GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: yote300wsm on September 20, 2010, 03:35:09 AM
-
The library keeps sending me home. I'm looking for plans for a (portable) spring compressor. I have both spring and nitro-piston rifles. Any help would be great!! Thanks.
-
See if this helps Thanks David http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?PHPSESSID=63b46e4c0f928dd66dad6537352158fd;www;action=library (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?PHPSESSID=63b46e4c0f928dd66dad6537352158fd;www;action=library)
-
Ill track down the pics of mine and see if I can find the threads on the old forum with mine Jay's and some others spring compressors. They are easy to build and cost about 50 bucks. You should be able to google search spring compressors and have a few examples come up.
-
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/index.php/topic,24718.0.html (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/index.php/topic,24718.0.html)
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/index.php/topic,24918.0.html (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/index.php/topic,24918.0.html)
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/index.php/topic,24920.0.html (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/index.php/topic,24920.0.html)
Here are 3 links to the old forum.
-
This one cost me less than $15. Basically the cost of a bar clamp. Simple but it works great.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/perrycl/Springcompressor2-1.jpg)
-
Perry -- what's the 'biner for?
-
Perry, that looks like precisely the type of compressor I could see myself building, since you made it so basic and strong.
Exactly how did you put it together (details like hole diameter and location in the wood and distance between the vertical wood blocks), and was that screw clamp already part of the clamp as you bought it?
I would love to do a basic tune on my Gamos, and this looks so simple that even I could do it.
-
Here's my compressor adjustable to any shooter and has tuned many shooter's. I took my design from Gene's when I was working in his shop with him. Ed
-
Here are a couple more pics of the spring compressor. The bottom board is a 2X6 as well as the blocks. The blocks are screwed into the bottom of the board. All three of my springers have shrouded barrels that have a diameter of about one inch so the smaller hole was drilled into the first block using a 1" bit at the same height of the end of the bar clamp. The other block was cut in half and a hinge was installed so it can open up. The hole is 1 1/2" with a groove cut out for the cocking arm to fit. The hole was drilled first before cutting the block in half and is also the same height as the clamp screw. As you can see, I also cut grooves into the blocks at the bottom so the bar clamp will be held down tight onto the platform with an additional block at the end enabling the bar clamp to be adjusted. Finally I drilled a hole in the clamp handle and inserted a stainless steel dowel to help when tightening the clamp but it isn't really necessary.
Warren, the carabiner is used to secure the hinged block down on the action for safety reasons but isn't visible in the pics below. I have a piece of string keeping the block held down.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/perrycl/DSC00001-1-1-1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v235/perrycl/DSC00002-1.jpg)
-
Thanks for the extra information, Perry.
I'm saving the information to make one for myself once I get a chance to run down to my local Lowe's for the parts.
I suppose it's about time to check out Maccari's site to figure out exactly what I need for replacement seals.
I intend to do only the seals for my .22 CFX, since it is a gas ram, and that is working just fine.
The .177 CFX is definitely showing some telltale signs of wear, as evidenced by significantly slower MV on the Chrony, so I will probably give it the full treatment, although I would prefer to discard the spring in it for a gas ram as well.
I was looking at the Theoben replacement rams that David Slade sells at http://www.airgunwerks.com (http://www.airgunwerks.com) for $145, but I don't know if he ships them directly, and I'm unsure what modifications are necessary to install one.
Didn't longislandarcher do this exact same thing with both of his CFXs?
-
Looks simple enough. Anyone have any pics of it in use ???
-
Looks like a nice simple and effective design Perry! I might just have to make one like that. :) How is the clamp fastened to the whole thing ?
-
It's a VERY simple design that doesn't take long at all to build and works great.
The clamp is held down by the two blocks being screwed down to the base.
-
Perry - you're a genius. What a slick design.
-
It's a VERY simple design that doesn't take long at all to build and works great.
The clamp is held down by the two blocks being screwed down to the base.
Do you find that the clamp slides horizontally at all ? Or is there enough downward pressure to hold it securely in place? Was just curious what was keeping it from sliding back and forth because I see the blocks holding it down from the top, was just wondering what was keeping it from slipping forward or backwards.
-
I'm not quite sure I understand your question.
Why would it slide forward, backwards, or side to side?
If used correctly, there is no force that would cause the clamp to move. The clamp does all the work, the action goes through the holes and the clamp is tightened. The calmp is all you really need to release the tension of the spring, the blocks are there to prevent the action from slipping loose when force is applied and the platform is there to hold the blocks in place.
-
I'm not quite sure I understand your question.
Why would it slide forward, backwards, or side to side?
If used correctly, there is no force that would cause the clamp to move. The clamp does all the work, the action goes through the holes and the clamp is tightened. The calmp is all you really need to release the tension of the spring, the blocks are there to prevent the action from slipping loose when force is applied and the platform is there to hold the blocks in place.
Sorry if my question is a bit unclear. I guess what I mean is, I was wondering how the entire clamp setup was secured to the base board. From the pictures it appears that it is just held in place by downward pressure and friction from the vertical standing blocks but on the ends of the entire clamp fixture it doesn't appear that anything is blocking it from sliding on the base forward or backwards. I assume the pressure from the vertical blocks must be sufficient though because you said it works really well. I was just curious because I am planning on building a spring compressor soon and I really like the simplicity of your design. I am just trying to wrap my head around how it all fits together. If you ever are bored and feel like posting some more close up pictures of it at different angles that would be awesome! Thanks for the great post by the way!
-
This one is home made:
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?PHPSESSID=feba98dda2018a69db080e2b35f3840b&topic=2701.0 (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?PHPSESSID=feba98dda2018a69db080e2b35f3840b&topic=2701.0)
John
hmm that link just sends me back to this post.
-
Lochlainn, yes the downward pressure from screwing the blocks down on the platform really secures the clamp very tight and snug.
-
Lochlainn, yes the downward pressure from screwing the blocks down on the platform really secures the clamp very tight and snug.
Thanks for the reply Perry ! Was just curious :)
-
John, that may work but it can also be very dangerous if the action slips out of the clamp.
-
Here are a couple more pics of the spring compressor. The bottom board is a 2X6 as well as the blocks. The blocks are screwed into the bottom of the board. All three of my springers have shrouded barrels that have a diameter of about one inch so the smaller hole was drilled into the first block using a 1" bit at the same height of the end of the bar clamp. The other block was cut in half and a hinge was installed so it can open up. The hole is 1 1/2" with a groove cut out for the cocking arm to fit. The hole was drilled first before cutting the block in half and is also the same height as the clamp screw. As you can see, I also cut grooves into the blocks at the bottom so the bar clamp will be held down tight onto the platform with an additional block at the end enabling the bar clamp to be adjusted. Finally I drilled a hole in the clamp handle and inserted a stainless steel dowel to help when tightening the clamp but it isn't really necessary.
Warren, the carabiner is used to secure the hinged block down on the action for safety reasons but isn't visible in the pics below. I have a piece of string keeping the block held down.
Okay, I used Perry's basic idea to make a version of my own.
It's not perfect, and I am pretty sure I will have to make some small modifications, such as cutting a groove in the right hand upright block for the cocking arm.
One thing I did to modify it was to cut the left hand block, then add a hinge and hasp to it, as with the right, to facilitate inserting the rifle without having to remove the front sight assembly.
As you can see, I already have two carabiners to keep both hasps secured.
It's a bit crooked and certainly not as pretty as Perry's, but I am eager to use it for the first time.
(http://i1239.photobucket.com/albums/ff504/pinkold/Spring_Compressor.jpg)
Total board length - 40"
Right side of board to right side of right upright - 14.75"
Distance between uprights - 16.5"
Anyway, I will be using this pretty soon to do a complete tune and seal job on my .177 Gamo CFX, which is definitely showing signs of being sick.
The most obvious indicator is that the muzzle velocity for the JSB Exact has declined from 750fps to 600fps.
And, yes, both of my Gamos wear Bob's magnificent gold trigger, so they are both tunable.
I just have some questions for those of you who may have done this job on the CFX.
1) What exact parts do I need from Jiim Maccari, including the seal for the transfer port?
2) What additional hand tools will I need for this, such as polishing stones, pin punches, etc?
3) Are there detailed instructions here or elsewhere to explain each step for tuning the CFX, especially that tricky transfer port seal?
4) Since I also have a gas ram CFX in .22 caliber, is it any different to do the tune only on it and keep the ram?
5) I assume I will also need some lubricants especially formulated for airguns, so what will I need, and can I get them from Maccari, or is there a better (i.e. cheaper) source?
6) What special little tricks specific to the CFX are there that you gurus might know?
7) Is there anything else I should know or need for this job?
Thanks, guys.
-
Nice work! Looks great :D
-
oldpink, it looks like it will do the job!
Let us know how it works after you get your CFX in there.
-
Thanks, guys.
I just need to get a ton of info before.
I believe LongIslandArcher is at least one guy who has some good information on the CFX.
-
Here's one I made. Safe and simple. The central block is split horizontally, for access to action. ;)
(http://i363.photobucket.com/albums/oo80/willis61/SPRINGCOMPRESSOR.jpg)