GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => 3D printing and files => Topic started by: miksatx on May 27, 2022, 10:36:53 AM
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Shot a PBA pellet through it that destroyed the dividers in it. Maybe 3D baffles would work?
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Maybe 3D baffles would work?
Sure could. Where is the broken part? Or do you want to replace all of the innards?
If you provide constraining dimensions and need a STL print file, I can generate that for you.
You will need to print it yourself or have it printed: https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=186969.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=186969.0)
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Maybe 3D baffles would work?
Sure could. Where is the broken part? Or do you want to replace all of the innards?
If you provide constraining dimensions and need a STL print file, I can generate that for you.
You will need to print it yourself or have it printed: https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=186969.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=186969.0)
The broken parts long gone. Want to replace with updated designed innards. Don’t have a printer was hoping to find someone to take on the project. I can send it to anyone wanting to try. Not sure how many of these old start up designs still exist today.
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Mike,
The project can be split into two. First, you need to be clear if you want to end up with a working LDC for yourself, or if you are giving it away for someone to rescue for themselves.
It sounds like you want send it out to be refurbished. I am offering to design the innards, for you to have printed by someone offering that service on this forum (or outside). I would need the ID of the outer tube and the length between closed end-caps. You can measure that and let me know. I do not need the casing, to do for you what you can do for yourself.
Further details are; what caliber, what power level, and what platform (to determine if it has a functional shroud and air stripper. If not, that should be taken into account).
The printing service is probably not going to be free, although I won't charge anything for the design. I PMd you the link to that Avenger thread, because it will either indicate design competence or incompetence. It is a long thread. You might look at pictures and read only the posts with test results.
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I will print for him if he wants to fix this.
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Excellent, Matt.
All I need from Mike is a few caliper measurements and caliber declaration. His intended use would help (shrouded or not).
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I will print for him if he wants to fix this.
Hi Matt hey thanks for taking this on. Pix of my frankenguns top gun my longest running project lol.
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I will print for him if he wants to fix this.
Hi Matt hey thanks for taking this on. Pix of my frankenguns top gun my longest running project lol.
I will get to it after you get everything subscriber needs and he sends me the files.
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Thanks Matt,
Mike PMd me the details.
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Mike,
Please take a look at the design images below. If you approve, then please give Matt the go ahead to print the design.
The STL print file is attached to this post. It is the top attachment, above the images.
The central bore as designed is (a typical for .25 caliber) 8 mm or .315" in diameter; end to end. Except the "breech end" hole, at .90". I assume the rear endcap would just press against the stack, and that there is no reason to make the rear baffle stack hole smaller. This way, the air expansion volume ahead of the first baffle cone is controlled, with deliberate space for the air to go.
The baffle stack diameter is a nominal 0.004" smaller in diameter than the casing ID. This is to allow for the print being slightly oversize, and clearance to go in. It may turn out that the OD needs to be reduced a bit more, although feedback from Matt about OD printed accuracy would be useful here.
The length is 0.015" longer than the closed casing to enable some clamping force between the endcaps.
To avoid "floating overhangs", the part should be printed with the muzzle end resting on the printer platen; although I am sure Matt can see that from the slanted features in the design.
For your amusement, this fun exercise took 2 hours 20 minutes.
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In case there are concerns with potential clipping, I created a version of the above design with stepped bore diameters:
The bore in the first baffle is the same as the above LDC version. Each subsequent baffle bore is .004" larger in diameter. These step values seemed reasonable to me, then I checked the included "cone" angle from end to end. It is real close to an included angle of 0.2 degrees. See image below.
STL file attched below.
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Thanks subscriber that looks very well done.
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Mike,
Please take a look at the design images below. If you approve, then please give Matt the go ahead to print the design.
The STL print file is attached to this post. It is the top attachment, above the images.
The central bore as designed is (a typical for .25 caliber) 8 mm or .315" in diameter; end to end. Except the "breech end" hole, at .90". I assume the rear endcap would just press against the stack, and that there is no reason to make the rear baffle stack hole smaller. This way, the air expansion volume ahead of the first baffle cone is controlled, with deliberate space for the air to go.
The baffle stack diameter is a nominal 0.004" smaller in diameter than the casing ID. This is to allow for the print being slightly oversize, and clearance to go in. It may turn out that the OD needs to be reduced a bit more, although feedback from Matt about OD printed accuracy would be useful here.
The length is 0.015" longer than the closed casing to enable some clamping force between the endcaps.
To avoid "floating overhangs", the part should be printed with the muzzle end resting on the printer platen; although I am sure Matt can see that from the slanted features in the design.
For your amusement, this fun exercise took 2 hours 20 minutes.
Looks great subscriber, I approve fantastic work.
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Thanks Mike.
You will need to coordinate with Matt which version he is printing for you; shipping address and so on.
Post to this thread once you have tried it out; whether it meets your expectations, or not. Or PM me.
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Thanks Mike.
You will need to coordinate with Matt which version he is printing for you; shipping address and so on.
Post to this thread once you have tried it out; whether it meets your expectations, or not. Or PM me.
Will do.
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I have some fresh PETG coming in. I'll do some test prints as its been awhile since I had my printer printing. I will be sending both versions for him to test out. For my prefers setting for both it will take over 17 hours take 152g of filament which is like 46 meters. For you nonmetric minded folks about 5oz and 150 feet.
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Thanks Matt
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Thanks Matt
If you are interested in a set for yourself let me know.
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Thanks Matt, but I don't have a "can" to put these into. From my perspective, the exercise is to help a GTA member, by extending what I learned from my Avenger LDC designs.
The outer wall of this design is pretty thin, because the intent is to place it in a stiff outer tube. If someone wanted to adapt the design to serve as its own cannister, I would strongly recommend increasing the outer wall thickness. Especially if more power was involved than Mike's rather gentle application.
Someone else reading this thread may want a DFL Gen1 version in .22 or .177. If they speak up soon, I am willing to adapt the design and attach it to this thread. Where they print it would be a separate question.
All of my designs can be printed without supports turned on; as removing supports from a closed structure is impossible. Sometimes I incorporate permanent supports in a design, but my preference is to make do without them. This means that the part can only be printed in one orientation. At least to produce a symmetrical part.
As an aside, what is the longest part you can print, standing up from the platen?
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I see, as I may have implied or assumed I did some looking about and yes there would be only one way to print this. There would be much more to configure to make it standalone if someone didn't fully understand the base design. My ender 3 claims 250mm but I have some mods so I would say realistically 140mm.
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Thanks, Matt
140 mm is just tall enough to print Mike's bits.
I am working on a reflex LDC design for an FX Impact that uses their CF sleeved barrel (no shroud). It does not use an outer tube, and is 250 mm long. May have to split it into two parts that thread together. Or the number of printers that can handle it may be limited...
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Thanks, Matt
140 mm is just tall enough to print Mike's bits.
I am working on a reflex LDC design for an FX Impact that uses their CF sleeved barrel (no shroud). It does not use an outer tube, and is 250 mm long. May have to split it into two parts that thread together. Or the number of printers that can handle it may be limited...
Im sorry I its 240mm some times my brain tells my fingers what to do then they say ya eff you.
I know of one member who has a ender3 with a extended height kit. I think he is at 300mm+?
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It is having heard of the Ender 250 mm kit that gave me the audacity to design something that long. I could take 10 mm out of the design of I had to.
I have a rather weird plan: To contact people using the Impact M3 with the sleeved barrel, and ask them if they would test my design/s. Many would consider that presumptuous. Some might be curious enough to try it...
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Im not sure I am being clear a standard ender is 250mm a extended kit is 300mm+.
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Im not sure I am being clear a standard ender is 250mm a extended kit is 300mm+.
I usually try to avoid misunderstandings. In this case, I am glad to be mistaken. My goal is just that printers capable of making 250 mm tall parts are common. I am happy to be wrong about the other detail, unless I were shopping for a printer.
When they say "250 mm", can you actually make good parts to that length, or is it 248 mm? Perhaps this height includes any print raft, which would make sense. What consumers want to know is max good part height.
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I have not tried full height print myself I added a glass bed which is 5mm the provided soft bed was like 2mm. I also added stiffer bed springs so that added some height to the true Z home to the point I had to raise the Z height limit switch after adding both.
From what I have seen it is easy to get a filament base printer with a 200x 200y 250z as a standard print volume. Well unless you get into resin based printers and well they very.
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After a series of what is wrong with my printer now. I printed out the first one took 10 hours second one is going now. Subscriber the end product is perfect looking too hard to get a good picture on the innards so that is what it is.
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Excellent, Matt. Thanks for doing this.
Could you measure the OD in a few places along the length and around the circumference, please. If it is under 1.328" then Mike should not have any difficulty getting the print into his tube. If it is over that, it may take a bit of careful sanding to get it to fit. Using a hammer or press to force it in is, shall we say contraindicated... :)
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When I find my calipers I will Im sure they are around here somewhere.
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Ok Matt printed 2 both fit perfect and work fantastic. Thanks to both you members for the help. Just put a shot over the sound meter. Nice to have the old frankengun back in action.
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Glad to hear.
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Thanks for the feedback, Mike
The prints Matt did look amazingly crisp and even. Almost like a solid plastic extrusion. I wonder what readings it would produce in a tensile testing machine. It looks strong.
I am glad to hear that the sound reduction is to your liking. What was the reading with the LDC removed? Where was the meter relative to the muzzle when you captured that reading?
You have no idea how much of a kick I get designing stuff, when it works as intended. Somehow, I am more motivated to design stuff for others than for myself. Very glad to help.
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You would see the layers in person and that is expected.
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I can see the layers in the images when viewing at full size. My point is that your printer is stacking the layers very evenly. Meaning, your printer, material, setup and skill are top notch.
What layer height are you using?
I have just recommended you to another forum member for a front sight he wants printed.
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I print at .2mm per layer.
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Thanks, Matt
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What it was before. It may not add up to much but I can hear the change.
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What it was before. It may not add up to much but I can hear the change.
Actually, 13.8 dB less, starting from 111.4 is significant.
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Thought the ends print designs look pretty cool.
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Interesting pattern, Mike.
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Part of it is the print head path the other is the texture of the print bead.