GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => German AirGun Gate => Topic started by: byhsu on February 24, 2021, 06:18:22 PM
-
Just saw this at Walmart.
Says is for ball & roller Bearings, chassis points, bushings, ball joints, U-Joints. Contains Rust and Oxidation inhibitors and extreme pressure additives for long lubrication life.
Would this be good for Lubing a springer rifle?
-
Only 3% Moly, seems a bit light.
-
It's not like the typical moly paste found at ARH for example. Moly paste usually have 65-70% molybdenum in its composition, the SuperTech grease only 0.1 to 1% content. Here you can see the MSDS (material safety data sheet): https://www.msdsdigital.com/super-tech-moly-lithium-grease-msds (https://www.msdsdigital.com/super-tech-moly-lithium-grease-msds) . Here's a screen shot of the composition:
-
I have been using that where regular lithium grease is recommended, such as the piston rods on my shoebox compressor, and the piston seal on a ssp P-17 air pistol, both since new. As far as a piston on a break barrel I'll pass.
-
Hey Pablo,
Look no further than:
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm (https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm)
-
Hey Pablo,
Look no further than:
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm (https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm)
Thank You, that looks like a good price. but the page has no button to add to cart, at least not on the my page when I click your link.
-
Jim Macarri is in the GTA Mall -
Molly is listed under the lubricant section
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm (https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm)
-
Just saw this at Walmart.
Says is for ball & roller Bearings, chassis points, bushings, ball joints, U-Joints. Contains Rust and Oxidation inhibitors and extreme pressure additives for long lubrication life.
Would this be good for Lubing a springer rifle?
Don't know about that brand but this msds shows that it's Petroleum distillates, solvent-refined heavy paraffinic and probably susceptible to dieseling.
https://www.msdsdigital.com/system/files/Super%20Tech%20Moly-Lithium%20Grease.pdf (https://www.msdsdigital.com/system/files/Super%20Tech%20Moly-Lithium%20Grease.pdf)
Also
HANDLING AND STORAGE
Handling Precautions:Mildly irritating material. Avoid unnecessary exposure.Storage Conditions:Store in a cooldry ventilated location. Isolate from incompatible materials and conditions. Keep container(s) closed. Do not expose to extreme temperatures or flames
-
I know some don't like the old Dino lubes, but they have been tried and trued over the yrs, but they need to be applied correctly just like anything else, if done so u will have yrs of enjoyment from ur air rifle ;)
-
Two schools of thought (Krytox vs Dino) amongst experienced springer tuners it seems. Krytox (or Ultimox) vs Moly paste is what concerns me. Almost nothing has been discussed in this thread concerning the removal of Krytox in a springer after it has been properly applied.
I would also like to point out there are more than a few professional tuners who are GTA members that do not advocate using Krytox for various reasons.
-
Yes, But that "Super Tech" is not even good Dino stuff! >:(
-Y
-
I had this discussion with OC yrs ago when the new magic Krytox was being use in air rifles, and its effects on metal, I have never used it and probably never will! I do not have enough education on the subject because I have not really looked into the properties of what this type of lubes long term effects maybe for this type of use? Just my personal thinking here but I'm not even interested in this product to tell you the truth, I'm not going to try to reinvent the wheel, I see no need to use anything other then the tried and trued methods that already exist, u may call me stubborn or old school if u want! Krytox my have its use in some applications in air guns, but as another member has mentioned who has used and has Dino and Krytox in use in his rifles, see's no need to convert them all to Krytox, I'm not knocking anyone who wants to use Krytox, its ur rifle, if u think Krytox is of more benefit for ur usage try it! these are my uneducated opinions and we all know about opinions! But if I personally thought Krytox had any major advantage over ole Barny the Dinosaur I would be using it! ;D
-
Also I have tried other lubes in the past, like the Super Tech brands and LUCUS, they will cause u more issues then ur effort to use them! not saying u can't use them in barrel fork areas, but inside the the power plant no! those lubes are not designed for that type of use, incase someone doesn't know? ur air gun power plant works like a Diesel engine, as the piston go's forward it generates heat! lubes not designed to be in there or have a low flash point will detonate or cause bad Dieseling, most of these types of lubes are also to thin and will migrate and get in front of ur piston seal and will Diesel all the time and will burn up ur piston seal in pretty short order! ::)
-
Also I have tried other lubes in the past, like the Super Tech brands and LUCUS, they will cause u more issues then ur effort to use them! not saying u can't use them in barrel fork areas, but inside the the power plant no! those lubes are not designed for that type of use, incase someone doesn't know? ur air gun power plant works like a Diesel engine, as the piston go's forward it generates heat! lubes not designed to be in there or have a low flash point will detonate or cause bad Dieseling, most of these types of lubes are also to thin and will migrate and get in front of ur piston seal and will Diesel all the time and will burn up ur piston seal in pretty short order! ::)
"burn up ur piston seal in pretty short order"
LOL, like this..........
(https://i.imgur.com/DrDlzM2.png)(https://i.imgur.com/LpfZXCi.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/hlHUIlH.png)(https://i.imgur.com/pXwwwTx.jpg)
-
Two schools of thought (Krytox vs Dino) amongst experienced springer tuners it seems. Krytox (or Ultimox) vs Moly paste is what concerns me. Almost nothing has been discussed in this thread concerning the removal of Krytox in a springer after it has been properly applied.
I would also like to point out there are more than a few professional tuners who are GTA members that do not advocate using Krytox for various reasons.
Artie.- Just a note: Krytox is NOT the same as Ultimox.
I have found Krytox to be hygroscopic (it attracts and retains water), therefore not being as consistent and resistant over extended periods of time. Ultimox, on the other hand is not.
ANY lube is removeable. Even the diffused moly. It just takes time and effort to do it right.
IF you are going from petro-based lubes, you can give a good cleaning with lacquer thinner, and then another with Xylol.
IF you are going from Teflon to Petro, then clean with Thinner and then Acetone.
Of course, take all the needed precautions.
HTH
HM
-
Two schools of thought (Krytox vs Dino) amongst experienced springer tuners it seems. Krytox (or Ultimox) vs Moly paste is what concerns me. Almost nothing has been discussed in this thread concerning the removal of Krytox in a springer after it has been properly applied.
I would also like to point out there are more than a few professional tuners who are GTA members that do not advocate using Krytox for various reasons.
Artie.- Just a note: Krytox is NOT the same as Ultimox.
I have found Krytox to be hygroscopic (it attracts and retains water), therefore not being as consistent and resistant over extended periods of time. Ultimox, on the other hand is not.
ANY lube is removeable. Even the diffused moly. It just takes time and effort to do it right.
IF you are going from petro-based lubes, you can give a good cleaning with lacquer thinner, and then another with Xylol.
IF you are going from Teflon to Petro, then clean with Thinner and then Acetone.
Of course, take all the needed precautions.
HTH
HM
http://www.microlubrol.com/MicroLubrol-Ultimox-226-Perfluoropolyether-PFPE-PTFE-Grease-20-g.aspx (http://www.microlubrol.com/MicroLubrol-Ultimox-226-Perfluoropolyether-PFPE-PTFE-Grease-20-g.aspx)
Hummmm.....from the above..........
"THE PERFECT LUBRICANT FOR MANY APPLICATIONS:
EXACTLY LIKE GPL type grease, MicroLubrol™ ULTIMOX 226 is an ultra-high quality PFPE/PTFE grease formulated with fully synthetic highly fluorinated perfluoropolyether oil and micronized polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). It is clean white in color and has a National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) #2 light to medium, extremely smooth consistency exactly like other high-performance PFPE/PTFE greases like GPL type greases."
and
"MicroLubrol™ ULTIMOX™ 226 PERFORMS AS WELL AS GPL-226, GPL-205 and GPL-206 for automotive applications. MicroLubrol ULTIMOX 226 is formulated with fully synthetic highly fluorinated perfluoropolyether oil and micronized polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) just like GPL-226, GPL-205 and GPL-206 greases. ULTIMOX™ 226 resists the harshest environments and conditions: heat, cold, ice, snow, rain, water washout, cleaners, acids, caustics, steam and automotive chemicals. In addition, the consistency of ULTIMOX™ 226 is National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) #2 which is the SAME as GPL-205 and GPL-206, making ULTIMOX™ 226 a perfect drop-in replacement for GPL-205 and GPL-206 in automotive applications."
Anywhoo....Ultimox seems to simply be a rebranded Krytox GPL226, perhaps licensed by Dupont.
It seems like a cheaper version of Krytox GPL226 and I did use it for a while but preferred the performance of Plain Jane Krytox GPL205 without the "wear & corrosion additive". LOL....I also used Krytox GPL225 a while back. The third digit of the number xx6 denotes the viscosity of the grease and I personally prefer the lighter xx5 version...........
(https://i.imgur.com/7x9Dx1z.png)
Before switching from Krytox GPL225 to the Plain Jane Krytox GPL 205 I wanted to see how a couple bare nails would react to a soaking of strong salt water. I stripped both nails of any oil, left one nail bare and the other lightly lubed with Krytox GPL205, wrapped both with a paper towel and then soaked the paper towel with the salt water. Here is the result after two days.........
(https://i.imgur.com/sQgYKe4.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/T8QbxRZ.jpg)
Since I don't wash out my springers with a strong salt water solution I felt that the plain GPL205 was more than adequate at preventing corrosion under atmospheric conditions and after a few years of use I have no issues.
Anywhoo.....if Krytox "attracts moisture" then I don't see how it can be recommended for bearings and such.......
https://www.krytox.com/en/products (https://www.krytox.com/en/products)
(https://i.imgur.com/zh9AxkE.png)
-
NCed,
I am surprised that the GPL 205 allowed that much rust to develop. :-[
-Y
-
I am new to spring powered air rifle.I used lithium and it killed the seal.I use lithium for my pistols & it's great
-
NCed,
I am surprised that the GPL 205 allowed that much rust to develop. :-[
-Y
LOL....after soaking wet for two days in a strong salt water solution I'm very pleased with the result considering the fact that there was only a thin coating of Krytox to begin with. As mentioned, since I don't wipe the "innerds" of my springers with salt water for two days the test proved (to me) that corrosion with my normal use wasn't an issue.
-
http://www.microlubrol.com/MicroLubrol-Ultimox-226-Perfluoropolyether-PFPE-PTFE-Grease-20-g.aspx (http://www.microlubrol.com/MicroLubrol-Ultimox-226-Perfluoropolyether-PFPE-PTFE-Grease-20-g.aspx)
Hummmm.....from the above..........
"THE PERFECT LUBRICANT FOR MANY APPLICATIONS:
EXACTLY LIKE GPL type grease, MicroLubrol™ ULTIMOX 226 is an ultra-high quality PFPE/PTFE grease formulated with fully synthetic highly fluorinated perfluoropolyether oil and micronized polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE). It is clean white in color and has a National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) #2 light to medium, extremely smooth consistency exactly like other high-performance PFPE/PTFE greases like GPL type greases."
and
"MicroLubrol™ ULTIMOX™ 226 PERFORMS AS WELL AS GPL-226, GPL-205 and GPL-206 for automotive applications. MicroLubrol ULTIMOX 226 is formulated with fully synthetic highly fluorinated perfluoropolyether oil and micronized polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) just like GPL-226, GPL-205 and GPL-206 greases. ULTIMOX™ 226 resists the harshest environments and conditions: heat, cold, ice, snow, rain, water washout, cleaners, acids, caustics, steam and automotive chemicals. In addition, the consistency of ULTIMOX™ 226 is National Lubricating Grease Institute (NLGI) #2 which is the SAME as GPL-205 and GPL-206, making ULTIMOX™ 226 a perfect drop-in replacement for GPL-205 and GPL-206 in automotive applications."
Anywhoo....Ultimox seems to simply be a rebranded Krytox GPL226, perhaps licensed by Dupont.
It seems like a cheaper version of Krytox GPL226 and I did use it for a while but preferred the performance of Plain Jane Krytox GPL205 without the "wear & corrosion additive". LOL....I also used Krytox GPL225 a while back. The third digit of the number xx6 denotes the viscosity of the grease and I personally prefer the lighter xx5 version...........
(https://i.imgur.com/7x9Dx1z.png)
Before switching from Krytox GPL225 to the Plain Jane Krytox GPL 205 I wanted to see how a couple bare nails would react to a soaking of strong salt water. I stripped both nails of any oil, left one nail bare and the other lightly lubed with Krytox GPL205, wrapped both with a paper towel and then soaked the paper towel with the salt water. Here is the result after two days.........
(https://i.imgur.com/sQgYKe4.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/T8QbxRZ.jpg)
Since I don't wash out my springers with a strong salt water solution I felt that the plain GPL205 was more than adequate at preventing corrosion under atmospheric conditions and after a few years of use I have no issues.
Anywhoo.....if Krytox "attracts moisture" then I don't see how it can be recommended for bearings and such.......
https://www.krytox.com/en/products (https://www.krytox.com/en/products)
(https://i.imgur.com/zh9AxkE.png)
Ed;
One thing is what lubricants do when under "normal" operating conditions, and another is what happens inside a spring-piston airgun at the temperatures and pressures they reach.
IF YOU want/choose to think that things "stay the same" after being inside a spring-piston compression chamber through several thousand shots, be my guest. Stick to factory stats and specs.
I am relaying here what a group of experienced piston airgun experimenters found after two years of testing (National champions and WFTF Top 3 placer among them).
You do what is best for you.
I will not argue with reality as I find it to be from first hand experiences.
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
-
I really never considered the HW piston guns I shoot are especially stressful considering that the compression pressures are only a couple thousand PSI (I've worked with 5,000 psi hydraulic systems) and that such pressure only exists for a few milliseconds before the pellet pops the leade. During the piston travel under compression there is relatively small amount of side loading on the piston contrary to high speed bearings in rotating equipment. LOL.....the only "side loading" of a piston is when it's being cocked where the cocking shoe is placing LOW SPEED pressure on the rear of the piston skirt.
-
God I really enjoyed this thread.. so much passion. kind of like my thingy is bigger than your thingy !! LOL
Guys it not rocket xcience.. Moly works and has for a lonnnnnng time. J.M moly rocks and that is all you have to know.. well it helps to know where to put it..... LOL
anyway !!
kindly
ron
-
God I really enjoyed this thread.. so much passion. kind of like my thingy is bigger than your thingy !! LOL
Guys it not rocket xcience.. Moly works and has for a lonnnnnng time. J.M moly rocks and that is all you have to know.. well it helps to know where to put it..... LOL
anyway !!
kindly
ron
LOL....you're exactly correct and I do need to apologize for my snarky "mine is bigger than yours style comment" so I deleted that line from my previous comment.
You're also correct that "molly bearing dinosaur grease" lubes have been used successfully in springers for decades IF properly applied and that is what I started with years ago, however I found that Krytox works better for my purposes.
-
Well put ED, ;D
-
Once again, how far do you want to go!
All FT springer shooters that I know of are concerned about sun/heat POI shift. Whether this is in the compression tube, scope tube. does not matter. How they deal with it is the variable...... :-\
-Y
-
I really never considered the HW piston guns I shoot are especially stressful considering that the compression pressures are only a couple thousand PSI (I've worked with 5,000 psi hydraulic systems) and that such pressure only exists for a few milliseconds before the pellet pops the leade. During the piston travel under compression there is relatively small amount of side loading on the piston contrary to high speed bearings in rotating equipment. LOL.....the only "side loading" of a piston is when it's being cocked where the cocking shoe is placing LOW SPEED pressure on the rear of the piston skirt.
Ed;
I find you curiously inconsistent.
On one hand we have broken scopes, burned seals, dieseling/smoking guns, pellets deformed by shooting to the point of loosing the skirt, screws that loosen " by themselves", scopes that creep, etc, etc, etc. and you have shown these effects yourself in your guns a number of times.
And you say the mid-high powered spring piston airgun is not an "especially stressful" device?
To get to the "not especially stressful" region, you would need to go down to the 5.5 ft-lbs level and use the gun as a blow gun, not a "pop gun" and, even less, a "diesel gun". Like the old Match guns of half a century ago.
Keep well, healthy and sane
HM
-
I really never considered the HW piston guns I shoot are especially stressful considering that the compression pressures are only a couple thousand PSI (I've worked with 5,000 psi hydraulic systems) and that such pressure only exists for a few milliseconds before the pellet pops the leade. During the piston travel under compression there is relatively small amount of side loading on the piston contrary to high speed bearings in rotating equipment. LOL.....the only "side loading" of a piston is when it's being cocked where the cocking shoe is placing LOW SPEED pressure on the rear of the piston skirt.
Ed;
I find you curiously inconsistent.
On one hand we have broken scopes, burned seals, dieseling/smoking guns, pellets deformed by shooting to the point of loosing the skirt, screws that loosen " by themselves", scopes that creep, etc, etc, etc. and you have shown these effects yourself in your guns a number of times.
And you say the mid-high powered spring piston airgun is not an "especially stressful" device?
To get to the "not especially stressful" region, you would need to go down to the 5.5 ft-lbs level and use the gun as a blow gun, not a "pop gun" and, even less, a "diesel gun". Like the old Match guns of half a century ago.
Keep well, healthy and sane
HM
OK, just for entertainment purposes,
I thought the discussion was between the effectiveness of molly bearing petro based lubes, Dupont Krytox, and your claim that Ultimox is different that Krytox even though this is a statement directly from the Ultimox site "MicroLubrol ULTIMOX 226 is formulated with fully synthetic highly fluorinated perfluoropolyether oil and micronized polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) just like GPL-226, GPL-205 and GPL-206 greases." I'm of the personal opinion that any of the mentioned lubes are adequate for maintaining lube between the sliding parts of a springer with proper application, however improper application of molly bearing lubes CAN damage springer internals due to detonation. On the other hand neither Ultimox or Krytox will diesel and both are more forgiving with less than proper application.
Concerning "especially stressful", I thought it would be obvious that I was considering pressures at the lube boundary, not issues concerning forces of inertia on various components so lets take these one at a time. I even mentioned that the internal pressures in front of a piston seal is only a couple thousand PSI (if that much) and while such pressure is enough to cause petro based lubes to diesel (hense burnt piston seals), this pressure doesn't have much to do with the film of lube on the piston sides.
"On one hand we have broken scopes"
Yep, however that is a function of the "two way inertia" caused by the piston, not high stress on the lubed surfaces. You solve this issue by buying a spring loaded sliding mount and then modifying it so it remains accurate. Still, this has no bearing on the internal loading of the lubed sliding surfaces.
"dieseling/smoking guns,"
LOL....even my 8fpe HW35 dieseled, especially when it had the initial oil soaked leather seal where Kardew claimed was responsible for 30% of the power. This has nothing to do with high stress on the lubed sliding parts.
"pellets deformed by shooting to the point of loosing the skirt"
Hummmm.....I've never had that issue that I remember. Still, that has nothing to do with highly loaded lubed sliding surfaces.
"screws that loosen " by themselves"
Really, the only crews that loosened for me were the stock screws due to the compressing of wood fibers which has nothing to do with highly stressed lubed surfaces. Matter of fact, after steel sleeving my stock screw mounting holes years ago there has been no need to retorque.......
(https://i.imgur.com/G4znrw4.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/UTKu4Vs.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/PmXQtlw.jpg)
"scopes that creep"
LOL....this is a function of the inertia caused by the weight of the sliding piston which has nothing to do with the pressures on lube between the sliding surfaces.
" etc, etc, etc."
-
Man, we sure know how to completely confuse a relatively new member asking a simple question, don't we?
The simple answer is 'no' due to it's low level of moly.
-
Man, we sure know how to completely confuse a relatively new member asking a simple question, don't we?
The simple answer is 'no' due to it's low level of moly.
LOL.....that's too simple and not nearly as entertaining! ;D
Actually, if molly bearing lubes are desired, there are ARH lubes containing the proper "molly content" so no reason to be confused, it's then simply a matter of PROPER application..........
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm (https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm)
-
Man, we sure know how to completely confuse a relatively new member asking a simple question, don't we?
The simple answer is 'no' due to it's low level of moly.
LOL.....that's too simple and not nearly as entertaining! ;D
Actually, if molly bearing lubes are desired, there are ARH lubes containing the proper "molly content" so no reason to be confused, it's then simply a matter of PROPER application..........
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm (https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm)
Bingo.... good enough for ARH, good enough for me... ;)
... and yes, proper application is key.
-
Man, we sure know how to completely confuse a relatively new member asking a simple question, don't we?
The simple answer is 'no' due to it's low level of moly.
LOL.....that's too simple and not nearly as entertaining! ;D
Actually, if molly bearing lubes are desired, there are ARH lubes containing the proper "molly content" so no reason to be confused, it's then simply a matter of PROPER application.......... :D
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm (https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42989.htm)
Bingo.... good enough for ARH, good enough for me... ;)
... and yes, proper application is key.
Yes Avator - That answer was given in post #4 of this thread :o.
The rest was pure entertainment ... keeping the GTA's Government on their toes.... :D
-
Man, we sure know how to completely confuse a relatively new member asking a simple question, don't we?
The simple answer is 'no' due to it's low level of moly.
That is what I was trying to point out. ;D ;D
-Y
-
I will get flamed here but so be it... such tender little egos here !! At my age I have seen heard most all of the hype gimmics ect. Its just so much BS ... but airgunners can be a fickle bunch. Lets face it grown men playing with bb guns... LOL what could possiably go wrong ??? But it is entertaining up to a point!!
I tire of so called experts.. If wonder why the world is so messed up ?? People like to think they are it the cats meow.. I know better because yada yada yada. In the end few care. Spring guns are fun they are precision tools. Nothing more nothing less.
All one needs to keep ones air arm working great is a little tube of J.M moly and perhaps some clear tar and you are set as far as lubes. Just know where to put it. Get all uppity and I can yell you where to put it and you will not like it !! That is humor for the thin skinned types !!
Some people just love to arque and make a fuss over little to nothing !! I assume most of us are over the age of 30, *(&^ most of us are over 50-60 !! Sit back grow up have a brew perhaps a good cigar and relax and have fun. I love to shoot ! I find it relaxing and calming.
We have turned the world to &^^& ! do we have to F&^* everything up including this hobby? I don't need 20 ft pounds to have fun. I just need a smooth shooting arm which can hit the target consistanly. Now bend the *(&^ over and take your medicine !!
This was all said in jest... well maybe not LOL !!
Back in the day it was drislide for leather sealed airguns now it is Moly for synthetic seals. It is NOT rocket science!! Never was , never will be.
Just sayin !!
kindly
ron
-
How about the Loctite 51048? is that one good for lubing the springers?
-
I will get flamed here but so be it... such tender little egos here !! At my age I have seen heard most all of the hype gimmics ect. Its just so much BS ... but airgunners can be a fickle bunch. Lets face it grown men playing with bb guns... LOL what could possiably go wrong ??? But it is entertaining up to a point!!
I tire of so called experts.. If wonder why the world is so messed up ?? People like to think they are it the cats meow.. I know better because yada yada yada. In the end few care. Spring guns are fun they are precision tools. Nothing more nothing less.
All one needs to keep ones air arm working great is a little tube of J.M moly and perhaps some clear tar and you are set as far as lubes. Just know where to put it. Get all uppity and I can yell you where to put it and you will not like it !! That is humor for the thin skinned types !!
Some people just love to arque and make a fuss over little to nothing !! I assume most of us are over the age of 30, *(&^ most of us are over 50-60 !! Sit back grow up have a brew perhaps a good cigar and relax and have fun. I love to shoot ! I find it relaxing and calming.
We have turned the world to &^^& ! do we have to F&^* everything up including this hobby? I don't need 20 ft pounds to have fun. I just need a smooth shooting arm which can hit the target consistanly. Now bend the *(&^ over and take your medicine !!
This was all said in jest... well maybe not LOL !!
Back in the day it was drislide for leather sealed airguns now it is Moly for synthetic seals. It is NOT rocket science!! Never was , never will be.
Just sayin !!
kindly
ron
Hey Ron,
Glad to have you back in the saddle ;).
I'd forgotten about your bloviating posts of Floridian bluster.
But I have to agree with on this one, Jim Maccari lubes have been around for 30+ years and are hard to beat.
Cheers,
Kirk
-
Where can one buy clear tar? Don't think ARH sells it anymore.
-
Where can one buy clear tar? Don't think ARH sells it anymore.
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42987.htm (https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42987.htm)
-
Where can one buy clear tar? Don't think ARH sells it anymore.
https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42987.htm (https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/catalog/item/251484/42987.htm)
Thanks Kirk, my bad thought I had looked before.