GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Hatsan Airguns => Topic started by: Ronno6 on January 20, 2024, 03:43:50 PM
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I purchased another non-working Hatsan Vortex .25cal Torpedo off the bay.
Man, it weighs a ton!!
No trick to working on underlevers.
Gas spring had lost its pizzazz......... as advertised.
3 O-rings, a few drops of silicone oil. 1 missing E-ring later and it shoots!
Extremely quiet..........
Now, if that dad-blasted Mod. 135 would just get here.....
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I thought it odd that the Vortex gas spring had no pressure release screw........
Had to be careful to not over-pressurize.....
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I need to increase the precharge pressure in the Spring........I went to 1825 based on experience with other guns;
this one should have 2100 or so........145bar.
With the 1825 it is shooting 19.91gr pellets at 700fps....21.67 fpe.
The 135 .25caI l just resealed has the same spring; I put 2100# in it.........shooting 780fps for about 27fpe........it's a cannon!
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Which model?
Torpedo 100, 105, 150, 155?
The 100, 105 series should be shooting in the Mod95 (small piston seal) range of 19-23 fpe. Seems like that is your rifle?
The 150, 155 series should be shooting in the Mod135 (large piston seal) range of 28-34 fpe.
Mine shoot a little more accurately relative to other springers. I suspect that will fade when the barrel bearing gets worn/sloppy.
These are large heavy rifles and IMO best used for bench shooting/pesting. I would not want to carry one a walking hunt.
I find the extra steps needed to cock & load these rifles a bit annoying. The actions become muscle-memory after a few hundred pellets but it still takes more time than a simple break-barrel. IMO follow-up shot delay during hunting could be an issue.
Good work resealing those Vortex air springs. I'm up to 5 leaky Vortex springs now waiting in my repair que. I have all the o-rings, just don't have much free/fun time right now.
While I'm still a Hatsan fan the leaky Vortex air springs in my arsenal are really starting to annoy me :-\ I'll take a coil spring over a Vortex air spring ANY DAY!
edit: Newer production of the different Vortex air springs may NOT have a bleed port. I have seen that several times. Apparently a cost savings for Hatsan? I only use a hand pump when refilling Vortex spring to avoid setting pressure to high.
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Mod. 150 Sniper.
I had a difficult time loosening the bleed screw on the 135 I did yesterday.
Finally got it open, but the screwdriver slot is not pretty.
I contacted Hatsan for a replacement screw, but they said they don't sell parts for the Vortex spring.
They offered an entire ram for $38 and change..I declined.
I had another Type 2 Vortex in the drawer, so I used that one.
The gauge on my hand pump isn't too accurate.
The first Vortex spring that I pumped up ro 1825 psi.by hand was WAY overfilled.
It was in a Mod 1000 Striker, and it took 2 grown men and a small boy to cock it.
It was so strong that the single retaining pin was bending.....
I have been surprised at the amount of preload travel on these 2 rifles.......about 3/4"
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Hatsan 150 Torpedo Sniper .25cal
I brought the Vortex Spring precharge up to spec....145bar/2100psi.
With Vortex Supreme domed pellets, I am now seeing 838fps
That's 31fpe.
My work here is done.
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Ron,
I'm planning a Vortex type 2 rebuild, sourcing new o rings. Just planning to replace the o rings along the shaft end, and not replace the o rings at the fill end. Is that advisable? And do I use blue loctite on the threads when I reassemble it? You just used a few drops of silicone oil into the spring before reassembling?
Thanks in advance for your advice....
Dennis
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Ron,
I'm planning a Vortex type 2 rebuild, sourcing new o rings. Just planning to replace the o rings along the shaft end, and not replace the o rings at the fill end. Is that advisable? And do I use blue loctite on the threads when I reassemble it? You just used a few drops of silicone oil into the spring before reassembling?
Thanks in advance for your advice....
Dennis
You will need heat to remove the brass gland.
I use 90 durometer O-rings 8mm ID x 12mm OD
I purchase from McMaster.
I typically replace the outer gland to tube O-ring as I wire wheel the old loctite out of the threads.
I can't remember the dimensions off hand......
Do clean out the threads inside the tube as well.
Blue loctite on the threads and 5-6 drops of silicone inside the tube.
I don't mess with the closed end....
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Thanks! Pretty sure the second one will be easier than the first, but I have high hopes!
Dennis
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Thanks! Pretty sure the second one will be easier than the first, but I have high hopes!
Dennis
Digging the 2 old rod O-rings out is the hardest part.......