GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: Spooner on January 21, 2022, 12:06:43 PM
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A little bit of discussion has taken place regarding whether or not it will work? It does indeed, and it works extremely well. There was no modding of any kind needed to fit it to either the pump tube, or the stock. You have to spend about 15 minutes doing something very simple though. For me... I took it to work and had a friend in our Tool Room do it. ;)
Side by side, the length and width are the same. The bolt pattern to mount it is the same. Except for the way it is made on the front end, This trigger group matches the dimensions needed to use it.
(https://i.imgur.com/rMA9Ip9.jpg)
The 15 minutes needed to modify it to work...
(https://i.imgur.com/lWSEHRS.jpg)
Install it to the pump tube and push on the stock to the position it needs to be. Press and hold the stock firmly just as it would be bolted on. I used a pencil lead to trace around the mounting hole of the stock onto the trigger group. Remove the stock. Take the trigger group back off, tap and drill a 1/4-20 hole all the way through. THAT IS IT! ;D
Here it is installed...
(https://i.imgur.com/4yxdO5r.jpg)
Those of you who have used this trigger group on a Disco already know how extremely well this trigger group is made. The tolerances are fantastic and virtually no slop of any kind. IT IS NICE!!!
It is a bit on the pricey side, and you can get it in either aluminum, or a little more for one in brass. For me... It was worth it to have this kind of precision. Those of you who are looking at this as an option will have to decide for yourselves. ;)
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Look good!!
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It looks really nice with the black stock. Also, it is two stage, I think? Never had one before but you pull back a little and it clicks. One more tiny squeeze and off it goes. I really like that very much! 8)
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it's a bit steep for me, but I may get one some day. For the price I would prefer that the c362 hole would already be there, but I do understand how new this gun is to the market.
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it's a bit steep for me, but I may get one some day. For the price I would prefer that the c362 hole would already be there, but I do understand how new this gun is to the market.
I explained to him what I bought it for when I asked him in email whether or not he pre-lubed the assembly, which he did. Maybe he will add it in at some point, in the interest is there for it with this gun? Either way... it is a very simple thing to do ;). Yes, it is a bit of a sticker shock for sure, but it is flawless in every way. ;D
Now that Avatar has shown us the "trigger only" from MAP... that would be the way to go and would be way more affordable. 8)
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it's a bit steep for me, but I may get one some day. For the price I would prefer that the c362 hole would already be there, but I do understand how new this gun is to the market.
I explained to him what I bought it for when I asked him in email whether or not he pre-lubed the assembly, which he did. Maybe he will add it in at some point, in the interest is there for it with this gun? Either way... it is a very simple thing to do ;). Yes, it is a bit of a sticker shock for sure, but it is flawless in every way. ;D
Now that Avatar has shown us the "trigger only" from MAP... that would be the way to go and would be way more affordable. 8)
Mr. B handpicked mine.
Had it Cerakoted in silver, but I am thinking of having it plated in nickel boron like some of my rimfire and AG parts 'cuz it makes everything so smooth and good-looking.
Oh, a while back, he was selling the casing only for about $75.
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Mr. B handpicked mine.
Had it Cerakoted in silver, but I am thinking of having it plated in nickel boron like some of my rimfire and AG parts 'cuz it makes everything so smooth and good-looking.
Oh, a while back, he was selling the casing only for about $75.
He has some really nice offerings... I will be spending more time in his online store. ;)
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Mr. B handpicked mine.
Had it Cerakoted in silver, but I am thinking of having it plated in nickel boron like some of my rimfire and AG parts 'cuz it makes everything so smooth and good-looking.
Oh, a while back, he was selling the casing only for about $75.
He has some really nice offerings... I will be spending more time in his online store. ;)
You can make a request of getting handpicked parts, you know.
The Disco steel breech I bought from him was excellent and so clean ;D
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Mr. B handpicked mine.
Had it Cerakoted in silver, but I am thinking of having it plated in nickel boron like some of my rimfire and AG parts 'cuz it makes everything so smooth and good-looking.
Oh, a while back, he was selling the casing only for about $75.
He has some really nice offerings... I will be spending more time in his online store. ;)
You can make a request of getting handpicked parts, you know.
The Disco steel breech I bought from him was excellent and so clean ;D
Thanks Rick... I know now. 8)
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Mr. B handpicked mine.
Had it Cerakoted in silver, but I am thinking of having it plated in nickel boron like some of my rimfire and AG parts 'cuz it makes everything so smooth and good-looking.
Oh, a while back, he was selling the casing only for about $75.
He has some really nice offerings... I will be spending more time in his online store. ;)
You can make a request of getting handpicked parts, you know.
The Disco steel breech I bought from him was excellent and so clean ;D
Thanks Rick... I know now. 8)
BTW, the MAP trigger blade that was supplied on mine was the stainless steel version (dunno if he still has them) and not the 7075 series aluminum.
For more comfort, you can put O-rings on your trigger blade:
(https://i.imgur.com/wbharbz.jpg?2)
Forgot the size but I bought them from HF:
https://www.harborfreight.com/hardware/o-rings-grommets/225-piece-nitrile-o-ring-assortment-67677.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/hardware/o-rings-grommets/225-piece-nitrile-o-ring-assortment-67677.html)
https://www.harborfreight.com/hardware/o-rings-grommets/225-piece-metric-nitrile-o-ring-assortment-67609.html (https://www.harborfreight.com/hardware/o-rings-grommets/225-piece-metric-nitrile-o-ring-assortment-67609.html)
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Thanks Rick 8).
I just checked his description, and the trigger is aluminum. I also know now that this is a single stage trigger. Not sure what the "click" is just before the release point, but I like it. It gives me the point just before it fires. ;)
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I took your advice Rick ;). I took the stock off and found that the lower adjustment screw was backed out by a lot. It probably happened when the front frame was drilled and tapped, and I didn't pay attention to it when I installed it on the rifle. I located it back to where I need it then loctited it. The click is from engagement between the sear and hammer release. Bill said he never had one do that, but it shouldn't. Adjusting it cleared that mostly up. It just needs to break in a little. ;)
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Old thread, but I just got one of if not the last one of these, emailed him about just the trigger and he said nope, they are gone and no longer made, had a few of the full assemblies left and no longer being made, when they gone they are Gone, he had made me a deal on one from ebay and I took it, kinda hate spending that much on a cheap gun, BUT when it's all said and done it will be a real nice and custom..
Still liking yours ?
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I get by with some pretty terrible triggers on my guns. I guess I ain't as picky as some of y'all. I think the trigger on my 362 is pretty darn good! The trigger on my 3622 is also pretty sweet (by my standards ). Y'all should try any French or Russian MilSurp to experience a truly terrible trigger (or any Ruger air rifle).
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I get by with some pretty terrible triggers on my guns. I guess I ain't as picky as some of y'all. I think the trigger on my 362 is pretty darn good! The trigger on my 3622 is also pretty sweet (by my standards ). Y'all should try any French or Russian MilSurp to experience a truly terrible trigger (or any Ruger air rifle).
I had an old Mosin Nagant, it actually had a nice trigger, long pull, but soft and smooth.. oh wait.. that's because it was wore out lol
I know the 362 may not be worth it, heck I may have been happy with a worked over factory unit, but why not, I've got everything I need but my health hahaha enjoy life while you can.
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I get by with some pretty terrible triggers on my guns. I guess I ain't as picky as some of y'all. I think the trigger on my 362 is pretty darn good! The trigger on my 3622 is also pretty sweet (by my standards ). Y'all should try any French or Russian MilSurp to experience a truly terrible trigger (or any Ruger air rifle).
I had an old Mosin Nagant, it actually had a nice trigger, long pull, but soft and smooth.. oh wait.. that's because it was wore out lol
I know the 362 may not be worth it, heck I may have been happy with a worked over factory unit, but why not, I've got everything I need but my health hahaha enjoy life while you can.
That’s the spirit! Carpe diem! One day I’m going to build a custom .270 on a Mauser action I have. Hang the expense! I’m gonna do it the way I want it! :D
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I got just the aluminum trigger housing when he had them listed separately last year on sale for about $35 along with the custom sear he sells. It works great with a Baker Brass Trigger, two screw mod and parts from the regular Disco trigger pack that I had already. I never would have bought the full trigger package though. I guess with the Disco guns no longer sold he is not going to keep having these made. I wish I had bought 2 more of the aluminum housings for my other 2 Disco tube builds back then. I really like them. I did get 2 of his completely custom-built power Disco valves a couple of years ago. They really make a .25cal Disco turn up the FPS.
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Well he said even if the guns was still being made he can't keep the cost ratio worth it, and now sales are way down, so he made the choice to drop them, I was holding out for just the trigger, but after the conversation I decided to go ahead and do it.
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Well he said even if the guns was still being made he can't keep the cost ratio worth it, and now sales are way down, so he made the choice to drop them, I was holding out for just the trigger, but after the conversation I decided to go ahead and do it.
The Gen 1 MROD trigger group is also a good option and much cheaper——-well, about half the price to be exact. I have both but prefer the MAP’s hair trigger sensitivity. It also looks elegant unlike the MROD’s somewhat gangly appearance ???
The GEN 1 MROD TG attaches to the 3622 w/o mods or spacers despite the substantial difference in radii, so I don’t see any reason why it won’t on a 362.
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That's a shame that he is not making them anymore, but understandable considering the cost. I cannibalized some parts out mine to rework the original 362 trigger but glad I got those parts bought and replaced in the trigger for my 367. Yes, a pricey trigger group to be sure, but glad it found a home on my 367 build. It is a VERY sweet trigger! I added the sear adjustment screw in front of the trigger guard and made it even sweeter. 8)
I did not use his custom wider sear though. It was hanging up a little, so I replaced it with a deburred and polished 13xx sear and shimmed it with shim washers for slop. It solved the issue. ;)
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Well he said even if the guns was still being made he can't keep the cost ratio worth it, and now sales are way down, so he made the choice to drop them, I was holding out for just the trigger, but after the conversation I decided to go ahead and do it.
The Gen 1 MROD trigger group is also a good option and much cheaper——-well, about half the price to be exact. I have both but prefer the MAP’s hair trigger sensitivity. It also looks elegant unlike the MROD’s somewhat gangly appearance ???
The GEN 1 MROD TG attaches to the 3622 w/o mods or spacers despite the substantial difference in radii, so I don’t see any reason why it won’t on a 362.
Ya know Rick... I really enjoy looking at your builds. They are so elegant! ;D
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That's a shame that he is not making them anymore, but understandable considering the cost. I cannibalized some parts out mine to rework the original 362 trigger but glad I got those parts bought and replaced in the trigger for my 367. Yes, a pricey trigger group to be sure, but glad it found a home on my 367 build. It is a VERY sweet trigger!
It was because of that build thread I looked it up in the first place.. so it's your fault I got one. Haha
I got to drill the one hole to mount the stock correct ?
Sear adjustment screw I've not looked into as to why it needs it, doesn't it already have pre and over travel adjustment ?
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That's a shame that he is not making them anymore, but understandable considering the cost. I cannibalized some parts out mine to rework the original 362 trigger but glad I got those parts bought and replaced in the trigger for my 367. Yes, a pricey trigger group to be sure, but glad it found a home on my 367 build. It is a VERY sweet trigger!
It was because of that build thread I looked it up in the first place.. so it's your fault I got one. Haha
I got to drill the one hole to mount the stock correct ?
Sear adjustment screw I've not looked into as to why it needs it, doesn't it already have pre and over travel adjustment ?
lol Mike... Glad I could be of service ;) ;D.
Yes, you will need to locate the front mounting hole then drill and tap it. I do not remember what size the bolt and threads are but I located the hole by lining up the front end of the stock trigger pack side by side with the Magnum.
The sear adjustment screw is purely preference only. You can get an excellent trigger with what is already there. I wanted a very "hair touch trigger" and being able to adjust the sear in tandem with the other two gave me that. The rifles weight with that big scope, and the 24" barrel is very balanced, but having the trigger the way I have it lets me make the shot with no accidental jerking. Purely my preference. 8)
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You had said it was a 1/4x20 thread in that thread.
I like a good trigger, and sorta light.. #2 is my favorite, tho the one 22lr I have is 1.5#
I don't like anything under 1.5# for me anyways, I like to need to be able to compress the pad of the finger, I felt one a guy had so light I almost couldn't even feel I was touching the trigger before it went off. Not for me.
I've never had a problem pulling or jerking off target, smooth pull is my thing, do snap at times when needed hunting, but I already had my finger on the trigger to start with, I Never slap it, but then again I've never been a real target shooter either.
Only trigger I couldn't get good was a 10-22 and it be safe, sent it off to Brimstone Tactical and seeing what they did I know now how to fix the problem I had, with the safety on, if you pulled the trigger and stop, when the safety was set to fire it would go off. That's a no no.. but they heat up and hammer part of it to pinch out some metal to catch the safety better.
I've done even a H&R break action triggers myself, only gun I've not messed with is my Beretta 1201fp 12ga auto, but it has an industrial chrome finish on it, and it's like 8#, but that's ok for what it's for.
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You had said it was a 1/4x20 thread in that thread.
I like a good trigger, and sorta light.. #2 is my favorite, tho the one 22lr I have is 1.5#
I don't like anything under 1.5# for me anyways, I like to need to be able to compress the pad of the finger, I felt one a guy had so light I almost couldn't even feel I was touching the trigger before it went off. Not for me.
I've never had a problem pulling or jerking off target, smooth pull is my thing, do snap at times when needed hunting, but I already had my finger on the trigger to start with, I Never slap it, but then again I've never been a real target shooter either.
Only trigger I couldn't get good was a 10-22 and it be safe, sent it off to Brimstone Tactical and seeing what they did I know now how to fix the problem I had, with the safety on, if you pulled the trigger and stop, when the safety was set to fire it would go off. That's a no no.. but they heat up and hammer part of it to pinch out some metal to catch the safety better.
I've done even a H&R break action triggers myself, only gun I've not messed with is my Beretta 1201fp 12ga auto, but it has an industrial chrome finish on it, and it's like 8#, but that's ok for what it's for.
It's been a while since I have seen this thread. If that is the size I listed, it is correct ;).
You would not like my trigger. It is very much like you described. It is not for everyone but great for me. It passes the safety and the bump test so I am comfortable and confident with it.
I have a 10-22 passed down to me by my father. Other than changing the scope rail to a picatinny... it will never be modified. It is very old and will go to my son when I am gone.
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That's a shame that he is not making them anymore, but understandable considering the cost. I cannibalized some parts out mine to rework the original 362 trigger but glad I got those parts bought and replaced in the trigger for my 367. Yes, a pricey trigger group to be sure, but glad it found a home on my 367 build. It is a VERY sweet trigger! I added the sear adjustment screw in front of the trigger guard and made it even sweeter. 8)
I did not use his custom wider sear though. It was hanging up a little, so I replaced it with a deburred and polished 13xx sear and shimmed it with shim washers for slop. It solved the issue. ;)
Lol on the builds and gracias 👍
That MAP Super Sear doesn’t work well with Don Cothran’s Roller Trigger (DCRT) either but is a superb match with the Blue Fork ???
DCRT + Steve’s Super Sear (now extinct) = muy bien 👍
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Although the MAP Disco TG comes pre-adjusted by the seller, it is pretty easy to fine tune it to suit your preferred trigger pull weight.
Sans stock, I played with the 2 tiny set screws to create a hair trigger that passed the bump test with flying colors.
After that, I removed the hammer spring to see if it would pass the sear drag test—-you know, angle it downwards and let the hammer free flight when the trigger is pulled. I pull it lightly and pull it hard to see if there is any difference.
I’ve had sear drag on some of my builds that is why I always check for sear and hammer engagement.
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I'll polish everything, but still may do the trick of grinding a 90* shelf so it's a cleaner break. Wonder how that would effect trigger pull ?
The 22lr Remington 510 has the same design and not much else could be done with that one, and no aftermarket parts to improve it, that's why I ended up getting rid of it in favor of the Ruger American Rimfire, Timney makes one for that one but I was able to get it to my liking with a ballpoint pen spring and stone work.
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Surprised no one has come up with a better hammer and sear for the Crosman. I only see aftermarket sears but no hammer with a different angle on the engagement point.
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I'll polish everything, but still may do the trick of grinding a 90* shelf so it's a cleaner break. Wonder how that would effect trigger pull ?
The 22lr Remington 510 has the same design and not much else could be done with that one, and no aftermarket parts to improve it, that's why I ended up getting rid of it in favor of the Ruger American Rimfire, Timney makes one for that one but I was able to get it to my liking with a ballpoint pen spring and stone work.
Before playing with it, I did polish the contact points, and deburred/polished the spring and the link/“lower sear” as they are the only OEM parts in the
MAP TG…Oh, there’s the safety button as well ::)
It’s a very well-built TG 👍
Lastly, I did apply Blue Loctite on the 2 mini set screws after determining their ideal depth.
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You had said it was a 1/4x20 thread in that thread.
I like a good trigger, and sorta light.. #2 is my favorite, tho the one 22lr I have is 1.5#
I don't like anything under 1.5# for me anyways, I like to need to be able to compress the pad of the finger, I felt one a guy had so light I almost couldn't even feel I was touching the trigger before it went off. Not for me.
I've never had a problem pulling or jerking off target, smooth pull is my thing, do snap at times when needed hunting, but I already had my finger on the trigger to start with, I Never slap it, but then again I've never been a real target shooter either.
Only trigger I couldn't get good was a 10-22 and it be safe, sent it off to Brimstone Tactical and seeing what they did I know now how to fix the problem I had, with the safety on, if you pulled the trigger and stop, when the safety was set to fire it would go off. That's a no no.. but they heat up and hammer part of it to pinch out some metal to catch the safety better.
I've done even a H&R break action triggers myself, only gun I've not messed with is my Beretta 1201fp 12ga auto, but it has an industrial chrome finish on it, and it's like 8#, but that's ok for what it's for.
You’d most probably like the GEN 1 MROD TG..It’s a very predictable 2-stage trigger..I used mine w/o ever polishing or adjusting anything and was pleasantly surprised by its behavior :-*
I have no idea if Crosman would continue to produce them, reason why I decided to get at least one 👍
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I'm not real big In getting up much of any collection like alot of you guys here, I most likely stick with just the 362, if anything get a 1322 to have a matching pistol, I'll end up selling/trading my 2240 carbine for a 1322.
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I'm not real big In getting up much of any collection like alot of you guys here, I most likely stick with just the 362, if anything get a 1322 to have a matching pistol, I'll end up selling/trading my 2240 carbine for a 1322.
I have less than 10 (here in the US) and I already find it overwhelming and too much a number :P
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Yeah after so many it's a COLLECTION..
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Speaking of 13xx builds, Wyoman is the Man 👍
I really like the forearm design on this one; a laminate rendition of the Fatty that is no more.
I still have 2 Fatties in the Philippines…So very comfortable to use 🍻
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The above was made by Bella Grips.
They were about $65/set when they came out, and when I decided to get a set they were no more.
That company/maker was very short-lived :P
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I had an issue with mine from the get go, after a bit of shooting it started to hang up, took it off and it had flattened the sear edge, contacted him about it with pics and he blamed me for beating on it, I told him no sir, just seems the metal is soft, he went on to tell me it's as hard as the Crosman hammer and he has thousands sold with no problems, especially with that much damage. I bit my tongue and said I can't file on the hammer but can shave off metal from the sear, but maybe I did something wrong as my hammer pin was also beat up pretty bad. Not sure what's going on but I do know it's solf SS.. I ordered another sear, but will trace it out onto some high carbon steel so I can heat treat it.
Hate spending $150 for this and get these results.
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I get the new sear in I'll trace it out over a piece of 1095 carbon steel, get it working and smoothed, then heat treat it , repolish it and should never have a problem with it, this 410 SS is just too soft.
If anyone else wants one let me know, 1/8 thick ground flat to the same thickness as the MAP unit.
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Seems I'm not the only one.
https://www.reddit.com/r/airguns/comments/11cxgv3/crosman_1377_trigger_sear_rolling_over/
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Did you check if your rear top breech 8-32 screw tip is touching the hammer spring?
That and an overtightened trigger assembly side plate create sear drag….There’s also the hammer pin tube rail —-deburr it….Ah, and an improper breech positioning could also cause binding of the hammer pin.
You have a MAP TG, so the side plate culprit can be discounted.
Your tube is smaller than a 22xx’s, and I believe Bill B/MAP sets up his TG based on the aforesaid’s specs; I’d check out the set screw settings.
Dunno if what I’m saying has anything to do with that sear deformation, but I own 2 or 3 of those sears and they seem very hard, although I haven’t really attempted to do a file test on them.
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I was able to shave off metal with a knife.. I bought a replacement and he is sending it and an extra, I'll see if they are harder, I'm also going to play around with an old file and some 1095 carbon steel to see how hard they are and if either would be good to make one from. Got a polished factory one in it now and after 20 shots it's just polished even better..
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I was able to shave off metal with a knife.. I bought a replacement and he is sending it and an extra, I'll see if they are harder, I'm also going to play around with an old file and some 1095 carbon steel to see how hard they are and if either would be good to make one from. Got a polished factory one in it now and after 20 shots it's just polished even better..
Looking at the pictures, that is too obvious for Bill to have not seen that when he installed it in the TG. He is too particular with his work with what he charges for it to send it to a customer like that.
It could be any of the reasons Rick mentioned. To me, with the direction the deformation was occurring in, it looks like the hammer was releasing faster than the sear was disengaging it.
Mine was hanging up a little but it didn't do what yours did. I didn't leave it in beyond initial testing though, and it may have looked like yours if I had left it in. I personally didn't like the wider sear in his trigger group. I had a nice polished one which I ramped down from a 13xx and added a couple thin shim washers from McMaster-Carr to each side. Smooth as silk with a nice clean release.
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He didn't send it damaged, if that's what you mean, but at least this one is really soft, he doesn't heat treat them but claims they are hard..
If the replacements are as soft as this one I will see if I can find someone who have harden them if it's worth it $$$.
Maybe I can get the 1095 to harden up, that and I'll try an old small file and make one..
All in all this trigger group is very nice, going to take it back out and scotch brite it..
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He didn't send it damaged, if that's what you mean, but at least this one is really soft, he doesn't heat treat them but claims they are hard..
If the replacements are as soft as this one I will see if I can find someone who have harden them if it's worth it $$$.
Maybe I can get the 1095 to harden up, that and I'll try an old small file and make one..
All in all this trigger group is very nice, going to take it back out and scotch brite it..
I thought mine was on the soft side as well.
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Was able to change some contact points to have better adjustments " left the contact point for the transfer bar heavy" so no set screw in front of the trigger guard needed.
It hardened up real nice also.
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That DIY heat treat job looks really good Mike! 8)
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Thank you sir.