GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => PCP/CO2/HPA Air Gun Gates "The Darkside" => Topic started by: Neu on June 03, 2023, 06:04:23 PM
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So got this thing today got a really good deal on one. Swapped out the hammer spring for a lighter one and changed the trigger spring out while I was at it. It has a horrible hammer bounce right now may do a bstaley oring mod to it see if I can get rid of that and flatten the shot curve wich is not the greatest right now. Trigger is really good after spring change. Everything about the rifle feels and looks good for the sub $180 I paid for it it's a dang nice little bullpup. I attached the 70 shot string I got from 2900psi down to 1300psi definitely could have taken more shots but I just had knee surgery and it started hurting so I came back inside. Any thoughts or advice on getting that string better would be appreciated 👍
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I would run another string to see if the regulator has setted in before making any adjustments.
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I’d pick shots 43-62 and see what psi range that is and get a tighter ES with 19 shots. For 20 yards I guess it doesn’t matter but if you want to stretch things out I’d pick tighter ES over shot count.
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I would run another string to see if the regulator has setted in before making any adjustments.
Yeah I'll put a couple hundred down the barrel before diving into it.
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I was under the impression my 1358 doesnt have a regulator…does the 1357….Ive never shot my PCP ‘s close to empty….so have no accurate shot count…but from reading today stock shot count is short
…I see now why u folks tend to tinker and stretch them out..lol…good luck
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I was under the impression my 1358 doesnt have a regulator…does the 1357….Ive never shot my PCP ‘s close to empty….so have no accurate shot count…but from reading today stock shot count is short
…I see now why u folks tend to tinker and stretch them out..lol…good luck
yehah it probably doesnt I had Notos on the brain, or perhaps someone regulates one ???
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My 1358 gives me about 40-45 shots with a 40-50FPS spread with CPHP, 750-800FPS or so, good enough for 60 yards if you adjust the aim point higher or lower.
The only mods were to the trigger, I think I made the spring lighter.
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You almost got me James.. I was feeling cheated because I know my 1358 is not regulated.
BTW... even after tuning I still have some level of hammer bounce. It's even more noticeable now that I quieted the report down with a moderator. But it shoots well enough that I ain't even going to mess with it.
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Little update after a few days of playing with different hammer springs and playing around with a bstaley o-ring mod, so far so good. Stock spring with 2 coils cut and 2 turns in from flush, and 2 2.4mm orings in the appropriate diameter. 1 behind the hammer stop ( not sure what it's called) and 1 in front of it. Starting pressure was 3000psi to right around 2000psi. I'll do some more tomorrow and try 2.5 turns on the hammer spring ideally I would like high 700's to low 800's.
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Thanks for this information. Your modifications, -2 coils, 2 x 2.4mm O rings and 2 turns in on hammer spring puts it very close to UK sub 12 FtLb. The Uk version does not have the hammer spring adjuster, so it will be a bit of shimming instead.
The Mk11 is now regulated,but I am not sure if it is the combined valve/regulator as in the Snowpeak PR900, in which case I would avoid it. Very little information at present. Our discounted prices for the Mk1 is c£300, so you are lucky chaps over there.
Ps did the o rings resolve the hammer bounce and noise?
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Helped with hammer bounce, still has the ping to it though. Hard to say if that's the hammer spring or air tube making the noise.
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Helped with hammer bounce, still has the ping to it though. Hard to say if that's the hammer spring or air tube making the noise.
Thanks for the prompt reply. Some users of Snowpeak guns make Delrin discs to insert into the hammer face as a depinger. Does the Beeman hammer have enough thickness to do that? If you have changed the spring, that would tend to suggest resonance in the tube I would think.
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That's a good looking string.
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Helped with hammer bounce, still has the ping to it though. Hard to say if that's the hammer spring or air tube making the noise.
Thanks for the prompt reply. Some users of Snowpeak guns make Delrin discs to insert into the hammer face as a depinger. Does the Beeman hammer have enough thickness to do that? If you have changed the spring, that would tend to suggest resonance in the tube I would think.
Ps On AN you show a further “final” string. Can you remember the settings for that one?
Maybe try a short nylon or delrin top hat type spring guide similar to SSP?
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Little update after a few days of playing with different hammer springs and playing around with a bstaley o-ring mod, so far so good. Stock spring with 2 coils cut and 2 turns in from flush, and 2 2.4mm orings in the appropriate diameter. 1 behind the hammer stop ( not sure what it's called) and 1 in front of it. Starting pressure was 3000psi to right around 2000psi. I'll do some more tomorrow and try 2.5 turns on the hammer spring ideally I would like high 700's to low 800's.
Good shot string.
I have the Beeman 1358 and can get at 40-50 accurate shots at 50-60 yards with CPHP, in the 750-800 FPS range.
The Beeman 1357/1358 is very similar to Beeman Chief 2 Plus, Beeman Commander or Crosman Icon.
By the way, the Crosman Icon is on sale for $129 from Crosman: https://www.crosman.com/product/crosman-icon-177
It does not get any cheaper than this :)
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Your results and mods are similar to where I landed with my 1357. Cut a few coils, which made a big difference. Like Bill said, I think there is still hammer bounce (no orings were added) but it's good enough that I ain't gonna mess with it.
I also clipped the trigger spring as you did, which helped alot.
The buckrail moderators worked really well for me. I broke them twice though. All my fault, i didn't handle traveling with them well. If you remove the shroud entirely, you can add a moderator directly to that barrel and run around with an underlever, stubby bullpup pcp, which is how have it setup now more or less.
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Thanks all who have replied recently, this is a great help in nudging me down the 1357 route. I have been down the Crosman 2250 and XS78 routes previously so the modifications to this gun are no worry. I usually make my own moderators, so adapting or replacing the shroud is relatively straight forward, and I am happy to further track down and attempt to resolve the ping. I recently bought a vintage mini lathe for this type of work. The cocking rail looks beefy enough to fit a clevis fork through a hole cut in the side if I want a forward side lever, so an interesting projectgun.
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Helped with hammer bounce, still has the ping to it though. Hard to say if that's the hammer spring or air tube making the noise.
Thanks for the prompt reply. Some users of Snowpeak guns make Delrin discs to insert into the hammer face as a depinger. Does the Beeman hammer have enough thickness to do that? If you have changed the spring, that would tend to suggest resonance in the tube I would think.
Ps On AN you show a further “final” string. Can you remember the settings for that one?
Maybe try a short nylon or delrin top hat type spring guide similar to SSP?
I would have to look back at the data, I've since moved on to try and get more power out of it which seems a little harder to get a decent shot string. Currently trying to get it at a stable mid to high 800's. It shoots the knockouts really well at those speeds but it spikes to the mid 900's for about half the shot string and the poi shifts a lot with those. I may try and come up with some kinda limiter for the valve pin to only open a certain amount.
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Helped with hammer bounce, still has the ping to it though. Hard to say if that's the hammer spring or air tube making the noise.
Thanks for the prompt reply. Some users of Snowpeak guns make Delrin discs to insert into the hammer face as a depinger. Does the Beeman hammer have enough thickness to do that? If you have changed the spring, that would tend to suggest resonance in the tube I would think.
Ps On AN you show a further “final” string. Can you remember the settings for that one?
Maybe try a short nylon or delrin top hat type spring guide similar to SSP?
I would have to look back at the data, I've since moved on to try and get more power out of it which seems a little harder to get a decent shot string. Currently trying to get it at a stable mid to high 800's. It shoots the knockouts really well at those speeds but it spikes to the mid 900's for about half the shot string and the poi shifts a lot with those. I may try and come up with some kinda limiter for the valve pin to only open a certain amount.
Interesting, I had seen from your previous strings that some had high peaks and others less so. Being in the UK and not wanting to apply for a firearms certificate (this limits where I can shoot it, and certainly not at my current club), I need to stay under 12ftlb. I am concerned that the Mk11 version may have the same combined valve/reg as the PR900, which gave some folk inconsistent outputs causing them to disable the reg by taking out the washers and recommending to get the W version rather than the Gen2. I will likely still go for an unregulated one, and get a Laine reg for it if need be.
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Never thought of a side lever for the 1357. Cool idea.
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Thanks all who have replied recently, this is a great help in nudging me down the 1357 route. I have been down the Crosman 2250 and XS78 routes previously so the modifications to this gun are no worry. I usually make my own moderators, so adapting or replacing the shroud is relatively straight forward, and I am happy to further track down and attempt to resolve the ping. I recently bought a vintage mini lathe for this type of work. The cocking rail looks beefy enough to fit a clevis fork through a hole cut in the side if I want a forward side lever, so an interesting projectgun.
You could pick up all the parts for a side lever mod through Barra, I've thought about it with a 2027/2028 just milling the side of the breech and adding the stuff to it. I have a Buck rail kit laying around somewhere for a 2027 and thought about using it on the 1357 would just need to plug the gauge port. It should make it into a sub 5lbs rifle.
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Thanks all who have replied recently, this is a great help in nudging me down the 1357 route. I have been down the Crosman 2250 and XS78 routes previously so the modifications to this gun are no worry. I usually make my own moderators, so adapting or replacing the shroud is relatively straight forward, and I am happy to further track down and attempt to resolve the ping. I recently bought a vintage mini lathe for this type of work. The cocking rail looks beefy enough to fit a clevis fork through a hole cut in the side if I want a forward side lever, so an interesting projectgun.
You could pick up all the parts for a side lever mod through Barra, I've thought about it with a 2027/2028 just milling the side of the breech and adding the stuff to it. I have a Buck rail kit laying around somewhere for a 2027 and thought about using it on the 1357 would just need to plug the gauge port. It should make it into a sub 5lbs rifle.
That looks interesting, could you provide a link to the parts ref Barra?
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Thanks all who have replied recently, this is a great help in nudging me down the 1357 route. I have been down the Crosman 2250 and XS78 routes previously so the modifications to this gun are no worry. I usually make my own moderators, so adapting or replacing the shroud is relatively straight forward, and I am happy to further track down and attempt to resolve the ping. I recently bought a vintage mini lathe for this type of work. The cocking rail looks beefy enough to fit a clevis fork through a hole cut in the side if I want a forward side lever, so an interesting projectgun.
You could pick up all the parts for a side lever mod through Barra, I've thought about it with a 2027/2028 just milling the side of the breech and adding the stuff to it. I have a Buck rail kit laying around somewhere for a 2027 and thought about using it on the 1357 would just need to plug the gauge port. It should make it into a sub 5lbs rifle.
That looks interesting, could you provide a link to the parts ref Barra?
Here you go
https://barraairguns.com/collections/1100z-parts
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Most small and medium US retailers do not export to the UK now due to very tight licensing regimes on both sides, the UK includes ALL airgun parts needing an import license. I will likely have to either have simple off the shelf components, else custom make a side lever from stainless steel together with an anchor from delrin.
I will likely go the simple component route and make a side bolt that is fixed to the cocking rail near the trigger, with a 6mm clevis fork, and make a slide plate that has a flip up locking clasp like a gate latch pivoted on it.
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Hi, I bought a 1357 Mk 2 Regulated. It came over 12ftlb, which is a no no in the UK without a Firearms Certificate. A softer hammer spring sorted it, though it was a bit fiddley. I didn’t want to touch the reg or tp, and the sensitivity around the tipping point between legal an illegal was quite fine.
It now shoots 100 regulated and 15 off reg. the first 15 or so are erratic re groups, so I only fill to 3200psi, not 3500.
Power ranges between 10.7 and 11.7 ftlb with 11.4 average. Only a few in the 10.7 region
The trigger needed the usual fettle, softer spring and tighten the sear screw right in, then back1.5 turns. It is kind of 2 stage and perfectly acceptable. 10-14mm 5 shot groups at 23 yards, but often 3 in the same hole, so the variance is probably me. It is pelletfussy, Baracuda FT heavies work, Crosmans were disappointing.
No regrets so far.