect, but much better the way it shoots now.