GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => German AirGun Gate => Topic started by: Toxylon on September 16, 2024, 04:10:10 PM
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Just picked up this little old Diana. It's a D24 .177 cal with a white factory paint job and a 'Star' moniker plus snazzy stripes added to the usual outfit. These brightly painted Diana breakbarrels were a short-lived craze in the late '80's. As most of you know, I already own a blue Diana Sport (D34), and now I have a little sister for her.
If the 80's paint job wasn't enough, my new gun is stamped Made in West Germany, and the tiny 04 / 89 (88?) stamp at the back of the receiver brings the dating job home. This gun was apparently made mere months after my blue Sport.
The D24 lacks open sights, which is a bummer. The factory sights in these 80's guns were MUCH better than what's presently available as replacement parts, or on new guns.
The barrel and the receiver are somewhat beat up, a little rusty, the bluing has worn off in several places (a first for me), and the 35-y-o. paint job on the stock has chipped on almost all edges, in addition to many scratches. It really wasn't the brightest idea Diana ever got, in terms of longevity.
The gun cocks and locks smoothly and solidly, even after all these years. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. I don't think anyone has been inside this gun since it left the factory.
The Diana has a T01-type safety and a trigger adjustment hole in the trigger guard, which both promised a good, adjustable trigger, like in my Sport. But the trigger blade is a stamped steel blade without any adjustment possibility. The trigger seems to have a long first stage and something resembling a second stage wall just before the trigger goes all the way back.
With the not-so-hot external condition, I paid just a small sum for this gun, not enough to buy a Chinese entry level rifle new. This is still a German gun under the paint job, something that can shoot with terrific accuracy for a really long time.
At this stage (and in the pics) I have scrubbed the gun's metal parts with Ballistol-soaked 0000 steel wool, adjusted the overly tight pivot bolt and cleaned the barrel with both dry and Ballistol-soaked patches. I want to see how the old girl shoots as is before taking the (likely very) tired powerplant out.
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I kind of like the white paint. ;)
I'm sure you can get back to prime condition.
Good luck,
-Y
PS. FWIW-I have heard that Diana's have a preference for RWS pellets. Kinda figures. ::)
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Nice find!
AFAIK, the "Star" rifles were made in rather large quantities for clubs and schools. So they lack some of the refinements that were more "normal" to the era.
I cannot imagine how it made its way to your neck of the woods, LOL!
Thanks for the pictures and keep us posted!
HM
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Thanks Yogi & Hector!
I guess the "rather large quantities" part explains how these especially mass-produced Dianas were dispersed far and wide over time. It figures that such a gun would get a simpler, cheaper trigger.
I haven't looked into it any further, but at this stage I think there is a chance the trigger mech could accept a T01 trigger blade to make this trigger adjustable. The safety seems exactly alike, after all.
I'll get to test shoot the gun the coming weekend and will report here.
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Took the first couple dozen shots with the small Diana. In short, it simply works. That is something to behold, given the 35 years she has under her belt, and many years without use.
The cocking stroke is surpringly short, ending abruptly "midway", compared to my usual springers. But the gun cocks with satisfying solidity. The safety works like charm, every shot, and the trigger is better than I anticipated: it has a medium-length first stage that reliably stops at a second stage wall. The trigger pull is a little harder than my preference, but workable, and the break is easily clean enough.
I don't have many lightweight .177 cal pellets to choose from, the obvious preference for a small-engine gun like this. But I tested and chronoed Exact 4.52's, Exact RS 7.33's, and Finale Match 7.56's.
The JSB's chambered almost too easily, dropping into the leade without resistance. The Exacts averaged 168.9 m/s / 554 fps, for 7.8 J / 5.7 fpe, while the Exact RS's averaged 172.9 m/s / 567 fps, for 7.1 J / 5.2 fpe. Cycle-wise, the Exacts are too heavy for the little lady, increasing recoil and noise compared to the RS's.
The Finale Match 7.56's were the best match for the Diana, averaging 177.9 m/s / 584 fps, for 7.8 J / 5.7 fpe. The Finale Matches chambered with proper resistance, and shot without any recoil and very little mech noise or muzzle report, outside some twang.
So, the gun shoots just a little hot for the Freimark (German legal limit). I think the D24 could be a 10 J / 7.4 fpe gun without compromising the sweet shot cycle.
There's a whiff of dieseling present, no surprise. A thorough teardown, clean-up and refreshing is in order here, but I'll just shoot the gun for now, it is so much fun. The only problem is the gun has no sights, and I don't have a scope with me, so it's sighting down the barrel for the near future!
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Maybe Hector can figure out a front sight for you. Would a William rear peep sight work?
-Y
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@ Toxylon:
WOW!
36 years and power output is still spot on!
Believe me, not a single element of the "Polizei" would be worried about a difference of few tenths of a Joule/ft-lb...
They have bigger fish to "frei", LOL!
I am sure that the front Korn tunnel of the 34 EMS "Premium Korn" set will fit into the front sight dovetail.
Also Waffencenter Gotha has these:
The simple Korntunnel:
https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/shop/ERSATZTEILE-Spare-Parts/LUFTDRUCKWAFFEN/HERSTELLER-MODELL/DIANA/Diana-26/-Korntunnel-mit-Stabkorn-Korneinsatz-nicht-austauschbar-DIANA-26::1904.html
The replaceable insert Korntunnel:
https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/shop/ERSATZTEILE-Spare-Parts/LUFTDRUCKWAFFEN/HERSTELLER-MODELL/DIANA/Diana-35/Korntunnel-mit-Stabkorn-Stabkorn-auswechselbar-DIANA-35::3497.html
The aperture inserts:
https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/shop/ERSATZTEILE-Spare-Parts/LUFTDRUCKWAFFEN/HERSTELLER-MODELL/DIANA/Diana-35/-Ringkorn-verschiedene-Groessen-fuer-Korntunnel-mit-auswechselbaren-Koernern-DIANA-35::4631.html
The barelycorns:
https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/shop/ERSATZTEILE-Spare-Parts/LUFTDRUCKWAFFEN/HERSTELLER-MODELL/DIANA/Diana-35/Perlkorn-verschiedene-Groessen-fuer-Korntunnel-mit-auswechselbaren-Koernern-DIANA-35::4798.html
The posts:
https://www.waffencenter-gotha.de/shop/ERSATZTEILE-Spare-Parts/LUFTDRUCKWAFFEN/HERSTELLER-MODELL/DIANA/Diana-35/Balkenkorn-verschiedene-Groessen-fuer-Korntunnel-mit-auswechselbaren-Koernern-DIANA-35::4621.html
The original rear sight is going to be hard to get because they were made of a fragile material resembling bakelite so, very few survive.
IF the breech block has TWO tapped screw holes 40 mm's apart (c-c) then the "upgraded" version of the DIANA rear sight will fit AND the 4 notch spring-loaded leaf would be historically accurate.
And so will the rear sight for the 34 EMS (that is Fiber Optic).
If it does not have the two screw holes (which would be unexpected), then they can be drilled and tapped.
I do not remember these guns having any kind of dovetail groove, so a Williams peep would not seem like a direct solution.
Perhaps one of the 5D sights that are made for PB's can match the curvature of the rear action tube, or a special bar could be made to use one of the RF target sights.
But, more than this is that the "spirit" of the gun was to be a "youth/club" rifle to teach youngsters how to aim with open sights, so, to ME, a peep would be slightly out of place.
I have a few rear sights of different "vintages".
Let me know what you want in a PM and we'll reach an agreement.
Congrats again!
HM
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Hector,
In this D24's breech block there are two threaded holes 40mm's apart, and a bigger, smooth stop pin hole between those threades holes. There's also one original machine screw for one of the threaded holes (see pics).
There are also super-short dovetail grooves cut on top of the receiver rear. Curiously, these stop some two inches before the rear of the receiver (see pic), meaning a short-stemmed (necked?), field type peep sights wouldn't get close the aiming eye. But I haven't looked into (heh) enough peep sights to tell how big an issue this is.
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Hector,
In this D24's breech block there are two threaded holes 40mm's apart, and a bigger, smooth stop pin hole between those threades holes. There's also one original machine screw for one of the threaded holes (see pics).
There are also super-short dovetail grooves cut on top of the receiver rear. Curiously, these stop some two inches before the rear of the receiver (see pic), meaning a short-stemmed (necked?), field type peep sights wouldn't get close the aiming eye. But I haven't looked into (heh) enough peep sights to tell how big an issue this is.
OK, great!
So, any of the rear sights by DIANA (except the 34 EMS) would fit in those two screw holes and the curved breechblock. The larger screw was the one that held together the plastic rear sight, which is now gone. So you can just put it away.
The rear dovetail COULD receive a WILLIAMS peep sight, but an extension would have to be made, something like this:
(https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/uploads/2/3/8/4/23849268/cimg3918_orig.jpg)
Or this:
(https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/uploads/2/3/8/4/23849268/cimg4107_orig.jpg)
In any case, it's up to you.
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
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That's a cool-looking rifle! It should clean up nice. I wouldn't mind stumbling onto one at the flea market or garage sales. I'm new to air-gunnin' but have become a Diana fan after a couple of purchases.
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The D24 has sizeable droop, the most I have in any of my guns. That wouldn't matter with iron sights that are mounted on the barrel altogether, but not so with scopes and peeps.
I'm going to check if there are breech seal shims under the breech seal, but given that the back edge of the breech block is tight against the receiver fork bottom, I don't think adjusting the breech seal height will do much to correct the droop.
Neil,
Good to hear about your entry into this game. I'm a Diana fan myself, having many and wanting more.
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A project indeed. Nice find.
I’m glad you mentioned when jacking it only travelled half way. I have a 24 which is the same. I thought it was because of a Canadian restriction.
Mine was only shooting 259 fps, a challenge. Put a Vortek spring in and getting 592 fps. Completely turned around. Crow
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The D24 has sizeable droop, the most I have in any of my guns. That wouldn't matter with iron sights that are mounted on the barrel altogether, but not so with scopes and peeps.
HMmmmmmm
I agree that the scope is an issue when a breech block has "excessive" droop, but peeps and notches are the same as far as droop correction is concerned. The notch is closer to the front sight so, less movement there corrects more. But peeps usually have a very large range of movement.
Williams makes TWO peep sights that are suitable for airguns:
- The GR:
https://shop.williamsgunsight.com/ecommerce/p/fpgr-009683
- And the AG:
https://shop.williamsgunsight.com/ecommerce/p/fpairgun-ag-014168
The GR has a larger slide though it sits lower in the action.
I've had some luck requesting the AG with the GR slide as an optional part. So that would give you the MOST latitude of all.
Of course, you can always regulate the barrel to whatever sight setup you end up getting.
Another front sight you might want to try is the TruGlo fiberoptic gathering one. It is real good for plinking as it works as well as a "green dot" just using ambient light and orienting the gathering fixture towards the light source:
(https://www.ctcustomairguns.com/uploads/2/3/8/4/23849268/cimg4111_orig.jpg)
Let us know if we can be of further assistance, keep well and shoot straight!
HM
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Thank you Hector, for your ever-present Diana assistance!
I've wanted to try a Williams peep for years now, but they are practically unavailable here. Ordered from the U.S., they fetch a couple hundred total, which I can't justify, and take a month or two to arrive.
I have an antique FWB target peep that I got for my Walther LG55 (which is in bits now), and a cheap, heavy, boxy Gamo peep (also known as Daisy / Avanti etc.). I cannot get the FWB base to grab the D24's scope rail, no matter what, while the Gamo's long base fouls with the Diana's rear plug.
For the time being, and chomping at the bit to get SOME idea of the Diana's accuracy, I hitched an ancient Kassnar 4x15 scope to it. The scope's stamped tin integral mount is a joke as far as rigidity goes, but it seems to grab the Diana dovetails pretty good, the scope is really light, and the gun pretty docile, so it might work for a while. I don't need to zero the scope with the droop, I only need a repeatable sighting picture for now.
Now I'm only waiting for the wind and rain to pass.
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EXCELLENT!
Keep us posted.
HM
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Resolved: the simple trigger in my D24 is just too heavy for accuracy. The best I can do, shooting Finale Matches from a seated offhand position, are about 1" 5-shot groups at just 10 meters. The reason, or at least a major part of it, is the trigger pull which is so heavy the gun has no hope of being let to do its own thing, being either squeezed or pulled hard into my shoulder before the trigger agrees to let go.
I have witnessed even heavier, completely unusable trigger pulls on single-sear springer triggers before, this isn't the worst offender out there. There is hope some reduction in pull could be achieved by cleaning, polishing and lubing the piston & trigger sears.
Based on today's target shooting stint, the three-ball "deluxe" trigger these guns sometimes had was a massive improvement, basically making the deal.
Other than the trigger pull weight, the little Diana works extremely solidly and dependably, and is a joy to hold and shoot.
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So, I took the Sweet Painted Lady apart. Corrosion was the word for today, including the trigger, the trigger pins, the trigger housing inside etc (see pic). It seemed obvious what the sandpaper-like rust would do to these small parts' movement, so there was, paradoxically, light at the end of the tunnel.
I soaked and scrubbed all the small steel parts in a transmission oil / thinner mix that has proven effective on rust, then washed the parts with brake cleaner, and oiled them up / lubed with moly paste where needed. I also stoned the machined trigger sear for a smoother finish. Putting the gun back together, I only had an opportunity for a quick, single, sneaky shot. The trigger break felt way reduced, down into usable-for-accuracy range. Yei!
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So, I took the Sweet Painted Lady apart. Corrosion was the word for today, including the trigger, the trigger pins, the trigger housing inside etc (see pic). It seemed obvious what the sandpaper-like rust would do to these small parts' movement, so there was, paradoxically, light at the end of the tunnel.
I soaked and scrubbed all the small steel parts in a transmission oil / thinner mix that has proven effective on rust, then washed the parts with brake cleaner, and oiled them up / lubed with moly paste where needed. I also stoned the machined trigger sear for a smoother finish. Putting the gun back together, I only had an opportunity for a quick, single, sneaky shot. The trigger break felt way reduced, down into usable-for-accuracy range. Yei!
Sounds like a resurrection! LOL!
Keep up the good work.
HM
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The clean-polish-lube job on the little Diana trigger really did change it completely, into a perfect-resistance trigger with a solid faux second stage wall and just a little creep. What's more, I just saved another ridiculously heavy single sear trigger with the same procedure.
Low-power springers have their perks. With the 24 I've delved into occasional shooting sessions from deep inside the house, out to my backyard. No-one seems to be able to tell. It is really nice to not need to travel to shoot some.
I've learned my usual "support hand finger tips in front stock screw holes" forward hold doesn't work with the little Diana. I need to be back under the Goddess logo, with my middle finger centered in the cocking slot. A complete floating artillery hold doesn't work either, the gun needs some shoulder pressure applied.
Finally, adjusting the little Kassnar scope for proper eye relief (so that both the crosshairs and the target are in focus), I've gotten to ragged hole grouping at 10 meters, shooting seated offhand.
Really, the only thing left asking is the super-slippery painted wood rifle butt. I'm thinking of gluing a thin strip of rubber in there for grip, but don't want to compromise the 80's paint job with a peeling risk etc.
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Just picked up this little old Diana. It's a D24 .177 cal with a white factory paint job and a 'Star' moniker plus snazzy stripes added to the usual outfit. These brightly painted Diana breakbarrels were a short-lived craze in the late '80's. As most of you know, I already own a blue Diana Sport (D34), and now I have a little sister for her.
If the 80's paint job wasn't enough, my new gun is stamped Made in West Germany, and the tiny 04 / 89 (88?) stamp at the back of the receiver brings the dating job home. This gun was apparently made mere months after my blue Sport.
The D24 lacks open sights, which is a bummer. The factory sights in these 80's guns were MUCH better than what's presently available as replacement parts, or on new guns.
The barrel and the receiver are somewhat beat up, a little rusty, the bluing has worn off in several places (a first for me), and the 35-y-o. paint job on the stock has chipped on almost all edges, in addition to many scratches. It really wasn't the brightest idea Diana ever got, in terms of longevity.
The gun cocks and locks smoothly and solidly, even after all these years. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yet. I don't think anyone has been inside this gun since it left the factory.
The Diana has a T01-type safety and a trigger adjustment hole in the trigger guard, which both promised a good, adjustable trigger, like in my Sport. But the trigger blade is a stamped steel blade without any adjustment possibility. The trigger seems to have a long first stage and something resembling a second stage wall just before the trigger goes all the way back.
With the not-so-hot external condition, I paid just a small sum for this gun, not enough to buy a Chinese entry level rifle new. This is still a German gun under the paint job, something that can shoot with terrific accuracy for a really long time.
At this stage (and in the pics) I have scrubbed the gun's metal parts with Ballistol-soaked 0000 steel wool, adjusted the overly tight pivot bolt and cleaned the barrel with both dry and Ballistol-soaked patches. I want to see how the old girl shoots as is before taking the (likely very) tired powerplant out.
You should aptly christen her Jhoana Elton :-*
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Really, the only thing left asking is the super-slippery painted wood rifle butt. I'm thinking of gluing a thin strip of rubber in there for grip, but don't want to compromise the 80's paint job with a peeling risk etc.
A few of these, strategically located will do wonders:
www.amazon.com/Black-Rubber-Feet-Stick-Bumper/dp/B06XPFDQBH?th=1
I would countersink them a little. Just to make sure that they are not prone to be pushed sideways.
Just an idea.
HM
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Thinking about the slippery butt issue some more, it dawned on me to try some cloth tape (hockey stick tape) on the butt. So, I cleaned the surface with rubbing alcohol, plaster some tape in there and cut away the excess with scissors. It works like a charm, providing just the right amount of grip on my shoulder, while being 100% reversable, and really quick and easy, too!
For testing out, I didn't bother to do a precision job, but even so, it doesn't look half bad, and does the job.
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Thinking about the slippery butt issue some more, it dawned on me to try some cloth tape (hockey stick tape) on the butt. So, I cleaned the surface with rubbing alcohol, plaster some tape in there and cut away the excess with scissors. It works like a charm, providing just the right amount of grip on my shoulder, while being 100% reversable, and really quick and easy, too!
For testing out, I didn't bother to do a precision job, but even so, it doesn't look half bad, and does the job.
Nice!
If I still lived in Mexico I would have trouble finding the "Hockey Stick Tape", LOL!
;-)
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
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Thinking about the slippery butt issue some more, it dawned on me to try some cloth tape (hockey stick tape) on the butt. So, I cleaned the surface with rubbing alcohol, plaster some tape in there and cut away the excess with scissors. It works like a charm, providing just the right amount of grip on my shoulder, while being 100% reversable, and really quick and easy, too!
For testing out, I didn't bother to do a precision job, but even so, it doesn't look half bad, and does the job.
Nice!
If I still lived in Mexico I would have trouble finding the "Hockey Stick Tape", LOL!
;-)
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
Maybe when you lived there, but not now...
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mexico_men%27s_national_ice_hockey_team
https://www.latimes.com/sports/story/2022-04-20/hockey-nhl-mexico-los-angeles-kings
https://www.iihf.com/en/associations/1348/mexico
-Yogi
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I'd really like to get open sights for the little Diana, but the curved breech block top is getting in the way. Both my 1988 D34 and my 2015 350 Mag have flat breech block tops, and their rear sights (or the Xisico clones) cannot be tightened against the curved D24 top. I'm at a loss as to what to get for the rear, despite Hector's earlier post on the subject.
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I'd really like to get open sights for the little Diana, but the curved breech block top is getting in the way. Both my 1988 D34 and my 2015 350 Mag have flat breech block tops, and their rear sights (or the Xisico clones) cannot be tightened against the curved D24 top. I'm at a loss as to what to get for the rear, despite Hector's earlier post on the subject.
Again, Duke;
You need a plastic piece.
HM