GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Benjamin Airguns => Topic started by: Ronno6 on October 22, 2023, 11:20:21 AM
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I'm rebuilding a Benji Trail XL NP BT1500WNP
The critter won't latch unless I pull the trigger when cocking.
What am I missing?
ed........OOPS.........Guess it was the sear adjust screw in the trigger.
1/2 turn out did the trick.
How far out should it be turned?
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As long as the sear engages reliably, and you're comfortable with it, leave it where it's at.
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As long as the sear engages reliably, and you're comfortable with it, leave it where it's at.
Not my gun......it needs to be safe for the owner..........
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I'm rebuilding a Benji Trail XL NP BT1500WNP
The critter won't latch unless I pull the trigger when cocking.
What am I missing?
ed........OOPS.........Guess it was the sear adjust screw in the trigger.
1/2 turn out did the trick.
How far out should it be turned?
IME this varies with every rifle/trigger-group. The manufacturing tolerances of low cost stamped/bent sheet metal means it is best to thoroughly adjust/test every trigger group for best "feel" with no misfires when bump-testing.
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Per the AD vid on youtube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bP2HhB47O7EThe trigger adjustment screw can be backed out until you can no longer feel the second stage,
then turn back in a tad til the 2nd stage wall is discernible......
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I have founf=d that there exists a very narrow window of adjustment of the trigger screw
in which the trigger will latchwhen cocked.
It's IK where it is.
!/2 turn out or 1/2 turn in, no dice.
I'm thinking maybe I should replace the trigger pack ??
And/or, possibly thr piston is worn in thr latching area ??
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Crosman is sending me a new trigger pack.
So, in the interim I went ahead and installed the RC bearing mod.
It cocks.....it fires......even with the safety on!
Not a good thing......
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It 'pears that the OD of the bearing is large enough to move the sear a smidge before the trigger hits the safety.
I'll make a smaller roller to cure that problem, but the trigger will have free plat without the torsion spring......
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Crosman is sending me a new trigger pack.
So, in the interim I went ahead and installed the RC bearing mod.
It cocks.....it fires......even with the safety on!
Not a good thing......
Never been a fan of that, because of that!
You can also mod the trigger blade by adding an adjustable screw, that's much safer. Learned about this mod by a cool fellow in California (see pic one).
Or you can go the whole nine yards and make a brand new trigger blade with two adusting screws, that makes it very similar to a T05 trigger blade with the second screw mod by Mike Mellick. But I'm the only one I know of that ever did it - see pic two. The one you see is on a TR77NPS, and it's sweeet!
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I would appreciate a bit more info on that one...
Got a link?
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the Rc bearing is safe as long as it is adjusted right (like most triggers). I have mine on both my benjis and they are a dream to shoot. The right adjustment is when the safety tab lays COMPLETELY against the trigger blade. If so, you can pull all you want and IT will not fire. The more adjustment you screw in, the larger the gap between the safety and trigger blade, the more likely it will sneak past the hump and fire the gun. Again, i have never had one go off on me. I have set up one for a client and after explaining how it works, he never has had a accidental discharge. My .02.
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I would appreciate a bit more info on that one...
Got a link?
I guess you mean for the modded Crosman trigger blade? No link unfortunately, this is from a fellow on another forum with which I spoke. I do have the procedure he sent me in a .doc with pics though. If you wish to have it, just PM me your email address and I'll gladly send it to you ;).
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The bearing mod seems to work well for some folks. The bearing REPLACES the trigger blade spring, one crosspin, and the adjustmemt screw.
The sear rides on the bearing and is heavily PRELOADED by the bearing. If your trigger group tolerances allow it you will get a light short snap single stage with the bearing mod.
That being said it has NOT worked in any of my Crosman rifles. All my Crosmans had A DANGEROUS HAIR TRIGGER with the blade VERY far forward in the trigger guard.
This just does not work for my springers. I use a slighty longer adjustment screw and wind a 0.026" wire trigger blade spring to get a 2-stage feel with a 2-2.5lb crisp release.
All these trigger group tolerances VARY so it is up to each user to find (and test) the trigger mods THEY like :-)
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I have done some more messing around with the original trigger.
When I adjust the trigger all the way in, it will cock and fire.
Back it out 1-1/2 turns, still works.
Maybe another 1/2 turn and OK.
Beyond that, nope.
Won 't latch..........
Backing out the screw should reduce the quasi first stage travel and make the second stage longer.
But, it should NOT prevent the rifle from cocking.......
Adjust the screw back in a bit and it works again.
Confused.........
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I installed a new trigger pack from Crosman....no change.
I have the adjustment screw run in far enough to permit cocking and latching.
'Bout all I can do without replacing the piston..
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Are you 100% certain the orange sear/latch is in the correct position with that "leg" outside the comp tube?
(https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/gallery/albums/AirGunImage_shy;s/Dir_1/main_7822.gif)
I know this a Hatsan Edge trigger and yours is Crosman NP2(?), but they have very similar features.
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Yes,sir
Frankly I believe the piston is worn on the ID where it pushes back the sear.
When I originally received the rifle, it would not latch unless the trigger was depressed a bit.
The sear would not be pushed back to clear the intermediate sear unless the trigger was pulled a bit.
Adjusting the screw in partially depresses the intermediate sear and permits the top sear to drop down to allow the notch in the piston to be latched....