GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Redharris on March 18, 2012, 01:51:04 PM
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Hi Everyone.... I am new to the Forum and only recently got into the airgun hobby with any seriousness.
Long story short. A friend of mine handed over an HW 35 that was owned and loved by his Father who had passed away a couple years ago. The rifle was then stored in the Garage and got Rusty :(. He Hopes I might be able to get it working.
The rifle works, but the velocity is low. I'm guessing that the seals are toast. The barrel LOOKS ok. Its a bit Dusty but I see no pitting or rust inside the barrel.
I THINK this is a pretty old gun,,,,,1970's, and maybe even older.
Are parts available for this rifle?
Is there a Manual with I.P.B available?
Is this gun Salvageable?
Here are some pics.
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/a.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/a4.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/a3.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/a1.jpg)
(http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/redharris/Guns/a5.jpg)
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The best place to look for parts is probably Gunspares in the UK. They may be a little slow in getting back to you via email, but I have found them to be very helpful. http://www.gunspares.co.uk/ (http://www.gunspares.co.uk/)
I know I've seen a couple of members here suggest using some Ballistol on the metal parts to help get rid of the rust. Iirc, they suggest spraying it on, letting it sit for awhile, wipe down, and repeat.
That should be a great gun if you can get it restored back to good working condition. Sounds like a fun project to me. :)
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Hello Redharris.
Parts for this wonderful gun are readily available.
The rust is unfortunate, but can be removed with chemicals. It appears however, that the rust has become "pits" (I think this is the terminology). Hence, it appears to have eaten it's way somewhat into the metall. This cannot be made pristine.
You may however, remove the rust, sand the metal smoother (many tips online) and re-blue. The pits will for the most part still be visible, but the metal will look altogether at a glance as if the gun is up-kept.
I would, if you don't mind my opinion, do this; Keep the gun, repair it, and keep your Grandfather in the best of memories. He apparently had good taste, and a true sense of quality.
My old Diana 35 was purchased by my Grandfather in 1954, I am refinishing it and it still shoots like a champ.
Greetings.
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It's a complete Wreck! Send it to me and I will melt it down and make something useful out of it!
Just kidding. They are very easy to work on. I have an article that someone in England wrote on tuning the gun. I also have instructions on making a leather piston seal (if it has not been upgraded). If you are interested, I can send those to you. Personally, I prefer the leather seal. Very consistent...and replacing it with synthetic will require an adapter. Springs and rear spring guides are available through PA (look under Beeman parts), and also ARH. Jim even has a drop in tune kit...and the adapters. The record trigger is very nice. If you can get it to shoot about 740-750 fps with CPHPs, you will have about all she can give.
Is the stock beech or walnut?
You can also find the front globe sights and the inserts for it.
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Thank you all for the advice. I do indeed intend to restore this gun as best I can. It looks like it will be a fun Project and a good Test of my skills.
What I need most at the present time is to learn how to disassemble the gun in a safe manner, so that I can evaluate any wear/damage. I have searched You Tube for disassembly videos, but have found nothing for the HW35. This gun is different from all the Springers I have seen, in that the Spring is not removed from the Rear of the receiver tube. It LOOKS like the spring is removed from the Front of the receiver, after the barrel and hinge assembly is removed. Not Sure if I need a Spring Compessor,,, and I dont want to find out the hard way, and have the Spring shoot out and put a hole in my wall :o.......
I am mechanically inclined and good with Tools, but I am in-experienced with air guns. I have a couple Crosman Pistols (1377 and 2240) that I have worked on and modded, but that is about the extent of my air gun knowledge......I will appreciate all the help I can get!!!
@ Smackey......I would very much appreciate you sending me that Tuning Article and instructions on how to make a leather seal. Would you be sending the Articles via E-Mail or do you need my postal address?.....I do not know how to tell the difference between Beech and Walnut, so I'm not sure what the stock is, lol.
I googled "Balistol" and found it to be a lube/cleaner. It looks like it will not attack the Blueing, but I am not sure if it will remove my rust...... I know that "Naval Jelly" will remove the rust, but it also completely removes the Blueing, and leaves the steel bare. If I use Naval jelly,,,,,It would be best to refinish the gun immediately to stop any new rust from forming.
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This link may be helpful to you. :)
http://fuzzylimey.net/oddsnends/sprguntune.html (http://fuzzylimey.net/oddsnends/sprguntune.html)
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The link Lizzie gave you is very good, but with the 35, you don't even need a spring compressor. I will forward you what I have. I think that Lizzie might also have those articles.
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I am a huge fan of Balistol. I have worked with some very rusty old 22 rim fires and it does a very good job. It will not of course remove pitting, but it will hide the heck out of it. Try it on all your guns and you may be surprised that the Anchutz you have had for 30 years has a light film of rust on it. Mine did. as mentioned above put a light coat on, let is sit while you have a cup of coffee. then start rubbing, with an old towel or cotton something. Repeat until satisfied.
Darrell
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@ Smackey......I would very much appreciate you sending me that Tuning Article and instructions on how to make a leather seal. Would you be sending the Articles via E-Mail or do you need my postal address?.....I do not know how to tell the difference between Beech and Walnut, so I'm not sure what the stock is, lol.
@ Smackey......I would very much appreciate you sending me that Tuning Article and instructions on how to make a leather seal. Would you be sending the Articles via E-Mail or do you need my postal address?.....I do not know how to tell the difference between Beech and Walnut, so I'm not sure what the stock is, lol.
This link will show you some pictures of my hw35 with a walnut stock.....just for reference
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,24280.msg219473.html#msg219473 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php/topic,24280.msg219473.html#msg219473)
Also send me a PM with your email address, and I will send you the articles...and how to.
Mark
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Thanks Lizzie.....That is Good info and will help me out a lot.
@ dwk54rak.....I will get Balistol and give it a shot...
@ Smackey PM sent....I looked at those links. The Stock on my gun does not have the beautiful wide grain, like in those pictures. I am thinking that my stock might be Beech.
I got a chance to work on the rifle a bit at work during Breaks ;)......
The trigger mechanism was intermittent. Sometimes the gun would not fire after cocking. Sometimes it would fire at unexpectedly, which is a Scary situation... I found the trigger mechanism contaminated with a lot of old, dried, hardened grease. It was causing the trigger to Stick. I cleaned it out with an orangewood stick, some Breakfree, and some Remington Cleaner/Lube spray. Trigger works nicely now...... I also dug out the old, Petrified Barrel seal and replace it with a couple O-Rings I had laying around my workspace. Cleaned the barrel a bit and applied a small amount of oil to the rifling. The rifle shoots reliably now with some fair amount of velocity......It Buries a pellet a couple mm into a 2x4 at about 6 feet distance. I dont own a chrony yet, but I can tell the velocity is better than my Crosman 177 pistol at 10 pumps (around 500fps), because the rifle sinks its pellets deeper into the board than my pistol does......The rifle is missing its front sight, so I cant hit the Broad Side of a Barn even approaching 5 meters. Gotta find a front sight for this thing,,,,,or mount a Scope on it,,,,before I know how its accuracy is.....
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Yeah, that Ballistol stuff is amazing. Did you know it is not even petroleum based? You can even drink the stuff. Really. It was developed real early 1900's, and was readily known for it's medicinal household remedies.
Yep. Grandma used it for hemorrhoids. I even heard once, since Hitler was abstinent, he would even take a swig now and then. Ole Aunt Eva would get irritated though....probably why she was not around much. ;D
It does cover up rust though. Amazing.
PS: You really can drink the stuff.
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"This gun is different from all the Springers I have seen, in that the Spring is not removed from the Rear of the receiver tube. It LOOKS like the spring is removed from the Front of the receiver, after the barrel and hinge assembly is removed. Not Sure if I need a Spring Compessor,,,"
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Go to
<http://www.gunspares.co.uk/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=24562&cat=HW35>
Run your cursor over the image to enlarge part # BE002. That is the breech plug which is threaded into the extreme rear of the compression tube. Even tho they are so finely machined and matched to almost become invisible the junction is clearly visible in your 5th & final pic in the opening post.
NEVER try to work on ANY spring powered gun without benefit of a spring compressor!! It is beyond 'common sense'. Yes---there are some guns that can be worked on without but to learn which ones they are a compressor is mandatory----unless you're ready to test your new health care benefits under Obamacare.
Get the Ballistol and never look back!
And if your friend is suffering great guilt for allowing his Father's rifle to get to this sorry state I'll be happy to relieve him of his load of guilt for $50. 8) Tom
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Tom......
You are Right!......
I looked VERY closely at the base of the end cap and I can BARELY see a seem, even with my 10x eye loupe. It is mostly obscured by rust. I am probably going to have to soak it in penetrate to loosen it up for removal. The articles that Smackey e-mailed me show the same Illustrated Parts List and step by step instructions for disassembly. (Thanks for those Documents Smackey ;D)
I have spoken to many folks about disassembling this gun. Some say I need a Spring Compressor, some say I dont for this Particular gun. Others say I MAY need one, because the gun MAY have been modified, and who knows whats inside. In any case, I will take your advice and build myself a spring compressor....Better Safe than Sorry, especially since this is a first time experience for me.....
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"It is mostly obscured by rust. I am probably going to have to soak it in penetrate to loosen it up for removal."
The Ballistol will serve well for that purpose and loosen the rust as well. The main ingredient of Ballistol is mineral oil----which is why it can be ingested safely. (NOT by me!) That is why it is safe to use on the ENTIRE gun including leather goods, stock finish and rubber and plastic. While I have for decades maintained a stock of specialized lubes conveniently to hand in fine-tip dispenser bottles I most often reach for the Ballistol.
Before you break the gun down you should be aware that it may not be necessary at all. Leather piston seals can often be rehabilitated in situ. The 1st step is always establishing a base line. By whatever means necessary get it chronied to find out how it's shooting. IIRC a healthy leather-sealed HW-35 should be in the 650-700 bracket. (google that---don't trust MY memory!) If it's currently shooting above 550 there's a very good chance that PROPERLY lubing the piston seal will revive it to past glory. Doing so is a process.
Acquire some 100% silicone oil. Beeman & RWS used to list it but I'm not current on their product lines. Any good fishing tackle shop should stock it as reel oil. Model shops have it under guise of model car shock absorber oil and most motorcycle shops will stock it in a fork oil. IOW it's not exactly hard to find!
At this point a bottle with a precise dispenser tip is a distinct advantage.
Break the barrel joint lightly and cast your eye on the very front of the compression tube where you will see a small hole (@ .125" in diameter) that serves as a duct to direct the high pressure air from the compression chamber into the barrel immediately behind the pellet. This simple hole is the 'transfer port'---because that is its' function---to transfer the high pressure air into the barrel to drive the pellet. (BTW---don't be offended if I seem to be over-simplifying---there may be many not so astute that will benefit from it!)
Holding the barrel partly broken open use your dispenser tip bottle to introduce 3-4 droplets of the 100% silicone oil into the transfer port. Stop and allow it to drain into the compression chamber. Close the barrel/breech. Set the rifle---muzzle up---in a corner in a warm place. Go away and leave it for a few hours while you paint the bathroom, mow and edge or make a beer run. ;) Whichever will earn the most points from SWMBO. ;D When you've 'earned your stripes' or can no longer stand it pick up the rifle and ---still maintaining it vertically---distribute the silicone onto the piston seal by cranking the barrel back & forth several times WITHOUT going too far and actually setting the sear.
On a very old and dry gun a repetition of the process a time or two may be advantageous but only the Chrony will tell you if you're making progress. If nothing is gained then a full tear-down becomes warranted. HTH, Tom
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LOL airnutz! ;D
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For Silicone oil, try some "shock" oil from your local hobby store. The oil is pure silicone and comes in various weights. Try the 20 or 30 wt. Will cost $3-$4 for 2 ounces, which should last you a long time.
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Good to know........A Chronny is next on my LIST of "things to buy."
Also....I'm a Remote Control Hobbyist, so I have all sorts of Silicone oil laying around......
Suppose my seal is lubricated with organic (vegetable?) oil.
Can I assume that mixing oil types will not Bugger up the works?
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Good to know........A Chronny is next on my LIST of "things to buy."
Also....I'm a Remote Control Hobbyist, so I have all sorts of Silicone oil laying around......
Suppose my seal is lubricated with organic (vegetable?) oil.
Can I assume that mixing oil types will not Bugger up the works?
If someone lubed the Seal with vegetable oil, they should be shot (with something bigger than an air rifle)...with the size of the compression chamber and the leather seal, it is even recommended that you treat it with either a mixture of 30 weight (non-detergent) motor oil and neatsfoot oil, or silicone and neatsfoot oil.
As for the spring compressor, it is very difficult to use a spring compressor on that rifle, as the rear of the reciever and trigger block screw out...and you may have to use a "persuader" to break it loose (as mentioned in the article I sent you). I followed the directions in the article to tear mine down and replace the rear spring guide and tune/lube the gun. The leather seal was in great shape, but the "grease" on the spring had started to stiffen.
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OK Redharris, here is the real scoop;
Firstly, the old deep rust will not disappear, regardless of the method applied. Pits remain.
Secondly, the old leather breech seal can be made like new.
Thirdly, use a Spring Compressor when you fumble with springs. Period!
I have removed the blueing of my vintage 1954 Diana 35 and polished the metal so that it shines like chrome. The metal was lightly rusted. All gone now. I will soon re- blue the metall.
Leather breech seals should be removed and soaked in motor oil for 24 hours, re-inserted with a very thin (0.2mm) metall shim first, then the leather O-Ring. You may see that the seal has swollen and will re-seal nicely. The gun will perform nicely again.
The piston seal will need to be replaced. This is mandatory.
The end effect will be;
1). A wonderful Air Rifle with good punch and accuracy that will last another 30 years.
2.) An almost (from 2 feet visibility) perfect metall blue finish. Small pits will become invisible.
3.) Fun and pride in achieving the above.
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"Thirdly, use a Spring Compressor when you fumble with springs. Period!"
You can use a spring compressor but.....and I mean but....you will have severe difficulty backing out the threaded end plug and trigger block, AND keeping the spring compressor centered, unless you build one or buy one like the one shown in the attachment that Lizzie posted. It is NOT held in by pins, but by threads. The spring comes out about 2 inches when the threads let go.
FOLLOW the instructions in the article I sent you, Red...and you will have no problems.
Mark
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Yes Smackey54, The HW's are different than Dianas. I only meant to reiterate "safety first".
I had at first trouble with centering the spring mechanism as it would definitely drift (turn) while compressing or de-compressing (removal) of the spring. I chose to grind the end of the compressing piece to exactly fit the counterpart of the spring holder. This saved from the spring wanting to travel and move while compressing.
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Redharris, from my own very recent personal experience, you may have much pleasure and satisfaction with the following procedures;
1.) I removed the old Blueing and Rust with "Tetra-Gun Blue and Rust Remover".
2.) Sanding with various metal grit paper, then the finest steel wool.
3.) High shine polishing with brushes on a bench lathe and steel polishing compound so that the surface shines almost like chrome.
4.) Follow procedures with one of the various "cold bluing" products available.
Sir, you will see that the old piece will shine again, and from 2 feet look like new. I feel a worthy attempt and a decent attempt to keep an old piece "up and running". If I might add, this is also quite a favourable experience!
Greetings.
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A couple of caveats concerning cold blues--------
Different steels react differently to various cold blues. I've recently had tremendous luck using Brownell's Oxpho Blue on old Crosmans. But it wasn't equally effective on the barrel of an HW30 where it had rusted from hand acids from cocking it many thousands of times. Acceptable but not superior as in the case of the Crosmans.
Also-----
A high polish can prevent cold blues being fully effective----again depending on the steel and the blue formula. In case you encounter that phenomena you can try different blues as well as varied surface finishes. Tom
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Excellent info Tom!
I know that HW's react VERY well with for instance the Ballistol Bluing Agent.
I would even say, from the situation at hand, even a lesser brand would do the old rusty gun well. Interesting though, the info of metal differences from brand to brand.
My info is, with German Steel and re-bluing, a High Shine, then warmed metal will provide an acceptable new blue-black finish.
Once again though, anything would be better than what Redharris has shown.
Greetings.
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"My info is, with German Steel and re-bluing, a High Shine, then warmed metal will provide an acceptable new blue-black finish."
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Not unlike my own methods. I normally polish to the chrome like standard you mention then heat the metal with a propane torch to 'sweat' out oil in the pores followed by a quick wipe-down with a clean, lint-free cloth containing mineral spirits. I repeat the sweating as many times as I deem needed and after the final wipe down with 90% alcohol I follow it QUICKLY with the cold blue to avoid the almost instantaneous film of rust that will form on totally oil-free steel. I follow that with a quick polish with 4/0 steel wool or white Scotch-brite and more coats of blue and polish until I see no further improvement. If the shape of the part being blued lends itself to it I do all of that in the lathe while the part turns on the low speed setting. FWIW---the white Scotch-brite makes a good application pad for the bluing.
Surprisingly good results can be attained if the bluing formula and steel are compatible. Tom
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Thanks Tom!
What is a "white Scotch-brite" pad? We don't have this stuff over here, but perhaps something similar.
Could you suggest anything?
Thanks.
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Thanks Tom!
What is a "white Scotch-brite" pad? We don't have this stuff over here, but perhaps something similar.
Could you suggest anything?
Thanks.
Hmmmm----it's an abrasive pad by 3M products that is a random matrix material impregnated with an abrasive substance. The most common form is the 'green' found in the kitchen accessories dept. of the big box stores where it is sold as a scrubbing/polishing pad for kitchen utensils. It seems particularly suited to reviving the surface finish of stainless steel vessels.
It is available in 4 abrasive levels IME. The red/brown grade is the functional equivalent of jewelers rouge. Now is where I always confuse myself--I can't keep the abrasive properties of the green & gray pads firmly fixed in my mind, but the white is the least abrasive by a rather wide margin---in effect it is a polishing medium. They are used in a wide spectrum ranging from metal polishing to musical instruments to gun stocks. They can be substituted for various grades of steel wool and are in many cases superior in use and results.
Frankly I can no longer even imagine trying to cope with rifle revival tasks without them! HTH, Tom
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I believe the Scotch Brite pads are described as follows:
Green: Course Grade
Maroon: Medium Grade
White: Light Duty Grade
Gray: Ultra-fine Grade
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OK guys, gotcha.
We do have stuff like this, and I agree.
PS: I used the stuff once on the wife's Tea Pot. Got real clean by the way, shined like new. You should of heard her cuss for messing up her favorite Tea Pot! I had to buy a new expensive one, and I was no longer allowed to touch anything in the kitchen. She said it will take ages for the Tea to taste good again.
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I just received my F1 Shooting Chrony in the mail last night and put it to use this morning.
My HW 35 is shooting @ an avg of 542.7 fps....Low@ 518,,,High@ 563 fps.
Now I have a Baseline to see Before and After results of cleaning/tuning/repair (if necessary).
Here are the actual results...
1.) 518 fps
2.) 526
3.) 550
4.) 542
5.) 540
6.) 563
7.) 556
8.) 558
9.) 553
10.) 521
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I fixed a broken 35 for a friend last summer, am not at home so can't check performance at the moment.
If you can't get spares you could order in Germany http://translate.google.com/translate?client=tmpg&hl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportwaffen-schneider.de%2Fproducts_new.php&langpair=de (http://translate.google.com/translate?client=tmpg&hl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportwaffen-schneider.de%2Fproducts_new.php&langpair=de)|en a trustworthy company where I bought airgun parts many times in the past (my location is the Netherlands)
A while ago I got a dumpster find from my uncle, brand doesn's matter, but it was rusty too.
Sprayed Balistol on the action, put it in a plastic bag overnight, wiped off most of the rust next day, repeated the procedure and after that used this trick I read about on a Dutch ag board:
I used a coin (old Dutch "cent") to rubb the action down and without re-bluing it looks fair again. Coin made of a brass like alloy that's bright and shiney new but turns dark brown after a while.
Maybe this helps.
Edit: maybe better to click here http://www.sportwaffen-schneider.de/index.php/cPath/40_769_1377_1361 (http://www.sportwaffen-schneider.de/index.php/cPath/40_769_1377_1361) and click the translate button right top afterwards.
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You should of heard her cuss for messing up her favorite Tea Pot!
Er---I'll take a pass on that experience!
My first wife was German.;o)
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You should of heard her cuss for messing up her favorite Tea Pot!
Er---I'll take a pass on that experience!
My first wife was German.;o)
I smile big time now!
I am the German....my wife was an Ohio girl. Tough as nails. I miss her!
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@Redharris, your numbers appear to me to be fairly normal for a standard air gun for German Specs.
I would assume the internals are OK. Still not a bad idea to check things out inside and lubricate to make sure.
I am interested in hearing what your plans are for the outside surface???
This is the reason for your post, correct?
Here is a pic from what my similar, old Diana 35 turned out after rust removal and polishing.
Yours may look similar, after some work.
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@ Airnutz.....
I plan to tear this gun down and inspect/fix/replace as necessary. There is enough rust on the Outside, that I suspect there may be rust on the Inside too.
I wanted to Chrony the gun to see how it was working, before tearing into it. Now that I have done That,,,,I need to tear this thing down and inspect it. I also need to get my hands on some Balistol (I will try that first) to help with cleaning and rust removal. I will also have to find a source for seals (I am using Hardware Store O-rings for the Barrel Seal at the moment ???). I may be able to make my own leather Pump Seal,,,,if I cannot buy one somewhere.
Finally, after I accomplish all of the above and the rifle shoots like it should, I will do my best to refinish the Steel portions of the gun, and make it beautiful again......
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I fixed a broken 35 for a friend last summer, am not at home so can't check performance at the moment.
If you can't get spares you could order in Germany http://translate.google.com/translate?client=tmpg&hl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportwaffen-schneider.de%2Fproducts_new.php&langpair=de (http://translate.google.com/translate?client=tmpg&hl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sportwaffen-schneider.de%2Fproducts_new.php&langpair=de)|en a trustworthy company where I bought airgun parts many times in the past (my location is the Netherlands)
A while ago I got a dumpster find from my uncle, brand doesn's matter, but it was rusty too.
Sprayed Balistol on the action, put it in a plastic bag overnight, wiped off most of the rust next day, repeated the procedure and after that used this trick I read about on a Dutch ag board:
I used a coin (old Dutch "cent") to rubb the action down and without re-bluing it looks fair again. Coin made of a brass like alloy that's bright and shiney new but turns dark brown after a while.
Maybe this helps.
Edit: maybe better to click here http://www.sportwaffen-schneider.de/index.php/cPath/40_769_1377_1361 (http://www.sportwaffen-schneider.de/index.php/cPath/40_769_1377_1361) and click the translate button right top afterwards.
Thanks Brutuz.......Thats a useful Link.
I still have much research to do regarding parts, (What parts I need, where I might GET them, etc....) If I can't find local (USA) distributors, then I may have to go to the Source in Germany...
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@ Airnutz.....
I plan to tear this gun down and inspect/fix/replace as necessary. There is enough rust on the Outside, that I suspect there may be rust on the Inside too.
I wanted to Chrony the gun to see how it was working, before tearing into it. Now that I have done That,,,,I need to tear this thing down and inspect it. I also need to get my hands on some Balistol (I will try that first) to help with cleaning and rust removal. I will also have to find a source for seals (I am using Hardware Store O-rings for the Barrel Seal at the moment ???). I may be able to make my own leather Pump Seal,,,,if I cannot buy one somewhere.
Finally, after I accomplish all of the above and the rifle shoots like it should, I will do my best to refinish the Steel portions of the gun, and make it beautiful again......
ARH (http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251488.htm (http://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251488.htm)) has synthetic breech seals, and tune kits for the HW35. They are very good. Pyramid Ayr also has springs, and delrin rear spring guides. As I rebuilt the one I had, I made a leather breech seal using leather punches. If you have a leather piston seal, I sent you instructions on how to make one for your HW35. If you have a cobbler near you, you can find scraps of leather to use. If not, an old leather belt will also work.
Mark
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Redharris, the parts for the gun will be no problem. Guaranteed. Also, there is probably a coat of some kind of lubricant on the inside of the tube, I will almost bet rust is not a problem in there.
I will soon post pics to encourage you on achieving your goal. I just completed my re-bluing project and I cannot believe the results!
The parts are readily available, go in there and replace them for a small amount of cash, and I hope for you lots of satisfaction.
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@ Airnutz.....
Finally, after I accomplish all of the above and the rifle shoots like it should, I will do my best to refinish the Steel portions of the gun, and make it beautiful again......
Redharris, just for some info, here are a few pics of what you may expect when you get to it.
Greetings.
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http://www.evaporust.com/ (http://www.evaporust.com/)
I swear by this stuff I have used it to soak a totally siezed old two stroke engine till it freed up. Used that motor to do holes for an entire fenceline and it still runs today.
It will remove the rust and the bluing as well I think. I would look for a local gunsmith that does hot bluing and when the tanks heated for another job they might reblue the action for a decent price with you doing all the polish and prep work. The pits will be a problem no matter how you go.
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I just received my F1 Shooting Chrony in the mail last night and put it to use this morning.
My HW 35 is shooting @ an avg of 542.7 fps....Low@ 518,,,High@ 563 fps.
Now I have a Baseline to see Before and After results of cleaning/tuning/repair (if necessary).
Here are the actual results...
1.) 518 fps
2.) 526
3.) 550
4.) 542
5.) 540
6.) 563
7.) 556
8.) 558
9.) 553
10.) 521
Red.....I will bet that after a good cleaning, deburr, and a new spring and lube you will do much better. I also replaced the original metal rear spring guide with a delrin guide that I got from PA. I also got the spring from there. I kept the original leather piston seal, and replaced the breach seal with new leather. When I sold the gun, it was shooting CPHPs between 740 and 750 fps.
Mark
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As far as rust and blue remover goes, I had great success with Tetra Gun Blue and Rust Remover. Just apply with a cotton swab, wait two minutes and rub it off. Blank metal looks you right in the eyes.
As far as the pits go, I had on the barrel a couple of very small dings, like pinhead indentations. Now, with the re-bluing and Ballistol I really cannot see the things readily anymore. You really have to hunt for them. So, Redharris, pits or not, the gun will look pretty decent when done right.
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As far as rust and blue remover goes, I had great success with Tetra Gun Blue and Rust Remover. Just apply with a cotton swab, wait two minutes and rub it off. Blank metal looks you right in the eyes.
As far as the pits go, I had on the barrel a couple of very small dings, like pinhead indentations. Now, with the re-bluing and Ballistol I really cannot see the things readily anymore. You really have to hunt for them. So, Redharris, pits or not, the gun will look pretty decent when done right.
Wow- that's looking beautiful! :)
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@lizzie, thanks so much.
I would only like to encourage Redharris to continue with his project. I personally am very pleased with my efforts for restoring a Vintage Diana 35, and a Weihrauch that still shoots is worth every measure to make it gleam again.
Hey, I have an idea. Yes, maybe if Redharris is too tired, he can send the old girl to me?
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I had exactly the same gun in the same condition. If you want to do the work and bear the expense then have fun. But, from my experience from a financial point of view just buy a new one. This particular HW is heavy, long, and no great shakes in the power or accuracy department. It is always going to be an old wreck tarted up unless you spend an awful lot of cash and then it wont be your friend's Dad's gun any more. The most you can say is it will be a good training ground for you if you think you need it but watch out for escalating costs.
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But, from my experience from a financial point of view just buy a new one. This particular HW is heavy, long, and no great shakes in the power or accuracy department. It is always going to be an old wreck tarted up unless you spend an awful lot of cash....
I have to wonder about this, and I disagree. Restoring the gun, will cost next to nothing if done yourself. The few parts that may be needed are not costly. Many in Germany think this is probably one of the very best air guns ever made. With a suitable spring they can produce very good power. Accuracy? Well get a Match Rifle if you want super accuracy.
An older hag that performs, is better than a young tart that doesn't know jack shoot, in my personal opinion.
But hey, I am a senior citizen, what do I know?
I say save it, freshen the gun up, have fun and be proud.
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"I say save it, freshen the gun up, have fun and be proud."
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+2117! ;D
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Just note this from my personal experience refurbing the same gun in the same condition:
A new spring + top hat + spring guide will cost more than the gun is worth. I fitted a V-Mach kit and was impressed with the quality.
Re blueing will cost several times what the gun is worth.
Any attempt to up the power will produce a maniac of a gun and will be impossible in an HW35 because the cylinder is only just long enough to accommodate the spring so preloading of any sort is out as the gun wont cock.
You don't need a spring compressor because the factory preload is low and a towel over the end cap while unscrewing is perfectly safe on this gun.
You will find assembling the barrel back onto the cylinder is difficult because of those "dang" shims which will not go where they are supposed to while you are trying hold the barrel latch in place at the same time.
Removing the trigger by knocking out the two holding pins is easy as is putting it back but stop there and clean the trigger assembly by dunking in alcohol followed by a very light oiling. The trigger is the best part of the gun.
I chucked away the leather washer and had the piston modified to take the new plastic version. Waste of money. No appreciable power or smoothness increase and this alone cost more than the gun was worth.
If the gun is in that shape because of damp then the stock might use some gentle drying. If it splits stop there because a new one costs more than the gun is worth.
If the front sight elements are missing you will have to buy the whole front sight assembly unless you are real lucky and drop on some second hand. The sight elements are out of stock at my only known supplier with no new ones expected. This costs as much as the gun is worth.
My advice is take the thing apart and clean out all the gunk and solidified grease and put it back together. You will learn and gain confidence.
If "freshening" a gun means a wipe over with an oily rag then OK but no more.
Under no circumstance be seduced into modifying the transfer port on this gun.
Hindsight is 20/20.
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@the long post above;
I may be mistaken, but the essence of this thread is getting rid of the rust, and letting the gun shoot again.
New "spring kits" of course cost money, re-blueing also if sent out to be done.
A piston seal and some oil and lube and a smaller type spring cost about zilch.
I believe the OP just wants to get the thing shooting again, and looking nice to boot...
and not making a high-powered monster out of it.
I very recently did the same to a Vintage Diana 35, the thing looks fantastic, and shoots like new. It cost me about $30.
Oooops, I forgot to add....this is the Vintage Forum by the way. We try to save stuff.
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@the long post above;
I may be mistaken, but the essence of this thread is getting rid of the rust, and letting the gun shoot again.
New "spring kits" of course cost money, re-blueing also if sent out to be done.
A piston seal and some oil and lube and a smaller type spring cost about zilch.
I believe the OP just wants to get the thing shooting again, and looking nice to boot...
and not making a high-powered monster out of it.
I very recently did the same to a Vintage Diana 35, the thing looks fantastic, and shoots like new. It cost me about $30.
Oooops, I forgot to add....this is the Vintage Forum by the way. We try to save stuff.
Airmutz is right on target......
The value of this rifle is more sentimental than monetary.
I have no plans to pour money into this gun.
I have already un-Gunked the trigger and gotten it shooting again.
The next step is disassembly, inspection, re-lube and maybe a new set of seals.
If it shoots decently, I'll take it all apart again and re-blue the gun myself.
All of this is mostly just time and effort. I don't think it will cost me a ton of money.
When I'm done, I will be Happy to hand the gun over to one of my Best Friends',,,,whose Father was a friend and Mentor to me in my youth. The reward will come when we shoot it in the back yard and reminisce about Old Times.
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8)
I have stated already, and many have also experienced the pleasure of getting a rusty piece going again.
Very satisfying, and more power to you.
May I say, I've found such enjoyment in restoring the older gems, that I have my eyes on various Anschuetz, Walther, WH's and cool old Dianas on eGun, that I am really beginning to enjoy my new retirement hobby....and might I add, passion.
Lots of old guns out there with lots of character embedded, and I love it.
Greetings.
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RedHarris said:When I'm done, I will be Happy to hand the gun over to one of my Best Friends',,,,whose Father was a friend and Mentor to me in my youth. The reward will come when we shoot it in the back yard and reminisce about Old Times.
Bulls-eye! That's what it's all about.