GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => 3D printing and files => Topic started by: miksatx on April 27, 2023, 09:11:07 AM
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Tried a couple times printing upside down that didn't work. and no suggestions came with the file. any suggestions?
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4197065 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4197065)
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Are you using supports? It looks like this won’t print without some scaffolding.
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Are you using supports? It looks like this won’t print without some scaffolding.
no supports. ok so it should print like pictured and with supports ok got that. Thanks Mr.P
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You know, I don’t have tons of experience printing with supports because generally I design things to print unsupported and I am a relative noob to 3d printing.
I wonder if the supports will kind of mess things up if it ends up printing some inside of the circular cutouts and overhangs… when you turn on supports make sure the supports are only built up from the print bed and internal supports are turned off
I’m not sure what the best way to orient it would be. I circled an area that I think might be a problem if you turn off internal supports. it might work better flipped because that area at least should print without internal supports if it was flipped.
I’ve had problems with supports where they can be very difficult to remove if the part wasn’t designed with this problem in mind. Might require a little drilling sanding etc. to get the part looking right.
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You know, I don’t have tons of experience printing with supports because generally I design things to print unsupported and I am a relative noob to 3d printing.
I wonder if the supports will kind of mess things up if it ends up printing some inside of the circular cutouts and overhangs… when you turn on supports make sure the supports are only built up from the print bed and internal supports are turned off
I’m not sure what the best way to orient it would be. I circled an area that I think might be a problem if you turn off internal supports. it might work better flipped because that area at least should print without internal supports if it was flipped.
I’ve had problems with supports where they can be very difficult to remove if the part wasn’t designed with this problem in mind. Might require a little drilling sanding etc. to get the part looking right.
Lol wow how confusing! You would think at least the designer would input abit more info.
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It can be a little tricky with some files to get a really good print. under the support settings there’s an option you can select that says “touching build plate only” or something like that. I’m not near my computer and I couldn’t find a picture of the menu online to post here.
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It can be a little tricky with some files to get a really good print. under the support settings there’s an option you can select that says “touching build plate only” or something like that. I’m not near my computer and I couldn’t find a picture of the menu online to post here.
going to try small end down with no supports lol.
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Without supports, it will all fall apart at the surface marked in red.
That flat face will be hanging in the air if you flip the model 180 deg. Not sure what you mean by small end
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Without supports, it will all fall apart at the surface marked in red.
That flat face will be hanging in the air if you flip the model 180 deg. Not sure what you mean by small end
printing it in this position. i'll get pixs in a couple hrs, been on the table 2hrs 2 mins.
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I think I would try it first in this orientation without supports. If that fails I would set it for minimal supports like one of the other two pictures attached.
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I think I would try it first in this orientation without supports. If that fails I would set it for minimal supports like one of the other two pictures attached.
so it seems i need to work on supports. i'll have a look. i'm a novice to say the least.
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Without supports, it will all fall apart at the surface marked in red.
That flat face will be hanging in the air if you flip the model 180 deg. Not sure what you mean by small end
printing it in this position. i'll get pixs in a couple hrs, been on the table 2hrs 2 mins.
In this orientation the decorative raised ridges on the small surface could cause a problem for the unsupported face at the end of the ridges. You could move the model in the slicer in the negative Z direction so the ridges are gone and there is a continuous flat surface on the build plate. Recommend using a brim to improve the adhesion.
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when do you see supports added when in cura?
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when do you see supports added when in cura?
They will show up when you slice the model. Play with the angle parameter to adjust how much support it generates. I am not a Cura user, I don't know their exact name. Also you can add or subtract supports manually.
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Without supports I think it will fail here. This part is close to horizontal.
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when do you see supports added when in cura?
They will show up when you slice the model. Play with the angle parameter to adjust how much support it generates. I am not a Cura user, I don't know their exact name. Also you can add or subtract supports manually.
Thanks For the help! I see I need to spend more times trying new things on the build plate.
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I think I would try it first in this orientation without supports. If that fails I would set it for minimal supports like one of the other two pictures attached.
I have a version with supports that look like the bottom pix on disc ready to try.
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when do you see supports added when in cura?
In Cura, when you are in "prepare" mode there will be red patches on your model that indicate areas that need supports based on the overhang angle selected in the support parameters.
Once you slice it, if you hit preview, it will show the additional support material (and raft or brim is you use them).
You can just keep reslicing until you like the results. Sometimes minor tweaks to the model orientation strongly affect the supports.
There are overhang test models that can help figure out what work for your filament, temperatures, printer, etc.
Also note there is a strength difference. Layer to layer adhesion is weaker than the basic material.
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10hrs 17mins finished print. it's not pretty but it finished.
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ON air rifle!
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not too bad, surprised it worked out with that angle. next time just print it upside down from the original pic. depending on how well your printer handles bridging you may not need supports but if you do, they will be in a spot that will never be seen.
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ON air rifle!
Is that the SPA M16 with a PP750 grip/stock?
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ON air rifle!
Is that the SPA M16 with a PP750 grip/stock?
M16 tube type with custom stock by vash45 aka Lee's Pro Air.