GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => Projectiles => Topic started by: lorka42 on April 29, 2021, 05:14:29 AM
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I've decided that I had way too much free time and decided to learn casting slugs for my big bores, I have a lee 4-20 pot, and a couple molds, I'd like to find a sub $200 way to size my slugs, will a Lee Precision Single Stage Press Challenger Breech Lock 90588 and a LEE PRECISION 90188 .510" Diameter Bullet Lube and Sizing Die Kit work together ? if not, what would? I cannot find any .510 molds, all I can find is .512, without waiting two months to get ...also, do I need to size a .512 for a Piledriver? will also be getting molds for .457 and .357 which are pretty readily available. any beginner tips will be greatly appreciated.
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I can answer a couple of your questions. I've sized thousands of bullets with the exact setup you listed.
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Chuck I just ordered a push pin for .357 myself, I have the NOE Push Through Size Die Body myself and I've got a couple of slug molds coming for my Challenger 357 that both need to be resized, I'll be using pure lead for my castings, from what I've heard is the pure lead is the best for airgun slugs, the 2 body bushings that I need are on their way as well. This is new to me as well but I've sized .22 & .25 both and use a Lee Hand Press myself but haven't gone bigger than 25 cal.
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If you're planning to do multiple calibers, the NOE sizing system will be cheaper in the long run. You buy one die body and add the size bushings you need.
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If you're planning to do multiple calibers, the NOE sizing system will be cheaper in the long run. You buy one die body and add the size bushings you need.
what about a press for the noe dies? looking for @$100 range?
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Also I have no idea what exactly I will need, and little knowledge of the nomenclature, please explain like I was a 5 year old for best results :D
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The NOE die body will work with the Lee press.
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look in the casting gate above. you'll find tons of info. here are a few of mine:
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=173652.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=173652.0)
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=172055.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=172055.0)
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Real new air gunner here but a long time firearm bullet caster. Lee and NOE push through sizing dies have a standard 7/8-14 thread. Most (99%) of presses available today use a standard 7/8-14 thread for mounting dies, so yep they will work together. I have about ten Lee push through sizing die kits and some are "customized" the diameter. I have several including .356", .358" and .359" for my 38 Specials, 357 Magnums and 9mm pistols, depending on groove diameter of each gun's barrel. Pretty straight forward use, I'd suggest a lube before pushing a pellet/bullet through and Lee recommends alox. I have used several lubes for sizing from Pam to bag balm, mink oil boot dressing cream and lanoline. Lube helps stop galling in the die. Not much is needed, just a film...
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Advice from a new caster who is also rather hard-headed and not the most willing student.....
At minimum add a $20 hot plate and a $25-50 immersion thermometer to your setup. Prior to having an immersion thermometer I was relying on an infrared thermometer, which had difficulty reading the molten lead's temp....
Come to find out I was running my pot a couple hundred degrees too hot.
I was running my pot way too hot and my molds too cool. Amazingly the results weren't too bad, just a bit unpredictable at times.
Now I find myself melting the same lead over and over much less frequently.
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A lot of good info shared by many knowledgeable members so far who also helped me out in my beginnings.
Here is a helpful link in regards to cleaning and handling lead in the Lee 4-20 pot, which I also use along with the press you have mentioned. There is mention of "pressure pouring" which is different than "gravity pouring" from the spout of the Lee 4-20, but the process of cleaning the lead is the same for this pot. There are differences also between open dipping pots and our gravity fed pots in how you would go about the fluxing/cleaning of the lead explained well by one of the greats here worth sharing.
I will add I do enjoy using Frankford Arsenal Cleancast Lead Flux (Borax) as it is clean and convenient, but do know sawdust is the best out there to use. But, being I use a gravity fed downspout type pot, I can run into spout clogs during casting. Not so in a dip pot setup.
Pressure Bottom Pouring with a Lee Pot - Airguns & Guns Forum (gatewaytoairguns.org) (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=154047.msg155709759#msg155709759)
Here is another link that I stand by, but is only my opinion from experience when casting larger diameter projectiles. I will add that the little extra tin added helps strengthen the larger slugs when handling and storing quantities in a confined space for transport and through the choke. Not a requirement, just good thoughts (IMO) that does not interfere with the ultimate results, POI. There is still plenty of expansion as well.
NOE .357 pellet mold - Airguns & Guns Forum (gatewaytoairguns.org) (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=185806.msg156146963#msg156146963)
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Advice from a new caster who is also rather hard-headed and not the most willing student.....
At minimum add a $20 hot plate and a $25-50 immersion thermometer to your setup. Prior to having an immersion thermometer I was relying on an infrared thermometer, which had difficulty reading the molten lead's temp....
Come to find out I was running my pot a couple hundred degrees too hot.
I was running my pot way too hot and my molds too cool. Amazingly the results weren't too bad, just a bit unpredictable at times.
Now I find myself melting the same lead over and over much less frequently.
I have a temperature controller I'm going to set up on my lee 4-20 pot, to take some of the guesswork out of the equation. Yeah infrared thermometers don't read well on a reflective surface. I've been practicing with a roundball mold I got, finding the mold+pot temps that produce the shiney bullets before I start with the slugs and hollowpoints.
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Thanks all for the helpful information, this will save me some knowledge bumps, for sure!
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I have 2 lee 10 pound bottom pour pots. I run my dial at 7 when I'm heating up a full pot, but I cut it back between 4-5 for casting. I've never used a thermometer, but I can see where it might be useful to a new caster. I preheat my molds on a hot plate. If you know you have clean ingots, sawdust or borax in the casting pot isn't necessary. I use candle wax or beeswax instead. It will usually flare up but once it dies out it forms a film over the lead and keeps it from oxidizing while you cast.
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I have 2 lee 10 pound bottom pour pots. I run my dial at 7 when I'm heating up a full pot, but I cut it back between 4-5 for casting. I've never used a thermometer, but I can see where it might be useful to a new caster. I preheat my molds on a hot plate. If you know you have clean ingots, sawdust or borax in the casting pot isn't necessary. I use candle wax or beeswax instead. It will usually flare up but once it dies out it forms a film over the lead and keeps it from oxidizing while you cast.
Thanks for the info!