GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Daisy Airguns => Topic started by: desertplinker on August 09, 2024, 01:51:32 PM
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I have a newer Red Ryder maybe three years old and I enjoy shooting it. It is accurate at 20 yards and just has a fun factor ripping through cans. The insides are bone stock, never took it apart, but I am curious if you tuners that have squeezed more velocity out of your Red Ryder, could comment on the experience,
There is a business on FLEA BAY that sells new RR's that shoot 400 fps. They are not cheap, just wondering what your experience is.
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I am sure someone has tried.
What would you like to have for power. 20 fpe enough?
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I am sure someone has tried.
What would you like to have for power. 20 fpe enough?
It's a serious question, but not 20 fpe. looking at 400 fps max
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Seems like I have seen something on the Red Ryder mods. Maybe here on GTA ? Can’t be too much to it . Stretching or shimming a spring or such . 400 fps BB would be a lot of fun. Sorry about the 20 fpe . Don’t know what came over me.
Charles
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desertplinker - There's a lot of info on RedRyders. An interesting thread is here. https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/putting-a-little-more-power-in-a-15-00-daisy.807316/ (https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/putting-a-little-more-power-in-a-15-00-daisy.807316/)
colbalt327 here on GTA is a guru on them. If you're into Red Ryders the link above should give you quite a lot of interesting reading.
P.S. Here's a custom spring he has on Ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293537606795?itmmeta=01J4WQ384VFARMEAVNDY8154XQ&hash=item4458346c8b:g:NH8AAOSwqiReisb6&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4MwFy%2FdgRQ%2BIPqsWLq%2F9KI%2FuYROILlo6nptW%2FMmsp9J6x9965Jpp1l5A6dvoQdsFDAMylirzRzF67Yshv5pf0lZZY%2Fuz6qD79X%2Bh89XGYrPrO19oBRyO3Uzznewi3z%2BdL6FcE5heYev0MzxAkhFBEG%2BSqOSfehMkcHrVwDul5sasx%2BjJRS%2BHA2M9m5nsYHu--IA8cmYkXOJcu4gYttfahyVxa9zylNJGuQY5KzewAr2%2BVkzcE2AimUGpfjWRN5V%2BXfSvOSTx2xPnthvuJjZao7p3V8xqK1dlboTPXFUjZF5F%7Ctkp%3ABFBMuIONl6dk (https://www.ebay.com/itm/293537606795?itmmeta=01J4WQ384VFARMEAVNDY8154XQ&hash=item4458346c8b:g:NH8AAOSwqiReisb6&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA4MwFy%2FdgRQ%2BIPqsWLq%2F9KI%2FuYROILlo6nptW%2FMmsp9J6x9965Jpp1l5A6dvoQdsFDAMylirzRzF67Yshv5pf0lZZY%2Fuz6qD79X%2Bh89XGYrPrO19oBRyO3Uzznewi3z%2BdL6FcE5heYev0MzxAkhFBEG%2BSqOSfehMkcHrVwDul5sasx%2BjJRS%2BHA2M9m5nsYHu--IA8cmYkXOJcu4gYttfahyVxa9zylNJGuQY5KzewAr2%2BVkzcE2AimUGpfjWRN5V%2BXfSvOSTx2xPnthvuJjZao7p3V8xqK1dlboTPXFUjZF5F%7Ctkp%3ABFBMuIONl6dk)
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All you need sells on Ebay by Cobalt327. He sells the power springs that he has special made and larger air delivery tubes that have a larger ID. I have them in a new Red Rider and older ones. The Red Rider in stock form only gets about 270fps in spite of advertising claims. Mine get about 100fps more after installing the parts. One gets 390fps. The High Road mentioned above has all you need to know about how to go about it. They are way more fun at that power level. Rip right through steel soup cans not just aluminum soda cans without bouncing back at safe distance. Of course this strong spring makes the gun a bit harder to cock.
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Another thing you will need to change mainsprings is a mainspring compressor. I'm sure you can buy one but from the looks of it you can make one also. RestOModDaisy on Youtube is another great resource.
Here's one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dsErHG707tA
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I made my spring compressor from a wood dowel handle and instead of the welding rods in that video I used two square metal kabob skewers because we already had them and they worked fine.
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The thing I thought was interesting was the dimensions he included and why. At least it gives a starting point. I'm sure if one would look you could find a lot of different ways to build one. Looks pretty easy really. Just taking a quick look at buying one seems to be in the range of $17 - $30 dollars. Personally I'd make one like the 3rd one he shows. Looks very sturdy and easy to use.
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All you need sells on Ebay by Cobalt327. He sells the power springs that he has special made and larger air delivery tubes that have a larger ID. I have them in a new Red Rider and older ones. The Red Rider in stock form only gets about 270fps in spite of advertising claims. Mine get about 100fps more after installing the parts. One gets 390fps. The High Road mentioned above has all you need to know about how to go about it. They are way more fun at that power level. Rip right through steel soup cans not just aluminum soda cans without bouncing back at safe distance. Of course this strong spring makes the gun a bit harder to cock.
Great info Van, one question, how is the accuracy at higher fps?
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With my vintage Red Rider at the higher fps I gained a bit of accuracy as it has a new spring loaded model 25 barrel/magazine. Both my Buck with adult size stock and a new Red Rider have the power mods. They both have 499 precision shot tubes grafted in though to make super accurate repeaters. I did not keep the stock barrels but dont think you loose much accuracy from a stock gun with the power gain though.
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It seems from what I have been reading that somewhere near 400 fps with bb's might be the max, but I cannot find accuracy information except when you go over 400 fps groups open up substantially.
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you can accurize most RR, and it works at 260 fps (normal RR speed). I shoot cans at 25 yards with my regular speed RR, after a barrel gentle cleaning, filing the sights to be crisper, and a small amount of lubing the internals (dont forget to perfectly align the air port with the air tube that pushes the air and BB up the barrel. Another necessary mod is a trigger tune. You can get the trigger to be under 1 lb and very predictable.
As far as 400 fps, we built a 499 with a swapped RR factory spring and we got 400 fps (403 actually). that gun shoots super accurate and flat way to 30 yards and then some. RR are a lot of fun to tinker with.
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What great fun!
I have the cobalt kit, been watching for a clear horizontal surface to install it.
How is the 499 barrel grafted in?
Thank You.
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What great fun!
I have the cobalt kit, been watching for a clear horizontal surface to install it.
How is the 499 barrel grafted in?
Thank You.
Remove the barrel assembly from the RR and drill out or tap out the rivets to separate the clamshell halves and remove the barrel. The 499 barrel needs to match the breech end of the RR. The threaded breech end of the 499 has to be turned down to match the OD of the RR. I just chucked it in a drill press and held a file to the threads until they were gone and matched the original OD. That end of the 499 needs to be drilled to duplicate the original RR configuration. Use bolts and nuts to join the clamshells or thread the back hole for machine screws. Here is a screen shot of the Two barrels and how they were swapped. This was a Buck barrel which was shorter a RR is longer so the barrel shroud has to be modified either way to match the shot tube barrel. I extended the shroud with a piece of black Delrin cylinder of the same size OD on the Buck. The right side picture is the completed Buck assembly with the 499 tube grafted in and it works great as a repeater. Also shown are two Bucks with the extended barrels. Hope this helps.(http://)
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https://youtu.be/PrtfT7Ouslk?si=pn26tL_mnfgXLXE-
Just remember the 105 and the RR are stamped metal..... pushing them too hard could damage the metal bits....