GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: Tack Driver 10 on March 14, 2024, 09:38:17 AM
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Was sitting on the fence about this gun......
The 5/8" tube intrigued me along with the $120 delivered price tag.
That pushed me over the edge. (not that I needed much of a push)
Arrived a few days ago and had it torn apart shortly thereafter.
The tube is about 17" from the front of the valve to the fill port.
That makes it a 5.2 ci or 85 cc reservoir.
I was really interested on what Crosman did with the valve.
The back half is exactly the same as the 13xx valve.
Same spring and valve stem too.
The front half is a little different but functionally the same.
The check valve is gone, left more material to compensate for it.
So same volume as a 13xx valve and no check valve.
Should be able to put a gauge on the gun today and close it up for testing.
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Here we go folks, the breakdown of lego parts begins!
Good to know it's the 13xx valve more or less.
Following...
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I'm dealing with some headaches at work.
A 3622 Purchase would give me the instant gratification I need to deal with the emotional turmoil of working with/for idiots who don't understand what my team actually does.
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Glad to see the innards! Thanks.
Do the 13XX rifles have a suitable gauge block for a button gauge?
My 3622 hammered several HOSP yesterday at ranges up to 20 yards. The 3622 much prefers the JSB 18 grain pellet. The CPHP do okay but it is not a close contest. Maybe after the barrel gets some use. I am getting dead on the 16 fpe advertised and up to 30 decent shots. The last few are easy to tell, especially past 30 shots, that it is time to pump up ;).
I am using a low pressure 2650psi steel 86 cf scuba tank to air up. It is just a psst and the 3622 is back to pressure. I have a restrictor and micro-bore whip but with the 4500 psi scba tank I am skeeered it might get away from me.
The little valve is interesting. I think a few mods might get the rifle easily to a 20/20 tune.
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Would have liked to see a brass valve but that would probably increase the cost.
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A brass valve would be nice.
Might put one in after some tinkering.
I have plenty of them in my stash.
Got the gauge fitted, no gauge block.
There was enough metal in the front of the valve to attach it.
Replaced the stock valve stem with an Mrod stem.
Will run it over the chrony in the next few days.
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Great job with the gauge Ron. Looks like it grew in there. ;)
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Explain how the gauge was added a little more please? You threaded into the valve block?
Can the gauge go on the other side so as not to cover up the Crosman logo?
Nice integration.
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Explain how the gauge was added a little more please? You threaded into the valve block?
Can the gauge go on the other side so as not to cover up the Crosman logo?
Nice integration.
The gauge is threaded directly into the front part of the valve.
Rethreaded the gauge from 1/8 NPT to 1/4-40.
Valve is counterbored and tapped with a flat bottom.
O-ring sits at the bottom of the counterbore.
Gauge screws in and seals against the O-ring.
Can be mounted on either side.
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Explain how the gauge was added a little more please? You threaded into the valve block?
Can the gauge go on the other side so as not to cover up the Crosman logo?
Nice integration.
The gauge is threaded directly into the front part of the valve.
Rethreaded the gauge from 1/8 NPT to 1/4-40.
Valve is counterbored and tapped with a flat bottom.
O-ring sits at the bottom of the counterbore.
Gauge screws in and seals against the O-ring.
Can be mounted on either side.
Thanks, good work. Should be easy. But, the more I think about it the more I want to leave the little rifle gaugeless :).
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¼-40?
¼-20 is UNC,
¼-28 is UNF,
¼-32 is UNEF
Would you please verify?
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¼-40?
¼-20 is UNC,
¼-28 is UNF,
¼-32 is UNEF
Would you please verify?
This is what I used, made in Poland.
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Thanks Ron. I'm not a machinist, so I don't really know when to use fine threads vs coarse threads. I know that the pressure tube fill port uses fine threads.
Would you tell me why you chose such a fine thread?
Hunter
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Ran the gun over the chrony.
Factory except for the gauge and Mrod valve stem.
The Mrod stem is a harder material than the stock stem.
2000 psi with 14.3 CPHPs.
First shot 775 fps with each subsequent shot decreasing by about 5 fps.
No bell curve, shot 20 was 660 fps.
Stock hammer is 34 g, tried a 24 g hammer.
Had to add too much spring so went to plan B.
The Mrod stem releases much easier so needs less hammer strike.
Pumped the gun to 2K psi and adjusted the PA for 705 FPS with the 34g hammer.
Ended backing off the PA about .075".
Round 2 much better:
01 706 2000 psi
02 712
03 707
04 700
05 708
06 712
07 713
08 703
09 716 High
10 715
11 714 1600 psi
12 707
13 704
14 705
15 707
16 705
17 699
18 694
19 688
20 686 1250 psi
Av 705 FPS, 15.78 FPE
ES 30.57
SD 08.42
Need to try starting at 2200 psi and adding an SSG.
May also try a stem made from peek.
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Thanks Ron. I'm not a machinist, so I don't really know when to use fine threads vs coarse threads. I know that the pressure tube fill port uses fine threads.
Would you tell me why you chose such a fine thread?
Hunter
I'm not a machinist either.
I had a choice between 1/4-28 or 1/4-40.
The 40 tpi die grabs 5+ threads vs 3.5 threads for the 28 tpi die.
The specialty Polish 40 die also cuts much nicer threads vs the Irwin 28 die.
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Thanks Ron. That is logical.
Thanks.
Hunter
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Glad to have a look at the valve. Those are the first pics I've seen. Nice looking shot string too!
How is the valve secured inside the tube, other than the trigger frame screw?
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Where did you buy the die and guage please? I see one of these in my future. I have a 2260 stock to put it in, and I'll probably steel breech it or make a breech. Maybe a repeater breech, that would be cool.
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Where did you buy the die and guage please? I see one of these in my future. I have a 2260 stock to put it in, and I'll probably steel breech it or make a breech. Maybe a repeater breech, that would be cool.
The 2260 channel would be too wide, don't you think?
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Glad to have a look at the valve. Those are the first pics I've seen. Nice looking shot string too!
How is the valve secured inside the tube, other than the trigger frame screw?
The front trigger frame screw is threaded into the tube not the valve.
The channel cut in the valve limits movement to some degree by the protruding trigger screw.
The tube has two punched stakes that prevent the valve from migrating back similar to the 13xx tube.
The valve can move around until the tube is pressurized.
I plan to pin the valve and counterbore it and the barrel in the future.
Where did you buy the die and guage please?
Got the gauge off Ebay but any paintball store might have it.
Suncoast Precision Tools
1/4-40 die:
https://www.suncoasttools.com/crm/ItemPage.aspx?ItemNumber=840.250040+5807117TM&VendorNumber=TOOMEX
1/4-40 bottom tap:
https://www.suncoasttools.com/crm/ItemPage.aspx?ItemNumber=800.250040+BOTIMPRTM&VendorNumber=TOOMEX
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Whoops …wrong thread…sorry..
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In theory the gauge is helping hold the valve now, not sure of its tolerances though as far as fit.
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=213423.0;attach=453830;image)
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If you do ever regulate the gun that gauge will show regulated pressure. Nice foresight.
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Thanks, Ron
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Where did you buy the die and guage please? I see one of these in my future. I have a 2260 stock to put it in, and I'll probably steel breech it or make a breech. Maybe a repeater breech, that would be cool.
The 2260 channel would be too wide, don't you think?
Yes, it will. I can epoxy bed it with dyed epoxy and I'm thinking I may put a coat of dye over the whole thing and recoat with urethane. I've fixed firearms this way. And I haven't ruled out knocking out a stock out of walnut, or maybe even elm as homage to the older Crosmans
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Thank you for the reply, I'll be watching this thread, very interesting
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Where did you buy the die and guage please? I see one of these in my future. I have a 2260 stock to put it in, and I'll probably steel breech it or make a breech. Maybe a repeater breech, that would be cool.
The 2260 channel would be too wide, don't you think?
Yes, it will. I can epoxy bed it with dyed epoxy and I'm thinking I may put a coat of dye over the whole thing and recoat with urethane. I've fixed firearms this way. And I haven't ruled out knocking out a stock out of walnut, or maybe even elm as homage to the older Crosmans
Ah, it’s gonna look somewhat like one of my two 2260 Disco builds:
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With bedliner paint, which I eventually stripped off for wanting to make it better and redo it during the hot months. It really wasn’t bad in person though; was actually nice, but I’m thinking of using a finer texture:
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If you do ever regulate the gun that gauge will show regulated pressure. Nice foresight.
I want to keep this gun on the "down low" money wise.
I think I can get a nice shot string without regulation.
The closed off valve acts like a regulator wannabe.
Fitted an SSG and swapped the trigger pack from my 362.
When it evolved into the LandShark/Killer Whale it got a 13xx trigger assy.
Adjusted the SSG for 0 air gap.
Gun unofficially makes 660 FPS and gets 39 shots from 2000-1050 psi.
Uses less than 25 psi per shot and is pretty quiet at 83dB.
Sounds like a kids old school cap gun.
Pumped the gun to 2400 psi and it made in the 640s.
Increased to the mid 660s around 2K and then down to 640 at 1000 psi.
That's a total of 58 shots from 2400-1000 psi.
58 x 13.5 FPE=783 total FPE, sounds too good to be true?
Need to take the gun apart, pin the valve and counterbore the valve and barrel.
I'm getting leakage around the TP so will also install a steel breech.
Will officially retest after the next round of mods.
Would like to make a brass valve with concave seat and peek stem.
Should knock off even easier and make more FPS without a heavy hammer spring.
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Where did you buy the die and guage please? I see one of these in my future. I have a 2260 stock to put it in, and I'll probably steel breech it or make a breech. Maybe a repeater breech, that would be cool.
The 2260 channel would be too wide, don't you think?
Yes, it will. I can epoxy bed it with dyed epoxy and I'm thinking I may put a coat of dye over the whole thing and recoat with urethane. I've fixed firearms this way. And I haven't ruled out knocking out a stock out of walnut, or maybe even elm as homage to the older Crosmans
Ah, it’s gonna look somewhat like one of my two 2260 Disco builds:
I bought the stock for a 362-25 I'm building, but started thinking about a 3622 build. We'll see, which way I go, I have time to think about it. Too many choices
Tack Driver, that's a great shot count, I could easily live with that. Eventually I'll buy one once I get my projects caught up, and I'll mod for shot count.
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Gen 1 Marauder trigger fits like a glove, no need for a shim like the Disco or 2260 etc.
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Gen 1 Marauder trigger fits like a glove, no need for a shim like the Disco or 2260 etc.
Looks at home :-*
I have one in my inventory.
I think I paid a little over $50 for it shipped from Crosman in 2023.
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Gen 1 Marauder trigger fits like a glove, no need for a shim like the Disco or 2260 etc.
I have one of those but the 362 trigger can be made to be real nice.
Added a 4-40 set screw to adjust out most of the travel.
Replace the trigger spring with a pen spring and unbend the safety/sear spring.
Replace the pins with drill rod.
Took the gun apart and drilled the valve and tube.
Now has three Prod screws anchoring the valve.
Counterbored the valve and barrel.
The stock TP is .120" so made one from Delrin the same diameter.
Steel breech finishes off this round of mods.
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Gen 1 Marauder trigger fits like a glove, no need for a shim like the Disco or 2260 etc.
I have one of those but the 362 trigger can be made to be real nice.
Added a 4-40 set screw to adjust out most of the travel.
Replace the trigger spring with a pen spring and unbend the safety/sear spring.
Replace the pins with drill rod.
Took the gun apart and drilled the valve and tube.
Now has three Prod screws anchoring the valve.
Counterbored the valve and barrel.
The stock TP is .120" so made one from Delrin same diameter.
Steel breech finishes off this round of mods.
Makes sense to anchor the valve 👍
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Ran the gun and was able to adjust the hammer gap to .050" with the same power as before with 0 gap.
Starting at 2K took 10 shots ended with 1800 psi.
Shots were all between 650-670 while adjusting the SSG.
So pinning the valve along with the steel breech really helped.
Decided to make a brass valve and bypass testing with the aluminum valve for now.
Made the front from 360 brass and used the back of a 760 valve, cut a concave seat.
The stem is pei with a diameter of .221" so should fire real easy at high pressure.
The valve port is only .125" vs .153" for the stock valve.
Going to leave it as is and see how it performs.
Hoping to reduce hammer spring and or go to a 24 gram hammer.
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Clean, solid mods as usual, Ron.
Does the 3622 have the same metal trigger housing as the 362, or the plastic one from the Disco/2260?
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Brass valve... that's what I'm talkin' bout... good job, as usual.
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Gen 1 Marauder trigger fits like a glove, no need for a shim like the Disco or 2260 etc.
Thanks for that info.
That trigger assembly does to seem to exist..anywhere......
I got one from Crosman that someone had in a hiding place.......
I caved in and ordered a 3622 yesterday.......
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The trigger is plastic vs the metal 362.
Ran the gun with the stock 34 gram hammer and a 24 gram hammer.
34 gram hammer
2600-1800 psi:
28 shots
680-700-680
ES 20, 2.9%
AV 685 14.9 FPE
24 gram hammer
2300-1600 psi:
35 shots
590-603-587
ES 16, 2.7%
AV 593 11.25 FPE
The .220" stem releases easy so increased the pressure range.
I'm hand pumping so 2600 psi is a little high.
May try a .240" stem to lower the pressure range.
A lighter valve spring is an option.
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Swapped the .220" stem for a .240" PEI stem.
Should lower the velocity range closer to 2K psi.
Opened the valve port from .125" to .140" and ported it.
TP same at .120"
Lighter valve spring.
Polished the hammer.
Using a 26g modified 760 hammer:
2000-900 PSI
57 shots
571-602-570
ES 32, 5.5%
AV 585 fps, 10.86 FPE
1900-1000 PSI
42 shots
583-602-582
ES 20, 3.4%
AV 591 fps, 11.05 FPE
Using the stock 38g hammer
Reduced SSG spacer from .117" to .100".
Makes 675 FPS, 2200 PSI.
Didn't run a string but next on the list.
Modified the 760 hammer filling the waist with JB Weld.
Drilled both hammers and pressed in a Delrin pad.
Makes cocking the gun much smoother.
The stock hammer is .612" and tips when cocked.
The Delrin pad takes out .008" and prevents the front of the hammer from scraping the top of the tube.
Trigger pull. 7 oz.
Have a Challenger barrel to try with this gun.
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Good luck with it….Im certainly enjoying shooting mine….I dont hunt but I cant help but think this would be a great woods walker …as light as it is even with the steel breech..Mine rattles a chili can all day long at 30+ yards…..enjoying reading your journey…👍
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Ran a shot string today.
.140" brass valve, .240 PEI stem
SSG .100" spacer, stock spring, .050" air gap
34 gram stock hammer
2400-1200 psi:
47 shots=646 total FPE
644-668-645
ES 24, 3.6%
SD 6.41
AV 658, 13.74 FPE
Next going to up the power to 710 FPS,16 FPE.
I think the gun is capable of between 30-40 shots at that level.
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Ran a shot string
.140" brass valve, .240 PEI stem
SSG .217" spacer, stock spring, .025" air gap
34 gram stock hammer
2500-1450 psi:
37 shots=587 total FPE
689-723-694
ES 35, 4.8%
SD 9.75
AV 707, 15.86 FPE
80 dB
Sweet spot 2300-1500 PSI
With zero air gap made 735 FPS. 17.15 FPE
With -.025" air gap made 760 FPS, 18.34 FPE
Will leave the gun as is for now but with a .050" air gap on the SSG.
That will reduce the FPE to 15 FPE with about 40 shots.
Need to swap the stock barrel for the Challenger barrel.
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That's some fantastic research, thank you very much for sharing with us. I'll have one by summer, thanks to you I already know what I have to do. I bought an old Crosman stock, I'm going to fit the 3622 into it for a retro look. I'm looking forward to tinkering with it, should be lots of fun. Thanks again, keep the research coming!
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Put the 17 cal Challenger barrel on the gun.
Oddly, it has the same port as the stock 22 cal barrel, .135".
Setup the same as the previous test except .050" SSG air gap.
CPHP 07.9, 910 FPS, 14.52 FPE
CPUM 10.5, 800 FPS, 14.92 FPE
Barracuda Match 10.65, 820 FPS, 15.90 FPE
While the gun was apart used a carbide burr to make clearance for an MRod trigger.
Small amount removed from the inletting for the tip of the trigger guard and screw.
I'll put it on the gun after some more testing.
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Installed the modified 31g 760 hammer in the gun.
.217" SSG spacer, .050"air gap, .120" TP,
CPHP 7.9=840 FPS,12.38 FPE
BM 10.65=745 FPS, 13.12 FPE
Made several TPs, .060, .075, .090, .100.
Swapped the .120" TP with a .100" TP,
CPHP 07.9=810 FPS,11.51 FPE
BM 10.65=730 FPS, 12.60 FPE
So with this setup the gun is a ~12 FPE gun.
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Put the Challenger trigger on the gun.
Need to remove a small amount from the stock for the front trigger guard.
Cut .040" spacers from Delrin to shim the trigger.
After trigger mods pull=3oz.
Added Delrin pads to the hammer.
Three in the front and two in the rear spaced 120 degrees offset from TDC.
Hammer "rides the rails" with minimal metal to metal contact.
Added a short pic rail to the front for a bipod.
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Time for accuracy tests.
I'll keep this short and sweet.
The stock barrel has the typical Crosman loose bore.
First picture is the stock 3622 gun and barrel.
Second picture is 3622 with a 177 cal Challenger LW barrel.
Third picture is 2400KT PCP with the 3622 22 cal barrel.
The loose 3622 barrel didn't shoot less than 1.25" CTC on either gun with 5 shots.
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The original plan was to experiment with this gun and then let it go..
I think I've taken it as far as reasonable at the time.
It's a decent gun for the money.
Will probably put it up for sale in the next few weeks.
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I wonder if the 4.50 or 4.52 ftts will group better at 40 yds.
Thanks for the info you've shared on this gun with a .177 barrel.
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I wonder if the 4.50 or 4.52 ftts will group better at 40 yds.
Thanks for the info you've shared on this gun with a .177 barrel.
My Crosman/Benjamin .177 LW barrels shoot great with your mentioned pellets, but they shoot their best with AA/JSB in either 8 or 10 grain.
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I thought I was done with mods on this gun...(it's never really done is it?)
One thing that really bothered me was the barrel band(s) attachment.
Should be a 1 piece stock with a traditional barrel band.
Popped the lid on my Lego toy box and found this 2240 BB from a previous project.
Problem is it's 7/8" to fit the CO2 tube.
I was going to make a BB from scratch but didn't have any 3/8"x 1 1/4" aluminum.
Turned down some 1" peek rod and cut an offset bushing to fit the 3/4" OD of the 3622.
Has 3 each 120 degree offset screws on the tube and barrel.
Need to get 5 more 8-32 set screws.
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An Occam’s Razor approach 👍
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An Occam’s Razor approach 👍
Had to look that one up....LOL
Took a barrel band from a CO2 gun.
It has a tang that makes it easy to mount the fore arm.
Used the offset bushing made earlier.
Modified the fore arm from my 362.
It was replaced with the Land shark fore arm.
Keeping it in the family, used a piece of steel from a worn 2200 pump link.
Really liking this mod.
Here it is in more or less stock form.
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Did some accuracy tests with the Challenger barrel and stock power adjuster.
Groups were good at 15 yards but opened up at 20 yards.
Velocity was around 750 FPS with 7.9 CPHPs.
With the PA adjusted all the way in 858 FPS, 12.91 FPE with 7.9 CPHPs, 778 FPS, 14.31 FPE with 10.65 BMs.
That was with the aluminum valve and original Teflon valve stem.
Swapped the Teflon stem for the Delrin Mrod stem.
It's much harder and releases with less force to make more power.
Also added a spring guide that compresses the hammer spring 3/16".
At 2600 PSI made 927 FPS, 15.07 FPE with 7.9 CPHPs and 880 FPS. 18.31 FPE with 10.65 BMs.
Backed off the PA about 2 1/2 turns from max for 835 FPS with 10.65 BMs.
Shot various pellets starting at 2750 PSI ending at 1500 PSI at 20 yards.
31 shots total including one sight in shot.
The BMs shot best at .179" CTC (sub MOA) but the CPHPs and JSBs were a close second.
More testing to come.
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Tack Driver,
How did you determine the safe upper limit for your gun? PCPs are new to me and I'm wondering about how to go about it safely. If you don't mind, I'm trying to learn here. If you'd rather not comment, no worries.
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Always follow the manufacturers safety guidelines.
A stock 3622 can be safely pumped to 2K psi.
My 3622 valve is pinned with 3 Prod screws and it (Prod) can take 3K psi.
The Prod has a 3/4" ID tube so a 3X pinned 5/8" ID tube will easily handle that.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=213423.msg156522876#msg156522876
3.14 x R2 x fill pressure=force pushing on the valve
3/4" ID tube @ 3.0K psi=1325 psi
5/8" ID tube @ 3.0K psi=0929 psi
5/8" ID tube @ 4.5K psi=1380 psi
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Time for accuracy tests.
I'll keep this short and sweet.
The stock barrel has the typical Crosman loose bore.
...
The loose 3622 barrel didn't shoot less than 1.25" CTC on either gun with 5 shots.
Is there any hope for the stock barrel? I'm seeing similar groups on mine (1-1/8" at best, 5-shots 25 yards.) Loose sounds unfixable. If some lapping or recrowning might help, it seems like a fair guinea pig for my first attempts...
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I tried several different pellets with no success.
Even tried FTT 5.55 (triple nickle) pellets.
Pellets just slide down the barrel with minimal contact.
Wide bore with ghost rifling.
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Always follow the manufacturers safety guidelines.
A stock 3622 can be safely pumped to 2K psi.
My 3622 valve is pinned with 3 Prod screws and it (Prod) can take 3K psi.
The Prod has a 3/4" ID tube so a 3X pinned 5/8" ID tube will easily handle that.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=213423.msg156522876#msg156522876
3.14 x R2 x fill pressure=force pushing on the valve
3/4" ID tube @ 3.0K psi=1325 psi
5/8" ID tube @ 3.0K psi=0929 psi
5/8" ID tube @ 4.5K psi=1380 psi
Excellent, thanks for your reply. I must've missed that, I'll reread the thread. Definitely a worthy mod.
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Ran some tests and a shot string.
Pumped the gun to 3K psi for both tests.
With the stock hammer spring and Delrin spring guide:
07.90 CPHP 955 FPS, 16.00 FPE
10.65 BM 871 FPS, 17.94
Using the 362 hammer spring/mini Delrin spring guide:
07.90 CPHP 988 FPS, 17.12 FPE
10.65 BM 929 FPS, 20.41
Ran a shot string starting at 3000 psi down to 1800 psi.
Using BM 10.65 pellets and the stock hammer spring and guide.
Gun is very backyard friendly at 79dB.
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That is a sweet tune. Nice work. Might not get much better than that.
Any luck fining an accurate pellet out to 50 yds? Was thinking the loose barrel might accommodate slugs or wide head pellets.
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I tried several different pellets with no success.
Even tried FTT 5.55 (triple nickle) pellets.
Pellets just slide down the barrel with minimal contact.
Wide bore with ghost rifling.
A LW MROD barrel would be golden, but it’s only 21” and might become too short for the tube post modification of the breech end.
I still have an extra one in .22 that I want modified to fit a 22xx/13xx breech ???
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That is a sweet tune. Nice work. Might not get much better than that.
Any luck fining an accurate pellet out to 50 yds? Was thinking the loose barrel might accommodate slugs or wide head pellets.
I was a bit surprised myself at the long, flat shot string.
I was expecting 10-12 shots or so.
Sometimes the stars align and you get lucky.
Currently using a .120" TP so might try a .100".
The FTT 555s pellets barely transferred the rifling.
I tried .217, NSA pellets earlier and they dropped through.
A .218 brass probe starts to grab so.....
Ordered .219", 20 grain NSA slugs which are the fattest they offer.
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I tried several different pellets with no success.
Even tried FTT 5.55 (triple nickle) pellets.
Pellets just slide down the barrel with minimal contact.
Wide bore with ghost rifling.
A LW MROD barrel would be golden, but it’s only 21” and might become too short for the tube post modification of the breech end.
I still have an extra one in .22 that I want modified to fit a 22xx/13xx breech ???
The Mrod LW barrel is about an inch too short.
I have a few and I wish I could have used one on this gun.
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I tried several different pellets with no success.
Even tried FTT 5.55 (triple nickle) pellets.
Pellets just slide down the barrel with minimal contact.
Wide bore with ghost rifling.
A LW MROD barrel would be golden, but it’s only 21” and might become too short for the tube post modification of the breech end.
I still have an extra one in .22 that I want modified to fit a 22xx/13xx breech ???
The Mrod LW barrel is about an inch too short.
I have a few and I wish I could have used one on this gun.
Would a tube reduction hurt its shot count significantly?
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I tried several different pellets with no success.
Even tried FTT 5.55 (triple nickle) pellets.
Pellets just slide down the barrel with minimal contact.
Wide bore with ghost rifling.
A LW MROD barrel would be golden, but it’s only 21” and might become too short for the tube post modification of the breech end.
I still have an extra one in .22 that I want modified to fit a 22xx/13xx breech ???
The Mrod LW barrel is about an inch too short.
I have a few and I wish I could have used one on this gun.
Would a tube reduction hurt its shot count significantly?
Definitely an option, it's fairly congested at the fill port.
I use a 90 degree fitting and a long custom made suppressor adapter.
The Mrod barrel would be 19 1/2" after machining.
The Challenger barrel is 21 1/2" so would need to take 2" off the tube.
The gun would definitely look better with a shorter tube.
Power could reduced slightly and still have a good shot count.
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Not sure if it's been mentioned and not an idea I'd entertain for a while, but could one shorten the over length and add some plenum space with the 1377 PCP conversation kits sold on eBay?
Round about way to fit a shorter barrel that would create other problems ( shortening the stock, but it might work.
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Checked pictures of the conversation kits and looks like it could work but I was wrong about being able.to get plenum space since the valve and poppet are.connected to the attached.cylinder sort of like s hipac.
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I tried several different pellets with no success.
Even tried FTT 5.55 (triple nickle) pellets.
Pellets just slide down the barrel with minimal contact.
Wide bore with ghost rifling.
A LW MROD barrel would be golden, but it’s only 21” and might become too short for the tube post modification of the breech end.
I still have an extra one in .22 that I want modified to fit a 22xx/13xx breech ???
The Mrod LW barrel is about an inch too short.
I have a few and I wish I could have used one on this gun.
Amazing talent and skill set you have. Just in case you want to shoot in .22 I might just try another Crosman barrel. I am getting one ragged hole at 20 yards, with stock barrel on the 3622, pretty much stock, just a lighter hammer spring. I may have won the barrel lottery. Nice work you are doing.
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I tried several different pellets with no success.
Even tried FTT 5.55 (triple nickle) pellets.
Pellets just slide down the barrel with minimal contact.
Wide bore with ghost rifling.
A LW MROD barrel would be golden, but it’s only 21” and might become too short for the tube post modification of the breech end.
I still have an extra one in .22 that I want modified to fit a 22xx/13xx breech ???
The Mrod LW barrel is about an inch too short.
I have a few and I wish I could have used one on this gun.
Would a tube reduction hurt its shot count significantly?
Definitely an option, it's fairly congested at the fill port.
I use a 90 degree fitting and a long custom made suppressor adapter.
The Mrod barrel would be 19 1/2" after machining.
The Challenger barrel is 21 1/2" so would need to take 2" off the tube.
The gun would definitely look better with a shorter tube.
Power could reduced slightly and still have a good shot count.
Thank you, sir 👍
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Ordered some 177 cal 10.3g and 13.4g FX pellets from Pyramid.
Need to make accuracy and velocity tests.
First max velocity/FPE test .
Pumped the gun to 3K psi.
Stock 3622 hammer spring, spring guide, PA -2 1/2 turns.
FX 10.3 825 FPS, 15.56FPE
Stock 3622 hammer spring, spring guide, PA max.
FX 10.3 880 FPS, 17.71FPE
FX 13.4 785 FPS, 18.83 FPE
362 hammer spring, mini spring guide, PA max.
FX 10.3 924 FPS, 19.52 FPE
FX 13.4 845 FPS, 21.24 FPE
Accuracy tests to follow.