GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => 3D printing and files => Topic started by: Insanity on August 03, 2022, 10:18:11 PM
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I purchased not one but 2 of them from the thread Travis shared. I have one now and have some test prints done. The second one is on its way yet.
So far with just what ever settings were preset I was satisficed with the appearance. I have played with some settings for PETG and doing some smaller quicker test prints. I decided to throw some settings I used with my ender3 at it just to see whats going on.
So far upped the print temp from 215 to 220 I will do some visual of a part I print a lot. I will adjust until its in a visual and durable state and start ripping off parts that have been ordered.
Things I like full size SD card and I think a micro also in the touch screen, maybe even USB? It came with a USB cable but I dont want to assume. The extruder has a built in light thats neat. Feed filament is a nice feature. Auto bed leveling is such a nice feature just built in, like here ya go kiddo no more fiddling with a feeler blade and burning your hands on a hot bed. It is super quiet I have it just feet from my bed and i can sleep and not be bothered by it at all its next to silent and I have had 2 other printers that were so loud I would only print at day or in a room far from my bed room and it was still too loud. Built in tool drawer would not think that is a item that means much but yep it dose. Duel Z steppers that is super nice and mostly reserved for high dollar printers in the past.
Things I dont like the magnetic print bed I like glass but this one is getting it done. I dont plan to hot swap so its a useless feature for me. It dose the ender3 pass fully off the bed into open space I can fix that if its supposed to do that on the bed with off set. I just find it strange that setting is that way might just be mine. The style of print nozzle that's a lot of threads and not as available as the standard ones I am accustomed to using. The spool holder is well its there. The Bowden tube is cheap and will fail I have some of the Capricorn that will replace it before long.
I will report back as time passes on changes and such and the results.
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I ordered my printer on August 1st, it should be delivered tomorrow!
1. what kind of tubing should I buy to replace the Bowden tube?
2. should I look for a replacement head?
3. any step-by step video tutorials?
I saw your prints and I don't see any problems but then again, what do I know, they look good to me.
Is this the printer head (no, I'm not being silly, I just don't know) https://www.anycubic.com/collections/for-vyper/products/hotend-for-vyper (https://www.anycubic.com/collections/for-vyper/products/hotend-for-vyper)
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Here is a amazon link to the brand I shop around and get what I feel is the best deal. This one has the quick release ends I know for sure one or the other maybe both can be used when they fail. They do fail but very rarely I replaced 2 over the course of several hundreds of hours printing.
https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Capricorn-Filament-Extruder-Fitting/dp/B08BHVWNWK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1SG81NEQ0FEW2&keywords=capricorn+ptfe+tube&qid=1659576986&sprefix=%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQUVOTEc1UzFZTThHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODE3Mjk5SjZKRTRSSkNMVUw1JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwMTkyODMyUVAwTVlGTVRONlZQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== (https://www.amazon.com/Authentic-Capricorn-Filament-Extruder-Fitting/dp/B08BHVWNWK/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1SG81NEQ0FEW2&keywords=capricorn+ptfe+tube&qid=1659576986&sprefix=%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzQUVOTEc1UzFZTThHJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODE3Mjk5SjZKRTRSSkNMVUw1JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwMTkyODMyUVAwTVlGTVRONlZQJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==)
No it comes with one spare and if you gently clean it and are not printing like I do it will last a very long time. Also I "wipe" my filament kind of like if you seen a felt wipe on a mig welder. I just use a lint free piece or cloth or paper towel in a binder clip. The idea is to wipe off the dust with no friction. That will prevent clogs, pore surface finish and premature wear on the nozzle.
I dont know I didnt look this is my 3rd printer so I have figured most of it out and moving to this one was pretty well like my old one. So YouTube is going to be your best bet and no one is better than the other because people explain things differently. https://www.thingiverse.com/ (https://www.thingiverse.com/) is a great place to get files and use their forum TUNS of dedicated resources there. I also will answer any questions and help guide you or anyone else. I messed up a few spools of filament so I know how to not do things also. I learned this all on my own by watching TY and reading on thingyveres then trial and error.
Last be very patient with this it takes hours to see a result of a change some times it takes days or weeks to figure out the root cause. Odds are I think the base setting with a few minor tweaks will suit you and most people, at lest in the beginning. Mostly those will be infill, wall thickness, adhesion, hot end temp and bed temp. Those are the 5 most changes I do from season to season and spool to spool.
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Thank you, Sir! Now I'm getting excited, my wife not so much.... she saw me order the printer and her comment (with a sad face) was : Another hobby? How much are you gonna spend on this one?
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This one is really cheap and it progresses other hobby's, its a hobby's hobby. This is a buy once cry once and to feed it 20 bucks of filament when you need it. I also recommend if you have long pauses between prints seal it up back in the bag with the desiccant pack or if you can vac seal it that is even better. PLA loved to soak up water quick PETG will over time also. There are dry boxes out there you can purchase or DIY but meh Ill bake it for a few hours if I need it now and cant wait for fresh. I do mean toss it in the oven at just over waters boiling point for a few hours. If I know I wont be printing with in up to a month yes a month Ill toss my PETG back in the bag it came in and take as much air out as I can.
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This one is really cheap and it progresses other hobby's, its a hobby's hobby. This is a buy once cry once and to feed it 20 bucks of filament when you need it. I also recommend if you have long pauses between prints seal it up back in the bag with the desiccant pack or if you can vac seal it that is even better. PLA loved to soak up water quick PETG will over time also. There are dry boxes out there you can purchase or DIY but meh Ill bake it for a few hours if I need it now and cant wait for fresh. I do mean toss it in the oven at just over waters boiling point for a few hours. If I know I wont be printing with in up to a month yes a month Ill toss my PETG back in the bag it came in and take as much air out as I can.
Yet another use for the vacuum food saver machine! Thank you!
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Matt, one quick question. Does the Vyper printer have a USB interface to transfer files or just the card? I didn't open the box yet, I want to have everything together before I put it together.
Thank you,
Ted
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Im doing a direct drive conversion today using the following.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5114510/files (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5114510/files)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M6D1XTT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M6D1XTT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)
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Matt, one quick question. Does the Vyper printer have a USB interface to transfer files or just the card? I didn't open the box yet, I want to have everything together before I put it together.
Thank you,
Ted
It can be connected to the computer via USB but it comes with a sd card and a USB reader. So if that was a concern it's not because they thought of everything.
Travis I'd like to see some print differences between the stock way vs direct drive.
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Im doing a direct drive conversion today using the following.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5114510/files (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5114510/files)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M6D1XTT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08M6D1XTT?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1)
Given my novice status, does this mean you are converting from Bowden feed to direct feed for the filament?
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Thank you both for the replies, and Travis, a step by step tutorial is "needed" here. You guys are light years ahead of me !
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This one is really cheap and it progresses other hobby's, its a hobby's hobby. This is a buy once cry once and to feed it 20 bucks of filament when you need it. I also recommend if you have long pauses between prints seal it up back in the bag with the desiccant pack or if you can vac seal it that is even better. PLA loved to soak up water quick PETG will over time also. There are dry boxes out there you can purchase or DIY but meh Ill bake it for a few hours if I need it now and cant wait for fresh. I do mean toss it in the oven at just over waters boiling point for a few hours. If I know I wont be printing with in up to a month yes a month Ill toss my PETG back in the bag it came in and take as much air out as I can.
Yet another use for the vacuum food saver machine! Thank you!
"Really cheap" well, that's true if you stay away from the Amazon filament listings.. glow in the dark - cool, wonder how the copper one looks, etc
My gas oven does not control the air temp well enough at the low setting (overshoots when it comes on) probably good to check before putting the filament in. I ended up using a storage bin that I added some weather stripping to to seal it. I use the reusable silica gel https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B087PCYFMW (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B087PCYFMW) and recharge it in the microwave. I also tried the reusable vacuum storage bags but they became tedious once I had several rolls. Of course, if you are out in Palm Springs you are good to go.
Hot plastics give off fumes, some worse than others. Right now I just close the door and open the window but I need to configure something more long term.
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Thank you, Sir! Now I'm getting excited, my wife not so much.... she saw me order the printer and her comment (with a sad face) was : Another hobby? How much are you gonna spend on this one?
Stay strong… Life is for the living enjoy yourself while you can. I have been able to get this hobby up and running and sustain it without much expense other than the initial outlay and an occasional spool of filament.
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This one is really cheap and it progresses other hobby's, its a hobby's hobby. This is a buy once cry once and to feed it 20 bucks of filament when you need it. I also recommend if you have long pauses between prints seal it up back in the bag with the desiccant pack or if you can vac seal it that is even better. PLA loved to soak up water quick PETG will over time also. There are dry boxes out there you can purchase or DIY but meh Ill bake it for a few hours if I need it now and cant wait for fresh. I do mean toss it in the oven at just over waters boiling point for a few hours. If I know I wont be printing with in up to a month yes a month Ill toss my PETG back in the bag it came in and take as much air out as I can.
Yet another use for the vacuum food saver machine! Thank you!
"Really cheap" well, that's true if you stay away from the Amazon filament listings.. glow in the dark - cool, wonder how the copper one looks, etc
My gas oven does not control the air temp well enough at the low setting (overshoots when it comes on) probably good to check before putting the filament in. I ended up using a storage bin that I added some weather stripping to to seal it. I use the reusable silica gel https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B087PCYFMW (https://www.amazon.com/s?k=B087PCYFMW) and recharge it in the microwave. I also tried the reusable vacuum storage bags but they became tedious once I had several rolls. Of course, if you are out in Palm Springs you are good to go.
Hot plastics give off fumes, some worse than others. Right now I just close the door and open the window but I need to configure something more long term.
Cheap is relative to the wallet holder, but crapola material is not worth buying. I have bought some &^^& and it really made things hard to get right. Then when I got some quality material I had to redo every setting I messed with to get back to where I like it. Thats why I try to buy only one brand, save if its out of stock but when is black PETG, PLA, and ABS out by most. I know what you mean about a gas oven not being all that precise maybe a toaster oven if you wanted to go that rout I think the one I have is large enough for a spool I just don't care to mess with it. For most people even myself its just best to do the dry box method for long term storage and I have yet to do it. Mostly because I will save up prints for my self and use a fresh spool. Now I will use the best I have for a customer and if I don't have that great of material on hand Ill buy a spool and store it how I want and or then get to printing stuff for my self.
As for fumes ABS is the worst for stink.
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DONT cheap out on fillament its not worth it. I use overture and SUNLU but have had good luck with Hatchbox as well. Dont buy off brand it will haunt you trying to get it to work.
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DONT cheap out on fillament its not worth it. I use overture and SUNLU but have had good luck with Hatchbox as well. Dont buy off brand it will haunt you trying to get it to work.
Thank you, that was exactly why I asked about filament. If we go by reviews on some big vendor sites.... personally I get burned more often than not so I tend to trust the opinions from people like you gents.
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Overture is a high quality budget filament its what I am using right now but I use hatchbox also. One thing about overture and hatchbox is they have an estimation window of what you have left. From my experience I dont have to change many of my settings between the two. They are almost as if its the same material on a different spool.
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An electric convection oven could work. A classic radiant toaster oven could melt/burn the exposed filaments.
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Second one is here I opened it to inspect. Came with a different sd card and scraper no test filament other wise looks new unused.
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I am playing with some settings today to get rid of some stringing. I am going to need a large work surface if I am to get both of these up and running.
I might look for a tighter fitting spool holder that thing is hanging WAY out there that would save on some space required for width. Only problem with that is it would cover my base board heater. I have a lot of other life activities to do before I can even bother with it right now so not really in a big big hurry to do anything right now.
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With a bunch of print beds running at 70C, who needs a base board heater? ;)
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I run up to 90c if I make up the settings. Right now I am doing a print test for nozzle temp. I tossed on a fresh spool and still stringing after changing a lot of settings. This is a tower that changes temp as it goes. If I like it I will share the files and thingy verse link.
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Well I am stumped right now and probably overlooking something simple with this terrible stringing. I have tried many settings and even just letting 2 premade Gcode files run. It did better at temps way below what PETG prints at at least on my ender3 would have. But other arears suffered greatly that being overhang and finish gloss.
I may have received some filament that isn't all that great it happens with the lower cost materials. I am ordering some from another of my preferred brands to see if I get better results.
Here is a link to the files I used.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4993638 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4993638)
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I am trying a different file I realized that what I am printing really lends strongly to stinging so one large file will tell me more.
So I'm trying this duck here.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2744546 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2744546)
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My Anycubic Vyper wont complete even a small moderator, It get to about 3 inches and then it crashes into the part nocks it loose from the bed and continues to try and print, anything shorter does just fine.I've tried three different projects and they all fail about the same height.
I'm about ready to throw this thing in the trash or give it to my son about the same difference.
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Dang that really not worthy I don't know what to say to help other than to contact anycubic and see if there is a update or something to correct that issue.
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My Anycubic Vyper wont complete even a small moderator, It get to about 3 inches and then it crashes into the part nocks it loose from the bed and continues to try and print, anything shorter does just fine.I've tried three different projects and they all fail about the same height.
I'm about ready to throw this thing in the trash or give it to my son about the same difference.
Well, that stinks! I hope you get it sorted out. I know that doesn't help you but I empathize.
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My Anycubic Vyper wont complete even a small moderator, It get to about 3 inches and then it crashes into the part nocks it loose from the bed and continues to try and print, anything shorter does just fine.I've tried three different projects and they all fail about the same height.
I'm about ready to throw this thing in the trash or give it to my son about the same difference.
Have you tried using either a brim or raft for bed adhesion? Tall, narrow things often need that.
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I'm not sure what you mean by raft or brim
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If you are using CURA, these two options add a wide base to your part to improve adhesion. Brim is just a thin perimeter. Raft is like a thin platform for the part to sit on. Both are easy to remove after printing. I would not print a moderator without using at least a Brim.
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Thanks Stan for pointing that out with a pic.
So was printing off a part for a customer and...
What? That's a MASSIVE off set glitch. My foggy brain at 4am was like why didn't it print support there that's just stupid. Then after I tossed in my contacts and scrubbed my scummies and came back to it I seen what happened.
Have another one printing just to see what happens.
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:o
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It was supposed to be a 12 hour print that was after 14 hours and it still wasn't done.
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I’ve had really good luck with overture pla pro with a 60 degree bed and 120 degree nozzle. Printing tall / skinny items definitely can cause adhesion issues. I have actually gently added buttresses of masking tape AS it was printing (for one very tall and narrow ldc to minimize any size-to-side wobble as it printed). It worked maybe woudl have worked without the buttresses.
A freaking GREAT printer is the Sovol sv-01 direct drive printer. I added the bed leveling probe for about $50. Other than the expected tinkering with bed temperature I have had great prints without issues from day one. I mean so many large, complex, multilayered objects with internal overhangs and the whole nine yards.
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"dang" you Matt! I took the plunge and have an Any on the way.
;D
If I happen to die? The Wife did it so report her ok?
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LOL I will get you set up once it lands on the porch.
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well I had a brim around it about 3/8 inch all around so I guess I'll try a different file or turn on side and try that.
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Most LDC designs want to be printed standing up. I don't think the internals will work well printed on the side.
I would try a wider brim or raft.
When you leveled the bed, the nozzle gap may be set a little high and you are not squishing the first layer into the bed for adhesion.
Tall skinny things are some of the harder things to print.
Good luck
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LOL I will get you set up once it lands on the porch.
That will help alot. Thank You.
My many years doing 3D model work will be a big bonus, Thankfully!
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LOL I will get you set up once it lands on the porch.
That will help alot. Thank You.
My many years doing 3D model work will be a big bonus, Thankfully!
And when you guys get done, stop by my house please. Come to think of it, it might be a bit of a drive....
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I am trying a different file I realized that what I am printing really lends strongly to stinging so one large file will tell me more.
So I'm trying this duck here.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2744546 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2744546)
i had bad stringing as well but have learned how to completely eliminate them in the settings. 1. Combing mode =only in Infill 2. infill pattern=lines 3. retraction 4mm 3. top surface skin layers =3 4. wall line count=4 5. enable retraction= yes 6. retraction distance 4 7. avoid printed parts when retracting=on 8. avoid supports =Yes 8. enable print cooling=yes 9.optimize wall printing order=yes 10. wall
ordering=outside to inside 11. motronic top/bottom = yes 12. enable acceleration control=yes 13. z hop when retracted=off
I use these settings with all filament and only change temps. My prints are perfect and have 0 stringing but I also use a filament dryer.
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Here are some pics with those settings.
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My Anycubic Vyper wont complete even a small moderator, It get to about 3 inches and then it crashes into the part nocks it loose from the bed and continues to try and print, anything shorter does just fine.I've tried three different projects and they all fail about the same height.
I'm about ready to throw this thing in the trash or give it to my son about the same difference.
Hate to tell you but its you not the machine, It only does what you tell it to do. I would click on z-hop over printed parts and also have a brim around parts. Theres a strong learning curve but dont get discouraged its normal. Watch youtube clips and ask questions. Trying to figure it out yourself at first is not fun or easy.
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When I print one part I don't have stringing it's when I print a bunch of specific smaller parts. I don't have time to mess with it much. I have been deferring a lot of work to others. I'm here to further the 3d printing aspect of airguns not make money.
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When I print one part I don't have stringing it's when I print a bunch of specific smaller parts. I don't have time to mess with it much. I have been deferring a lot of work to others. I'm here to further the 3d printing aspect of airguns not make money.
Reduce retractions and double retractions speed.
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I've had good results by dropping the EO temp a little at a time.
Running PETG at 216 EO temp right now and no stringing.
And you know what I'm printing.
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When I print one part I don't have stringing it's when I print a bunch of specific smaller parts. I don't have time to mess with it much. I have been deferring a lot of work to others. I'm here to further the 3d printing aspect of airguns not make money.
Reduce retractions and double retractions speed.
Like I said I dont have time to mess with it. Everything is working out the way I want, my problem parts are someone else's problem now. He is up to the task and has the time and from his feed back everything is going well.