GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Daisy Airguns => Topic started by: Van on March 30, 2021, 10:30:55 PM
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I read some threads about powering up Red Riders and Bucks with Cobalt327 springs from Ebay. So needing a project, I got a $17 Buck at Walmart as I like the shorter barrel. Got the power spring, metal lever and larger 7/16" ID air tube from Ebay. The stock gun barely dents a steel vegetable can at 260fps. They are way under the advertised FPS. After installing the parts it goes through one side and splits the other at 348fps and much flatter shooting. I think it may go up some as it breaks in the seals. The BB is trapped inside the can. This was at distance of about 15- 20 feet. It's a fun gun to plink with now so I cut out a temporary stock from some unknown craft wood in adult size. I plan on a walnut stock later. The shot tubes are very accurate as they are seamless tubes now. I was impressed how much fun BBs can be at a decent power level. A friend gave me a Daisy 1894, a great looking gun, but I could never get that kind of thump with the tapered compression tube. Now if I could just come up with a metal trigger. (http://)
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most of the parts from a Red Ryder will exchange with the Buck
the “frame”, barrel, buttstock, cocking lever wont swap over.
But now that Ive said that, I wonder if you could swap the buttstock and lever.... Ill have to try that tomorrow
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The Red Rider butt stock and lever will swap over to the Buck. It's a longer stock but still a bit shorter than the adult version Red Rider. The buck straight lever is not metal and the Red Rider curved one is metal. You can swap back and forth as long as the levers go with their original stock.
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been all over the inside and outside of both guns many times,
NEVER once did I think to swap the RR stock and lever on the Buck.....
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I love the little guns, I still have my org. 1963 Daisy model 102-36
Yes my very first gun!
Very good condition, and still a good shooter, shoots at 275+ FPS
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I first tried shimming the spring with a 5/8'' piece of aluminum tube with a washer behind it and drilled the air tube out to 7/64" to bring up the power as I saw on one thread. It worked close to the power of a custom spring but was not as smooth cocking as I wanted. The Cobalt spring was much smoother. Also removed the saw tooth anti beartrap bar, for less cocking noise, and made the spring compressing fork shown below that you push through the back of the receiver to relieve pressure on the spring retainer bar so it can be removed. The metal forks are from square shaped kabab skewers.(http://)
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The Buck worked out so well I got a Red Rider to play with too. With the same power spring and 7/64 ID drilled out air tube it is at 365FPS at the muzzle. It may be faster because of the longer barrel. The buttstock is an adult length one I made from scrap wood and the front stock is a refinished one that came on the gun. (http://)
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The Buck worked out so well I got a Red Rider to play with too. With the same power spring and 7/64 ID drilled out air tube it is at 365FPS at the muzzle. It may be faster because of the longer barrel. The buttstock is an adult length one I made from scrap wood and the front stock is a refinished one that came on the gun. (http://)
Very nice work!
It is so much easier to chang the springs when you have the spring fork.
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I was messing around with a RedRider I picked up used and abused for 5 bucks.
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The Buck worked out so well I got a Red Rider to play with too. With the same power spring and 7/64 ID drilled out air tube it is at 365FPS at the muzzle. It may be faster because of the longer barrel. The buttstock is an adult length one I made from scrap wood and the front stock is a refinished one that came on the gun. (http://)
Just wanted to thank you for trying the spring and air tube, and I'm glad they have worked well for you. You're right about the barrel length adding the velocity. We did some testing and found that extra barrel length helped, at least up to a point. One gun hinz57 concocted had 3 model 499B shot tubed grafted together, and it was a thumper but that much length made the gun unwieldy.
But the main reason for my post is to tell you how cool the stock turned out! It looks as good as a factory job and the finish is a LOT better than they're using on the new Daisys. The added LOP is bound to make it even more fun to shoot. So great job on all of it!!
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I was messing around with a RedRider I picked up used and abused for 5 bucks.
Unless I miss my guess, you have a version that was made for about one year- 2001. The LOT. NO. will likely read xx01 xxxxx. The first 2 x's are the month, "01" is the year, 2001, and the last five are the production sequence.
What I am calling a 'version' is really just a running change that was made. What makes your gun unusual is that it has a flat steel "staple" that the saddle ring attaches to, and the holes in the receiver for the staple are verticle. Before this, the holes were horizontal and these guns did not have an anti-beartrap mechanism. Your gun has the anti-beartrap. After your version, the staple became a round plastic piece, and it is still used to this day.
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Really nice work, I have been trying to work on my wood skills.
It will be awhile before I can call my work good.
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Thanks Mark, Seeing your posts on forums gave me the idea to do some Red Rider projects. Thanks for making the HP Spring/ Air Tube kit available on Ebay. I love the curly maple one you have on yours, that I saw on a post, and plan to find some of that or fancy walnut to do one later. The one pictured was a trial project on some white wood until I find some fancy wood on next visit to Woodcraft Store. The finish is Honey Maple stain and True Oil. I saw some of your post about using Daisy 499 parts in a Red Rider that were very interesting. Hope you can post more about that. That spring kit really makes firing lots of BBs at tin cans more fun.
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I was messing around with a RedRider I picked up used and abused for 5 bucks.
Unless I miss my guess, you have a version that was made for about one year- 2001. The LOT. NO. will likely read xx01 xxxxx. The first 2 x's are the month, "01" is the year, 2001, and the last five are the production sequence.
What I am calling a 'version' is really just a running change that was made. What makes your gun unusual is that it has a flat steel "staple" that the saddle ring attaches to, and the holes in the receiver for the staple are verticle. Before this, the holes were horizontal and these guns did not have an anti-beartrap mechanism. Your gun has the anti-beartrap. After your version, the staple became a round plastic piece, and it is still used to this day.
You know your stuff, It was made September of 2001. I made it a tribute gun for 911. I gifted it to my Brother in law.
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Since I used the stock I did for the Buck on the Red Rider the Buck needed an adult size stock of it's own. Did not have any plans for today so I made one for it. Just some laminated premium pine wood finished natural. I like the contrasting colors wood to metal. This is a fun tin can plinking gun at about 350fps instead of 260fps as it was before the spring change. (http://)
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I'm not just blowing smoke here- that stock looks outstanding! You must have some woodworking in your background.
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I'm not just blowing smoke here- that stock looks outstanding! You must have some woodworking in your background.
Thanks Mark, I have been in the wood working hobby since high school wood shop. Mainly building custom Long Rifles and Plains Rifles for the past 30 years or so. Then got back into air guns about 10 years ago. On these I just copied the original style and extended the length of pull. It helps to have the tools I collected over many years.
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I first tried shimming the spring with a 5/8'' piece of aluminum tube with a washer behind it and drilled the air tube out to 7/64" to bring up the power as I saw on one thread. It worked close to the power of a custom spring but was not as smooth cocking as I wanted. The Cobalt spring was much smoother. Also removed the saw tooth anti beartrap bar, for less cocking noise, and made the spring compressing fork shown below that you push through the back of the receiver to relieve pressure on the spring retainer bar so it can be removed. The metal forks are from square shaped kabab skewers.(http://)
Did you make the spring compressor?
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That's a good tool, Van. Would you happen to know the dimensions of the legs?
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That's a good tool, Van. Would you happen to know the dimensions of the legs?
Almost looks like the old factory tool
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another Buck
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That's a good tool, Van. Would you happen to know the dimensions of the legs?
The tool I made from a dowel and square kabab skewers placed about 1/2" ID between the legs. That lets it spread apart to contact the spring. I made it a bit too long so I taped a dowel inside the legs for strength and to shorten to about 3" length. I could hace just shortened the legs. I helps to use a small round file to make a concave surface on the end of the legs to grip the spring. I put the muzzle end on a solid wall then grip the tool and press with one hand while pulling out the spring lock bar with the other. I gave the legs a bend inward at front to help contact the spring end. (http://)
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Well designed. The slight bend to the legs does resemble the Daisy factory tool.
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Well designed. The slight bend to the legs does resemble the Daisy factory tool.
The legs are just under 1/8" square. About .120"
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And, here's my new Daisy Buck bench rest competition lever action
BB gun!
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^ Now that's a BUCK ^
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Sometimes I just modify BB guns for the fun of it.
The Grandkids get a kick out of the tatical look 8)
Not that it matters on a smoothbore 285 fps monster ;D
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The rubber bands are there to hold the allen wrench that is needed to adjust windage and elevation screws on the optic.