GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Diana Airguns => Topic started by: lizzie on September 29, 2011, 09:26:08 PM
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I came across a Diana 34 with a cheesy-looking black plastic stock today in a pawn shop. ??? I bought it because it was such a good price (29$$), but I've never seen one like this. The stock is black plastic of some type (shiny, not matte), and the manufacture date is 11 95. Has anyone here seen one of these? Was it a cheaper model sold by RWS back around 15 years ago?
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don't know show us some pic's ! :P
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Pix tomorrow. :)
I just got in from a day trip, and it's still in the car. Tomorrow, I plan to take her out for a spin, lol.
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cool I don't remember the 34 with a synthetic stock on it until a few yrs ago but thats not to say they didn't make them! :P
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It was so funny- when I went in asking for pellet rifles, they first showed me a finger-cruncher from the PRC. Then one of the guys picked up the RWS, and at first glance, I thought nah- cheap plastic gun- no sell. He handed it to me, and it was heavy, then I saw the Diana logo, and said SOLD. ;D
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Panther. You stole it!
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They got you peged Liz LOL!!!!! :P
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Seriously? That's a Panther? Were they making them in the mid-90's?
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They got you peged Liz LOL!!!!! :P
Yes- they do. ;D
I'm a regular there now, so they're always happy to see me come in. They know that if there's something that I want, I gladly pay the marked price (their prices are already good), and I won't try to dicker with them. Last time I was there, I picked up a really cool old Japanese pair of binocs. They are in an oldish part of town, and they get some pretty cool old stuff.
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http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/rws.html (http://www.airgunsofarizona.com/rws.html)
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If this one is a Panther, it must be the first model ever made, lol. It doesn't look like the one in the pic, and it's HEAVY (at least it seems so to me).
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I was wondering if it look like the one in the pic's and you could answer that, and seein's how it doesn't will just have to wait until you post some pic's of it to see what ya got! :P
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maybe an old gun and the original owner cracked or broke the wood stock and replaced it with a synthetic one from umarex.
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I can tell you what it looks like sort-of. The stock is shaped like the one on the old 35's, with a smooth gradual curve on the forend of the stock, and the plastic isn't matte, but shiny looking.
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maybe an old gun and the original owner cracked or broke the wood stock and replaced it with a synthetic one from umarex.
Could be. :)
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oh my god, it sounds like you got the deal of the century!
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maybe the date is stamped wrong ; )
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maybe the date is stamped wrong ; )
:D :D :D I'm thinkng maybe the manufacturer is stamped wrong, lol.
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Whadaya know- I googled and found a link to the old GTA with a pic. This is the one:
http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21159.0;attach=17418;image (http://www.gatewaytoairguns.com/airguns/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=21159.0;attach=17418;image)
When I bought it, I thought someone had tried to "refinish" the barrel with a silvery paint, but apparently, it comes that way. Glad I found this out before I started stripping the finish off, lol.
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with a different stock that could be a very nice gun.
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well.....that sure is a.... um...pretty....er....hmmm...HEY! how 'bout them yankees huh?
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well.....that sure is a.... um...pretty....er....hmmm...HEY! how 'bout them yankees huh?
Beauty is only skin-deep. ;)
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hee-hee
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If she's a bad shooter, we'll talk baseball. :)
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If she's a bad shooter, we'll talk baseball. :)
if shes a bad shooter id gladly take it, to work on out in the garage (a nice matte finish, and a longer more ergonomic stock) for double what you paid.
beauty is in the eyes of the beholder
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Yes- agreed. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. To me, the Diana logo is beautiful. :)
If I can't do any decent shooting with her, you have a deal. :)
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If I'm not mistaken, that's a 34N (N as in Nickel for the finish on the metal)
Nathan
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You're right Nathan- I didn't notice it until I took a closer look, that there is an N below mod 34. I've never seen one before, and would never have considered buying it just from glancing at it on the wall. Does the 34N have a decent reputation for shooting?
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I though the 34N had a painted wood stock, not plastic
Nathan
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It's the same rifle as the "standard" model 34, just a different finish on the metal and a painted stock.... so it's not anymore or less accurate than any other M34.
Someone might call the cops on you.......at that price you stole that gun.......
Nathan
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I gotta start checking the pawn shops around here !
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I though the 34N had a painted wood stock, not plastic
Nathan
Maybe there's wood under that black shiny finish, but it sure looks plastic.
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You're right Nathan- there is wood under that shiny black finish. :-[
I also think I see why the gun was so cheap. I think I can see a very faint curve in the barrel, no dings or scratches, but it doesn't look like the barrel is perfectly straight. Where would I buy a new barrel for it? Does RWS sell parts?
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Finding a Nickel finished factory barrel could be a challenge. Call UmarexUSA as they maybe able to source one, but it could be pricey. Is that the barrel droop your seeing? Most springer barrels will have some downward cant.
Nathan
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Actually, since this was such a cheap rifle, I'm thinking of completely revamping it. Since the stock is wood, I may get it custom painted and revamp the barrel/receiver too. It's just a thought that's tumbling around in my head. ;D If I replace the barrel, it won't be "original" anyway, so what the hey? :D
The barrel isn't "drooping" from what I can see. It looks to me like there's a slight upward curve using my level. :)
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you could proably have it re plated cheaper than buying a new barrel :P
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I wouldnt start thinking of all the "fixing/ replacing" type stuff until I had thoroughly done some test shooting. It may be fine as is and worthy of a good tune. Or it may be in need of some intensive TLC. Either way, shoot that thing and let us know.
Richard
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Not to worry guys- I don't do anything fast, except for buying. :D
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lizzie,
Before you get carried away with replacing the barrel, try this link for charliedatuna's barrel tool:
http://charliedatuna.com/Airgun%20Info.htm (http://charliedatuna.com/Airgun%20Info.htm)
Click on "Charlie's barrel tool". This is a Microsoft word document but the pictures and description are very comprehensive and this thing is super easy to buy parts for and build (and use), less than $20 at Lowe's even if you use a 2X6 oak board (which I used) for the base. if you build this, it is probably the most useful tool you can have around for barrel problems. This can easily be used for barrel droop problems also. You don't necessarily have to remove the barrel to use it.
Careful, progressive bending is the key to use this tool. The best ways to assure barrel straightness or bend direction is with an aluminum or steel yardstick or careful and tedious sighting down the bore. At any rate, even if you don't get it perfect, You can most likely get close enough to get a scope comfortably zeroed in with it.
If you don't have the tools or don't want to take on the challenge of building this, heck, I would build it for you and ship it out. What are friends for???
pappa
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Thank you so much pappa- I certainly will. :)
Edit to add:
Wow- what an excellent resource- thanks!
edit again:
So, it looks to me like the eye bolt is used to gradually pull down on the bowed area of a barrel by increasing tension. Am I understanding it correctly? I already have all the stuff on hand to build one, and am thrilled that I may be able to DIY. I can't imagine what RWS would charge for a new barrel. ;D
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lizzie,
You understand perfectly. Just don't get overconfident and go too far with the screw in initial stages. Also, don't forget to get a relatively soft tube such as a piece of garden hose or plastic tubing to slip over the barrel where the eye bolt will be pulling on the barrel so that you don't scar up the metal on the barrel. I use a piece of plastic tubing about 6 inches long that is just a tad larger in diameter than the barrel. Also, this is a good place to practice patience. You may put the barrel in and out of the rig 20 or 30 times the first time you do this. Don't let it get to you. You may only have to do this 1 time in your life and you want to get it right (and be darn proud of what you've accomplished). After you think that everything is OK, you put the scope back on the rifle and take a few practice shots and you may discover that you need just a little more work to finesse the job. Keep at it! I have watched you on GTA and I know you can do it!!!
Also, when you cut the upright barrel holders for the V notches, don't cut the uprights to where the wood grain will be upright with the V notches so that when you put pressure on the V's, the uprights don't split.
If you have any serious questions, you can use the messaging facility on GTA and we can exchange emails if you wish.
Also. I priced out a barrel for an RWS 350 at Umarex and it was $175 without the needed extras such as chamber seal, mounting pins/bolts, etc.
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Thanks pappa for all the pointers and advice. :)
The plastic tubing is a great idea. For the wood grain problem- excellent advice. Do you just turn the nut a turn or two, then let it sit for awhile, then take it out and check it?
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Do you just turn the nut a turn or two, then let it sit for awhile, then take it out and check it?
Yes, you've got it.
One last thought; in using a straight edge to determine the bend, mark, with chalk or something that will not leave a permanent mark, the location on the barrel where the deepest part of the bend appears. This is where you should get the closest, if not right on, with the eye bolt when you start to turn the nut. If we were talking about repairing barrel droop, the halfway point is optimum.