GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Air Gun Gate => Topic started by: Bayman on October 10, 2021, 12:34:35 PM
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There was another thread about the effectiveness of Tune in a Tube. There it was suggested that Tune in a Tube was actually Almagard 3752. Many people said they had good results with Tune in a Tube so I wanted to try the Almagard to see if it would eliminate the little bit twang left in my R9. The baseline is my Vortek kitted 20 caliber R9. Lubed with krytox it was shooting JSB 13.73 738 fps for 16.6 fpe.
Yesterday I disassembled the rifle and stripped the krytox from the spring kit and relubed it in similar fashion with the Almagard. My impression of the grease was that it was incredibly sticky. This can be good and bad. Good that it should stay on the spring and not sling off and cause dieseling or detonation. Bad in that it could slow the gun down.
Results.
The little bit of twang it had was reduced to near nothing. The velocity dipped to 726. Losing roughly a half pound of energy. I might have accomplished the same thing staying krytox and cutting back the sping.
I did put some on the cocking slot and shoe and it does cock smoother now. I think it would be good for lubing pivots and other metal to metal wear points.
All in all if Tune in a Tube is, or like Almagard 3752 I can see it working to smooth out a spring gun. Up to now I've been down on slot tunes and lube tunes because I've seen were excessive lube gets in front of the seal and detonates causing damage to the gun. This stuff seems sticky enough to stay put.
I will have to do more testing to see if the gun becomes temperature sensitive. One of the advantages krytox is that it isn't effected by temperatures that we shoot at.
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One of the disadvantages of Krytox I've read is you can't remove it completely without Dupont's special (expensive) solvent. As far as lube getting in front of the piston seal I've only had it happen with a worn piston seal. A new seal stopped the dieseling. The spring in this instance was lubed with bearing grease.
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That was a very interesting read. I have sparingly used Tune In a Lube and Super Tech's Multi-Duty Complex grease (lithiun base) to cure buzz in my springers. I will use it when the time comes for more maintenance.
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One of the disadvantages of Krytox I've read is you can't remove it completely without Dupont's special (expensive) solvent. As far as lube getting in front of the piston seal I've only had it happen with a worn piston seal. A new seal stopped the dieseling. The spring in this instance was lubed with bearing grease.
Maybe on a molecular level on some unusual materials. Krytox can be wiped off with a towel and standard solvents. I use it (and remove it) regularly at work and airguns.
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Thanks Ron,
I suggest you shoot it some more to see if the velocity is stable. Over time (as the grease settles in a new equilibrium after so many shot cycles) and at high/low temperatures. Certainly, losing 12 FPS seems trivial, as many springers vary by more than that shot-to-shot.
About how much grease did you use, in teaspoons, Cubic inches, or ml?
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Thanks Ron,
I suggest you shoot it some more to see if the velocity is stable. Over time (as the grease settles in a new equilibrium after so many shot cycles) and at high/low temperatures. Certainly, losing 12 FPS seems trivial, as many springers vary by more than that shot-to-shot.
About how much grease did you use, in teaspoons, Cubic inches, or ml?
I used very little. I wouldn't know how to measure it. Probably around 1ml definitely not more than 2ml. I just put a dab on my and ran it up and down the spring OD creating a light web. Lightly lubed the spring ID guides with a quarter inch brush. This is the same way as I lube with krytox or any other grease.
I rechecked the gun yesterday a few times it first lost velocity averaging in the 7teens. Then later came up back up to the mid 720s with a few shots touching 740. The extreme spread opened up with some hints of dieseling. Since I only lubed the spring with the Almagard, I'd have to assume it's gassing off or it's not staying on the spring. This gun had an average ES of 7 beforehand. Now it's 20. Btw all my chronograph tests are strings of ten shots. I'll check it some more later today. Got a feeling I'll be reverting to Krytox and either living with the slight twang or clipping the spring.
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Thanks
Clipping the spring will have the effect of increasing guide to spring ID interference (the greater spring preload, the larger spring ID). Of you could make a larger guide... Depends on your goal for FPE. 16+ FPE sounds enough to lose one...
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Thanks
Clipping the spring will have the effect of increasing guide to spring ID interference (the greater spring preload, the larger spring ID). Of you could make a larger guide... Depends on your goal for FPE. 16+ FPE sounds enough to lose one...
Spring ID does change when compressed. It takes a I fair amount of compression to change the ID. Clipping a coil will have negligible effects on the ID. Especially in its extended preload position. My interest in clipping the spring lies in the likelihood that the gun is just over sprung. It's more like a sharp twang than a buzz. The guides all fit well and I think the twang is excess energy that's unsupported between the guides. I'm looking for a quick thud without a hint of spring. I was hoping the Almagard would dampen that twang. It was worth a try
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Yes, clipping one coil won't change spring ID significantly, Ron. Nor reduce the stored energy in the whole spring significantly. However, clipping that little may shift the resonant frequency or phasing of whatever portion of the spring is vibrating offensively.
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Thanks for doing this experiment. If anything, it shows that Krytox (or similar) may be better for those who need a tighter velocity spread and lube tuning would be good for a gun that occasionally comes out or a casual shooter and their springer just needs a bit of smoothing.
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One of the disadvantages of Krytox I've read is you can't remove it completely without Dupont's special (expensive) solvent. As far as lube getting in front of the piston seal I've only had it happen with a worn piston seal. A new seal stopped the dieseling. The spring in this instance was lubed with bearing grease.
Cheap Non-chlorinated aerosol brake cleaner will do a sufficient job of removing Krytox residue in a spring gun to not be an issue. LOL....even if petro lube is mixed with Krytox on high speed bearings, the issue is that the petro based will degrade and then degrade the Krytox in the mix and springers AREN'T "high speed high temp bearings"............
(https://i.imgur.com/51O4FWm.png) (https://i.imgur.com/vdguI7B.png)
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Link to the tune in a tube thread that inspired Ron to run his grease test in this thread:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=191953.msg156223517#msg156223517 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=191953.msg156223517#msg156223517)
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I really would like to try the tune in a tube.
But not available here on Holland.
The thing that comes close to it is red n tacky.
That I can buy here.
Hoping someone Wil guide me if it's usable or not.
I got a few springers that buzz really annoying.
And not wanting to open them up.
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Ron, according to Tom Gaylord, TIAT and Almagard are the same. I've used TIAT to get rid of twang, but in my experience, it always returns, however I've only applied it thru the cocking slot. The third time it comes back, off to Scott it goes.
I think in your case you can take it apart, slather a little on, reassemble, and you'll be golden.
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No almagard in my country to.
And no tune in a tube.
Can someone conferm lucas red n tacky is the same thing. This I can buy.
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Red and tacky is used to lube the fifth wheels on semi trucks. Don't know how it'd do in a gun, but don't get it near anything you don't want ruined, seriously.
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I can't tell you if Lucas Red and Tacky is the same thing as the Almagard 3752. I can tell you that red and tacky perfectly describes the Almagard 3752. It's the stickiest grease I've ever worked with. In my line of work that's saying a lot.
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Ron has perfectly expressed my impression of red and tacky, as an equivalent product for Almagard 3752. I would use half as much as you think you need on the spring guide between spring coils. If that does not reduce twang enough, add more grease.
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Ok. Thanx guys, I Wil order a jar of it.
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Yes, clipping one coil won't change spring ID significantly, Ron. Nor reduce the stored energy in the whole spring significantly. However, clipping that little may shift the resonant frequency or phasing of whatever portion of the spring is vibrating offensively.
I have a conundrum.. I think the gun is over sprung. Do I continue the experiment and clip a coil without changing the lube? Or do I call it a wash and go back to the Krytox and clip a coil. The Almagard didn't dampen the twang much and seems to be temperature sensitive. With the Almagard it initially shoots 7-teens and loosens up with use into the 730s. The extreme spread never stabilizes to the low numbers I had with Krytox. Hmmm?
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Yes, clipping one coil won't change spring ID significantly, Ron. Nor reduce the stored energy in the whole spring significantly. However, clipping that little may shift the resonant frequency or phasing of whatever portion of the spring is vibrating offensively.
I have a conundrum.. I think the gun is over sprung. Do I continue the experiment and clip a coil without changing the lube? Or do I call it a wash and go back to the Krytox and clip a coil. The Almagard didn't dampen the twang much and seems to be temperature sensitive. With the Almagard it initially shoots 7-teens and loosens up with use into the 730s. The extreme spread never stabilizes to the low numbers I had with Krytox. Hmmm?
Ron, I vote to clip a coil and go back to Krytox, springs are cheap if it doesn't work out. I personally think adding grease is a temporary solution that is not really addressing the root cause of the twang. JMO
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Hi Ron,
Consider a brief detour, on the way to the obvious destination:
Take the stock off the HW95 and add twice as much Almagard to the guide as there is now, via the clocking slot between spring coils. We expect to see temperature sensitivity to get noticeably worse (ambient shifts, and heat from continued shooting). The effort to prove this won't be much compared to stripping the gun and cleaning off the grease, cutting the spring etc.
This is a bit like a cop looking at evidence to prove a suspect innocent, rather than to convict. However, unbiased investigators will also look at all available evidence, even if it seems to disprove the obvious; rather than just to bolster the case they want to make for the prosecution.
If adding enough grease to quell the buzz makes the velocity vary by an unacceptable value; AND causes a vertical POI drift, then this thread should be made a sticky as the reference study on this subject. After all, we care about +-20 FPS because it causes POI drift and not for any other reason. Sometimes pellet weights in a can will vary more than we would like, and the muzzle velocity along with it. Curiously, that does not always translate to significant POI shifts on target.
Then, after you cut the spring and lube with Krytox, the power, smoothness, lack of thermal sensitivity on velocity and POI stability would amplify the Almagard result, as a poor solution. And Krytox and optimal guide/spring selection/preparation as the preferred solution.
On the other hand, if clipping the spring an lubing with Krytox does not provide the velocity stability and smoothness you expect, then some of the poor performance seen with Almagard may need to be forgiven. Or blamed on the pellets.
Just because we drive variables and study the effects does not mean the deliberate variable is the primary one affecting results. Hence my suggestion to generate more than one variable data set, to verify the observed response was due to the deliberate variable.
So, call the study triple greased, if not double blind :) .
Anyway; it is your study and you are putting in the effort. So; your call.
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Hi Ron,
Consider a brief detour, on the way to the obvious destination:
Take the stock off the HW95 and add twice as much Almagard to the guide as there is now, via the clocking slot between spring coils. We expect to see temperature sensitivity to get noticeably worse (ambient shifts, and heat from continued shooting). The effort to prove this won't be much compared to stripping the gun and cleaning off the grease, cutting the spring etc.
This is a bit like a cop looking at evidence to prove a suspect innocent, rather than to convict. However, unbiased investigators will also look at all available evidence, even if it seems to disprove the obvious; rather than just to bolster the case they want to make for the prosecution.
If adding enough grease to quell the buzz makes the velocity vary by an unacceptable value; AND causes a vertical POI drift, then this thread should be made a sticky as the reference study on this subject. After all, we care about +-20 FPS because it causes POI drift and not for any other reason. Sometimes pellet weights in a can will vary more than we would like, and the muzzle velocity along with it. Curiously, that does not always translate to significant POI shifts on target.
Then, after you cut the spring and lube with Krytox, the power, smoothness, lack of thermal sensitivity on velocity and POI stability would amplify the Almagard result, as a poor solution. And Krytox and optimal guide/spring selection/preparation as the preferred solution.
On the other hand, if clipping the spring an lubing with Krytox does not provide the velocity stability and smoothness you expect, then some of the poor performance seen with Almagard may need to be forgiven. Or blamed on the pellets.
Just because we drive variables and study the effects does not mean the deliberate variable is the primary one affecting results. Hence my suggestion to generate more than one variable data set, to verify the observed response was due to the deliberate variable.
So, call the study triple greased, if not double blind :) .
Anyway; it is your study and you are putting in the effort. So; your call.
The Vortek guide arrangement requires the spring removed from the gun and guides to add more Almagard. Not something terribly time consuming but with the Almagard already widening the ES and creating hints of dieseling and temperature sensitivity I'm not sure the I want to go through the work to add more grease just to put the nail in its coffin.
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Update : clipped one coil and added a little more Almagard. After about 50 shots Avg 701, ES 9 SD 2. About 15 fpe.
Shot cycle is better, I'd actually say pretty darn good. Not sure if it was from clipping the coil or the little bit extra grease.
I'll shoot it this way a bit hoping to see a little more velocity. If I don't I may add more preload to the spring or switch back to Krytox.
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Jolly good, Ron
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Jolly good, Ron
After shooting it some more the velocity increased to Avg 717, ES 9, SD 2. I'll put a few more rounds through it I'd like to see mid 720s to make an even 16fpe. I decided my next move is to clean out everything and go back to Krytox without changing anything in the spring stack. Then I'll know what the Almagard was contributing.
What's interesting is the ES returned to single digits after the spring cut.
Ron, I vote to clip a coil and go back to Krytox, springs are cheap if it doesn't work out. I personally think adding grease is a temporary solution that is not really addressing the root cause of the twang. JMO
Wow look at this. Thanks Jeff, that's exactly where I'll probably wind up ;)
Sometimes I gotta take the long way around to learn anything ::)
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Wow look at this. Thanks Jeff, that's exactly where I'll probably wind up ;)
Sometimes I gotta take the long way around to learn anything ::)
The long way is not a bad way as long as you learn from the journey. May even learn some things you didn't plan to, again that's a good thing. I'm glad you are figuring that gun out.
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Wow look at this. Thanks Jeff, that's exactly where I'll probably wind up ;)
Sometimes I gotta take the long way around to learn anything ::)
The long way is not a bad way as long as you learn from the journey. May even learn some things you didn't plan to, again that's a good thing. I'm glad you are figuring that gun out.
Thanks Jeff. Shot more 10 shot strings this morning. Listed in sequence
Avg 722, ES 14 & SD 4 15.91 fpe
Avg 725, ES 7 & SD 2 16.04 fpe
Avg 719, ES 5 & SD 1 15.78 fpe
Avg 719, ES 7 & SD 2 "
Not sure why the Avg dipped after reaching 725. I was hoping it'd stay there. Perhaps the heat of continuous shooting tightened up the seal fit.
Later...
Not being able to leave well enough alone I completely stripped the gun thinking the sticky red grease is slowing it down. I lightly relubed the parts with Krytox. The velocities initially tanked to the 690s and after a hundred shots it finally crept up to Avg 714, ES 5 & SD 1. Even with a slightly lower velocity the shot cycle feels quicker and cleaner than with the Almagard. I suppose some of the velocity with the Almagard could have been attributed to light dieseling. I typically lose about ten fps switching a gun from petroleum based greases to Krytox. I'm gonna take a break from this gun and check it later. As of now it shoots very nicely, just not quite the power levels I'd like.
Oh, I will tell you this, the gun cocked smoother with the Almagard. I also used the Almagard to grease the trigger contact points. It's nice because it seems to stay put and smooths the trigger's feel.
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More data is always useful. As opposed to collecting data only until it will prove the point one wanted to make.
It sounds like there is more to learn from this HW95 system, Ron. Please keep the info coming.
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I switched the gun back to Almagard. The hint of twang came back with Krytox after a couple hundred shots. The Krytox and Almagard made basically the same power but the gun cocked much smoother and had no twang. I placed the spring on the higher power setting on the Vortek top hat to compensate for using a little more Almagard than before. The gun shoots very well with no twang and makes a hair over my 16 fpe goal. Plus it cocks smooth as butter. It does have hints of light dieseling but seems to not effect the extreme spread or POI. After a hundred shots it's Avg 725, ES 7 & SD 2 on a ten shot string.
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Thanks, Ron
Are you using a fitted guide? Sorry, if that was covered. I get confused reading too many threads...
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Thanks, Ron
Are you using a fitted guide? Sorry, if that was covered. I get confused reading too many threads...
Lol, I get it :) Yes the gun has a Vortek kit with very well fitting guides. I'm pretty impressed with the Almagard so far. Yes it does induce some minor dieseling but that makes up for the power lost by stiction. Overall the gun is smoother to cock and nicer to shoot. Time will tell if it stays that way. The Krytox started off well but the twang resurfaced after a few hundred shots. I've gone through two tins of JSBs conducting this experiment. ::) I will reiterate that the Almagard is some really sticky stuff. It gets on your hands and then all over the place. It doesn't wipe off without a rag dampened with mineral spirits. The fact that it's sticky is a good quality. I'm not sure how temperature sensitive this stuff is. I'll see what happens when winter comes. This R9 is not for hunting so I'm not terribly worried about it.
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Red and Tacky was mentioned in a post a couple years ago here on the GTA or on Tom Gaylord's blog, can't remember which? The comment was that it's very, very similar (to Almagard). I have been using it ever since with great results. I just replaced the OEM spring (used a ARH spring) on my Diana 34 (.22) and it's smooth vibration free and very accurate. No dieseling, not even a wisp of smoke. And it's quiet, just a thump. Also same results on another Diana (ARH) spring) and BSA Polaris (Titan Mainspring). Almaguard probably is better but I'm happy with the results of Red and tacky. We need more tuning posts like this, Thank's Ron for this post.
Bill.
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Red and Tacky was mentioned in a post a couple years ago here on the GTA or on Tom Gaylord's blog, can't remember which? The comment was that it's very, very similar (to Almagard). I have been using it ever since with great results. I just replaced the OEM spring (used a ARH spring) on my Diana 34 (.22) and it's smooth vibration free and very accurate. No dieseling, not even a wisp of smoke. And it's quiet, just a thump. Also same results on another Diana (ARH) spring) and BSA Polaris (Titan Mainspring). Almaguard probably is better but I'm happy with the results of Red and tacky. We need more tuning posts like this, Thank's Ron for this post.
Bill.
Thanks Bill. I'm liking this stuff too. Fwiw the gun is loosening up and is now shooting nicely at 16.3 fpe. No twang yet. And when I say it is dieseling lightly, it's barely detectable. There's no real smoke or smell but there's occasionally a pale orange glow when the barrel is held to the light. Technically it's smoke but it's never enough to see or smell in normal use. I'm looking hard for it. The gun has single digit extreme spreads, so whatever dieseling is happening is slight and consistent. I'm gonna try the Almagard on a couple other rifles next time I need to service them.
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I thought I’d just post this here as I see comments about red n tacky.
I ordered some tune in a tube today to compare to Lucas red n tacky, consistency wise. I used the red n tacky on my grinding and twangy Kral n11, applied through the cocking slot and on all metal to metal contact surfaces and hinges with a syringe. The Lucas red n tacky absolutely muted the twang on this beast within 20 shots. The only thing I hear when cocking is the plastic bearing on the cocking arm guide rubbing against the plastic stock, the spring no longer crunches and it feels like a low powered gas piston during the firing cycle, just a solid thump. I will chrony and compare to results I posted here back in 2017 or so. I’ll also update on a comparison between the red n tacky & tune in a tube once it arrives.
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This had been posted on O.C.'s Junkyard Forum a long while back...
This is Tune in a Tube.
https://products.lelubricants.com/item/all-purpose-chassis-2/almagard-vari-purpose-lubricant-3750-3752/3751-tube
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This had been posted on O.C.'s Junkyard Forum a long while back...
This is Tune in a Tube.
https://products.lelubricants.com/item/all-purpose-chassis-2/almagard-vari-purpose-lubricant-3750-3752/3751-tube
Do you know what the difference is between that and the 3752 is?
Nvm the 51 is nlgi 1 the 52 is nlgi 2.
Rick eustler says there is a summer and winter version, I bet the 51 and 52 correspond to winter and summer blends.
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I'm not sure. I was telling O.C. about it on that forum and someone else posted that link.
I had wonderful good luck with it on the Winnie 1100 I had, at the time.
Still have the tube around here somewhere...
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Very interesting, thank you!
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Thousands of shots later the R9 still shoots beautifully. The velocity with JSB 13.73 crept up to mid 730s with single digit extreme spreads. Still lightly dieseling but accurate as heck. I used the Almagard on a couple other guns since with good results.
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Double checked the gun to ensure my memory was correct. Average 735, ES 6 & SD 2. 16.47 fpe in a tame manageable package.
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Double checked the gun to ensure my memory was correct. Average 735, ES 6 & SD 2. 16.47 fpe in a tame manageable package.
How is all of your rifles doing with the almagard?
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Double checked the gun to ensure my memory was correct. Average 735, ES 6 & SD 2. 16.47 fpe in a tame manageable package.
How is all of your rifles doing with the almagard?
I've since abandoned the Almagard because whatever initial dampening it provided would dissipate after a while. I never had any lubration problems with it or anything else for that matter. My last few spring changes were relubed with the tan grease Vortek used to include in the kits. I still have a ton of it because I've installed a bunch of his kits and he gives you so much more than you should use. The tan grease is a lighter viscosity than the 3752. I don't see the need for the extra viscosity and stickiness of the 3752 if the dampening eventually goes away.
I have to return to my original position that relying on tar or lube for dampening is a poor substitute for properly made guides. It's been my personal experience from experimenting with my own guns and seeing the long term effects of "lube tunes" on guns sent to me that the excess lube eventually overwhelms the piston seals wiping ability. When that happens the lube winds up in the compression chamber. That leads to excessive dieseling and sometimes detonation. Both not good for the gun. Broken, bent springs and burnt out piston seals are often the end result.
HTH
Ron
Ps That's a honker of a smallmouth. I'm sooo jealous!
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Double checked the gun to ensure my memory was correct. Average 735, ES 6 & SD 2. 16.47 fpe in a tame manageable package.
How is all of your rifles doing with the almagard?
I've since abandoned the Almagard because whatever initial dampening it provided would dissipate after a while. I never had any lubration problems with it or anything else for that matter. My last few spring changes were relubed with the tan grease Vortek used to include in the kits. I still have a ton of it because I've installed a bunch of his kits and he gives you so much more than you should use. The tan grease is a lighter viscosity than the 3752. I don't see the need for the extra viscosity and stickiness of the 3752 if the dampening eventually goes away.
I have to return to my original position that relying on tar or lube for dampening is a poor substitute for properly made guides. It's been my personal experience from experimenting with my own guns and seeing the long term effects of "lube tunes" on guns sent to me that the excess lube eventually overwhelms the piston seals wiping ability. When that happens the lube winds up in the compression chamber. That leads to excessive dieseling and sometimes detonation. Both not good for the gun. Broken, bent springs and burnt out piston seals are often the end result.
HTH
Ron
Ps That's a honker of a smallmouth. I'm sooo jealous!
"I have to return to my original position that relying on tar or lube for dampening is a poor substitute for properly made guides."
Exactly my own experience! When I used to do tunes I also received guns that were "slathered internally" with grease like this (to dampen twang/vibration I assume...........
(https://i.imgur.com/IK3OtcF.jpg)
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Double checked the gun to ensure my memory was correct. Average 735, ES 6 & SD 2. 16.47 fpe in a tame manageable package.
How is all of your rifles doing with the almagard?
I've since abandoned the Almagard because whatever initial dampening it provided would dissipate after a while. I never had any lubration problems with it or anything else for that matter. My last few spring changes were relubed with the tan grease Vortek used to include in the kits. I still have a ton of it because I've installed a bunch of his kits and he gives you so much more than you should use. The tan grease is a lighter viscosity than the 3752. I don't see the need for the extra viscosity and stickiness of the 3752 if the dampening eventually goes away.
I have to return to my original position that relying on tar or lube for dampening is a poor substitute for properly made guides. It's been my personal experience from experimenting with my own guns and seeing the long term effects of "lube tunes" on guns sent to me that the excess lube eventually overwhelms the piston seals wiping ability. When that happens the lube winds up in the compression chamber. That leads to excessive dieseling and sometimes detonation. Both not good for the gun. Broken, bent springs and burnt out piston seals are often the end result.
HTH
Ron
Ps That's a honker of a smallmouth. I'm sooo jealous!
Thanks he was 24in he was a big one on one of my painted crankbaits. I caught a 17in yesterday!!
&^^& lol i ordered some of that almaguard to try it out lol it was 30$ a tube.
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Double checked the gun to ensure my memory was correct. Average 735, ES 6 & SD 2. 16.47 fpe in a tame manageable package.
How is all of your rifles doing with the almagard?
I've since abandoned the Almagard because whatever initial dampening it provided would dissipate after a while. I never had any lubration problems with it or anything else for that matter. My last few spring changes were relubed with the tan grease Vortek used to include in the kits. I still have a ton of it because I've installed a bunch of his kits and he gives you so much more than you should use. The tan grease is a lighter viscosity than the 3752. I don't see the need for the extra viscosity and stickiness of the 3752 if the dampening eventually goes away.
I have to return to my original position that relying on tar or lube for dampening is a poor substitute for properly made guides. It's been my personal experience from experimenting with my own guns and seeing the long term effects of "lube tunes" on guns sent to me that the excess lube eventually overwhelms the piston seals wiping ability. When that happens the lube winds up in the compression chamber. That leads to excessive dieseling and sometimes detonation. Both not good for the gun. Broken, bent springs and burnt out piston seals are often the end result.
HTH
Ron
Ps That's a honker of a smallmouth. I'm sooo jealous!
Thanks he was 24in he was a big one on one of my painted crankbaits. I caught a 17in yesterday!!
&^^& lol i ordered some of that almaguard to try it out lol it was 30$ a tube.
Nice! There's nothing like catching big fish on homemade lures.
The Almagard will be fine when used sparingly and not to reduce twang. I believe it also comes in 3751 which I believe is a little thinner viscosity. The 3752 is very sticky stuff wait until you work with it :)
Good luck to you.
Ron