GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Tpatner412 on March 29, 2012, 07:15:31 PM
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My new video on pellet traps. Got 4 different kinds in here that I have found to be fairly effective when it comes to stopping lead. A few DIY ideas for traps that will cost very little. When you think about the fact that a .22 rimfire trap can cost upwards of $50 these ideas can be very helpful. Not the flashiest by any means but they work well.
I would also love to see what some of you guys have done in terms of building your own traps as I am always looking for new ideas and ways to stop pellets ;D
Also, at the end of the video I talk a bit about what gun reviews I have coming up if you are interested.
Thanks for watching
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5KcXqguAqQ&feature=plcp&context=C490176dVDvjVQa1PpcFPRTww_be5MRAM9_WPkf_IgvNYkVKtb8Xw%3D# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5KcXqguAqQ&feature=plcp&context=C490176dVDvjVQa1PpcFPRTww_be5MRAM9_WPkf_IgvNYkVKtb8Xw%3D#)
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Thanks for the tips Tyler!
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hey-Hey!!!,
Looking into a good pellet trap also. Outdoor application. I figured on making its maw about 20" tall and wide enough for two or three targets. Backstop is a 4' long plate angled off the ground at 30-degrees. Floor will be a layer of sand. So a 4' x 4' x6" thick box of sand that can have its lead strained out and a 12 gage steel deflector panel; sides closed off with triangles to leave only the target area open. I can probably have the plate bent from a single sheet, and if not my TIG machine still has argon...:) Y'all think a few inches of sand will do to stop them? or do I need 10 ga?
Aside from the targets, I don't want any wear items.
cheers,
Douglas
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I just built a box out of a 12" wide x 1/2" thick pine board from home depot and a few packs of "duct seal" that stuff will stop a .22 mrod point blank. I've prob shot 1000 rounds at it so far - no issues.
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Thanks for the tips Tyler!
Any time bro
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hey-Hey!!!,
Looking into a good pellet trap also. Outdoor application. I figured on making its maw about 20" tall and wide enough for two or three targets. Backstop is a 4' long plate angled off the ground at 30-degrees. Floor will be a layer of sand. So a 4' x 4' x6" thick box of sand that can have its lead strained out and a 12 gage steel deflector panel; sides closed off with triangles to leave only the target area open. I can probably have the plate bent from a single sheet, and if not my TIG machine still has argon...:) Y'all think a few inches of sand will do to stop them? or do I need 10 ga?
Aside from the targets, I don't want any wear items.
cheers,
Douglas
Not sure about the sand but as long as your reinforce the back of the trap it shouldn't be an issue. Sounds like a very cool concept though, if you do end up putting it into use I would love to see it
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Here's mine.......
The Blue stuff is High Density urethane shipping foam.
Behind the foam is a layer of Duct Seal.
So far, It stops my Crosman 1377 pistol pellets (about 500 fps) .177 cal.
and it stops my HW 35 springer pellets (not sure of the fps but probably about 700 fps).
I made it out out some Plywood and scrap 1x2 boards that I had laying around the garage.
I use clipboards to hold the Targets.
Works Great and is very quiet....
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/Picture001av.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/Picture004.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/Picture003a.jpg)
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Here's mine.......
The Blue stuff is High Density urethane shipping foam.
Behind the foam is a layer of Duct Seal.
So far, It stops my Crosman 1377 pistol pellets (about 500 fps) .177 cal.
and it stops my HW 35 springer pellets (not sure of the fps but probably about 700 fps).
I made it out out some Plywood and scrap 1x2 boards that I had laying around the garage.
I use clipboards to hold the Targets.
Works Great and is very quiet....
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/Picture001av.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/Picture004.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/Picture003a.jpg)
Very nice, did you build the housing or was it already in use as something else before you converted it to a pellet trap?
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I built it from scratch.
Stole the Idea from Archer Air Guns......
I just made Mine a Double Wide ;D
Here is a Vid of the Original Trap as made by Archer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnQJFo3X2zs&feature=player_embedded# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnQJFo3X2zs&feature=player_embedded#)
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i used that last pellet trap u made a vid about and it worked great for out at 28 yards but when i brought it in for chrono work my 25 m rod blew right through it.i went and got a hay bail and i get no pass throughs at all after a few hundred shots
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i used that last pellet trap u made a vid about and it worked great for out at 28 yards but when i brought it in for chrono work my 25 m rod blew right through it.i went and got a hay bail and i get no pass throughs at all after a few hundred shots
Maybe you needed to replace the tshirts then. Should be fine to stop a .25 mrod point blank, just have to make sure there is adequate stopping material
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ya i think it was under stuffed i rebuilt it and use it for my target shootin but now i got the chrono station all set up with the hay bail so im good to go.def a great inexpensive pellet trap
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I built it from scratch.
Stole the Idea from Archer Air Guns......
I just made Mine a Double Wide ;D
Here is a Vid of the Original Trap as made by Archer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnQJFo3X2zs&feature=player_embedded# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EnQJFo3X2zs&feature=player_embedded#)
Just keep in mind, that duct seal is going to loose effectiveness after a few pellets land in the same( or near the same ) spot. Can't have lead blowing out the back ov the trap.
Instead of phone books, buy an item or two from Mouser and Digikey. They will then send you plenty of new catalogs. It takes a few shots to punch through one of those...:)
cheers,
Douglas
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Very nice job on the video. I watched the Hatsan 95 video as well. It's really nice to actually see up close these different guns I always read about here that you guys have. Gorgeous gun.
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So far, my cardboard box stuffed with knotted up plastic grocery bags and a steel back plate have stopped everything at thirty feet, including a .20 RX and a .177 54. And it's dead quiet, too. I have yet to hear a "ping!". Eventually I will see if the lead is recoverable for casting but the bags to tend to shred and wad up with the pellets, so I might not be able to salvage everything.
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Red, I pulled a bunch of lead out of one of my Tshirt traps and the vast majority would have been recoverable. Especially when you shoot into the same holes a lot, you get big chunks that are very easy to remove
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""Just keep in mind, that duct seal is going to loose effectiveness after a few pellets land in the same( or near the same ) spot. Can't have lead blowing out the back of the trap.""
No it won't......Mine weighs so much now ...and I have never had a pellet come back.
Duct seal is good stuff.
Build your trap properly and you will have no issues.
3/4 inch ply..
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa347/NPetey/airguns003-1.jpg)
Happy Shootin!
Pete.
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Yeah, I get big chunks of 30+ pellets stuck together in my trap.
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I have some old boxes stuffed with old kids clothes such with jeans and tee's. Stuffed it very tight and have been hammering it for ages and its withstood repeated abuse by a .25 cal mrod, FX500 and a whole slew of other 25 fpe plus guns.
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When you guys say, "Recover the Lead," what do you use it for?
You dont cast your own Pellets,,,,,,do you? :o
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Redharris, I try to recover any 'lead' but only use them for line weights (fishing) or toss them into one of my recycle bins. (I collect scrap metal)
The material in pellets (exspecially cheap pellets) can be a mixture...lead, zinc etc.
Not good for re-melting, too many contaminates.
I mainly 'trap' them because I don't want all those 'contaminates' to get into the ground water table!
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I have been thinking of using "Bullet Trap" technology in constructing backstops . . . Made from steel plate ( lighter than shown, as it does not have to stop a rifle bullet )
Click to ENLARGE . . . ( Not my drawing - Ignore "wheels" )
(http://i1140.photobucket.com/albums/n561/Ez2cDave/Bullet-Trap-dwg.jpg)
Dave
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Like that one. :D
Made this a few months back, call it the "paintball challenge". 2x4 rails are drilled 11/16 and paintballs slip in from the back. 1/4" steel kill zone plates cover the wood and paintballs...have cover plates with 1/4, 3/8 and 5/8" kill zones. Rails and cover plates can be removed quickly (held on with wing nuts now) and paper targets stapled to the 2x material in back. There's a piece of 1/4" steel that covers the entire back. Drilled some holes in the top to mount the spinner target for use at home. (acreage)
(http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg76/gippeto_album/IMG_2865.jpg)
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Gippeto......^^^
Very Nice....Looks Heavy. I would need a Forklift to move it...Lol
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Like that one. :D
Made this a few months back, call it the "paintball challenge". 2x4 rails are drilled 11/16 and paintballs slip in from the back. 1/4" steel kill zone plates cover the wood and paintballs...have cover plates with 1/4, 3/8 and 5/8" kill zones. Rails and cover plates can be removed quickly (held on with wing nuts now) and paper targets stapled to the 2x material in back. There's a piece of 1/4" steel that covers the entire back. Drilled some holes in the top to mount the spinner target for use at home. (acreage)
Hey, that is a very cool idea . . . !
Dave
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Tyler, thanks for the log idea!
Gippeto, thanks for the 'paintball challenge' idea!
Dave, I have made traps with metal, pellets will bounce out, you need to fill them or use the duct seal, I work in textiles and have an endless supply of material to stuff the boxes.
For the 'big guns', I have to stake them to ground!
Wish I could find out how to post pictures!
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Tyler, thanks for the log idea!
Gippeto, thanks for the 'paintball challenge' idea!
Dave, I have made traps with metal, pellets will bounce out, you need to fill them or use the duct seal, I work in textiles and have an endless supply of material to stuff the boxes.
For the 'big guns', I have to stake them to ground!
Wish I could find out how to post pictures!
To post pictures . . . Check this out !
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,3523.0.html (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,3523.0.html)
Dave
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I'll bet mine is the cheapest, and ugliest.
An old thick-a** catalog with the pages taped shut.
The pellets remain stuck in the pages and no mess anywhere.
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I use a 5" thick cardboard box the size of a once folded newspaper and stuff it completely full of old newspapers then tape it shut with packaging tape. Stand it on one end, tape a target to the front and shoot your heart out. I have one that has probably 500 holes in it and all I ever have to do is put a piece of packing tape on shredded cardboard as a patch now and then. If one side gets to looking too ragged, just turn the box around and start shooting into the other side. Have never had a pellet go all the way through and I have used it all the way down to 20 feet. As silent as a trap can get and costs absolutely nothing if you take the newspaper.
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My old stand by for MANY year is an old beer box (when they used to ship them in 4x6pack boxes) or similar size box, filled with newspapers.
It is relatively quiet and my low power rifles can't get very deep.
As was mentioned, if you get the paper, the stuffing for the trap is free.
>> Caution, not all duct seal is the same. <<
I have burrowed thru a layer of duct seal and HIT the back of the trap, with only 5 shots. And I did this with a LOW powered target pistol, not a medium or high powered rifle.
Here is the "problem." There is no real standard for duct seal. It is meant to plug a hole, not stop a pellet, so density of the material is not a primary concern when they make it. I purchased the SAME brand (GB) of duct seal from 2 different stores in 2 different states (Home Depot in Calif, and Ace Hardware in Hawaii). The duct seal that I got in Hawaii was SIGNIFICANTLY SOFTER than the duct seal I got in Calif. You could push your finger easily into the duct seal. I went back to the Ace Hardware store and checked all the duct seal they had, and they were ALL SOFT (inside the air conditioned store, not outside in the sun). I was never able to get the Calif duct seal anywhere near as soft even in the warm summer. I did not go to the other hardware stores to look for duct seal, but I think I will do that the next time I go.
Although, the next time I go back to Hawaii, I may take a few bricks of Calif duct seal, so I can replace the soft duct seal in the trap. Although TSA will probably have a fit with that in my luggage.
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i built a super simple one, its not very big but if youre zero'd in its great and quiet. Took 2 large phonebooks, duct taped them together, then built a contraption with a large clip that holds the target in front. I sit it on a plastic trashcan turned upside down, and it all sits in front of a large oak i use as the safety backstop. Took me about 2 minutes, its super quiet...shooting at 25 yards with a disco 22 the pellets dont penetrate the first phone book.
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One caution about paper traps that I learned the hard way.
If you are shooting LOW powered guns and you use magazines in your paper trap. You could have "bounce back," where the pellet comes bouncing back at you.
The problem is the magazine paper is SO DENSE that it compresses and does not cut/tear as newspaper does. So a low powered gun will have the pellet bounced back at the shooter.
The method that I use to make the paper trap has 3 steps.
1 - put 1 to 2 inches of magazines in the back of the trap.
2 - put 3 to 4 inches of newspaper on top of the magazines.
3 - put 2 inches of wadded up newspaper or foam or similar on top of the news paper. This layer is there to catch any bounce backs.