GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Projectiles => Boolit and Pellet Casting => Topic started by: Madd Hatter on February 01, 2022, 11:31:26 AM
-
Just ordered one yesterday. I like the varmint knockers that are cast from these molds so we'll see how the ones I cast do. I've never cast using a 8 cavity mold before so this will be a challenge. I bought this for my Sumatra as it's turning out to be my best air rifle.
I should say my daughter ordered it for me as the pita company won't have any thing to do with PO box addresses and that's all the mail service we get here in Ash Fork. No home delivery.😡
-
8 cavity might be heavy in the hand. I have a 4 cavity steel mold and regret being greedy by wanting the extra 2 rounds per pour, gets tiring faster than my 2 cavity aluminum molds.
-
If it's aluminum it'll probably be great for casting, much easier on the wrist than a brass one. I've seen very positive results with those varmint knockers also.
-
I have it in aluminum. It sure piles up the bullets quickly and the weight of the mold is okay.
-
I've always hand cast using the pressure pour method, once you get a good aluminum mold seasoned right they'll really surprise you. The 25 cal NOE mold I have for my AEA semi auto 25 cal which cast's 34.5 grain pellets is made from brass and after a while it can really wear on your wrist however usually by the time that happens I've already gone through a pound of lead.
-
It does not look like you had a choice other than an eight cavity. From my casting experience this would not be my preferred choice. Being so long you may have to angle the entry to be able to fill all cavities depending on what method or pot you are using. If using a Lee Pro 4-20 pot, there might be an issue with having enough distance from the spout to the pot to be able to fill all cavities going straight in but again angling it in might work.
The other thing you may run into is having a larger spread in weights between each cavity as an aluminum mold that long will have different temps going on between each end cavities. You can alter the pour direction between ends to help even out the mold temp. I would recommend a guide plate to help with fatigue as one that long/large can become tiring with extended use.
The good news is that you do not have to fill all eight cavities and can just use a few if you want to. Also, it is not a HP mold so that will make casting with it much easier.
I would like it if you would come back after settling down with it and post some experiences, cast, and realistic groups to give others an idea of what to expect from this mold.
-
I need to make a better guide plate for my 4 20 pot, they come with one but it isn't very good. I think it was user Scion that showed a mod he did to his pot and it looked good.
-
I need to make a better guide plate for my 4 20 pot, they come with one but it isn't very good. I think it was user Scion that showed a mod he did to his pot and it looked good.
I am using the guide NOE offers for the 4-20 pot. It helps a lot with fatigue, keeping the mold level and keeping the spout distance the same. All of which helps with consistency. I use a little piece of tin on top of the guide plate to help the mold slide back and forth easily. It is a lot better than going freehand but does take a while to get setup just right before the mold is heated up.
-
I've got a 10 lb regular pot. I use the Wayne pressure pore method. I've just never cast using a 8 cavity mold so it will be a learning experience for sure.😳😄
-
I didn't know they had them in stock recently.
-
I've got a 10 lb regular pot. I use the Wayne pressure pore method. I've just never cast using a 8 cavity mold so it will be a learning experience for sure.
Well, you won't have any spout issues like I mentioned then. I have used Wayne's method before. I ordered a ladle just for that method of casting. I have also pressure poured directly from the 4-20 spout. These different methods of casting certainly do keep casting interesting.
-
I have a 4-20 pot and cast my .22 cal slugs from the MP mould, no problem. I keep the mould on a hot plate so uneven temperature is not an issue. The mould gets heavy during an extended casting period, however, lead levels in the pot go down pretty fast so taking a break while more lead is added to the pot provides the rest periods. I've cast 200 - 300 slugs in a one hour session.
-
I have this mold as well. Casting them from salvaged lead, which I believe is pure drops them @ 47.3-47.7gr. My Compact Impact MKII @ 636fps 42fpe is a ragged hole @ 25 yards. So far so good.
-
I prefer the eight cavity mold to any of my molds of fewer cavities and is the first mold I ever cast with and had zero problems. Because it’s aluminum it doesn’t weigh much at all And It just flows better during the process since not quite so much repetitive motion is required.
Perhaps if you build up muscle memory around 4 cavity molds it might be hard to adapt I don’t know.
-
Anyone know the B.C. of these? Even at MIN on the FX 450fps they're 1 ragged hole.
-
i have the .22 cal variant of the mp mold. it runs fine under my 4-20 pot with no issues at all
-
Got my mold today. Already changed out the HP pin for the flat nose pin. Probably won't be able to do any casting until Saturday. I've got a brand new hot plate to try out also along with a new MP .25 mold. Been to busy to do anything with my new stuff.
-
Anyone know the B.C. of these? Even at MIN on the FX 450fps they're 1 ragged hole.
Gregor said the.25 slugs are around.250 when I asked him on his utube chanel.