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All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Machine Shop Talk & AG Parts Machining => Wood Chop Shop (Working with wood) => Topic started by: Shrubbery on December 21, 2022, 01:07:10 AM
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These wooden crosman shoulder stocks go for about $200 which is out of my price range, so I thought maybe I can have a go at my own. I ordered 5 of these 1/4" x 16" cherry boards, I plan to laminate them all together into a 1 1/4" plywood board and then cut out a profile for a new shoulder stock. Laminated stocks are usually made of thinner plies, but I'm using 1/4" because the 2240 pistol grip frame is exactly 1/4" thick, which will allow me to easily inlet the middle lamination around the grip. The hardest part is going to be inletting of the wood in some areas, but I've done some pretty tight inletting work in the past so maybe I can manage it. I chose cherry because the tight uniform grain shouldn't reveal the fact that it's a lamination as much as a wood with darker grain patterns, also cherry wood is just nice.
Here is the first 1/4" ply cut to profile, the design is partially based on the design of the stock on the Diana Chaser, and partially on a French Tulle Fusil.
(https://cdn.knockout.chat/image/3254-7d0afc4d-0833-4ebd-8659-e29bf0d77900.jpg)
What it will look like on the gun
(https://cdn.knockout.chat/image/3254-b084bb74-d8f8-4928-9fc0-8f3ced310094.jpg)
Still debating whether I want to hollow out the middle of the stock as the Crosman stocks come, or leave it full, I think it will depend on the final center of balance, the 26" barrel leaves it rather front heavy so I'm leaning toward not hollowing out.
I'll update as I make progress.
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Looks great ! A wood fore stock would be the cherry on the sundae ;)
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Looks great ! A wood fore stock would be the cherry on the sundae ;)
Thanks, I plan to work on a forestock as well with the leftover cherry, still considering ways of attaching said forestock though as I do not have the barrel bands that allow for a forestock, I may have to just epoxy straight onto the tube, but I don't like permanent attachments.
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Getting the bulk of the shaping done with a carving knife and a rasp, then going back with a (&#^((&^* file to smooth it out. You can see a hairline crack in this photo, sadly the ply cracked before I could get it glued, maybe it will be less obvious with a dark stain.
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Looks really nice, albeit it could use more cheek weld.
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Looks really nice, albeit it could use more cheek weld.
Thank you! I admit the ergonomics aren't optimal due to a thickness of only 1 1/4" with 5 plies of 1/4" cherry. Feels quite nice with iron sights, with a scope, however, the comb is sharp on the jaw, not the best.
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Hi, you could use the Crosman 2250B hardware to attach the forestock to the tube, these parts are not very expensive. See the red circled part numbers in the picture:
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To get around the short/thin comb you could add a leather pad or maybe make a cut out for an adjustable comb.
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Looks great ! A wood fore stock would be the cherry on the sundae ;)
Thanks, I plan to work on a forestock as well with the leftover cherry, still considering ways of attaching said forestock though as I do not have the barrel bands that allow for a forestock, I may have to just epoxy straight onto the tube, but I don't like permanent attachments.
With that flat plat trigger attachment HAPPYMECANIC was alluding to, a barrel band is not normally needed for as long as the tube channel is not a wonky fit.
I have Steve Corcoran 11” long laminate forearms that do not really need barrel band attachments if I so wish.
As is, they’re solid with just the trigger plate anchor.
If it’s very long though I’d just secure the front end with a sticky double-tape or something.
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To get around the short/thin comb you could add a leather pad or maybe make a cut out for an adjustable comb.
Or a GodAGrip sorbothane one-side cheek pad, the thin one, ‘cuz the fatter one somewhat displaces your cheek weld from the center line.
Dunno if it will work though ‘cuz that comb is so curved.
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Thanks for the suggestions. I will probably go for the 2250B barrel band to attach the forestock, that's a grand idea.
Got the stock nearly finished. After filling those hairline cracks I sanded the entire stock down to 300 grit, then I gave it two coats of stain, the dark stain did a good job concealing the imperfections and cracks, but it was a tad more red than I'd have liked. After the stain I sealed the wood with two coats of boiled linseed oil and replaced the screws with brass flat head screws. All that's left is to shape a piece of steel or brass into a butt plate. I'm pleased with how well concealed the laminations are after the stain and oil finish, I feel like you can hardly tell it's not a solid piece of wood.
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That stain looks really nice. I always love cherry and agree that it doesn't look like laminate.