GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => German AirGun Gate => Topic started by: Teaboat on July 12, 2023, 02:51:36 AM
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How far in or out do you recommend tightening the screw located behind the trigger?
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Hi Tom.
You can dive as deep as you want in the Rekord trigger and a search will give you a lot of good information on this site.
But yo answer your question, there is no right or wrong. Try settings until you get the weight you want. I like a very real first stage followed by a crisp second stage break at under a pound or less. So I set that screw relatively loose.
If you want that trigger to shine, read in these pages how to clean, polish, and adjust both the screw behind and the screw up front.
If you’re already happy or don’t want to go into a rabbit hole, keep screwing it in (heavier pull) or out (lighter pull) an eight of a turn at a time until it makes you smile.
If you go through first stage and the trigger blade behaves like a swinging noodle, you have unscrewed too much.
Cheers. Have fun. The Rekord is awesome.
A.
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There is a lot of information on GTA as Frenchcaster pointed out.
Here is a search I just made. Copy and paste all that's below to search GTA.
site:gatewaytoairguns.org rekord adjustments
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An important key to safe use is that the blade should return all the way to the beginnning of the first stage, when you release pressure part way through the pull.
The weight where this point occurs will vary from gun to gun.
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Once you find the sweet spot in adjusting the Main trigger screw (maybe the "forbidden one too"), bend the metal tab slightly on (holding) the Main screw so that it stays put.
I always unbend this tab to begin so as not to tear up the MS aluminum threads.
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To me a super light trigger (trimmed down to ounces) is neither desirable nor necessary unless you want a dedicated target gun. And the HW 30 wouldn't normally be. I do however always remove excessive creep from a Rekord trigger. That's the #8 torx screw not accessible without some disassembly. That's only been necessary on 1 or 2 of the many Weihrauchs I have owned.
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I back that one out until there is barely enough spring tension to return the blade to the front of the first stage. I did that to a HW50 that I set up for a friend and he said it went off a couple times before he thought it should. He claimed it was dangerous, so I ran it back to about factory feel. It depends on what you are used to and what you expect.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wckit2cRc24 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wckit2cRc24)
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I back that one out until there is barely enough spring tension to return the blade to the front of the first stage. I did that to a HW50 that I set up for a friend and he said it went off a couple times before he thought it should. He claimed it was dangerous, so I ran it back to about factory feel. It depends on what you are used to and what you expect.
Since I don't hunt, I always prefer a light trigger. I have disassembled polished/tuned all my (10) Weihrauchs' to have approximately the same trigger pull.
That way when you switch guns you don't have to re-learn a radically different trigger setting.
If I hunted, definitely would go for a heavier pull force and be ready to de-cock when needed.
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How many rotations from this point do you think is best for a light trigger?
Sorry for the silly question i'm really new to the shooting world.
If you go through first stage and the trigger blade behaves like a swinging noodle, you have unscrewed too much.
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Somebody brought their trigger gauge to the range today. One of my HW 50's triggers measured 9 oz, the other 8 oz. Another guy complains that my triggers are heavy! :D
Maybe compared to his FWB match triggers? Both are safe. I like alot of overlap in the rear window. This is mentioned in the video above.
Rekord triggers can be made very nice, however they are NOT match grade.
FWIW-I prefer the setback trigger blades made by Rowan Eng.
-Y
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How many rotations from this point do you think is best for a light trigger?
Sorry for the silly question i'm really new to the shooting world.
If you go through first stage and the trigger blade behaves like a swinging noodle, you have unscrewed too much.
Do you need it so light or do you just think you need it so light? Maybe you should get more accustomed to shooting first. These experienced target shooters prefer lighter triggers but I don't think they necessarily really need it so light. Weihrauch triggers come pretty light for a beginner already. If you ever have trouble distinguishing the second stage wall it's definitely too light for you. Take your time. I can shoot tight groups with guns that don't have triggers as good as the Rekord trigger that comes on your HW30
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All good advice given so far. I would say before you even mess with the trigger, go on Yourube and watch all the videos on the Reckord trigger first and learn how the trigger works and see how the different adjustments work. Knowing the basic knowledge and adjustments beforehand will be a lot safer for you.
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I back that one out until there is barely enough spring tension to return the blade to the front of the first stage. I did that to a HW50 that I set up for a friend and he said it went off a couple times before he thought it should. He claimed it was dangerous, so I ran it back to about factory feel. It depends on what you are used to and what you expect.
Since I don't hunt, I always prefer a light trigger. I have disassembled polished/tuned all my (10) Weihrauchs' to have approximately the same trigger pull.
That way when you switch guns you don't have to re-learn a radically different trigger setting.
If I hunted, definitely would go for a heavier pull force and be ready to de-cock when needed.
Sorry .... I can't count :P.
After counting the guns in my profile .... realized I have 11 :D.
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How far in or out do you recommend tightening the screw located behind the trigger?
With my .177 HW95 and Beeman R9 Rekord trigger I hold the gun vertical, then loosen the adjustment screw till the trigger blade falls of it's own weight, then re-tighten the adjustment screw till the trigger blade rises to a stop, then turn the adjustment screw one more turn. This has worked to my satisfaction for years.
There is some caution needed when adjusting the trigger pull too loose. I helped a friend with his trigger after his R9 Rekord wouldn't allow "latch-up". I found that he had adjusted his trigger so light that part number 50a (Lever 2) in this diagram rotated past part number 52a (Lever 3) so far it jammed part number 50d (Lever 1 piston hook) so the piston latch rod couldn't set the trigger. I removed the trigger block and correctly aligned the levers, then set the trigger pull weight as explained previously. Problem was solved and the owner had no more "trigger function issues".............
(https://i.imgur.com/TKXhNbR.png)
There are a couple more Rekord adjustments that can cause an unsafe trigger that can discharge simply with a rap on the butt of the stock. You can "adjust" the "1st stage travel" by bending the "trigger blade stop" and the trigger sear engagement can be adjusted by messing with the "lawyer screw" which changes the amount of 2nd stage sear engagement visible in the "viewing port...........
(https://i.imgur.com/ke4X3Ew.jpg)
Interesting Rekord trigger tutorial. I personally never had messed with "polishing sears" but I have reduced the 2nd stage travel via the torx "lawyer screw" however to test the safety of my adjustments I would cock the gun, load a pellet, carefully re-latch the barrel, then sharply rap the stock butt in a safe location. If the gun doesn't discharge then I consider the settings to be safe..........
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFAgEQEPTsM (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GFAgEQEPTsM)
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How many rotations from this point do you think is best for a light trigger?
Sorry for the silly question i'm really new to the shooting world.
If you go through first stage and the trigger blade behaves like a swinging noodle, you have unscrewed too much.
Do you need it so light or do you just think you need it so light? Maybe you should get more accustomed to shooting first. These experienced target shooters prefer lighter triggers but I don't think they necessarily really need it so light. Weihrauch triggers come pretty light for a beginner already. If you ever have trouble distinguishing the second stage wall it's definitely too light for you. Take your time. I can shoot tight groups with guns that don't have triggers as good as the Rekord trigger that comes on your HW30
Karl has a really really good point there, and I hadn’t thought enough about that. I shoot only paper. The one gun that has pesting potential is set heavier.
Cheers
Andreas
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Hey, I have a lot of guns. Sometimes I have to just shoot what I have. I'm not really a paper puncher. Not gonna blame the trigger if I don't get the results I want. I like to shoot off hand a lot.
My hunting guns as a youngster didn't have very good triggers but I still brought home the game. When squirrel hunting we considered anything but a head shot a miss. Couldn't blame the bad trigger on the cheap .22. We all had cheap .22's. I did try to improve mine but trust me it weren't a Rekord! BTW my favorite, or most used anyway, squirrel .22 is a Winchester 69a. Not exactly a match trigger.
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I believe I came across your other comment about turning it clockwise 1 time after the blade falls. But compared to my Diana Chaser it's still takes more force to break. On another note, both my R7 and HW30 have a bit of a dead zone once it hits the second stop, is this normal?
How far in or out do you recommend tightening the screw located behind the trigger?
With my .177 HW95 and Beeman R9 Rekord trigger I hold the gun vertical, then loosen the adjustment screw till the trigger blade falls of it's own weight, then re-tighten the adjustment screw till the trigger blade rises to a stop, then turn the adjustment screw one more turn. This has worked to my satisfaction for years.
There is some caution needed when adjusting the trigger pull too loose. I helped a friend with his trigger after his R9 Rekord wouldn't allow "latch-up". I found that he had adjusted his trigger so light that part number 50a (Lever 2) in this diagram rotated past part number 52a (Lever 3) so far it jammed part number 50d (Lever 1 piston hook) so the piston latch rod couldn't set the trigger. I removed the trigger block and correctly aligned the levers, then set the trigger pull weight as explained previously. Problem was solved and the owner had no more "trigger function issues".............
(https://i.imgur.com/TKXhNbR.png)
There are a couple more Rekord adjustments that can cause an unsafe trigger that can discharge simply with a rap on the butt of the stock. You can "adjust" the "1st stage travel" by bending the "trigger blade stop" and the trigger sear engagement can be adjusted by messing with the "lawyer screw" which changes the amount of 2nd stage sear engagement visible in the "viewing port...........
(https://i.imgur.com/ke4X3Ew.jpg)
Interesting Rekord trigger tutorial. I personally never had messed with "polishing sears" but I have reduced the 2nd stage travel via the torx "lawyer screw" however to test the safety of my adjustments I would cock the gun, load a pellet, carefully re-latch the barrel, then sharply rap the stock butt in a safe location. If the gun doesn't discharge then I consider the settings to be safe..........
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"Dead zone?" Could this be some "second stage creep" where the trigger blade "slides" a bit after taking up the 1st stage and the "sear breaks"? If this is the case then the remedy is adjusting the "forbidden lawyer screw" to decrease the amount of sear engagement.
Decades ago when I bought a HW77k the factory "lawyer trigger adjustment" had about a mile of second stage creep and it seemed like "dragging a nail on concrete". A bit of adjustment on the "forbidden screw" using a torx T8 bit (I think it was size T8) made the trigger very nice.
Some like their trigger to "break like glass without warning" but I personally WANT a bit of 2nd stage "creep" so I can "sneak up on the break" when squeezing the trigger. Matter of fact, the "creep" I use is so minor that I only notice it if my trigger squeeze is "properly smooth". If I didn't notice the small amount of creep then I kinda "slapped rather than squeezed" the trigger.
Here is a partial "cut-n-paste" of a warning from the Rekord trigger adjusting procedure tutorial found on this American Airguns site.......
https://airguns.net/general_rekord_trigger.php
"Some people are heavier handed than others, and also if shooting in cold conditions, with cold fingers, it is best to have a small amount of creep, otherwise the trigger release can feel unpredictable, and can lead to premature firing of the rifle, which is unsafe.
To adjust the trigger creep, a Torx TX8 tool is needed to turn the front trigger adjusting screw (part 52b). Turning the screw clockwise will reduce creep, and anticlockwise will increase it. If the screw is turned too far clockwise, then the trigger will have no second stage pressure and it will release unpredictably during the first stage travel. This is very dangerous, and if this occurs, then the front trigger adjusting screw must be turned anticlockwise at least half a turn, or until the trigger is safe again. "