GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Xun on January 06, 2025, 09:24:47 PM
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I understand that oiling the metal parts of a gun is important to prevent rust, but I have a few questions about how to do it properly.
1. Internal Metal Parts:
It’s relatively easy to oil the external metal parts, but what about the internal ones? Does every metal component inside the gun need oiling? How do you decide which parts to oil, and won’t leaving some areas unoiled make them prone to rust?
2. Break Barrel Rifles:
For break barrel rifles, the barrel is often handled directly during cocking. Wouldn’t the oil on the barrel just get wiped off over time? Should this part be treated differently?
3. Barrel Bore:
How do you oil the bore of the barrel? Wouldn’t the oil just get wiped off by the pellets or bullets when fired? Is oiling the bore even necessary for an airgun?
4. Type of Oil:
What kind of oil is best for airguns? I’ve seen different recommendations like gun oil, silicone oil, and even non-petroleum-based options. Which one is most effective and safe for preventing rust without causing issues?
I’d appreciate any advice, tips, or product recommendations you could share!
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I understand that oiling the metal parts of a gun is important to prevent rust, but I have a few questions about how to do it properly.
1. Internal Metal Parts:
It’s relatively easy to oil the external metal parts, but what about the internal ones? Does every metal component inside the gun need oiling? How do you decide which parts to oil, and won’t leaving some areas unoiled make them prone to rust?
2. Break Barrel Rifles:
For break barrel rifles, the barrel is often handled directly during cocking. Wouldn’t the oil on the barrel just get wiped off over time? Should this part be treated differently?
3. Barrel Bore:
How do you oil the bore of the barrel? Wouldn’t the oil just get wiped off by the pellets or bullets when fired? Is oiling the bore even necessary for an airgun?
4. Type of Oil:
What kind of oil is best for airguns? I’ve seen different recommendations like gun oil, silicone oil, and even non-petroleum-based options. Which one is most effective and safe for preventing rust without causing issues?
I’d appreciate any advice, tips, or product recommendations you could share!
Personal opinions here
1. Internal Metal Parts:
I only use non-dieseling Krytox GPL205 for all "rubbing parts".............
(https://i.imgur.com/yR0KRn2.jpg)
2. Break Barrel Rifles:
"Wouldn’t the oil on the barrel just get wiped off over time?"
Well, I ALWAYS wipe down the external surfaces after EACH USE so there is no "over time issues"
3. Barrel Bore:
I never oil my barrel bore. I prefer to simply clean the bore whenever the fouling causes the grouping to degrade. Then I pull through a couple patches moistened with RemOil followed by a few dry patches. Then a dozen or so pellets are shot to "season the bore". The grouping will be good for about 1000 shot before needing a re-clean. Of course that all depends on your particular bore and pellet brand being shot. Different pellet brands can be very dirty which causes rapid bore fouling..(https://i.imgur.com/nauCLe1.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/t7myvjG.jpg)
4. Type of Oil: What kind of oil is best for airguns?
Molly bearing lubes have been used for decades with CAREFUL application (will diesel if it gets past the piston seal) but I like non-dieseling Krytox for my break barrel springers. I use the Krytox GPL205 grease except I do occasionally add a drop or two of Krytox GPL105 oil on the barrel pivot rivet or places that can't be easily disassembled............
(https://i.imgur.com/EJSxLJ4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hiAGIrb.png)
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What he said.
With the proviso that Krytox is immiscible with some other oils so clean and degrease your gun before you apply it.
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I understand that oiling the metal parts of a gun is important to prevent rust, but I have a few questions about how to do it properly.
1. Internal Metal Parts:
It’s relatively easy to oil the external metal parts, but what about the internal ones? Does every metal component inside the gun need oiling? How do you decide which parts to oil, and won’t leaving some areas unoiled make them prone to rust?
2. Break Barrel Rifles:
For break barrel rifles, the barrel is often handled directly during cocking. Wouldn’t the oil on the barrel just get wiped off over time? Should this part be treated differently?
3. Barrel Bore:
How do you oil the bore of the barrel? Wouldn’t the oil just get wiped off by the pellets or bullets when fired? Is oiling the bore even necessary for an airgun?
4. Type of Oil:
What kind of oil is best for airguns? I’ve seen different recommendations like gun oil, silicone oil, and even non-petroleum-based options. Which one is most effective and safe for preventing rust without causing issues?
I’d appreciate any advice, tips, or product recommendations you could share!
Personal opinions here
1. Internal Metal Parts:
I only use non-dieseling Krytox GPL205 for all "rubbing parts".............
(https://i.imgur.com/yR0KRn2.jpg)
2. Break Barrel Rifles:
"Wouldn’t the oil on the barrel just get wiped off over time?"
Well, I ALWAYS wipe down the external surfaces after EACH USE so there is no "over time issues"
3. Barrel Bore:
I never oil my barrel bore. I prefer to simply clean the bore whenever the fouling causes the grouping to degrade. Then I pull through a couple patches moistened with RemOil followed by a few dry patches. Then a dozen or so pellets are shot to "season the bore". The grouping will be good for about 1000 shot before needing a re-clean. Of course that all depends on your particular bore and pellet brand being shot. Different pellet brands can be very dirty which causes rapid bore fouling..(https://i.imgur.com/nauCLe1.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/t7myvjG.jpg)
4. Type of Oil: What kind of oil is best for airguns?
Molly bearing lubes have been used for decades with CAREFUL application (will diesel if it gets past the piston seal) but I like non-dieseling Krytox for my break barrel springers. I use the Krytox GPL205 grease except I do occasionally add a drop or two of Krytox GPL105 oil on the barrel pivot rivet or places that can't be easily disassembled............
(https://i.imgur.com/EJSxLJ4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hiAGIrb.png)
I like Krytox a lot as well. It is completely inert and will not ever diesel in a springer because it just will not burn. It's expensive, but a little goes a long way.
After putting 100 to 200 pellets through a new springer, I'll clean the bore that's been fouled due to dieseling of the factory lube with a couple soft cotton patches soaked in Rem-Oil, and then another two dry patches to remove the remaining Rem-Oil because it will diesel right in the barrel if left there. After that, I never clean the bore again.
I've recently been using Birchwood Casey Barricade for (only) external metal surfaces. I apply it and then let it sit overnight to seep into the metal. Then I wipe it off and carefully apply some Rem-Oil on top of it and wipe that off. If I take the airgun out shooting, I'll wipe the surface down with Rem-Oil again afterwards.
On metal to metal surfaces where there is real friction, it's either moly paste or, if it's going to get on my fingers, Krytox grease.
Never use WD-40 for anything other to break rusted bolts free, and be very careful with the Barricade and Rem-Oil, because those lubes will detonate in a springer and likely deteriorate synthetic seals and o-rings.
Silicone oil is good if used very sparingly for the internal rubber or other synthetic seals of pneumatic and C02 guns. Crosman Pellgun oil is good for most CO2 and non-PCP pneumatic airguns. As always, read the manual that came with the air gun.
If anyone out there thinks my advice is wrong, please reply so I don't unknowingly suggest anything that would be incorrect in my post.
-W
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Also, reference the GTA Library on the ring menu. Although many of the links (esp straight shooters) no longer work, it still offers a ton of information across the board.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=library (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=library)
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Oil as a lubricant or as a protectant? The above posts mostly refer to lubrication and give some very good information. About the only point I use oil on my guns is pivoting points. For protection to external parts I prefer WD-40. Wipe down the outside of the barrel with it and remove the stock to get to the hidden areas. It is NOT a lubricant, it is only for protection. I do not use it inside an airgun at all.
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Thank you all for the suggestions!
I should have clarified this earlier — my questions are specifically about rust prevention, not lubrication. Lubrication seems more straightforward since you can see the results right away. Rust prevention, on the other hand, feels more uncertain. It might take months or even years to know if I’ve done it correctly, and by the time rust appears, it could already be too late to fix.
I’m still confused about a few points, so please bear with me if these questions seem very basic:
1. Does every surface of every metal part need to be oiled? For example, what about internal components like trigger assemblies? Should I disassemble each part to oil each surface individually, or apply oil between the parts without full disassembly, or is it acceptable to leave some areas untreated?
2. Some moving parts also require lubrication. How do rust-prevention oils and lubricants work together? Should they be used separately, or can/should they coexist in certain areas?
3. I’ve come across products like Ballistol and Rem-Oil. Does anyone have experience with these for rust prevention?
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Thank you all for the suggestions!
I should have clarified this earlier — my questions are specifically about rust prevention, not lubrication. Lubrication seems more straightforward since you can see the results right away. Rust prevention, on the other hand, feels more uncertain. It might take months or even years to know if I’ve done it correctly, and by the time rust appears, it could already be too late to fix.
I’m still confused about a few points, so please bear with me if these questions seem very basic:
1. Does every surface of every metal part need to be oiled? For example, what about internal components like trigger assemblies? Should I disassemble each part to oil each surface individually, or apply oil between the parts without full disassembly, or is it acceptable to leave some areas untreated?
2. Some moving parts also require lubrication. How do rust-prevention oils and lubricants work together? Should they be used separately, or can/should they coexist in certain areas?
3. I’ve come across products like Ballistol and Rem-Oil. Does anyone have experience with these for rust prevention?
I think if you read all the previous responses carefully, all your questions will be answered.
-W
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What he said.
With the proviso that Krytox is immiscible with some other oils so clean and degrease your gun before you apply it.
Good point about the "incompatibility" of petroleum based lubes and synthetic Krytox. I do wonder about the importance of this in spring guns because this issue pertains to "high speed bearings" and I don't consider springers to be "high speed bearings". The main issue with mixing "Petro Lubes" with Krytox is that the Petro Lubes" in the mix will fail first which then degrades the Krytox. Here are a couple Krytox related articles........
(https://i.imgur.com/6zcKAEd.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/vdguI7B.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y2Dbdu3.png)
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Thank you all for the suggestions!
I should have clarified this earlier — my questions are specifically about rust prevention, not lubrication. Lubrication seems more straightforward since you can see the results right away. Rust prevention, on the other hand, feels more uncertain. It might take months or even years to know if I’ve done it correctly, and by the time rust appears, it could already be too late to fix.
I’m still confused about a few points, so please bear with me if these questions seem very basic:
1. Does every surface of every metal part need to be oiled? For example, what about internal components like trigger assemblies? Should I disassemble each part to oil each surface individually, or apply oil between the parts without full disassembly, or is it acceptable to leave some areas untreated?
2. Some moving parts also require lubrication. How do rust-prevention oils and lubricants work together? Should they be used separately, or can/should they coexist in certain areas?
3. I’ve come across products like Ballistol and Rem-Oil. Does anyone have experience with these for rust prevention?
I think if you read all the previous responses carefully, all your questions will be answered.
-W
I truly appreciate all the posts and the effort everyone has put into sharing their insights. I've tried to read everything carefully, but I still feel a bit confused, so I’m asking again for clarification. It’s probably due to my lack of experience in this area — something that might seem obvious to others isn’t always clear to me.
After going through everything again, here’s what I think:
1. Does every surface of every metal part need to be oiled? For example, what about internal components like trigger assemblies? Should I disassemble each part to oil each surface individually, or apply oil between the parts without full disassembly, or is it acceptable to leave some areas untreated?
A few of you mentioned applying specific lubricants to certain internal areas, which appears to me that preventative oiling might not be necessary internally. However, Roadworthy mentioned removing the stock to oil hidden areas. If external surfaces require oiling for protection, why wouldn’t internal parts also need it? Are they at a lower risk of rusting?
2. Some moving parts also require lubrication. How do rust-prevention oils and lubricants work together? Should they be used separately, or can/should they coexist in certain areas?
It seems like the general consensus is to use one or the other, but I’d appreciate any further clarification.
3. I’ve come across products like Ballistol and Rem-Oil. Does anyone have experience with these for rust prevention?
I noticed that you mentioned Rem-Oil several times, but I was hoping for a comparison between it, Ballistol, and Krytox. From what I’ve gathered, Krytox seems more focused on lubrication — is that correct?
Thanks again for your input!
-
Thank you all for the suggestions!
I should have clarified this earlier — my questions are specifically about rust prevention, not lubrication. Lubrication seems more straightforward since you can see the results right away. Rust prevention, on the other hand, feels more uncertain. It might take months or even years to know if I’ve done it correctly, and by the time rust appears, it could already be too late to fix.
I’m still confused about a few points, so please bear with me if these questions seem very basic:
1. Does every surface of every metal part need to be oiled? For example, what about internal components like trigger assemblies? Should I disassemble each part to oil each surface individually, or apply oil between the parts without full disassembly, or is it acceptable to leave some areas untreated?
2. Some moving parts also require lubrication. How do rust-prevention oils and lubricants work together? Should they be used separately, or can/should they coexist in certain areas?
3. I’ve come across products like Ballistol and Rem-Oil. Does anyone have experience with these for rust prevention?
I think if you read all the previous responses carefully, all your questions will be answered.
-W
I truly appreciate all the posts and the effort everyone has put into sharing their insights. I've tried to read everything carefully, but I still feel a bit confused, so I’m asking again for clarification. It’s probably due to my lack of experience in this area — something that might seem obvious to others isn’t always clear to me.
After going through everything again, here’s what I think:
1. Does every surface of every metal part need to be oiled? For example, what about internal components like trigger assemblies? Should I disassemble each part to oil each surface individually, or apply oil between the parts without full disassembly, or is it acceptable to leave some areas untreated?
Unless you're highly experienced or skilled, I wouldn't take any airgun apart to lubricate it. Unless it's an older vintage airgun, it should have adequate lubrication on the internal mechanisms, such as the trigger. Sometimes just a thin coating of moly grease or Krytox grease applied to the barrel or cocking lever detent and accessible linkages will make cocking the gun easier and smoother. If the airgun feels very rough to cock after 10-20 shots, return it for a refund or exchange.
A few of you mentioned applying specific lubricants to certain internal areas, which appears to me that preventative oiling might not be necessary internally. However, Roadworthy mentioned removing the stock to oil hidden areas. If external surfaces require oiling for protection, why wouldn’t internal parts also need it? Are they at a lower risk of rusting?
Roadworthy is an expert, so it is safe for him to do things that other air gun owners probably should not attempt. In my experience, internal parts in new air guns are already coated with lube and prust protection. Removing the stock is usually a simple process, but I don't think it's necessary for a new air gun. Again, if its an older and/or vintage airgun, I'd consider taking the stock off to examine, clean, and add rust protectant to metal parts under the stock.
2. Some moving parts also require lubrication. How do rust-prevention oils and lubricants work together? Should they be used separately, or can/should they coexist in certain areas?
It seems like the general consensus is to use one or the other, but I’d appreciate any further clarification.
I apply Barricade to all exposed steel, including screws, sling connectors, etc. as a first step when the airgun is brand new and leave it on overnight to "seep into" the metal. Then I wipe off the Barricade and apply some Rem Oil on top of those metal surfaces and almost immediately wipe that off. At that point, I consider the "rustproofing" complete. If any moving parts, such as the barrel pivot linkages and detent are tight. I add a tiny bit of Krytok or moly paste there. If I take the airgun out to shoot it, I wipe it down with just a little Rem Oil afterward to keep the metal protected from it being handled and/or any moisture that may be on the air gun.
3. I’ve come across products like Ballistol and Rem-Oil. Does anyone have experience with these for rust prevention?
I noticed that you mentioned Rem-Oil several times, but I was hoping for a comparison between it, Ballistol, and Krytox. From what I’ve gathered, Krytox seems more focused on lubrication — is that correct?
Yes.
Thanks again for your input!
YW!
-W
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Thank you all for the suggestions!
I should have clarified this earlier — my questions are specifically about rust prevention, not lubrication. Lubrication seems more straightforward since you can see the results right away. Rust prevention, on the other hand, feels more uncertain. It might take months or even years to know if I’ve done it correctly, and by the time rust appears, it could already be too late to fix.
I’m still confused about a few points, so please bear with me if these questions seem very basic:
1. Does every surface of every metal part need to be oiled? For example, what about internal components like trigger assemblies? Should I disassemble each part to oil each surface individually, or apply oil between the parts without full disassembly, or is it acceptable to leave some areas untreated?
2. Some moving parts also require lubrication. How do rust-prevention oils and lubricants work together? Should they be used separately, or can/should they coexist in certain areas?
3. I’ve come across products like Ballistol and Rem-Oil. Does anyone have experience with these for rust prevention?
Ballistol works great. Apply it to the metal with a little cloth or paper towel. Then I put that applicator in a zip loc to be used again. The odor soon evaporates. Spraying it on just wastes product and makes a mess.Some even put it on the stock but I don't want the wood soaking up that stuff
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Funny how folks almost universally dislike the odor of Ballistol? ???
I use 3 in 1 oil on the pivot points and exterior metal of all my guns. It makes them smell just like my Grandaddy's guns did! 8)
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Not to complicate and/or overthink things furthermore, me, I wax my guns, be they blued, stainless, or plated. I’m referring to external parts, or those that get touched.
Do a research on Renaissance Wax, which is good for about anything that needs protection (even museums use them), take it from there, although the use of much cheap waxes, particularly Johnson’s Floor Wax or even shoe polish, is not something just recently discovered.
I did not read the whole thread, but I don’t recall seeing anyone mention wax, so….
Oh, had I a springer I’d be averse holding and cocking its oily barrel/lever ::)
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Not to complicate and/or overthink things furthermore, me, I wax my guns, be they blued, stainless, or plated. I’m referring to external parts, or those that get touched.
Do a research on Renaissance Wax, which is good for about anything that needs protection (even museums use them), take it from there, although the use of much cheap waxes, particularly Johnson’s Floor Wax or even shoe polish, is not something just recently discovered.
I did not read the whole thread, but I don’t recall seeing anyone mention wax, so….
Oh, had I a springer I’d be averse holding and cocking its oily barrel/lever ::)
Wax is an interesting idea.
What do you think of spray wax for motorcycle chains? Any reason not to try it?
Oily barrels could be a potential problem. I wipe down the metal on springers so nothing is oily, and I put my hand over the end if front sight or muzzle brake to avoid slippage and obtain maximum leverage when cocking the gun.
-W
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Not to complicate and/or overthink things furthermore, me, I wax my guns, be they blued, stainless, or plated. I’m referring to external parts, or those that get touched.
Do a research on Renaissance Wax, which is good for about anything that needs protection (even museums use them), take it from there, although the use of much cheap waxes, particularly Johnson’s Floor Wax or even shoe polish, is not something just recently discovered.
I did not read the whole thread, but I don’t recall seeing anyone mention wax, so….
Oh, had I a springer I’d be averse holding and cocking its oily barrel/lever ::)
Wax is an interesting idea. What do you think of spray wax for motorcycle chains?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0VDC2/?ref_=cm_wl_huc_item&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0VDC2/?ref_=cm_wl_huc_item&th=1)
Any reason not to try it?
Oily barrels could be a potential problem. I wipe down the metal on springers so nothing is oily, and I put my hand over the end if front sight or muzzle brake to avoid slippage and obtain maximum leverage when cocking the gun.
-W
W sir, I’d just go for Renaissance W, it’s proven and excellent on blued guns.
I’ve also used Johnson’s Floor Wax, but I’m in NM where it’s uber dry that even my bare and untreated steel don’t even have a modicum of rust ???
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Not to complicate and/or overthink things furthermore, me, I wax my guns, be they blued, stainless, or plated. I’m referring to external parts, or those that get touched.
Do a research on Renaissance Wax, which is good for about anything that needs protection (even museums use them), take it from there, although the use of much cheap waxes, particularly Johnson’s Floor Wax or even shoe polish, is not something just recently discovered.
I did not read the whole thread, but I don’t recall seeing anyone mention wax, so….
Oh, had I a springer I’d be averse holding and cocking its oily barrel/lever ::)
Wax is an interesting idea. What do you think of spray wax for motorcycle chains?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0VDC2/?ref_=cm_wl_huc_item&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B0VDC2/?ref_=cm_wl_huc_item&th=1)
Any reason not to try it?
Oily barrels could be a potential problem. I wipe down the metal on springers so nothing is oily, and I put my hand over the end if front sight or muzzle brake to avoid slippage and obtain maximum leverage when cocking the gun.
-W
W sir, I’d just go for Renaissance W, it’s proven and excellent on blued guns.
I’ve also used Johnson’s Floor Wax, but I’m in NM where it’s uber dry that even my bare and untreated steel don’t even have a modicum of rust ???
Just to satisfy my cat-like curiosity, I ordered the product in the image below. It was less expensive than Renaissance Wax and it's made for firarms.
-W
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If you’d do a search, Flitz is also popular 👍
Oil, though meritorious, is just too tacky a coat on anything tactile ???
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I just did a quick study of Ballistrol (ballistic-oil). Very interesting. Fun fact: Ballistrol (without propellants) is safe to drink.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballistol
-W
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I just did a quick study of Ballistrol (ballistic-oil). Very interesting. Fun fact: Ballistrol (without propellants) is safe to drink.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballistol
-W
Been using Ballistol even when I was still in the Philippines….Hmm, and I like the smell :-*
While effective, it’s still oil and sticky, so it’s wax for the exterior for me 🥸
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Or you could dip the whole thing in a drum of used motor oil.. hang and let excess drip off.
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Do Not listen to the guy he's crazy lol
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I just did a quick study of Ballistrol (ballistic-oil). Very interesting. Fun fact: Ballistrol (without propellants) is safe to drink.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballistol
-W
Been using Ballistol even when I was still in the Philippines….Hmm, and I like the smell :-*
While effective, it’s still oil and sticky, so it’s wax for the exterior for me 🥸
Whoa, back up there. You LIKE the smell?!?
Stinks as badly as PB CLP, though it's a different stink. I do like that it doesn't have lingering bad effects on my respiratory system as CLP does.
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I just did a quick study of Ballistrol (ballistic-oil). Very interesting. Fun fact: Ballistrol (without propellants) is safe to drink.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ballistol
-W
Been using Ballistol even when I was still in the Philippines….Hmm, and I like the smell :-*
While effective, it’s still oil and sticky, so it’s wax for the exterior for me 🥸
Whoa, back up there. You LIKE the smell?!?
Stinks as badly as PB CLP, though it's a different stink. I do like that it doesn't have lingering bad effects on my respiratory system as CLP does.
Yes, Miss Pat, I do like the smell of Ballistol :-*
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I don't use any kind of petroleum product on my airguns.
I only use Fluid Film conservatively both externally and internally.
Wipe down any excess.