GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Wood Chop Shop (Working with wood) => Topic started by: Airik on January 11, 2012, 08:38:46 PM
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What are the perks of each? I'm only speaking of spray can stuff. I've read that a high gloss lacquer can provide more of a shiny/clear coat (I'm going for mirror), but that polyurethane is more durable, but with a "plastic" look.
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A lacquer finish can be very glossy, but can chip and scratch easily...and is very difficult to touch up. A few coats of clear oil finish...such Tru-Oil ....buffed lightly with 0000 steel wool between coats, will give you a very glossy finish, is very durable, and can be touched up by buffing and applying another coat. Although it doesn't dry as fast as lacquer, it is ready for full use in 24 hours.
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Has anybody used Minwax Polycrylic? - I'm also curious about this product. I'll be using Minwax oil based stain and finally decided on either Minwax fast drying spray polyurethane or Minwax Polycrylic, both in gloss. What's everybody's experience with these products, and are they compatible with oil based stain? Thanks.
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The polycrylic is water based and as such can raise the grain bad with the first coat or two. It dries water clear compared to the usual slightly yellow or orange of an oil based poly. The water based will also take about 50% more coats to get the same build up and protection. But you can recoat much sooner. Lightly sanding between coats, IMO, is one of the big secrets to getting a nice finish. Don't worry too much about low spots, but high spots caused by specks and debris must be sanded out between coats. But don't cut thru to the stain. Sand between every coat, and then like Smackey said, finish with some 0000 steel wool and your favorite paste wax or oil or whatever you like as the final finish.
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Thanks, guys, for the responses. I've learned a lot using the Search and Library features on this GTA, and also Google and Ask.com. I'll be writing a detailed thread sometime in this child gate after I get the stock finished with the process that I will have used on the Storm XT. I also have a one-off two tone idea, that involves masking and a flame pattern (red chestnut & ebony stains) that I'm sure you folks will absolutely love on the Benjamin Titan GP's stock :)
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P.S. Another quick question: Can I use an automotive wax, like, say, Maguiars, on the spray polyurethane finish? - After about 30 days of cure time, I'm assuming?
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P.S. Another quick question: Can I use an automotive wax, like, say, Maguiars, on the spray polyurethane finish? - After about 30 days of cure time, I'm assuming?
Sure, no problem, just remember that if you will have to get every bit of the wax off if you want to put any additional finish coats, or repair the poly or laquer.
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For sure. Thanks, Lloyd.
I hope to never have to do this, to the Storm, again, as it's not a timber hunter - not anytime soon anyways :)
I guess if it does get a dink or scratch, it'll just give her more character, but she'll still be a prettier blonde than she previously was fresh from the factory :)
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I hope we get to see your 2-tone finish when it is done. Guns really can become sculpted and painted works of art. I haven't gotten that far myself.
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I finish my raw laminate Rifle stocks with Hobby Grade finishing EPOXY.
This is a SUPER TOUGH finish that can be high luster or buff pending how you final rub it down.
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I definitely will post pics, Lloyd. Give it a few weeks though.
And, Motorhead, good idea. I'm surprised I never thought of that. I'm familiar with colored epoxy paint, but not clear coats. I'll definitely Google and research that too. Thanks!
I also thought of Rustoleum brand clear spray enamel - Any thoughts for this vs poly? And can I use auto wax on spray enamel? I'm assuming that poly would be better vs enamel?
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I definitely will post pics, Lloyd. Give it a few weeks though.
And, Motorhead, good idea. I'm surprised I never thought of that. I'm familiar with colored epoxy paint, but not clear coats. I'll definitely Google and research that too. Thanks!
I also thought of Rustoleum brand clear spray enamel - Any thoughts for this vs poly? And can I use auto wax on spray enamel? I'm assuming that poly would be better vs enamel?
West Systems or Bob Smith products make the thin finish cure grades. I use the Bob Smith FINISH-CURE™ 20 min
In actual use cure time is actually hours if not overnight pending temp applied. 3-4 coats with light sanding/ steel wool rub downs between coats will yield you one fine looking finish that touches up if nicked or gouged with a daub of epoxy ... go figure ::)
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Hi I use minwax poly gloss finish on my stocks 10 to 12 coats sanded between coats with 400 paper this is the way we used to do yachts , It can be repaired if dinged by just a light sanding with 400 paper and re spray. If you use a trim wood and want it to stand out make sure you cover it with some masking tape before you stain ,after staining I use clear over the stained finish the only tricky part is sanding between coats sometimes you cut through the stain be carefull. also I cover the butt plate too and don't take it off the rifle , when removing the old finish I sand the buttplate along with the stock I take the finish off with 100 grit paper and I don't use paint removers by the time you fool around with a paint remover I can have the stock sanded and the old finish off I use a 4x4 pad sander , I like Lacquer too it finished nice and can be touched up easy ( do not put lacquer over varnish it will make the old finish to wrinkle up.) ( Varnish over lacquer is OK but not lacquer over varnish. ) As far as epoxy it maker a good hard finish and very durable the only drawback is it is not UV safe the UV rays tare up epoxy but I think West system prods have a UV additive for clear apps. I have built a few boats using the West system . I have used oil finished before but I have found it is not as tough as varnishes, we used to do lindseed oil in the Marine corps but when you took the rifle out in the field all day the finish came off from sweat off your hands. Howie1a
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FWIW, I have had very good results using the Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil Stock Refinishing Kit. I prefer the oil finish as it is very easy to repair, if needed, and leaves a nice gloss finish.