GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Hatsan Airguns => Topic started by: Mixonja on January 11, 2022, 07:53:31 PM
-
Soo today i noticed my scope is sliding, im using vortex crossfire 3-9x40 with nikko stirling 11mm mounts mounted on hatsan edge, anyone know what to do ??
-
Soo today i noticed my scope is sliding, im using vortex crossfire 3-9x40 with nikko stirling 11mm mounts mounted on hatsan edge, anyone know what to do ??
Look into a one piece mount preferably a BkL they’re solid
-
Clean all the threads and grooves with alcohol. Tighten to torque recommended specs.
BLK's are robust.
-Y
-
There is a like tape or sometin on mounts up and bottom where scope goes should i remove them or ?, and can i hand tighten them cuse dont have torque wrench
-
First, sliding how? Scope is sliding inside the rings or rings are sliding on the rifle??
The tape you see on the inside of the rings is friction take and many companies use it to help keep scopes from sliding inside
the rings. Yes, you can hand tighten, just be careful how much you do as you can crush the scope tube.
-
scope sliding inside the rings, now i dont know if its sliding or did i damage it when i was mounting it, i saw some scraches on sides, but will shot few more pellets and see if it moves, and i tighten them with thumb and 2 fingers with hex key till i cant no more, now is it over tighten idk.
-
Sounds like the way I mount mine and I've never crushed a tube in 45+ scopes.
-
3rd time trying to post this. Soo i went out trying to zero in my scope with new pellets and i noticed my scope is moving inside rings and mounts moving on rail, already cleaned it with alcohol still moving, any suggestions, should i like remove that tape and try it without it or should i like put electric tape, or should i put alcohol and mount it right away without letting it dry. Vortex support told me to try removing that tape cuse there shouldnt be anything between mount and scope... Currently using vortex crossfire mounted on nikko stirling high mounts 11mm
-
3rd time trying to post this. Soo i went out trying to zero in my scope with new pellets and i noticed my scope is moving inside rings and mounts moving on rail, already cleaned it with alcohol still moving, any suggestions, should i like remove that tape and try it without it or should i like put electric tape, or should i put alcohol and mount it right away without letting it dry. Vortex support told me to try removing that tape cuse there shouldnt be anything between mount and scope... Currently using vortex crossfire mounted on nikko stirling high mounts 11mm
Think about getting a torque wrench. They make pretty cheap ones for bicycles. ;)
-Y
PS That tape is supposed to prevent slipping. Electrical tape might slip.
-
Can't hurt to take that tape off the Nikko mounts since not a clue what they use. If you still want tape, 3M makes what they call friction tape that works quite well.
2nd: safe and easy way to use a set of 2 piece mounts on the rifle is to use the front set of scope stop plate screw holes.
-Mount the plate with the rounded edge facing forward and tighten it down
-Now take the scope ring you want on the front, set the back edge of that ring snug against the edge of the scope stop plate and tighten the ring down
-Loose mount the rear ring so you can slide it back and forth and get it and the scope set where you want them, put the ring caps and screws in loosely, then tighten all screws checking while you do that the scope stays where you want it.
With that scope stop plate mounted how I described, that front ring now can't move and your rings stay put. Should look like this picture of mine only with both screws in the stop plate:
-
Can't hurt to take that tape off the Nikko mounts since not a clue what they use. If you still want tape, 3M makes what they call friction tape that works quite well.
2nd: safe and easy way to use a set of 2 piece mounts on the rifle is to use the front set of scope stop plate screw holes.
-Mount the plate with the rounded edge facing forward and tighten it down
-Now take the scope ring you want on the front, set the back edge of that ring snug against the edge of the scope stop plate and tighten the ring down
-Loose mount the rear ring so you can slide it back and forth and get it and the scope set where you want them, put the ring caps and screws in loosely, then tighten all screws checking while you do that the scope stays where you want it.
With that scope stop plate mounted how I described, that front ring now can't move and your rings stay put. Should look like this picture of mine only with both screws in the stop plate:
Yep did that first time i mounted but back mount started sliping on rail, then i put some alcohol and move it in front, will try to remove that tape its like smooth, and will try to again clean it with alcohol and put it in back, and stop pins on mounts are pure garbage, already damaged one of my holes :/, and torque wrenches sell about 100 dollars here.
-
I've never used Nikko-Sterling scope rings so I can't honestly say how well they clamp to the dovetail or not. The ring itself might well be the problem if it won't clamp tight enough to the rail and where you've said the scope is also sliding in the rings, then yes, scope sliding back will cause a loose ring to also slide.
Any scope stop pins in the rings themselves are useless since Hatsan has no holes drilled in the receiver for them, just those 4 threaded holes for the small screws used on the scope stop plate.
-
Soo should i put something in between, i found like a sponge its about 3mm and there is tape, or should i put bit red silicone on screws, dont know what to do, cant really find good quailty rings
-
For >18 fpe (24.4J) spring piston air rifles I try to NOT use a scope. Had many problems with slipping scopes/mounts when using this type of mount...
http://www.nikkostirling.com/Images/Scopes/Mounts%20and%20Rings/mountmasteraomounts/NSMM3038H/web/NSMM3038H_DYN_left300.jpg (http://www.nikkostirling.com/Images/Scopes/Mounts%20and%20Rings/mountmasteraomounts/NSMM3038H/web/NSMM3038H_DYN_left300.jpg)
When I do try to mount a scope on >18 fpe springers it is with this type of mount...
http://www.nikkostirling.com/Images/Scopes/Mounts%20and%20Rings/Gold%20Crown%20Airking%20Mounts/NMC38ONEH/web/NMC38ONE_DYN_Left.jpg (http://www.nikkostirling.com/Images/Scopes/Mounts%20and%20Rings/Gold%20Crown%20Airking%20Mounts/NMC38ONEH/web/NMC38ONE_DYN_Left.jpg)
The one piece mounts (I prefer 4+ screw versions when I can find them) grab the 11mm rail better. I don't remove any factory tape, do clean with some oil removing solvent, and I don't use a torque wrench. I just crank the scope clamp screws down evenly and pretty tight! Have used this method only ~10 times and have not crushed a scope tube yet. However, I'm probably pretty close to tube crush on some of them.
I don't have any personal experience with Nikkostirling parts. Linked images are just for example.
-
Im currently using 2pc mounts(link one), ye i screw them down evenly,cant find 1pc mount beside some chines one a d idk how but my friend has hatsan 125 with optima scope and still didnt move or anything he put it on 11mm rail, and its too late i bought scope so ye and im planing on upgrading to 125
-
soo only option is to get hawke match mounts high that are overpriced around 70 dollars, would they be better than these i have? and will it surviv on 125
-
That gun has two sets of screw holes for the scope stop. If you use the back set the scope is sometimes too far forward for good eye relief.
If you use the second set of screw holes you can slide the front scope ring back against it. That will keep the scope rings from moving on the 11mm grooves.
Slide the scope back so the adjustment turrets are against the back ring. That should stop the scope sliding inside the rings. Easy peasy.
I've had 3 or4 of those cheap Hatsans Striker/Edge/VMX. That always worked for me.
-
Yup did that when i first got them, but back mount started sliding back and scope also, so only thing is to get new mounts i guess
-
If possible get a one piece scope mount.
-Y
-
i tried but only 1pc chines ones that are probably poor quailty like these nikko stirling ones i have, now im looking if there are some mounts on Optics-trade, only thing i saw were hawke match mounts and bkl mounts, now about bkl i dont know much, but they are bit more expensive than hawke, those bkl all look same to me beside price diffrence ngl.
https://www.optics-trade.eu/hr/mounts/fixed-mounts/airgun-mounts/shopby/suitable_for_rails-11_mm_dovetail.html (https://www.optics-trade.eu/hr/mounts/fixed-mounts/airgun-mounts/shopby/suitable_for_rails-11_mm_dovetail.html)
-
If you can't get those screws tighter than that you need to find a friend who can.
-
i tighten them even more but still sliding, even screws started to strip a bit
-
Not trying to be rude, but I think you have lost the battle.
I understand that you may have limited access to certain items like high quality scope mounts and that prices may be unreasonably high. IMO there are only two options. Either use a higher quality scope mount (assuming you can even get one) or learn to use the open sights.
Even with my aging vision more than 90% of my springer rifles are SCOPELESS. I easily get 1/2" (or smaller) 10 shot groups at 30' (~9m, limit of my indoor range) and can still see well enough to shoot with open sights out to ~90'.
Springers in general are DIFFICULT to shoot with accuracy and consistency because they jump and vibrate a lot (why scope/mount problems are common) before the pellet ever leaves the barrel. Expensive precision made springers can minimize this jumpiness but don't completely eliminate it.
If you need high precision accuracy out to ~30m a budget springer like the Hatsan Edge rifle is your absolute worst choice. I am a big Hatsan fan and enjoy shooting all my Hatsan rifles, but putting pellet on pellet at 30m I cannot do with any springer scoped or not. That is what my PCPs are for.
Good luck and best wishes :)
-
Add a little coating of lite glue or Spray Adhesive to the ring tape or bare ring. Just dont use a glue thats super strong so you can remove it if needed later in life.
I used the Spray Adhesive. I had aroung for automotive headliner use .. i just sprayed some on the tip of my finger and dabbed a little in each ,
My scope was not sliding but rotating clockwise. Lol..
-
Add a little coating of lite glue or Spray Adhesive to the ring tape or bare ring. Just dont use a glue thats super strong so you can remove it if needed later in life.
I used the Spray Adhesive. I had aroung for automotive headliner use .. i just sprayed some on the tip of my finger and dabbed a little in each ,
My scope was not sliding but rotating clockwise. Lol..
Would appear his bigger issue is scope rings that won't clamp tight enough to the dovetail. If they don't, battle lost and time to spend a little more for better quality rings.
-
i can find hawke match mounts 2pc for about 70 dollars here and thats it, now are they good enough i dont know, now using open sight i used them for over a year, but problem is that i spent good amount on scope, and PCPs we dont have them here also lol, so im stuck here with cheap hatsan brake barrles.
-
I eas going to ask for a picture of it tighten down and see the gap between the rings
Are they closed sed up completely, normal, uneven.
I guess you could go with a thicker shim + the gluing to maintain the gap to tighten it down more correct..
Kinda like the 1" insert for a 30mm ring kinda thing.
Then are you sure your not using a 30mm ring on a 1" scope?
-
Deeco, you're focused on the part where his scope is sliding in the rings. His bigger issue is his scope rings aren't clamping tight enough to the dovetail.
If the rings won't clamp tight, the scope sliding inside them doesn't matter...lol.
For what it's worth, all my Hatsan's (and more than a few other rifles I own) all have Hawke Match mounts on them and I've never had a single ring slide on the
dovetails or a scope slide inside the rings. The Hawke rings should work just fine for you.
Hatsan Edge Vortex .25 caliber, Hawke Vantage scope in reversed Hawke Reach Forward Match mounts with the scope stop plate mounted exactly like the picture I posted above.
Still have that rifle, set up exactly like you see it and over 4000 shots on it and neither the rings or scope have ever moved.
-
Try flipping the clamp over. there 2 way you may have in place the 3/4 gruve "jaw" not the 11mm jaw.
It is reversible... notice on side of the clamps pips are longer the the other(top pic)
Incorrect for 11mm 2ed
Correct for 11mm 3d
-
I've had a few of the Strike/Edge/VMX guns. Got a gas ram 1000s in a wood stock now. Got it on sale for like $50. Stock broke at the front stock screws and I got a wood stock for it.
The only reason the guns were popular was they were powerful but cheap and you could get them in .25 and .20 and they were still cheap. Trigger's awful and they're ugly. I would just as soon have a B3 or B2. You can't even get a new B2 these days and B3 are getting to expensive. B1's are even to high.
-
Try flipping the clamp over. there 2 way you may have in place the 3/4 gruve "jaw" not the 11mm jaw.
It is reversible... notice on side of the clamps pips are longer the the other(top pic)
Incorrect for 11mm 2ed
Correct for 11mm 3d
only can put in on 1 side cant rotate it, it only gets bigger gap so i doesnt mount, i will try again rub with some alcohol and put them on, bit tighter and we will see if that doest fix it i guess im buying new mounts
-
Well hate to hear that , but it happens
Here's my latest utg one piece mount wonderful fit of the scope tube in the back ring..lol .. aint just you so dont feel bad
-
Soo finaly im about to get mounts now i saw 2 more mounts came and those are hawke match 1pc mounts and hawke extension mounts, so if i would get 1pc mounts should i use that small steel piece (scope stop plate) ?
-
You should use the scope stop. You can move the scope stop to the front set of screw holes and slide the front scope ring back against it. If you use the back screw holes you'll need an off-set mount to get your eye close enough to the scope to get a good clear picture. You'll notice the rear scope ring on the Edge in the picture above with the Moon camo. It is off-set.
Very cool looking camo and scope mounts, by the way, on that gun. I could never find the moon camo when I had the money to get one. I liked that moon camo cheap gun or not.
-
The Harvest Moon Camo was actually a mistake on my part. Didn't read far enough to see the gun was a springer not a gas ram
and bought it. Don't regret it in the end. The Camo stock now has my Edge Vortex .25 in it and the spring version, which is also a
.25 cal, got tuned by me, now rides in a Webley Spector stock and I use it for a short range brush gun.
-
That's one thing about Hatsan, most their models have lots of verity in stocks and calibers
-
You should use the scope stop. You can move the scope stop to the front set of screw holes and slide the front scope ring back against it. If you use the back screw holes you'll need an off-set mount to get your eye close enough to the scope to get a good clear picture. You'll notice the rear scope ring on the Edge in the picture above with the Moon camo. It is off-set.
Very cool looking camo and scope mounts, by the way, on that gun. I could never find the moon camo when I had the money to get one. I liked that moon camo cheap gun or not.
So should i get hawke extension mounts like on picture or 1pc
-
It's not called an extention. It is an off-set mount. You don't have to have one if you use the front screw holes for the scope stop. If you use the back holes you'll probably need an off set mount or ring.
-
ok so i should buy those off-set mounts and not 1pc.
-
1 more time I guess....
The action is an Edge .25 caliber springer, the picture is 2 possible mounting options: 1 piece mount or 2 piece rings.
- The one piece mount is the inexpensive 1 piece mount that came on a Hammers scope and probably Chinese. The stop plate uses the rear 2 screw holes.
- The 2 piece rings are Hawke Reach Forward Match mounts with a 1 inch offset only I reverse them and use the offset ring on the back. The stop plate gets moved
to the front 2 holes and the front ring gets placed behind it and tightened down.
You can compare in the pictures where the scope eyepiece sits depending on which one you use. Everyone differs in where they like their scopes to sit on a rifle.
Me? I do not and never have liked feeling hunched over a rifle when I shoot and why I chose to use the 2 piece rings. They let me sit the scope back farther so
I don't have to hunch over the stock to see through my scope.
Final choice is yours and only yours which you choose, since what works for me may very well not work for you. The picture is just to give you an idea of what
each one will look like on your rifle.
-
Looking at some pics of this rifle, do you see that little tab of steel screwed to the top back of the receiver with 2 screws?
It's called a scope stop.
The trick is take it out and put it in the trash.
Loosen your rear scope ring. Slide it forward until it butts against the rear of your scope turret. Tighten it back down.
Then make a new, longer scope stop that is perfectly sized so it butts against the back of the rear scope ring.
-
The trick with that scope stop is actually to leave it right where it is, in the front 2 holes like in the picture I posted, with the front ring against it.
It will work as intended and making a new longer one isn't necessary.
For the back ring, you can use either a standard ring or an offset like I did. Either will work since there's plenty of dovetail space back there. Part of
why I chose offsets was to keep the rings AWAY from the turrets.
Then again, I've only owned 23 of them at one time or another and done it that same way on every one of them but what would I know I guess....
-
The trick with that scope stop is actually to leave it right where it is, in the front 2 holes like in the picture I posted, with the front ring against it.
It will work as intended and making a new longer one isn't necessary.
For the back ring, you can use either a standard ring or an offset like I did. Either will work since there's plenty of dovetail space back there. Part of
why I chose offsets was to keep the rings AWAY from the turrets.
Then again, I've only owned 23 of them at one time or another and done it that same way on every one of them but what would I know I guess....
+1
Josip, the bottom picture is what you want.
-
I didn't realize there were multiple screw holes for the scope stop. Most have only one position to put the stop, and the stock stop is nothing more than a place-holder for using open sights.
I still don't see why you'd rather use it on the front. Can you not put the stop far enough to the rear for eye relief?
The bell on the front of most scopes is gently ramped, and I have marks at this spot on one of my scopes trying to use the front ring butted against the bell. The turret/rear ring is the way to go, IME. And the only way to do it with the typical scope stop.
But thanks for the schooling. More than one way to skin 23 cats.
I just checked to see how the *(&^ I did that to a scope, to begin with. Found the rifle. It has a picatinny rail. That's how. Yeah, it stopped the creep after the front ring dug a deep enough indent into the bell, through the anodizing. But it's OP's Vortex.
Part of
why I chose offsets was to keep the rings AWAY from the turrets.
Sounds like you found a novel way to mount a scope, because this rifle has multiple holes for the scope stop. And... it's better at keeping the rings away from the turret.
-
Maybe this is helpful to OP.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3oAb6HwH_g (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3oAb6HwH_g)
A different rifle and stock stop, obviously. But sounds like on some Hatsans, you might need a SHORTER stop rather than longer.
Steve, I'm sorry if my first post came off like I was trivializing or ignoring your advice. I thought I read through all of it and still saw no indication of OP nor anyone else mentioning the use of the scope stop or the proper positioning of the rings on the scope to stop the creep in the rings, themselves. And I admit I didn't take a long look at your pictures. That's an interesting solution and it must be good if you repeated it 23 times. I don't know why you needed to buy 23 of these, though. That seems like a lot for one lifetime! You must have a lot of happy friends and relatives!
-
The stop plate in the video is an older version, flat plate and only 2 holes. Problem with them was if the rings slid, they had the
nasty habit of sliding up and onto the stop plate, sheared screws off or both. Not quite a different rifle, just a different stock since
the only differences between the Edge, Striker and 1000X series rifles are cosmetic ones. The actions are all exactly the same.
It was changed to the newer style with a bit bigger plate, 2 screws to anchor it better and the raised/curled lip to stop rings from
sliding on top of it. I actually learned the way I do from another member. Offset bases or the offset rings like I use allow for getting
a scope to sit farther back for better eye relief plus my offset rings allow for more space between the rings and turrets. With a 1 piece
mount you get something 2 1/4 inches between the rings. With my offset rings, I get at least 2 1/2 with room for a bit more if I want,
which makes for easier removal of turret caps and because I use IR scopes, easier adjusting of the IR when I want without smacking
fingers on the scope ring.
23? Yep...lol. Model 95, Model 95QE, Model 87QE, Edge, 1000X in multiple calibers. Hatsan also built rifles for the Webley & Scott brand
for any number of years and I still own 8 of the ones I bought although I don't think Hatsan builds those anymore. That's another thread
all on it's own. I do own others and also have HW, Beeman, Diana, Mendozas, a Norica and others among the 28 I still have.
-
Okay so, after what like 5 months my mounts finaly came yesterday, so i decided to try them but noticed scope was sliding inside mounts, so i took off the top of mount and i saw tape that should been in mounts has been taped to scope, should i take that tape out and mount it without it or? Also when i was mounting i tighten them with thumb and 2 fingers with hex key till i cant no more. Should i tighten them more or, can it be scope that is a problem?
-
I remove the tape and lap the rings with a piece of 1" steel tube and lapping compound. I only use tape when shimming a scope. I tighten my scope mounts no more than I can comfortably turn them using the short arm of the Allen key for leverage. Too tight and you can crimp the tube or distort the rings.
-
This is why I prefer the versatility of rings, personally. Butt the rear ring against the back of the turret, so the scope can't slide. It always slides backwards in a springer. With a 1 piece, you'll end up butting the front ring against the front bell, if the scope is too short.
Then use a scope stop to keep the rear ring from sliding back. If the scope stop isn't in the right position, make a new one the right length.
If the most rearward hole isn't rear-enough, drill and tap a new hole.
Here's what can happen to your scope, if you try to use the front ring to keep the scope from sliding.
(https://i.imgur.com/btn18mp.jpg)
This rifle didn't come with any stop or holes. Just drill and tap a hole, then any piece of metal you can drill a hole through is your new scope stop, custom length for your own eye relief.
(https://i.imgur.com/xwsmLPz.jpg?1)
Each their own of course. Apologies if I stated this opinion too strongly the first time. But it should be obvious this is superior. :) LOL
-
Soo removed that tape, still moving, now back mount started to move a bit, what should i do, should i put back that tape and put some blue loctite on screws that go for rail.
-
now back mount started to move a bit, what should i do, should i put back that tape and put some blue loctite on screws that go for rail
Can you describe what you're doing with your scope stop? Lefteye says it won't work in the usual way, because it's too far forward. What are you doing with the scope stop?
It's not there for decoration. If the "back mount" was sitting against a scope stop, it wouldn't be sliding anywhere.
Did you put it behind your front mount? If you did that, it will eventually stop sliding when the mount has dug a deep enough crater in the back of your front bell. As long as you're OK with that... Once the scope stops moving in the front ring, then the rear mount will stop moving. It's worth a try to get that front ring to hold so well this damage doesn't occur (even though IME, that is futile).
It's a longshot, but make sure your rings are machined right. I've had some that bottom out too early and needed to be hit with a sander. Make sure there's a slight gap between the top and bottom ring halves, else you're just stripping your screws rather than getting the ring to hold the scope tighter.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=102247.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=102247.0)
Some are using just the rear screw, rather than both. To move the stop back a wee bit.
If that fails, M4 0.75 is the threading used on the one factory scope stop screw I have actually measured. Take the guts out, drill, tap, and done. You can buy a tap and tap wrench for the cost of new rings, let alone a Vortex scope.
-
Okay so i put that scope stop in front 2 holes, and placed mount in front of it and placed offset mount behind it.
If i put scope stop behind back mount then there will be no eye relief.
Also i saw when i took tape off mounts and mounted scope after few shots i took off scope and noticed in front mount there was like bit scratches, now did i put wrong i dont know. Here is picture.
-
Those markings... it looks like you're butting the front bell against the front ring?
If that produces the right eye relief for you, and this is how you want to do it? I suggest you grind/sand a slight bevel on your front rings, to roughly match the angle of your front scope bell. Then it should keep the scope from continually creeping back over thousands of shots, shifting zero, until the point the scope gets creased. Sandpaper over a pipe/dowel.
Don't put as much bevel on the top half. The top half is going to cockeye back, a wee bit.
If your front ring isn't butted up against bell, and your rear ring doesn't have a stop... good luck with that. You better like missing shots and re-zeroing your rifle.
-
Just struck me, in your pic. That is an offset mount on the rear? Is that really necessary, even after moving the scope stop to the front? (Wow, sounds like the LOP/buttstock on the rifle is ridiculously long).
With the offset mount, the rear placement of the scope stop should have plenty of room. But you'd need to make a way longer scope stop, after you butt the rear ring against the back of the turret.
Edit: Of course, that's if the front ring still has room to fit on the scope tube, after sliding the rear offset all the way up. And might need to check the back of the offset mount area, so see if there's a good surface for a scope stop to press against. Some are all curvy there. (Nothing that a Dremel and file wouldn't amend, but if filing a mount or drilling a couple holes is asking too much, you might be better off just buying a different rifle!)
-
Here are some mounting tips from the God Father of Airguns.
https://youtu.be/SoJhvFpjlDA
https://youtu.be/Le1aWa1tmiE
https://youtu.be/H6FLr9QBFKc
-
The second video where he advocates to avoid butting the ring against the turret?
Yes. If your goal is to maximize your scope life while shooting randomly in the air as many times as possible, not caring about your zero.
Your scope will last even longer if you just leave it in the box.
Seriously, though. If you avoid putting the turret against the ring, the scope/turret will take the exact same recoil 99% of the time. The scope won't move through a hundred shots. Or 300 shots. But eventually it will slip and creep back a little. Then stick there for awhile before it creeps again.
So technically, on that say 1 shot out of 100, where the scope creeps, yeah. The impact on the scope was decreased. But then you missed a few shots and had to spend another 10-20 to rezero, maybe even having to drive to a range to rezero your more powerful, longer range rifles.
-
I've owned upwards of 50 rifles ranging from 7 fpe all the way to a little over 20 fpe and I have never, ever had a scope slide or even creep in the rings
they're mounted in. Not a clue where you came up with the idea that scopes on every springer do it.
Prime example?? The rifle is a .25 cal Hatsan Model 95 that started life as a gas ram, is now a springer and has had a Hawke Vantage 4-12x50 AO
scope mounted in those Hawke offset rings exactly the way I suggested Mixon mount his and the ONLY time that scope has moved is when I took
it completely off the rifle when it was torn down and converted from a gas ram to a spring. It's had well over 5000 shots fired through it and again,
has never, ever moved either on the rails or in the rings.
-
Well, that is very helpful information. OP will be glad to hear his scope isn't creeping. That's was just a rumor started by me.
-
We'll just have to say my experiences differ from yours since you've experienced scope creep and I never have.
-
I don't care how you mount your scopes, Steve.
Mixonja is the one who spent months buying the parts and setting up his rifle exactly like you recommended. And his scope is still moving. Maybe you have some additional advice for him.
My scopes all hold zero and work fine, butted against the turret. I broke one scope, so far. It is a CVlife scope that was about the cheapest thing money could buy with optical quality of a potato. And on exam, the internal lens vibrated loose. Nothing to do with the turret. Tightened it back up and it's completely fixed and working fine... if you like looking through a potato.
This doesn't prove your scope won't explode into pieces on the first shot, but any scope can break at any time. It does stop the scope from creeping. And it doesn't leave any external damage to the turret.
Edit: I suppose all scope are not necessarily made and shaped the same. My springer scopes include UTG, CP, Monstrum, and more generic scopes. If your turret has a gentle radius where it meets the tube, this would crease the scope if you don't radius the inside of the scope ring.
-
My first break barrel was a gas ram. No irons on it, and I shot that with a scope from day 1.
I didn't think much of it. I kept it around, but I used my pneumatics when I wanted to hit anything.
Aside from learning my own version of the stock screw song, I also learned way more than I ever wanted about different kinds of loctite. Also learned about the possibility of the maker using the entirely wrong barrel length on a rifle. Then there's the "artilllery hold," which is the last thing on my own list to even lose sleep over. Lots of time wasted there. (If your rifle groups like a shotgun, it isn't the hold).
I finally got it shooting great, and today I trust my springers as much as my pneumatics. But I have to wonder how many shots it took before the first scope stopped creeping in the rings, after finding this.
(https://i.imgur.com/btn18mp.jpg?1)
I have no idea if my other rifles would creep, because I have done the rear ring/turret thing ever since. And so far, it's been set-it and forget it, which keeps my new gun checklist much shorter and my scope rings much safer from being stripped. My only other reminder of this problem was on my B1, which didn't originally come with a scope stop.
I'm not sure why the guy in that video thinks it causes internal damage. If there's an issue, I suppose I'll find out. I put around 10k-20k shots a year through my springers.
-
Another tidbit that I just recalled. My 30mm-tube Monstrum scopes have a gentle radius between the turret and the scope body. It's one single piece of aluminum. But measuring with calipers, there's a small recess at the junction ~20 thous thinner than the rest of the tube, which would logically be for this purpose. To allow a scope ring to be placed right against the turret without damage.
-
I don't know why you needed to buy 23 of these, though. That seems like a lot for one lifetime!
Many folks here have bought many more than that. The thing about airgunning is that you can choose your own way.
Some buy a single gun and shoot it for a decade, becoming deadly and bonding mightily with the One. Others buy new guns on a regular basis, and are always selling, trading, or simply keeping their older inventory. I think most experienced guys have gone through quite a stack of springers before learning what really works for them.
There's no right or wrong way to do this, as the act of acquiring new guns, learning about them and making them tick is just as valid a hobby as is sharpening one's marksmanship skills, or filling the squirrel pot.
-
For sure. I have owned around that many airguns, myself, if I go all the way back to 3rd grade. Have about half that many, at the moment, including 8 springers.
I thought he meant 23 Hatsan Edge rifles.
-
Correction. Earlier in the thread, I suggested M4 x 0.75 for a scope stop screw.
Just wanted to fix that. I found a label in the parts bin, I had written out. "Scope Stop Screw M4 x 0.7"
Finer thread should be preferred in the thin metal of a cylinder wall.
-
Okay so i put that scope stop in front 2 holes, and placed mount in front of it and placed offset mount behind it.
If i put scope stop behind back mount then there will be no eye relief.
Also i saw when i took tape off mounts and mounted scope after few shots i took off scope and noticed in front mount there was like bit scratches, now did i put wrong i dont know. Here is picture.
Did you ever find a solution? My scope/rings have done the exact same thing.
-
I’ve had good luck with this inexpensive off set mount. I use it on my Striker and mod 95. It is sold under the CenterPoint brand at Academy Sports for under $15. I’ve also seen the same mount sold as a UTG by Pyramyd Air.
It stays in place with fairly heavy scopes mounted, utilizes the scope stop, and provides decent eye relief.
-
Okay so i put that scope stop in front 2 holes, and placed mount in front of it and placed offset mount behind it.
If i put scope stop behind back mount then there will be no eye relief.
Also i saw when i took tape off mounts and mounted scope after few shots i took off scope and noticed in front mount there was like bit scratches, now did i put wrong i dont know. Here is picture.
Did you ever find a solution? My scope/rings have done the exact same thing.
Sadly not, just threw them in trash, and now im thinking should i buy another scope mounts, or just leave it without scope.
-
I’m not sure either, I thought about a UTG dove to pic rail adapter and reverse it to extend backward. Then use only one screw to hold recoil plate to shift it back. For the scope, bump the turret to the rear ring to hold it, my scope has a shoulder before and after the erector turret.
I thought about re-working the hawke rings in a similar manor, I got 3M friction tape, because the hawke stuff is smeared out of the rings. I wonder if it is the heat that makes that tape do that. It has been 95-100 degrees F here. With cheaper rings and a springer I think you need tape.
Or like you, just use the iron sights. I had to loc-tite my rear iron sight as it almost fell off the other day lol.