GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Vintage Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Crosshairs on October 24, 2011, 12:03:20 AM
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I picked this one up about 3 months ago it's mint all i had to do is replace the Co2 cap o ring.
Mike
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nice nice nice is all i can say what a find i got some finds kinda like that
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nice nice nice is all i can say what a find i got some finds kinda like that
I go to alot of yard sales and find lots of great deals.
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nice
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Thanks ;) I think i will use this in the Co2 pistol match this month.
Mike
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This is from the Mac1 Drafts file. I send this out when people buy my $25 MKI or II rebuild kits.
Depending on how much Pellgumoil was used the gun could be anywhere from easy to nearly impossible to tear down. After 40 years the crud that stuff leaves behind works like loctite.
HEAT the areas around the valve, rear sight and piercing group after removal of grips. Use a hair dryer on full hot and get the whole frame nice and toasty to loosen the crud up and make the seals as soft as possible.
This will make the removal of the piercing seal, bolt, valve and barrel much easier.
You can get a multi function spanner or just abuse some small needle nose to get front nut off.
A seal kit is $25 from Mac1 and NO ONE provides better parts. 100% Urethane.
Sorry. The valve kit will raise the power slightly as the valve head is smaller/less intrusive and makes the gun shoot 5% harder at least. On power adjustable models you can turn it down to restore power to stock levels.
Cocking nut is on the right side if the gun is correctly assembled.
Pry point on valve can be levered across a large driver laying in trigger area. HEAT more if it won't budge.
I literally fry the seal out of the early piercing assy. The black seal is so rock hard it is impossible to pick out and it is very easy to thrash the groove the oring sits in. Getting the nut of the early caps that retains the small shaft seal can be a real problem. If you don't have the perfect fitting driver you will only rip the head off the nut.
HEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAATTTTTTTTTT! After I turn the oring to ash with a propane torch I then go after it and it is easy to get out. DON'T BURN yourself!
On late models (push button) the oring is urethane and will only melt if you torch it. That one you need to pick out with a dental or seal pick. It will normally be goo or crusty but never hard like the early oring.
If you quench the entire blue hot assembly in a Tub of Marvel Mystery Oil it will have a nice oil blued finish and a fresh scent and is ready to be blown off and reassembled. Tranny oil also works good but smells nasty.
I like to use a 24 pitch thread file to clean up the knurling if someone has done the Channel lock treatment on the piercing cap. Once you get everything reassembled, when you are ready to charge the gun make sure it is cocked, bolt open and warmed. That is your best chance of the gun sealing up instantly when pressure is applied.
The seals I use are very hard so it helps to have the seals soft and the pressure high to seal good.
Caps cannot be found so do not thrash one if you don't have the correct tools. Have it professionally done or go to a local small engine, auto or bicycle mechanic type guy who works with hand tools.
Don't call me to buy caps. I have bulk systems only. $120 with two 4 oz hangy tanks.
This is the finest budget CO2 pistol ever made and it is well worth fixing.
Secret Sauce used lightly is all the lube a MKI or II will ever need. A little on the tip of the cartridge when you put it in. Drowning a CO2 gun in oil is dumb as the gun has few moving parts and suffers from excessive lubrication as it can attract contaminants. Rem Oil on the outside and Secret Sauce on the Inside and it'll be happy. Just don't overdo either.
I like to spray the whole gun down with remoil after a dusty session. Blow it off with air and wipe it down thoroughly. If you do this regularly the gun won't ask for much.
Trigger adjustment for MKI & II
Screw in sear forward of the trigger blade is turned clockwise for sweeter trigger. To set trigger cock gun to the high power setting with open bolt. Turn sear adjust screw until the hammer clicks off high power. Back screw out 1/8th turn and make certain the thing is cocking firmly. If the gun won't go to the high power
setting in the first place back off the screw adjust until it does. Then start adjust procedure above.
Power adjustment for MKI & II (all early models and most late LD's have the power adjustment). The screw on the front of the housing below the barrel is the adjustment for power. Clockwise turns power up. If an alternate spring or hammer spacer has been employed you must be certain that the gun will still cock to high power when turning up the power. If you turn in too much it could fail to catch the high power setting. The tension of this spring affects the high and low power performances.
If someone has altered the trigger return spring or the sear engagement spring it could result in the gun only cocking to one power setting or the other. Not enough trigger blade return spring and you lose low power mode. Not enough sear engagement spring and the gun won't cock to high power. This trigger can be set for about 1 lb. without any modification at all. Simply by adjusting and lubing. It is a simple but elegant design and the
finest trigger ever produced on a budget airpistol.
Tim
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Nice Mike! I wish I could find some of those deals that you seem to find lol..
J.Austin
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Mike, only one thing wrong with that Mark II and your TWO Model 600's... One of the three belong in my gun safe!
Brian
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Thanks guys I'm looking for another MKI and some older guns for projects.
Mike
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Between MKI & MKII guns the production numbers are near the 1/2 million mark so they should continue to surface for decades to come.
I expect I've done over 5000 Hot valves and 1000 LD's but i LOST TRACK A VERY LONG TIME AGO.
I've barely hit the 1% threshold which leaves a lot of virgins out there ready to be fondled.
I pay $110 for MKII and $120 for MKI guns when people send me complete examples in good condition. They need to be complete but they do not need to hold CO2. I give a $10 premium if the gun is going to become AG currency for a transaction. MKI's become stock LD's and MKII's become Limited Editions to put the proper cailiber designation on the frame. Original factory markings are removed and Laser Etching replaces it with Mac1 LOgo. Limited Editions are about half gone now with our third and final etching coming up soon. There will only be 100 LE's.
I do not sell stock guns but use the ones I buy to make MKI LD Customs. There is a misconception that I have no guns in house and people need to send me actions to get back LD's but I have over 100 guns in porocess at any given time.
Buy local when it comes to AG's. Your best source is non-internet savvy establishments. It could be a gun store, pawn shop, thrift store, salvation army, goodwill, yard sales, garage sales, estate sales, etc.
If you have the time start stopping & Network. Tell everyone look for Ruger MKI CO2 lookalikes. That is the most descriptive way to find them.
When you get one the first thing you want to do is pull the bolt and send it for a bolt swap from .177 to .22 and get a MKI barrel. It is $15 for both plus shipping $6. The reason is these guns shoot amazingly better in .22. 2 reasons.. The .177 barrels sucked and they got pounded with BB's. The .22 barrels were some of the best Crosman ever did and we have HUNDREDS so we will never get to the bottom of the box because it fills quicker than you could imagine.
Next to steroids the LD is the Most common gun I do now. The number of LD's being turned out exceeds the US FT's five fold.
The MKI platform is the finest budget CO2 Pistol ever made. In my mind the basic gun is genius and LD's barrel design is what made it Genius on Genius & a Mac1 Valve. Gauranteed Satisfaction!
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In 1973 i paid 20 bucks for my MKI that gun still shoots loke new and looks pretty good too it is one one the best guns made by crosman.
Mike