GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: microsalmo on June 24, 2012, 10:05:38 PM
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I couldn't resist the allure of this little rifle. For $60, it sure does offer a lot of accuracy and spunk. Mine arrived from Walmart a few weeks ago. It shot well enough out of the box, but the crown looked pretty rough, and the trigger was really rough. I took it apart, and performed the old brass wood screw in a cordless screw driver bit. As a lapping compound, I used JB Non Embeding Bore Cleaner. I used the same cleaner on the barrel, and made 20 passes through it with a bronze brush. All I did on the inside was clean things up, smooth up the trigger group a bit, and apply some lube. The "compression cup" got a drop of 30w silicone oil. And of course professional grade plumber's tape was wrapped around the breech end of the barrel, where it inserts into the breech housing, as well as on the muzzle end where it fits into the barrel shroud.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/xq9p9w.jpg)
(http://i50.tinypic.com/t6dyds.jpg)
I put about 20 types of pellet through it, and it seems that 6-7 fpe is the spread... with most everything being in the 6.5 fpe range. Some of the pellets were very accurate too. As long as the major gun pieces did their part, and didn't move around to much.
Here are some interesting chrony results:
(http://i46.tinypic.com/2nleble.jpg)
(http://i48.tinypic.com/2j4ecug.jpg)
(http://i47.tinypic.com/65sx8w.jpg)
(http://i46.tinypic.com/4v1jj8.jpg)
(http://i49.tinypic.com/1z3s7bm.jpg)
(http://i46.tinypic.com/287gdux.jpg)
(http://i45.tinypic.com/2ldhelw.jpg)
With Tropical Storm Debby in town, I couldn't get outside for some long range testing. But the 30' indoor stuff looked pressy impressive. Out of the 15 or so pellets I tested, the only ones that didn't shoot inside of a dime were the Crosman ones - go figure. Most everything else was pretty accurate. Here are the super stars of the session. These are 5 shot groups, rested.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/4tsuhh.jpg)
(http://i46.tinypic.com/24g80uo.jpg)
(http://i50.tinypic.com/2z4ke9k.jpg)
(http://i50.tinypic.com/25gtkd0.jpg)
(http://i50.tinypic.com/282m4nt.jpg)
Something interesting I observed. Anywhere from 4-10 pumps grouped the same at 30'. This was so across all the pellets I tested. Another observation I made was that everything moved when pumping. By that I mean - you could see the pump casing, barrel shroud, barrel band, and receiver all moving around a bit when pumping the gun. I believe any deviation in accuracy came from this. Other than that - this sucker shoots real straight!!
Enjoy ;D
Steve
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Pretty much my experience with my 2100B, except that it loves Crosman pellets. I'd love to hear more details about your tune-up. Plumbers tape tighted my groupings, but the grinding lurch on the trigger is too much for my offhand.
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The trigger still not worthy, lol. But it's a little better now. The tune up was pretty simple on this one. Once I noticed everything moving around, I decided that it wouldn't be worth it to spend a whole lot of time on the guts. All I did was wipe all the plastic interior pieces down with a microfiber towel with a little Remoil on it. Anything that was metal and rubbed together got some 400 grit wet sand paper followed by the felt dremel cone. For lube, I just used a dab of Superlube grease and any metal mating surfaces. The plumber's tape piece was pretty straight forward. I just wrapped it around the two barrel ends. The biggest power adder for this gun was to add a drop of silicone oil to the pump cup. That got be a half foot pound of energy across the board. Also the groups shrank by exactly half after the barrel scrub and recrown, so I don't know which one to give the credit.
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Nice writeup! I ordered a refurb AM77 off of one of the airgun websites a few weeks back. Looked through the manual tonight and noticed it said an fps of 495. That would seem like the Canadian manual. I don't know, I doubt I got a Canuck gun with the limitor here in the U.S., I hope not! :o
-guess I need a chrony eventually.
Is the plumbers tape to steady the barrel? I haven't bothered to open the gun up yet...
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It served two functions in this gun, To steady the barrel, and to plug up the area where the barrel fits into the breech. One look at it, and I became suspicious right away that air pressure could be lost there.
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... something I failed to mention. For $16.97 at Walmart, the Tasco 3-7x20 is totally awesome! Seriously, lol. Micro clicks and all.
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Nice write up on your 2100 . On the back of my 2100's barrel . It looked like it was cut most of the way and then just twisted off . Not even close to being flush on the breech end .
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microsalmo... that scope is good but it looses to a 4x32 in light gathering properties. I put a 4x32 (rws ) compact scope i had laying around and use that. It is zeroed at 20 yards and inside my yard it can hit any target with minimal adjustment. I always use 8 pumps and shoot meisterkulgen wadcutters or crosman target wadcutters... it is dead on accurate and consistent. By the way, for fun a put the scope from my FT rig (4-16x44) and actually got 1 inch or smaller groups out to 35 yards. then changing to 10.5 crosman domes i was able to knock down golfballs at 65 yards 9 out of 10 times... that is a very consistent gun. All shooting was done from a sandbag, and the wind was mild. My trigger has worn in to a very predictable 2 stage wannabe. I pull... it stops. I can hold it there while making adjustments, then pull a bit more and it breaks crisp and predictable... I know its not a 2 stage, but using it like that it feels like a very crude 2 stager..
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congrats on the new 2100!
nice write up!
i have an old coleman crosman 2100 with the metal piston. it shoots destroyer ex at 700fps and crow mags at 684fps
the open sights arent of any use, i put a rws 4x32 compact scope on mine now its a pester. always kept oiled it hasnt needed a rebuild yet
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2100/ Am77's are a blast .... You can also take the sights off and rotate the barrel shroud for a bull/clean look.
Super accurate with JSB 8.44.
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa347/NPetey/2100011.jpg)
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa347/NPetey/IMG_0986.jpg)
Happy Shootin!
Petey.
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that is awesome... i wonder if a Barrett muzzlebrake will fit...lol
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I have not tried that one yet. I keep those with my trail np because they shoot so well with it. But this 2100 loves the jsb monsters too. 480 fps baby!
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I tried the heavy jsb and the crosman UMs... they did ok, but the trajectory was very loopy. The heaviest pellet that i use on it is the RWS supermags (9.3 gr wadcutter). They are unbelievably devastating. In birds they cause large cavities, and in squirrels they totally unhinge them with a neck/headshot. Wadcutters within 30 yards are unreal for hunting small game.
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when i need to rebuild my old 2100 im going to these mods someone did on a 2200
if they work for the 2200 they will work for a 2100 ;)
http://www.network54.com/Realm/CFTech/FB2200.htm (http://www.network54.com/Realm/CFTech/FB2200.htm)
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when i need to rebuild my old 2100 im going to these mods someone did on a 2200
if they work for the 2200 they will work for a 2100 ;)
http://www.network54.com/Realm/CFTech/FB2200.htm (http://www.network54.com/Realm/CFTech/FB2200.htm)
Thanks. I read it over real well. But I found it to be vague on details of how to. Perhaps you can shed some light? For example, he never says how to get that little transfer port seal in and out? And that bit about cutting the breech in half. That could not have been more vague. He first shows cementing the barrel into the breech, and then he shows the barrel on the grinder with the breech missing? So I found it impossible to follow along. Perhaps you or someone else could translate in more detail??
Mine too leaks air. I can feel the puff of air come through the bb slot during the shot cycle, and that's after I worked on it a little. I would be willing to put in the work, but I need some better direction. Can you help?
Thanks.
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Great review and awesome gun! You did a fine job on it. Love the pics too! I almost forgot... I love that little Tasco scope, it looks really good on there.
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when i need to rebuild my old 2100 im going to these mods someone did on a 2200
if they work for the 2200 they will work for a 2100 ;)
http://www.network54.com/Realm/CFTech/FB2200.htm (http://www.network54.com/Realm/CFTech/FB2200.htm)
Thanks. I read it over real well. But I found it to be vague on details of how to. Perhaps you can shed some light? For example, he never says how to get that little transfer port seal in and out? And that bit about cutting the breech in half. That could not have been more vague. He first shows cementing the barrel into the breech, and then he shows the barrel on the grinder with the breech missing? So I found it impossible to follow along. Perhaps you or someone else could translate in more detail??
Mine too leaks air. I can feel the puff of air come through the bb slot during the shot cycle, and that's after I worked on it a little. I would be willing to put in the work, but I need some better direction. Can you help?
Thanks.
he doesnt say cut the breech in half.he says remove the barrel from the breech and cut off the the breech end of the barrel half way through the transfer port.when you cut through half the tp there should be another half of the tp still on the barrel.you the grind or use a lathe to remove the rest of the tp to make a true straight cut on the barrel,so now there is no transfer port left.now you have to make a new leade for the bolt to slide through.you dont want to make it to big or you did this work for nothing.then you have to drill a new tranfer port in the barrel.
on page one of the link its telling you how to seal the barrel to the breech,how to keep the valve from moving while pumping and to use a transfer port gasket bigger than stock if there is a gasket in the first place.
page 2 of the link is full on mod to seal up the breech and bolt.page 1 is basic mods
hth
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Ooooooh. That makes more sense. What the trick to replacing the seal in the valve area?
Thanks!
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I confess... I picked up a AM77 today too, such great reviews and it looks like a tinkerers dream come true. I can't wait to rip into it. I have found a lot of other posts on mods, but not much specifically on the trigger. Can anyone point me in the direction of some trigger mods for this one?
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Not much can be done with the trigger . Tear the gun down and slick up all contact points in the trigger and sear . Some have done a little file work on the sear and some have bent the trigger spring a bit . If you can find a way to take up some of the travel of the trigger , it helps .
Go get some shrink wrap . Also plumbers tape . I have put the plumbers tape around both ends of the barrel . Breech end to help seal the air from escaping around the barrel and muzzle end to stabilize the barrel in the front sight assembly .
The shrink wrap I have used around the transfer port to help seal the air from the valve to barrel flow .
More work to come .
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2100/ Am77's are a blast .... You can also take the sights off and rotate the barrel shroud for a bull/clean look.
Super accurate with JSB 8.44.
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa347/NPetey/2100011.jpg)
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa347/NPetey/IMG_0986.jpg)
Happy Shootin!
Petey.
Nice Group Pete!
I forget but since the subject was on trigger jobs, was it you that fixed and modded the sear on a 2200 last year? I was amazed at the "No Fear" approach to modding that gun...
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i thought that maybe instead of working the trigger to make it break quickly and smoothly, after the lube tune (lithium grease on contact points after polishing contact surfaces) i could drill and tap a small allen screw to the top of the trigger blade, where it has a straight face, and use the allen screw to make it stop earlier on the rest position, so it never sits fully open. that limits travel and is adjustable to put it as close to sear engagement as possible. It is a project i have been looking into finishing; then the trigger should be much better. at least theoretically.
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i thought that maybe instead of working the trigger to make it break quickly and smoothly, after the lube tune (lithium grease on contact points after polishing contact surfaces) i could drill and tap a small allen screw to the top of the trigger blade, where it has a straight face, and use the allen screw to make it stop earlier on the rest position, so it never sits fully open. that limits travel and is adjustable to put it as close to sear engagement as possible. It is a project i have been looking into finishing; then the trigger should be much better. at least theoretically.
Sounds good... I've seen similar done to 1377 triggers... If you got the skills, go for it... 8)
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i have no skills... lets hope balls and ingenuity suffice...lol
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i have no skills... lets hope balls and ingenuity suffice...lol
Sounds familiar!
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I just cracked my AM77 open because it seems to be leaking air when left pumped over night. Finally bought some real punches, so that was a big help. Got the valve out, and it looked good externally. I couldn't believe how small it was! I always thought it was bigger since it's more powerful than the the 1377/760 valve -but it's 2/3s the size. Upon disassembling the valve, I think I discovered part of the slow leak, the threads were very dry, slightly corroded, and it took a vice, rubber pads, and some pliers to get it apart. It wasn't too bad in the valve, but the inside Oring was pretty dry and discolored, so I think that was the problem. I oiled it up and then put silicone grease on the threads. Tomorrow I'm going to try to find some plumbers tape for stabilizing the muzzle and try to polish a few trigger/ sear contact points. From what I've read, these guns can be a little tricky to get back together.
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This is a great thread. I opened mine up today, stabilized the barrel both ends with plumbers tape, lubed and polished trigger, cut a coil of trigger spring. It shoots really well and consistently now and I'm pleased with the results - not bad for a $80 rifle. I haven't mounted the included 4x20 scope, instead I mounted a CenterPoint 4x32 scope.
How important is it to screw the valve in place, and does anyone have details for the AM77/CR2100, in particular where to drill exactly. Thanks all. I'm now a "pumper" 8) and I like it. I made a video of the innards opened up, it may help someone:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CRei4Y-AFs#ws (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2CRei4Y-AFs#ws)
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This might help some I've read somewhere can't remember were that the sear contact point push's the striker back a little when you pull the trigger. Hope this helps.
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So I had some problems putting the AM77 back together. After much trial and error with finesse to get all the pieces back in, I was still having issues with the trigger/ sear/ cocking peace/ hammer engagement.
I would get it so that it seemed to be working when I cocked it, pumped it, and fired it. Then I'd screw down the three screws on the back of the receiver side plate, and the trigger wouldn't move. They were too tight -I loosened them up some and I could again squeeze the trigger and have a functioning gun, but the trigger is about ten pounds. It shouldn't be because I polished some contact points and greased it though. Also, when I pull the trigger after firing a shot, the trigger does not return upwards -it only returns to the unfired position again after I cock the bolt. Something seems off with the way I put it back together, I need some advice on what I did wrong, and any pictures would be great.
I was using this to help a bit.
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/resealing-crosman-2100-part-2.html (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/resealing-crosman-2100-part-2.html)
?? Help :-\
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So I had some problems putting the AM77 back together. After much trial and error with finesse to get all the pieces back in, I was still having issues with the trigger/ sear/ cocking peace/ hammer engagement.
I would get it so that it seemed to be working when I cocked it, pumped it, and fired it. Then I'd screw down the three screws on the back of the receiver side plate, and the trigger wouldn't move. They were too tight -I loosened them up some and I could again squeeze the trigger and have a functioning gun, but the trigger is about ten pounds. It shouldn't be because I polished some contact points and greased it though. Also, when I pull the trigger after firing a shot, the trigger does not return upwards -it only returns to the unfired position again after I cock the bolt. Something seems off with the way I put it back together, I need some advice on what I did wrong, and any pictures would be great.
I was using this to help a bit.
http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/resealing-crosman-2100-part-2.html (http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2009/02/resealing-crosman-2100-part-2.html)
?? Help :-\
Problem solved. I found another site with some pics on how to take it apart from the other side. When I took the other reciever plate off I could better see what the trigger group was doing. After some TLC, plumbers tape, grease, and valve work, the gun is perfect now.
http://www.airgunone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4454 (http://www.airgunone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4454)
^another breakdown, have to log in and register to see pics
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i was just about to ask if its apita to open one of these guns up
long ago i opened one up but that was to butcher it for a conversion project.it wasnt going back to the stock form
does anyone have any pics of the plumber tape mod?
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i was just about to ask if its apita to open one of these guns up
long ago i opened one up but that was to butcher it for a conversion project.it wasnt going back to the stock form
does anyone have any pics of the plumber tape mod?
I don't have any pics, but I just tightly wrapped a couple thin layers around the outside of the barrel about a centimeter from the muzzle to stabilize it in the shroud. It was actually a pretty tight fit getting the barrel back down the shroud, so I know it's pretty good and secure. Then I just crammed a couple small pieces around the transfer port because I think someone said a small bit of air might escape there.
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someone should do a youtube video on this...... ::)
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A Crosman legacy that has lived on.
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Best thing you can do is stabilize the barrel...polish up the trigger...put a lighter spring in it.Remove the interlock 766-017 on the parts diagram. You don't need it. it's only there so you cant' pull the trigger with the breech open. if you remove it , you will be able to de-cock the AG. Seal the breech end of the barrel . and call it a day. And if you have it apart .... take a pair of pliers and move the tip of the bolt forward till you can see light through the two holes in the bolt.This can also be done without dis-assembly by using needle nose pliers and wedging it forward very carefully ..small steps. seats the pellet right where it should be.
The rest is bunk and you will never get any tremendous gains. Accuracy is king here and the 2100/Am77 can deliver.
Happy Shootin to all!
Petey.
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bunk or not, the gunsmith at cobra's owns a 2100 that will propel 10.5 gr pellets at over 800 fps... i wish mine shot like that. he has used it for raccoon control...
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I understand ....but on this gun that type of FPS takes more effort than it's worth...To Me.
By all means, Please Mod away .. I love to see what people come up with.
Happy shootin to ya!
Petey.
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bunk or not, the gunsmith at cobra's owns a 2100 that will propel 10.5 gr pellets at over 800 fps... i wish mine shot like that. he has used it for raccoon control...
nice!
i want to put a m417 barrel on mine.maybe that will make it more accurate
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I noticed on my 2100 that the probe at the end of the bolt is half the length of the probe on the 2200 bolt . Today I read Petey has found a good way to set the probe length where it should be . Now I don't have to experiment with other ways to do the same thing . Thanks Petey
One other thing is to shorten up the 2 screws for the rear sight if they are pushing down on the barrel . When I took apart one of my 21 or 2200's . I found 2 gouges on the barrel from the screws . One gouge is deep , not just a scratch .
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Today I read Petey has found a good way to set the probe length where it should be . Now I don't have to experiment with other ways to do the same thing . Thanks Petey
Can you post dimensions and maybe a photo... how far should the metal stick out of the plastic?
One other thing is to shorten up the 2 screws for the rear sight if they are pushing down on the barrel . When I took apart one of my 21 or 2200's . I found 2 gouges on the barrel from the screws . One gouge is deep , not just a scratch .
Found the same thing with mine, although more scratch than gouge. I just shimmed the top of the screws with brass washers because I didn't have access to a grinder (in retrospect I could have dremeled the screws....) Anyhow, the screws did touch the inner "barrel".
I have now done the trigger sear grind mod, clipped the sear spring, bent the clothes pin trigger spring and now the pull is much shorter and lighter but it's still a brute. Anyhow, I am shooting 1/2" groups with it at 20m, it's on target (2" circle) at 30 yards, and 7/10 at 500 ml pop bottle at 60 yds. This is an impressive rifle!
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This is an impressive rifle! lol. i love it. there are some purist rocking back and forth while craddling their FWBs or Steyrs, and here we are, a bunch of overgrown kids praising a left over of our youth... priceless. I love this forum! so nice to know people can appreciate airgunning at all levels...
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Did some shooting with the AM77 this afternoon. That thing is scary accurate at 10 yards. Don't mind the flyers and off shots on the target, I was sighting in a and shooting other guns. But the AM77, it was walking around those little shoot and see targets with direct hits no problem, cphp's. Benched of course, because the trigger isn't the best. (edit- should have added, this is with the little 4x 20 Crosman scope that came with it, fine enough crosshairs and holds zero.)
(http://i932.photobucket.com/albums/ad166/Sinfjotli/Random%20stuff/P7060005.jpg)
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Thanks for developing this thread guys. I learned a lot from all your input. I took what a learned here, implemented a little of my own thinking, and would up with some excellent results. I was successful in picking up some average velocity as I finally broke the 7 fps mark. But more important in my mind, a lot of consistency from shot to shot was gained. You can compare the below with the information on page 1, but the blurb at the header of each photo sums it up.
Standard deviation dropped from 9.38 fps to 2.44 fps, velocity stayed the same.
(http://i45.tinypic.com/dxg1tg.jpg)
Standard deviation dropped from 7.54 fps to 3.16 fps, average velocity increased by 5 fps.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/2dvija0.jpg)
Standard deviation dropped from 6.16 fps to 2.23 fps, average velocity increased by 21 fps.
(http://i47.tinypic.com/2uenpg5.jpg)
Standard deviation dropped from 3 fps to 2 fps, average velocity increased by 2 fps.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/1j0opd.jpg)
Standard deviation dropped from 5.74 fps to 2.23 fps, average velocity increased by 2 fps.
(http://i50.tinypic.com/1zwzvgy.jpg)
Standard deviation dropped from 3.46 fps to 2.62 fps, average velocity increased by 10 fps.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/5042fm.jpg)
And just for fun, here were a few extra I tested... check out the fpe on those Baracuda Matches & standard deviation on those Polymags...
(http://i47.tinypic.com/20u6782.jpg)
(http://i47.tinypic.com/9asns7.jpg)
(http://i48.tinypic.com/6emcyd.jpg)
So what did all this mean to accuracy? See the below groups of 5 at 30' to target... :o
(http://i49.tinypic.com/2igg782.jpg)
(http://i45.tinypic.com/vzhi6t.jpg)
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For those considering breaking in, it's not that bad. Hare are some photographs of the guts.
... as you pry the lid off.
(http://i49.tinypic.com/vxd74p.jpg)
... as you pry the lid off, and slide the barrel shroud off.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/6p8g13.jpg)
... the relationship of the trigger parts and valve parts.
(http://i46.tinypic.com/r79nyh.jpg)
... bolt, breech, barrel.
(http://i48.tinypic.com/1ymmgl.jpg)
... gutted.
(http://i45.tinypic.com/1478qu.jpg)
... muzzle polished flat, and recrowned.
(http://i50.tinypic.com/24ymi47.jpg)
... rifling polished clean with JB Bore Paste.
(http://i49.tinypic.com/343gihj.jpg)
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Hey micro great info and pics! This will be very useful if I ever need to get into mine. Thanks again for posting this.
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No problem Bigern.
Anyone else have similar results getting the consistancy so refined? I'm curious to know your results.
Thanks.
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You guys are making me think I really need to get one of these someday if I can get a deal on one. Looks like they are impressively accurate if set up correctly.
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a great deal??? like a 65 dollar rifle that allows that kind of consistency and is tuner friendly is not a great deal already... Haven't you noticed that there arent any 2100 for sale on the classifieds? Dude, go plunk your hard earned cash because for less than 70 bucks you get a rifle that kind mix it up with the best of the pump ups...
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a great deal??? like a 65 dollar rifle that allows that kind of consistency and is tuner friendly is not a great deal already... Haven't you noticed that there arent any 2100 for sale on the classifieds? Dude, go plunk your hard earned cash because for less than 70 bucks you get a rifle that kind mix it up with the best of the pump ups...
I get what you are saying. Just got a Sheridan Blue Streak. Need to play with that one for a while first. 2 sons in college, so my airgun budget is not quite what some on here seem to have.
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a great deal??? like a 65 dollar rifle that allows that kind of consistency and is tuner friendly is not a great deal already... Haven't you noticed that there arent any 2100 for sale on the classifieds? Dude, go plunk your hard earned cash because for less than 70 bucks you get a rifle that kind mix it up with the best of the pump ups...
I get what you are saying. Just got a Sheridan Blue Streak. Need to play with that one for a while first. 2 sons in college, so my airgun budget is not quite what some on here seem to have.
I hear ya, I'm on a tight budget after college. :D But it's ok, you'll get one because airguns are like potato chips -you can't stop with just one. Or five. And they're usually cheaper than powder burners.
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bunk or not, the gunsmith at cobra's owns a 2100 that will propel 10.5 gr pellets at over 800 fps... i wish mine shot like that. he has used it for raccoon control...
That's impressive! On how many pumps?
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This is a great thread. I can't wait to mod my 2100. There are too many modding projects ahead of it.
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The monster 2100 shoots those velocities on 14 pumps. It was given to him many years ago by his dad, and a raccoon problem (is there such thing??? lol) made him start to modify those and 1377 pistols. But the 2100 caught my eye as he seem to regard it more as a tool than a airgun... He would use it as a point of comparison in many airgun related talks. I did not believe it existed so one day he brought it into the shop. It even had a LDC for it since his raccoon problems were at night... Not very interested on how it would compare to other guns... All he cared about is how hard it would hit a raccoon. An obsession I tell you... We have gone on several hunts to farms I pest for... With guns that would make any airgunner proud (BSA Lonestar .25, 57FPE Marauder in .25, etc...) but while unloading, there it was... Dark green case shoved deep in the trunk... Just in case the Big Boys could not manage the job. He trusts that crosman more than anything in his gun safe.
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As per finding a 2100 used... most of the times you can get them at shows for like 30 bucks, but most need resealing. Not a hard thing... but for 15 bucks a reseal kit, well, it puts you about 20 bucks less than a new one... But the oldies are sure purrrrty.... especially the 766, or the 2200...
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wally world has them for $55 .
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Crosman-2100-Classic-.177-Caliber-Carbine/15939531 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Crosman-2100-Classic-.177-Caliber-Carbine/15939531)
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Nice write up and good info Steve i also own a 2100 and a 2200 Mag as you said for 60 beans they are good shooters thanks for posting your upgrade/ work that you have done i will do the same on mine and smooth my trigger as you have done i also like the idea of useing the plumbers tape.
Mike 8)
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Nice touch crosshairs.
Forgot to mention. Elongating the bolt tip was easy, and burries the pellet deep into the barrel. I believe this lended to accuracy.
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i like the pic under your name - 1st time i've ever seen that lure work
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i like the pic under your name - 1st time i've ever seen that lure work
lol, the bbz1 is a great lure here in FL in the clear lakes when the water is colder (winter). They hammer it if you swim it over shallow submerged vegitation as they warm in the afternoon sun.
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https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2012/07/crosman-2100b-multi-pump-air-rifle-part-4/ (https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2012/07/crosman-2100b-multi-pump-air-rifle-part-4/)
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Can you post dimensions and maybe a photo... how far should the metal stick out of the plastic?
Petey has it figured out to pull out the probe to just past the 2 holes in the bolt . You have it out far enough when you can see through the holes . Pull gently . If you pull it out of the bolt you may have to epoxy it back in .
Don't know how I messed up , but was trying to answer someones question
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Until you can see through the hole cross drilled behind the probe.
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Happy to hear the probe mod worked out for ya... Too easy and best of all , it's free!
Happy Shootin to all!
Petey.
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa347/NPetey/2100011.jpg)
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That's a good looking AM77 Petey. Love the tactical look with the bipod and brake.
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I've tried a bunch of scopes on my 2100B with the same results - couldn't get it close enough to my eye. Tried to install a Leapers offset mount but the rounded top of the dovetails and the flat bottom of the mount just wouldn't mate. Five minutes with a file and that problem was solved. I also drilled a 3/8" hole for the mount's locking pin. With a Leapers 4x32AO scope I now have a fantastically solid scope that sits perfectly for me. Not too surprisingly, grouping just got tighter.
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I just got the AirMaster 77 3 or 4 days ago. I really love this gun. I didn't have too much luck with the open sights because it seemed that the truglo sights covered the target I was shooting at. I mounted the 4x20 scope: (I know a lot of people don't like it), and after sighthing it in, I can hit anything I aim at at about 25 yards. This is a great little gun and it seems to have plenty of power. :)
Mark
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I just got the AirMaster 77 3 or 4 days ago. I really love this gun. I didn't have too much luck with the open sights because it seemed that the truglo sights covered the target I was shooting at. I mounted the 4x20 scope: (I know a lot of people don't like it), and after sighthing it in, I can hit anything I aim at at about 25 yards. This is a great little gun and it seems to have plenty of power. :)
Mark
Very cool that you love the gun. They are truly great pumpers. Nothing wrong with that 4x20 scope. I like them once they are dialed in.
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I just got the AirMaster 77 3 or 4 days ago. I really love this gun. I didn't have too much luck with the open sights because it seemed that the truglo sights covered the target I was shooting at. I mounted the 4x20 scope: (I know a lot of people don't like it), and after sighthing it in, I can hit anything I aim at at about 25 yards. This is a great little gun and it seems to have plenty of power. :)
Mark
Congrats on the pumper!
Happy Shootin to ya !
Petey
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Thanks Ernesto and Pete. :)
Mark
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i thought that maybe instead of working the trigger to make it break quickly and smoothly, after the lube tune (lithium grease on contact points after polishing contact surfaces) i could drill and tap a small allen screw to the top of the trigger blade, where it has a straight face, and use the allen screw to make it stop earlier on the rest position, so it never sits fully open. that limits travel and is adjustable to put it as close to sear engagement as possible. It is a project i have been looking into finishing; then the trigger should be much better. at least theoretically.
I've found that it is much easier to drill and tap the pump tube. You will need to put a grove into the bottom of the hammer spring guide but that's spit easy. It works great.
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I did most of the same mods here, and a few of my own.
I opened up the ports on the Barrel and breech to match the size on the Valve body, Valve body port size is larger than both of these other two ports.
I did not do the bolt extension as i do not completely understand what i am suppose to do here, But I did something a little different here.
To extend the bolt further into the breech, i filed on the back side of the breech block body, so when the pellet is load the the bolt is closed it goes further forward, this allows the bolt to be brought farther forward just to the point that the pellet skirt is all the way past the port.
Trigger job, i polished all mating surfaces, Then went to Local Ace hardware and took the Very Stiff oem spring with me, and bought another spring < $1.00, that has 1/4 or maybe less spring pressure than that of stock spring, this made a big difference in the trigger pull, and is much better. I do not have a trigger pull gauge but it has a lot lighter pull.
Trigger has a space between the Sear & Trigger, there is a lot of slop here, this is why this gun has a longer than should be trigger pull.
I wanted to reduce/eliminate the pre-travel/Sloppy space for More accuracy.
I want to modify my sear & trigger to reduce/eliminate that gap between the two for a very short trigger pull, using a spent 22LR case, should be done hopefully in a few days.
I also will do the longer seal mod between the barrel/breech port using longer than stock seal length, using poly tubing.
also will angle exhaust port in valve (ala 22xx & 17xx mod) for quicker smoother air flow out of valve & may enlarge valve volume size while in there.
May go with a stiffer hammer spring, for quicker valve dump.
I also wanted to while apart, degrease & Debur pump tube, & relube with light amount of moly 60 grease, to smooth action, & lightly polish hammer/striker
They are fun to work on.
I dont have a chrony, wish i did may end up getting one before to long.
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The only tool you truly need... the chrony. without it your efforts are in vain (unless you find a way to bring squirrels back to life so they can describe how they were hit and how hard...lol)