GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 => Topic started by: melvin on March 30, 2012, 06:51:05 PM
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Who here has modified paintball regulators to work with air rifles? I am curious how to do it. I got some good info on it yesterday but didn't fully understand. Pics would be great!!!! Thanks guys
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Your hopefully talking HPA ? ... and not Co2
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Your hopefully talking HPA ? ... and not Co2
Absolutely.
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Your hopefully talking HPA ? ... and not Co2
Absolutely.
So, you wanting to piggy back a small HPA tank such as a 13 Cu In on the rifle ? ... Or remote carry a larger bottle in a backpack and have an umbilical hose to rifle ?
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I have a couple Ideas going right now.
One idea would be the 63cu tanks having an output of 2000psi so I could bring a couple with me when I go frogging. They would be used as mini fill stations
The other idea which is actually a completely different project would be to have a tank mounted to the gun with a 1300 to 1800psi output.
Here is a picture of what I was thinking for Idea 2
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I think using a disco valve and fill nipple on a 2400 tube that doesn't have the rolecote would be an excellent option to to a bottle gun.
By the way I am now an old timer!!!!!!!!!!!! 500 annoying posts later.
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Going remote bottle attached to gun has MANY options !!
One only need look at a comprehensive paintball site such as: www.mcarterbrown.com (http://www.mcarterbrown.com)
In recent years ( past 10 or so ) HPA has replaced Co2 for the most part.
*Pending to what degree your willing to modify gun is your only stumbling point IMO.
Even in PB guns we had small pocket PB pistols running on 12 gram Co2 cartridges that many guns converted to carry a small bottle under the grip. There is a dummy 12 gram that has a 1/8 NPT fitting in it's side allowing a flex hose connection to bottle. ( Down side is the SIDE of guns air tube alongside where 12 gram sits had to have a hole in placed threw it for the hose. )
Other mods could be tapping the same 1/8 NPT into the side of an existing valve body and again like a PBG remote the HPA source.
** Or you just foster fitting your fill port and connect up a QD fitting to tank/regulator.
Honestly in the world of CUSTOM your limited only by your imagination or abilities.
** Here a Custom I built using a SHERIDAN that shows the dummy 12gram hose type connection.
(http://www.mcarterbrown.com/forums/attachments/pump-guns/4690d1215147676-very-exotic-2k-pgp-one-kind-pbg-102.jpg)
This is a gun that used 12 grams loaded in front of lower tube ahead of grip, now a dedicated bottle gun.
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Going remote bottle attached to gun has MANY options !!
One only need look at a comprehensive paintball site such as: www.mcarterbrown.com (http://www.mcarterbrown.com)
In recent years ( past 10 or so ) HPA has replaced Co2 for the most part.
*Pending to what degree your willing to modify gun is your only stumbling point IMO.
Even in PB guns we had small pocket PB pistols running on 12 gram Co2 cartridges that many guns converted to carry a small bottle under the grip. There is a dummy 12 gram that has a 1/8 NPT fitting in it's side allowing a flex hose connection to bottle. ( Down side is the SIDE of guns air tube alongside where 12 gram sits had to have a hole in placed threw it for the hose. )
Other mods could be tapping the same 1/8 NPT into the side of an existing valve body and again like a PBG remote the HPA source.
** Or you just foster fitting your fill port and connect up a QD fitting to tank/regulator.
Honestly in the world of CUSTOM your limited only by your imagination or abilities.
I follow what you are saying. Here is my problem and here is what I want to do. First the problem.
The paintball tanks that hold HPA up from 3000 to 4500psi only have an output of 800 PSI. So I need to figure out how to mod the valve so It will give me an output of 1300 to 1800PSI Anywhere in between those numbers would be fine for what I want to do.
The Idea of fostering the end of the tube is what I want to do I am pretty sure. also I think placing a disco valve in the tube and pinning it is a must for me.
I dont believe using the co2 valve is an option for me so the dummy cart isn't the way I want to go.
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http://jdsairman.com/Regs.html (http://jdsairman.com/Regs.html) This site sells regulators that have the correct outputs. I want to mod a regulator that is on the tank so I dont have to cough up a bunch of cash for these regulators.
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A lot of the HPA regulators can be dismantled and spring shimmed up or shims removed to change output pressure.
As you linked there are those aftermarket Regs than can be purchased with higher outputs
From here not real sure what further help i can offer ?
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You don't state what kind of gun you are thinking of converting to HPA so it's pretty tough to comment.... There are safety issues to be addressed.... With the proper precautions, and providing you protect the gun with a 1.8K burst disc to limit the pressure in the event of a regulator failure to 1800 psi.... you can mod both the 22XX/Disco series and the QB7X guns to HPA use.... I've done the shimming on Ninja regulators (only) and can help with that information.... Let us know what you're thinking of modding....
Bob
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You don't state what kind of gun you are thinking of converting to HPA so it's pretty tough to comment.... There are safety issues to be addressed.... With the proper precautions, and providing you protect the gun with a 1.8K burst disc to limit the pressure in the event of a regulator failure to 1800 psi.... you can mod both the 22XX/Disco series and the QB7X guns to HPA use.... I've done the shimming on Ninja regulators (only) and can help with that information.... Let us know what you're thinking of modding....
Bob
I plan on using a crosman custom shop 2400 gun. The ninja tank you are speaking of is the kind of tank I would like to get to work. Thanks Bob
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You will need to locate the valve properly in the tube and seal it to the tube for a start.... assuming you are planning on pressurizing the tube.... A Disco valve will work great, get the screws with it, drill the tube accurately so that all three screws take equal load, and you have that part looked after.... You can use a QB79 tank block on the front end to mount the tank, but it is a really good idea to install extra screws for safety.... JDS Airman sells modified blocks that mount with 4 screws for this purpose.... You can then just thread a Ninja tank right into the block, and you are most of the way there.... It is really important to protect the gun from excessive pressure with a 1.8K burst disc.... That limits your regulator output to 1500-1600 psi, and the closer you push it the more chance of blowing a burst disc.... If this is your first attempt at HPA, I would suggest you get a 1200 or 1400 psi output regulated tank from JDS Airman.... If you get a 13 CI tank you can mount it right on the gun....
If you decide to go with a remote tank and a line, then you can get whatever size tank you want, but again I wouldn't go more than 1400 psi and make SURE you have a 1.8K burst disc on the output side of the regulator for safety.... If you go with a remote tank, instead of the QB79 style tank block you can use the fill fitting c/w male Foster from a Disco.... Make sure that you use hoses and fittings that are rated for the pressures you will be running.... If you choose 1200 psi, you can get away with the stock hammer spring and fine tune it with an RVA (power adjuster).... If you go 1400 psi, then use a 13XX hammer spring, again with an RVA.... If you use a 1500-1600 psi tank, then you will need a Disco hammer spring with an RVA.... Tuning the hammer is the key to good performance while keeping a decent shot count....
Bob
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You will need to locate the valve properly in the tube and seal it to the tube for a start.... assuming you are planning on pressurizing the tube.... A Disco valve will work great, get the screws with it, drill the tube accurately so that all three screws take equal load, and you have that part looked after.... You can use a QB79 tank block on the front end to mount the tank, but it is a really good idea to install extra screws for safety.... JDS Airman sells modified blocks that mount with 4 screws for this purpose.... You can then just thread a Ninja tank right into the block, and you are most of the way there.... It is really important to protect the gun from excessive pressure with a 1.8K burst disc.... That limits your regulator output to 1500-1600 psi, and the closer you push it the more chance of blowing a burst disc.... If this is your first attempt at HPA, I would suggest you get a 1200 or 1400 psi output regulated tank from JDS Airman.... If you get a 13 CI tank you can mount it right on the gun....
If you decide to go with a remote tank and a line, then you can get whatever size tank you want, but again I wouldn't go more than 1400 psi and make SURE you have a 1.8K burst disc on the output side of the regulator for safety.... If you go with a remote tank, instead of the QB79 style tank block you can use the fill fitting c/w male Foster from a Disco.... Make sure that you use hoses and fittings that are rated for the pressures you will be running.... If you choose 1200 psi, you can get away with the stock hammer spring and fine tune it with an RVA (power adjuster).... If you go 1400 psi, then use a 13XX hammer spring, again with an RVA.... If you use a 1500-1600 psi tank, then you will need a Disco hammer spring with an RVA.... Tuning the hammer is the key to good performance while keeping a decent shot count....
Bob
This is all great info Bob. How do you go about turning the 800psi output valve on a ninja tank into a 1600psi output? I am so curious about this it is something that I just need to know.
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Thank you for leading me to JDS AIRMAN by the way. This site is going to help me for sure.
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The low pressure output (450-850 psi) Ninja regulators use a coil spring.... The high pressure ones (1000 psi and up) use a stack of belleville washers (disc springs).... The regulator bodies and the pistons and seals are identical, however.... To change a low pressure (paintball) Ninja to one running 1000 psi or more, you need 10-12 thick disc springs and a couple of thin ones, plus a bunch of shims of different thicknesses.... This stuff is all avaliable from McMaster Carr.... The disc springs are 5/16" ID x 5/8" OD, the thick ones are 0.032" and the thin ones are 0.022".... The shims are 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD and you need a selection from 0.002" to 0.020".... At a minimum get a few each 0.002", 0.005" and 0.020".... Here is a chart that will give you some information about how to get various pressures on Ninja regulators....
(http://i378.photobucket.com/albums/oo221/rsterne/Important/NinjaRegulators.jpg)
I made that chart with one specific regulator, but you should find the trends valid and the shim thicknesses within about 0.010".... The disc springs are arranged as follows:
) ) () () () () ( ( | |
Bold type indicates thick, normal type indicates thin.... There are usually 1 or 2 thin disc springs, depending on pressure range, one on each end.... For really high pressures, replace the thin ones with thick ones.... HTHs....
Bob
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Looks like I am going to have to buy one and take it apart and get back to you on this subject Bob. Until I have one in front of me in pieces we wont be on the same page. I am for sure going to buy one and we will go from there. Thank you for your time and input. I was hoping you would find this thread and comment as someone told me you knew how to do this.
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Bob is a very informative fellow. He (as are many others) is a great asset to the gta!
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Bob is a very informative fellow. He (as are many others) is a great asset to the gta!
Bob has taught me alot. Seriously went from knowing nothing to knowing and understanding alot from Bobs posts and from his friendly help.