GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => 3D printing and files => Topic started by: miksatx on October 08, 2022, 02:01:01 PM
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Looking to purchase a stl file to print for a ldc 4" long and 30mm diameter with 1/2x20 threads.
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Pm subscriber.
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Pm subscriber.
Ok
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KerndTC makes them.
He has an eBay site too.
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KerndTC makes them.
He has an eBay site too.
I tried searching eBay didn't find his seller info.
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Send him a PM.
I think he is out of town though.
FT match in Phoenix.
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Send him a PM.
I think he is out of town though.
FT match in Phoenix.
I’ve already sent subscriber the info I’ll see what he comes up with. Thanks Frank in Fairfield.
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Mike,
Your one image has a .25 LDC. Are you looking to duplicate that, or is the second one a different caliber? 4" is pretty short, but enough to halve the apparent report, if you are talking 30 or 40 FPE.
The higher the power, the thicker the walls need to be to be strong enough. So that uses up more internal expansion volume.
The plan is to create a monolithic print, rather than a canister that opens to accept hair curler style elements. It is likely to sound different to the one you have. So, it is a matter of your expectations or goal for such a device being achievable, or not.
EDIT. I don't have such a design ready made, but could certainly generate a print file meeting your requirements, if you elect not to go with KerndTC. See his contact info in next post.
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Contact info for KerndTC:
Email: camsprecisionairguns@gmail.com
PayPal: cameron_kerndt@yahoo.com
Phone: 916 Five31 2349
From: https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/wts-avenger-origin-and-nova-seneca-moderator.1257378/ (https://www.airgunnation.com/threads/wts-avenger-origin-and-nova-seneca-moderator.1257378/)
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Mike,
For what it is worth, the cross section image below is for a basic 30 mm OD by 101 mm length LDC in .25 caliber. There is a placeholder socket for the 1/2 UNF thread (not modeled yet). The expected stud length is 12 mm.
I made the outer wall taper down towards the front, so as to better support the weight, and because the air pressure is higher at the rear than the front.
If this is suitable, I will add the thread to the model and generate the print file. Else, please be specific about what you would prefer.
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Considering how close I was to being done, I figured I might as well add the 1/2 20 thread. See image below. I added some clearance to the thread so that it should screw on, without interference, as printed.
STL print file is attached at the bottom of this reply. Anyone can download and use it, at no charge.
The part needs to be printed with the threaded hole facing up, away from the printer platen. Failure to do this will cause the cone structures to collapse as the parts must be printed with "supports off". See image.
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Thanks so much subscriber. Fantastic just what I need!
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Mike,
Your one image has a .25 LDC. Are you looking to duplicate that, or is the second one a different caliber? 4" is pretty short, but enough to halve the apparent report, if you are talking 30 or 40 FPE.
The higher the power, the thicker the walls need to be to be strong enough. So that uses up more internal expansion volume.
The plan is to create a monolithic print, rather than a canister that opens to accept hair curler style elements. It is likely to sound different to the one you have. So, it is a matter of your expectations or goal for such a device being achievable, or not.
EDIT. I don't have such a design ready made, but could certainly generate a print file meeting your requirements, if you elect not to go with KerndTC. See his contact info in next post.
i'm actualy using it not so much to silence but as a extension when shooting over fx chrony. all my guns set low power 750fps for my .22
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Ok it’s on the printer 6% done lol. Printing in petg but noticed that the anycubic vyper doesn’t have it listed in the menu. Is this some thing that will cause problems?
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Did you just download it and print or did you slice it first?
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Did you just download it and print or did you slice it first?
sliced it. had to figure out how to turn it upside down. then slice it. 50% done looks great so far.
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In the program on the anycubic it dose not matter as the Gcode will override everything and control temps and such.
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Finished! And works.
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Looks purple I mean good.
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Looks purple I mean good.
the purple, the war dept thinks purple looks cool lol!
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is it ok to pause and clean the brass tip?
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Hi Mike,
Glad the print worked for you.
While I generate designs for 3D printing, I don't have knowledge about the care and feeding of specific printers. I think that pausing to clean a nozzle might be better than continuing with a messy print. I also suspect there would be a line at the pause and would wonder if there might be weakness there due to the previously printed filament being cold. On the other hand, it would not surprise me if the printing software has a way to compensate for such stop/start events.
If you go to youtube and type in the search window, the brand and model name of your printer, and the words "pausing to clean nozzle", you would find lots of useful info to help. Or users on GTA could probably help you.
So, your Mutant was already pretty quiet. Does that mean that adding the new extension makes hardly any difference? Just curious about it.
How is the thread fit? I had to guess how much to shave the nominal thread, to balance ease of screwing on, against strength. Without any knowledge about your particular printer.
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Hi Mike,
Glad the print worked for you.
While I generate designs for 3D printing, I don't have knowledge about the care and feeding of specific printers. I think that pausing to clean a nozzle might be better than continuing with a messy print. I also suspect there would be a line at the pause and would wonder if there might be weakness there due to the previously printed filament being cold. On the other hand, it would not surprise me if the printing software has a way to compensate for such stop/start events.
If you go to youtube and type in the search window, the brand and model name of your printer, and the words "pausing to clean nozzle", you would find lots of useful info to help. Or users on GTA could probably help you.
So, your Mutant was already pretty quiet. Does that mean that adding the new extension makes hardly any difference? Just curious about it.
How is the thread fit? I had to guess how much to shave the nominal thread, to balance ease of screwing on, against strength. Without any knowledge about your particular printer.
it does help quiet the gun down. could be improved taking it down for .177 clearances maybe shorten the lip on the forcing cone, i guess that's what it called. the screw on was pretty tight. i'ii go check out utube lol.
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Mike,
I can certainly make a smaller bore version for .177. If you have specific design inclinations, then a sketch posted here, or emailed to me would help.
I made the one above for .25 because that is the only caliber info I had. Rather than waiting for your reply on the caliber score, I was itching to put out a design so you could get started printing it. I ran the STL through Cura to see if it would slice as a quality check. That reported a print time of something like 7 hours; so the sooner you started, the sooner you would have something.
I also made the through hole diameter generous in case your printer closed it in. If there is any lack of concentricity or pellet wobble on exiting the barrel muzzle, a smaller bore LDC will be quieter, right up to the point where bits of plastic are knocked off on the inside due to "direct contact".
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Every time I tried to pause a print and restart it did not go back to where it was it just restarted where i moved it to. So I just accept it as a failure and restart. My other thought process is if it's clogged then the part is not how I desired it and dismissed it as trash.
I hope others chim in with a good way to clean mid print.
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Mike,
I can certainly make a smaller bore version for .177. If you have specific design inclinations, then a sketch posted here, or emailed to me would help.
I made the one above for .25 because that is the only caliber info I had. Rather than waiting for your reply on the caliber score, I was itching to put out a design so you could get started printing it. I ran the STL through Cura to see if it would slice as a quality check. That reported a print time of something like 7 hours; so the sooner you started, the sooner you would have something.
I also made the through hole diameter generous in case your printer closed it in. If there is any lack of concentricity or pellet wobble on exiting the barrel muzzle, a smaller bore LDC will be quieter, right up to the point where bits of plastic are knocked off on the inside due to "direct contact".
If there some way to incorporate the Tiapan forcing cone design I think it will help. I believe it's one reason the Tiapan are so quiet.
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So, Mike; I interpreted your "shorter cone" comment and generated a .177 version of this LDC. The outside dimensions and thread are the same as before. See cross section image below.
For reference, the bore of the .177 version is a nominal 6.5 mm in diameter. In theory you could shoot a .22 through it, but in my opinion there is a 50% chance of baffle strike with only a nominal .02" radial clearance. So, if you want a .22 version, ask for it. Or use the .25 version. You will need to look at the muzzle of each device before you screw it on to see if it is "small", (medium) or "large" caliber.
The STL print file is attached.
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Mike,
Is that cone at the muzzle end of the Taipan LDC? Or at the breech end?
I can certainly stretch the last cone, or all of them. Meanwhile, I went with my interpretation of your previous post. See .177 design with STL above.
EDIT:
How long is what looks like a parallel tubular section on that Taipan part? Is the tubular section ID the same at both ends ? What is the ID at both ends?
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Mike,
Is that cone at the muzzle end of the Taipan LDC? Or at the breech end?
I can certainly stretch the last cone, or all of them. Meanwhile, I went with my interpretation of your previous post. See .177 design with STL above.
EDIT:
How long is what looks like a parallel tubular section on that Taipan part? Is the tubular section ID the same at both ends ? What is the ID at both ends?
It the cone out the muzzle end and you are correct with my interpretation. ID same at both ends. 26.82 on ID.
The shroud is 6 1/4" L the baffle stack takes up 3 3/4" front of the shroud. I'll get this latest stl downloaded and read for tomorrow.
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Mike,
26.82 mm must be the shroud ID; right?
I am asking what the bore diameter is for the long silver cone in your image?
Would it matter if I made your 4" length slightly longer for a stretched front cone version. 1/4 to 1/2" longer perhaps.
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Mike,
26.82 mm must be the shroud ID; right?
I am asking what the bore diameter is for the long silver cone in your image?
Would it matter if I made your 4" length slightly longer for a stretched front cone version. 1/4 to 1/2" longer perhaps.
Yeah that bore diameter is tapered I'll get back to you with that.
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Yeah that bore diameter is tapered I'll get back to you with that.
Thanks. What is the OD of the spigot, with or without taper? I presume the idea is to duplicate that Taipan spigot as close as practically possible.
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Yeah that bore diameter is tapered I'll get back to you with that.
Thanks. What is the OD of the spigot, with or without taper? I presume the idea is to duplicate that Taipan spigot as close as practically possible.
Spigot OD 26.86mm so the hole is 10.20mm at the other end is 6.55mm as close you are correct.
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I had made up a shorty a few years ago. using a 1/2-20 adapter sold by talon tunes the LDC was just a hollow can with a single layer of outdoor carpet glued to the inner tubes wall.
Crazy how much lower the noise was ... Simple VOLUME can do wonders.
Hot Pink ... flashy, but no room to talk with pink taipan :o
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I had made up a shorty a few years ago. using a 1/2-20 adapter sold by talon tunes the LDC was just a hollow can with a single layer of outdoor carpet glued to the inner tubes wall.
Crazy how much lower the noise was ... Simple VOLUME can do wonders.
Hot Pink ... flashy, but no room to talk with pink taipan :o
It's much nicer looking then purple on a black, white and red stock lol.
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yes subscriber you can make it bigger. sorry i missed that.
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Mike,
I added a reasonable facsimile of the spigot design, interpreted to be strong enough in plastic. The ID at the near and far ends are what you gave me, but I had to guess at the length. The length of the spigot added about 8 mm to the overall LDC length. See images below.
STL is attached.
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Mike,
I was still not happy with the shape of the spigot, so I made more changes to make it look like your photos - see cross section images below. The cylindrical spigot looks more like your silver part. The taper spigot looks more stable against vibration. In terms of directing air flow away from the pellet path, the cylindrical spigot is better. In terms of trapped air volume, the taper spigot is better. Your choice which you prefer.
Either way, the result is that the LDC length has grown to 120 mm.
STL files attached.
I hope this effort meets your needs. Apart from possibly a .22 version, I think I am done here.
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great work subscriber i'll give them both a try.
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Wow that did the trick! Both work really good I don’t hear any noise at the muzzle, only noise now is hammer. I may try drilling a hole in the hammer adjuster see if that helps.
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Jolly good!
What about grouping and point of impact shift?
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Jolly good!
What about grouping and point of impact shift?
Grouping great no point of impact shifting.
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What power level are you shooting at, Mike?
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What power level are you shooting at, Mike?
I’ll have to get back to ya setting up chrony right now.
8.6 fpe