GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: clip on September 19, 2010, 11:50:49 PM
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As you know, the RX2 is a hard shooter. I have a Hawke 4-16X50 AO on mine and I cannot find a way to keep the scope from slipping back in the rings. I have a one-piece mount that seems to stay where I put it but the scope slides in the rings. It's moved back about 1 inch after firing 20 rounds. There's tape inside both rings and all screws are snugged down and LocTited but that doesn't stop it from moving. I'm sure others have had the same trouble with sliding scopes so I could use any ideas y'all may have to stop this.
Thanks,
Larry
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Larry, you might try to degrease with alcohol the scope tube and rings, tighten the rings even tighter, or apply a little adhesive to the inside of the rings or switch to a different one piece or rings. If it's sliding as much as you say(1" in 20 shots) it would almost seem that you are not getting the rings close to being tight. I've heard of defective rings that wouldn't hold a scope regardless of how tight you snug it down but your sliding is extreme. Almost like 30mm rings for a 1" scope. Usually when I've seen a scope slide in rings the scope moved forward and not backward. I'm scratching my head on this one.
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Rubber cement works pretty good. Nothing has moved yet on my .35 Whelen or 300 win-mag.
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Clip, I have a lengthy description of this exact same phenomenon happening to me.
It took me over a year to find a definitive solution, but I can let you know what I tried and what I finally did.
Also, to start, I did not have the scope slipping within the rings until I had my .22 Gamo CFX's stock spring replaced with an Air Venturi (now Crosman Nitro Piston) gas ram.
The recoil was very sharp, causing my scope to skid visibly rearward in the rings with each shot, even though the rings had four screws per ring clamp, I had degreased all contacting surfaces (scope itself and the entire ring assemblies), and had used the necessary blue Loc-Tite on all screws.
I was using the B-Square aluminum rings on the stock aluminum 11mm rail, and - yes - I had engaged the recoil pins for both rings in the matching holes in the rail.
1) The first thing I tried was to use some tennis racquet grip tape inside the rings to stop the skid, which worked, but my zero wandered badly due to the tiny amount of flexibility of the tape.
2) I discarded the tape, coating the ring contact surfaces with some blue RTV, in the hope that it would grip the scope surface without the lateral movement.
3) The RTV allowed the scope to once again slip rearward, so I removed the RTV, then applied a coat of the "Plasti-Dip" toolhandle coating. I also discovered that the recoil pin holes in the 11mm aluminum rail were badly deforming from the recoil pins.
4) The Plasti-Dip also completely failed to stop the slippage, so I finally decided to completely discard my scope mounting system for a Weaver type setup, the details of which will follow:
Sun Optics 11mm to Weaver adapter - http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-11mm-12mm-Dovetail-Weaver/dp/B0029NGBU4/ref=cm_cr-mr-title (http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-11mm-12mm-Dovetail-Weaver/dp/B0029NGBU4/ref=cm_cr-mr-title)
Beeman scope stop - https://www.pyramydair.com/product/beeman-scope-stop?a=688 (https://www.pyramydair.com/product/beeman-scope-stop?a=688)
Leupold steel PRW Weaver style rings - http://www.amazon.com/Leupold-54144-PRW-1-in-Low/dp/B0013R8GM8/ref=sr_1_1?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284855727&sr=8-1 (http://www.amazon.com/Leupold-54144-PRW-1-in-Low/dp/B0013R8GM8/ref=sr_1_1?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284855727&sr=8-1)
I first removed the rings, then completely removed the 11mm aluminum rail, leaving the bare steel receiver with its integral grooves and recoil stop hole.
Since I wanted to offset my scope forward slightly and because I wanted a larger diameter recoil stop pin, I mounted the Beeman scope stop first, engaging the stop hole in the top of the steel receiver. You may not have to even bother with the Beeman stop, instead using the stop screw in the adapter itself, though.
I then attached the Sun Optics 11mm to Weaver adapter, firmly tightening all four clamp screws after I had ensured that the rear of it was resting against the scope stop.
I then clamped the Leupold PRW rings to the Weaver adapter in the appropriate slot positions, then mounted the scope in the rings themselves.
At last, the scope does not slip at all, does not flex, and the whole system does not deform from the recoil, since it is the tried and true and super reliable Weaver base/ring system.
Naturally, I degreased the entire 11mm to Weaver adapter, the scope stop, rings, and scope itself, then applied the blue Loc-Tite to all screws.
My zero stays rock solid, and I am back to plopping five JSB exacts inside 0.44" @ 25 yards.
I have determined that aluminum rings are very poor for clamping a scope due to their relative elasticity versus the considerably greater rigidity of steel, and the fact that my scope slip woes ended at once after I had clamped it up in those stout steel Leupold rings.
I also no longer have to worry about the recoil on the rings deforming my rail, since this is not a crummy screw hole in an aluminum rail, instead being a massive Weaver recoil lug/groove system.
I believe your RX2 has an 11mm grooved receiver, so this system should work just fine for you.
Also, since you are using a scope with a 50mm objective, you may want to go with the medium height rings, since my scope has a 40mm objective in the low rings I chose.
Here are the mediums - http://www.amazon.com/Leupold-PRW-1-in-Medium-Matte/dp/B0002IMUNK/ref=sr_1_5?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284992403&sr=8-5 (http://www.amazon.com/Leupold-PRW-1-in-Medium-Matte/dp/B0002IMUNK/ref=sr_1_5?s=gateway&ie=UTF8&qid=1284992403&sr=8-5)
Good luck, and please let us know how it works out for you.
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I usually mount the scope and gripping the short end I tighten the screws in an x pattern snug one then the other back and forth until all four screws per scope ring are tight then I let it sit while I get the range set up, about 20 min or so. Then I check the screws again and after about 10-15 rounds chack them again. Until I cannot tighten them with just the finger and thumb. I still take my allen wrenches every time I go shoot and check the screws before I start to shoot. Works out pretty good and is really important after shimming a scope until the shims settle in. I started this pattern after getting my 350 cause as we all know those things can shake a scope.
Good luck and let us know how you fixed it.
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Onebaddj, that screw tightening pattern is always good advice, but it did nothing for me with the B-Square aluminum rings, even when I had the ring clamp screws bottomed out.
Only the beefy steel Leupold rings halted the skid, although I definitely used the x pattern for the ring clamps.
The common denominator between Clip and myself is that we are both using gas ram guns, and gas rams take the recoil thing up to a whole new level over even the mighty 350.
I know that for a fact, since my identical in all ways except caliber (.177) and powerplant (stock spring) Gamo CFX has no problem at all using the exact same aluminum B-Square rings and the heavier Centerpoint 4-12x40mm scope, which should be more likely to slip in the rings than the lighter 3-9x40mm Centerpoint in my gas ram .22 CFX.
It's all about that brisk recoil from the gas ram that turns the scope into a sled.
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I used an "industrial" strength 2-sided tape inside my rings.
http://www.findtape.com/product319/JVCC-DCC-3R-Premium-Double-Coated-Black-Carpet-Tape.aspx?SSAID=136211. (http://www.findtape.com/product319/JVCC-DCC-3R-Premium-Double-Coated-Black-Carpet-Tape.aspx?SSAID=136211.)
Problem is - I see they don't have any right now. You have to watch the thickness a little - around 10 or 12 ml is about right. (some of the foam tapes are 50-90 ml) Anyways - it solved the problem on my NPSS.
Another problem is most scope mfgs recommend only 25 inch pounds torque maximum when tightening the screws down. You can crush the tube. They never had a gas piston gun! Here's an inexpensive torque wrench
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=718023 (http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=718023)
Mark
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Thanks, fellas for all the input concerning my situation. OldPink..I think your idea may be a good solution to my problem especially since you seemed to have had the same trouble at one time. I've placed an order for the mount and rings. It's gonna take awhile for them to reach me but I'll let you know how everything works out when I get them installed. Thanks
Larry
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Thanks, fellas for all the input concerning my situation. OldPink..I think your idea may be a good solution to my problem especially since you seemed to have had the same trouble at one time. I've placed an order for the mount and rings. It's gonna take awhile for them to reach me but I'll let you know how everything works out when I get them installed. Thanks
Larry
Glad to have been of help, and I will be watching for how it works out for you.
If you have any other questions about it, I would be eager to give answers.
One thing I can say is that you should definitely shoot it over one hundred times or so after you get the whole rig mounted and sighted in properly, then recheck your zero to verify it stays constant.
Naturally, during that shoot, you should also periodically examine it all to look for anything that might have moved.
Those stout Leupold rings are the real solution for this situation.
Also, you are one lucky dog to have that RX2, a fine rifle that, and not something you just casually pay for, too.
Good luck!