GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Benjamin Airguns => Topic started by: Kragman1 on September 12, 2023, 07:52:34 PM
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So, I just left my local store with a 1908 or 81 Sheridan C series, clearly needs a reseal. I now have 2, the other an inherited rifle. Guess it's time to get them both up and running.
But I know that I know nothing about them and I'm not inclined to learn on them, unless it's a lot easier than I think.
Is there someone out there who will do a standard reseal on them inexpensively? And, what parts/kit would you all recommend? Not looking for a "steroid" rifle, but if standard Mac-1 parts make the most sense dollar wise, that's fine.
Thanks all!
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So, I just left my local store with a 1908 or 81 Sheridan C series, clearly needs a reseal. I now have 2, the other an inherited rifle. Guess it's time to get them both up and running.
But I know that I know nothing about them and I'm not inclined to learn on them, unless it's a lot easier than I think.
Is there someone out there who will do a standard reseal on them inexpensively? And, what parts/kit would you all recommend? Not looking for a "steroid" rifle, but if standard Mac-1 parts make the most sense dollar wise, that's fine.
Thanks all!
I'd say pm Mike Baker he is a member on GTA. His prices are very reasonable and he does good work in my experience.
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Thank you Brew Bear.
Looks like I'll be buying some tools and a couple of seal kits from Baker. A friend of mine (who actually does know what he's doing) offered to help me out with them, and he had the same recommendation.
So, sometime in the next month or two, I'll be getting an education. Looking forward to it!
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I use the tool below to remove the pins holding the pump arm and end cap in the pump tube. It can be used to replace the pins but it is a little harder.
Beats pounding those pins out with roll pins or worse straight drift pins.
https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-chain-breaker-66488.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-chain-breaker-66488.html)
Pat
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Thank you Pat!
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2 different styles of homemade bolt lug tools.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8AfE6aB8Fs8
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A cheap set of hex nut drivers that I had worked great for me on that bolt lug. The 1/8" size fit the lug bolt and has a hole in the back end of the handle to put a small rod through to give you some leverage. I stuck a small punch through there for a lever handle and put a drop of Liquid Wrench on the lug bolt. It came out easy after 50 years in there. Mac1 also had the lugs for sale if needed. (http://)
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Brian,
Were you able to get these 2 resealed ? I hope so.
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Useful video 19Sheridan57, thank you.
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Well worth getting them resealed for sure
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There's a lot of pit falls in trying to reseal an old Sheridan. The check valve seals on a raised lip with a groove around it., often the original material will be broken off and stuck in the groove. It's very hard to see, and difficult to remove. But if it's not cleaned out the new check valve will not seal. Also there are various paper/ fiber gaskets, again not easy to see. That will be stuck on some of the steps in the valve, these need to be removed. You will need a special tool to remove the valve nut and the firing valve. If the firing valve only has one transfer port hole, it will need to go back in the same orientation. There's a flat seal that goes on the front side of the firing valve and a flat seal that goes on the back side. The nut compresses these seals as it's tightened. If I hadn't done one before, I would let Mike Baker do it.
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+1.on letting Baker reseal the rifle if you don’t want to try it. Normally, I’d recommend Tim McMurray, but lately Tim has been hard to reach & wait times seem to be longer than usual.
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There is a first time for everything. I would encourage anyone out there to try a reseal job. Then, you know how. I've done a number of Sheridans and Benjamins and I don't consider myself mechanically inclined.
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I consider myself "handy" and I've successfully resealed a few. The lead seal and getting the valve back together without stripping the threads are the most difficult parts. But if I just took my time, paid attention and did't force anything it went ok.
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Yea watch out when starting the valve nut. Sometimes it takes a while
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I found that turning it counter clockwise slowly until you hear and feel the threads align then turn clockwise works.
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Second what Bill said, and I'll add that I did it a few times without the spring, which makes it easier to feel what the "drop" should feel like.
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I made a centering collar that I use for the stem removing tool.
It also fits the nut tool.
I hold the nut tool horizontally in a bench vise, then slide the action assembly onto it using the collar to keep the tool aligned.
I then rotate the action assembly until the nut threads engage........
On early models that require the valve exhaust be aligned in the body, attention must be paid to align int indexing tab with the slot in the valve body inside the action.
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Thanks everyone!
This has been put aside for now, in favor of hunting season and other projects.
But it's only delayed, and the advice here will be just as welcome when I finally get to it.