GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Crosman Airguns => Topic started by: Ronno6 on May 23, 2021, 12:08:05 AM
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What tools/methods do y'all use to open up Crocman pumper valves??
The nose cone barely has any material on either side of the O-ring groove to hold on to.......
I been wrapping a piece of emery cloth around it and gripping with Vise Grips,
but that still gouges the brass and I gotta smooth with a file.......
Must be a better way.
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put the side with no transfer port in the lathe chuck , then take a steel dowel the same size as the transfer port and use that for leverage to turn the other end
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Hi Ron, emery cloth can work in a Jacobs chuck, but,,, if you're using a curved jaw vice grip, then thick leather is the best padding that I've found.
Do you have an old belt? Cut some strips for padding the jaws, and then you can clamp down hard. It won't move.
I also use Rob's suggestion... a close fit dowel in the valve port. That gives you some torque.
Wyo
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If I understand you, isn’t there a bolt that holds the valve in place in the tube? So use the bolt, holding the valve in a vise.
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My old pumpmaster/powermaster pump valves have red loctite from the factory. A little heat will soften it up and the two halves should come right apart with minimum effort. Don't get it to hot, I'm not sure the valve stem could handle getting to hot.
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I will try the lathe chuck suggestion....sounds good..but there is only 1/32" or so on either side of the O-ring groove to grip...
I typically am working on 2100/2200/666 valves...
Maybe I can come up with an old belt.
My Vise Grips have curved jaws..
A 1/4" drill shank fits the TP well.
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I would be careful using the TP. I had a valve that would not have responded to this method - it would have wrecked the TP.
Vise grips are fine - minor exterior damage while bothersome will not affect function.
See attached for another method.
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Get a butane torch and heat up where it screws on to soften the thread lock.
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I use heat and 2 ER40 collets to grip the valve in my lathe.
You can also use a slotted piece of 5/8" pump tube clamped in a 3/4" drill chuck or lathe.
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Get a butane torch and heat up where it screws on to soften the thread lock.
I've only had one Crosman valve with thread lock - it was a surprise for me.
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All I use is electrical tape, or even painters tape.
Make sure you wrap it several times.
Once you have wrapped both ends the valve is protected from damage and you can use vice grips, or other pliars to open the valve.
Then just remove the tape.
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Get a butane torch and heat up where it screws on to soften the thread lock.
I've only had one Crosman valve with thread lock - it was a surprise for me.
I've come across a couple. :o
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Get a butane torch and heat up where it screws on to soften the thread lock.
I've only had one Crosman valve with thread lock - it was a surprise for me.
I've come across a couple. :o
So far I have not seen any thread locker on a Crosman valve, but the oldest one rebuilt was a 1966.
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There is some kind of gunk on the threads, but it is kinda whitish...........
I always gotta clean it outa the threads prior to reassembly.
The 1/4" bit shank is a pretty good fit in the TP and I have never experienced any issues using that method.
There just isn't much meat to grab onto on the nose.......just a skinny little ring ahead of and behind the pump tube O-ring....
Even with the emery cloth those flanges get dinged up. I know that won't cause a functional issue, just hate to spend time cleaning them up with a file......
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Not sure but could 2 flats be cut into the narrow area, enough to get an adjustable wrench to grab, with out causing sealing issues ?