GTA
Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => 3D printing and files => Topic started by: Randy00 on January 01, 2021, 05:30:54 PM
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Just wondering if you people have a preference for filament for parts.. Like rail, covers.. Inside like baffles, end caps for ldc's shroud etc..
I have been doing some research for a few days and am trying to get up to speed on materials and beds, nozzles etc.. Slicers, cad...
Any tips for a newbie would be greatly appreciated!!!
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I have a basic ender 3 as a first printer. I thought about the pro version but none of the differences seamed important to me. I didn't look too hard at the clones. There is such a large number of Ender 3's out there that no matter what you are trying to do or problem you have, somebody has been there before (kind of like buying a 1377). I use the Cura slicer. Easy to use and the default profiles for the ender 3 and different filaments work well without having to tune them.
PLA gives nice prints but is the first to soften/deform at higher temperature (hot car, black part in the sun, etc). PETG is the next step up in temperature capability. Stefan on the CNC Kitchen Youtube channel has done some basic strength/stiffnes testing https://www.youtube.com/c/CNCKitchen/videos (https://www.youtube.com/c/CNCKitchen/videos).
When you are planning your setup, plan for some ventilation. Depending on which filament you use there are some fumes. May not want to put it where you'll be sitting next to it while it prints (for hours). I am still surprised how long some designs take to print.
For CAD, you'll get a broad range of suggestions. To get started, you can do quite a bit of model manipulation in 3D Builder that comes free with windows 10.
Once you get your printer, there are some great videos that cover assembly and alignment that go beyond the instructions that come with the Ender.
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I have a basic ender 3 as a first printer. I thought about the pro version but none of the differences seamed important to me. I didn't look too hard at the clones. There is such a large number of Ender 3's out there that no matter what you are trying to do or problem you have, somebody has been there before (kind of like buying a 1377). I use the Cura slicer. Easy to use and the default profiles for the ender 3 and different filaments work well without having to tune them.
PLA gives nice prints but is the first to soften/deform at higher temperature (hot car, black part in the sun, etc). PETG is the next step up in temperature capability. Stefan on the CNC Kitchen Youtube channel has done some basic strength/stiffnes testing https://www.youtube.com/c/CNCKitchen/videos (https://www.youtube.com/c/CNCKitchen/videos).
When you are planning your setup, plan for some ventilation. Depending on which filament you use there are some fumes. May not want to put it where you'll be sitting next to it while it prints (for hours). I am still surprised how long some designs take to print.
For CAD, you'll get a broad range of suggestions. To get started, you can do quite a bit of model manipulation in 3D Builder that comes free with windows 10.
Once you get your printer, there are some great videos that cover assembly and alignment that go beyond the instructions that come with the Ender.
Can 3d builder be sent to a slicer, or do you need other software to do that?
Also, Is PLA durable enough to made interior and exterior parts? I'm wanting to maybe make a magazine and a monocore for a shroud. End caps etc...
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Go with petg. Pla doesn’t like sunlight. Petg doesn’t care about sunlight and won’t degrade like pla will. Plus petg has higher strength.
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Yes, Cura accepts files saved in 3D builder.
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Yes, Cura accepts files saved in 3D builder.
Guess I really need a tutorial in 3D builder. Was dorking around in there and have a cylinder created so far LOL.
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Don't know if you are looking at alternatives. I got a sovol sv-01 and it is excellent. The user base is smaller so if that's important then maybe not a good choice but when I looked into it this printer seemed to be a significant upgrade for about the same amount of money.
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Yes, Cura accepts files saved in 3D builder.
Guess I really need a tutorial in 3D builder. Was dorking around in there and have a cylinder created so far LOL.
tinkercad might be easier and its free .. Thingiverse has a million free files you can print , so you can learn to draw while printing existing designs.
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Don't know if you are looking at alternatives. I got a sovol sv-01 and it is excellent. The user base is smaller so if that's important then maybe not a good choice but when I looked into it this printer seemed to be a significant upgrade for about the same amount of money.
I ended up buying a longer LK4 yesterday.. Thanks for the offer though!
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Yes, Cura accepts files saved in 3D builder.
Guess I really need a tutorial in 3D builder. Was dorking around in there and have a cylinder created so far LOL.
tinkercad might be easier and its free .. Thingiverse has a million free files you can print , so you can learn to draw while printing existing designs.
Can the files there be edited ?
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yes you can do almost everything in tinkercad.. you can bring files from thingoverse, look them over, add some mods to them , etc .
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3Dbuilder provides a less formal way to create and modify simple designs. A couple of hints. The position and rotation are the center of the selected part(s). Clicking on the numbers below the XYZ lets you type in an exact value, same for the resize. Under edit, the subtract command removes the selected shape from whatever it touches. Simple way to add holes or make a baffle cone. The split command trims a part and is also an easy way to see the internals of say an LDC. The select/unselect buttons on the far right help keep track of what you are working on.
Thingiverse files are one part as a mesh of points, no features to select to edit. You can scale them and trim them easily but you can't move a hole easily for example. You can plug a hole and subtract a new one as described above.
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yes you can do almost everything in tinkercad.. you can bring files from thingoverse, look them over, add some mods to them , etc .
I'll have to look at tinkercard..
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3Dbuilder provides a less formal way to create and modify simple designs. A couple of hints. The position and rotation are the center of the selected part(s). Clicking on the numbers below the XYZ lets you type in an exact value, same for the resize. Under edit, the subtract command removes the selected shape from whatever it touches. Simple way to add holes or make a baffle cone. The split command trims a part and is also an easy way to see the internals of say an LDC. The select/unselect buttons on the far right help keep track of what you are working on.
Thingiverse files are one part as a mesh of points, no features to select to edit. You can scale them and trim them easily but you can't move a hole easily for example. You can plug a hole and subtract a new one as described above.
Is it easier to create or modify existing designs. One of the things I want to make is a air stripper that pulls the front of the shroud tight with 1/2 20 threads.. Actually not sure where to begin as I have only found one air stripper on thingverse that looks like part of it may work.. For a Theoben..
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double post sorry
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McMaster Carr has 3d models of bolts https://www.mcmaster.com/91251A016/ (https://www.mcmaster.com/91251A016/). If you pick the STEP file format you need to open it in something like freecad and save it as STL. Then you can open it in 3D builder and subtract it from your part to get an internal thread. I don't know if tinkercad imports STEP or solidworks files directly. One thing to keep track of is what orientation you will print it so you minimize overhangs.
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McMaster Carr has 3d models of bolts https://www.mcmaster.com/91251A016/ (https://www.mcmaster.com/91251A016/). If you pick the STEP file format you need to open it in something like freecad and save it as STL. Then you can open it in 3D builder and subtract it from your part to get an internal thread. I don't know if tinkercad imports STEP or solidworks files directly. One thing to keep track of is what orientation you will print it so you minimize overhangs.
Didn't know these things would print threaded areas. I'm starting from ZERO here and really have no idea what I'm doing.. ME+Software=nada.. I was a hardware breakfix tech for DEll so I have some experience fixing junk though..
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like Stan mentioned, tinker is limited.. What you really need is a printer, some PLA , cura, and thingiverse.. Get the hang of printing random garbage and cura settings.. Then as time passes , you can get more into designing items.. The hardest part of 3d printing is learning cad.. But many folks printt items off the internet and never learn to draw.. As an aside , anything imported to tinker can be exported to fusion 360 where the possibilities are endless. The more programs you know the better, but for now , cura is the only one you need asap to print stuff off the internet.
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like Stan mentioned, tinker is limited.. What you really need is a printer, some PLA , cura, and thingiverse.. Get the hang of printing random garbage and cura settings.. Then as time passes , you can get more into designing items.. The hardest part of 3d printing is learning cad.. But many folks printt items off the internet and never learn to draw.. As an aside , anything imported to tinker can be exported to fusion 360 where the possibilities are endless. The more programs you know the better, but for now , cura is the only one you need asap to print stuff off the internet.
So basically what you are saying is, go print stuff for a while and then design...As an aside.. I have found nothing out there that works int he air rifle that I'm trying to mod.
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like Stan mentioned, tinker is limited.. What you really need is a printer, some PLA , cura, and thingiverse.. Get the hang of printing random garbage and cura settings.. Then as time passes , you can get more into designing items.. The hardest part of 3d printing is learning cad.. But many folks printt items off the internet and never learn to draw.. As an aside , anything imported to tinker can be exported to fusion 360 where the possibilities are endless. The more programs you know the better, but for now , cura is the only one you need asap to print stuff off the internet.
So basically what you are saying is, go print stuff for a while and then design...As an aside.. I have found nothing out there that works in the air rifle that I'm trying to mod.
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CAD take some time to learn but editing existing models can be a lot easier. You can do some basic resizing in Cura. Or do some basic mods in 3D builder or Tinkercad. The adapter in the pictures below was taking the thread model from McMaster and adding/subtracting (using 3D builder) a few simple shapes so it was a snug fit on a crosman barrel. The same process combined/edited a couple of models to make the dragon LDC.
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like Stan mentioned, tinker is limited.. What you really need is a printer, some PLA , cura, and thingiverse.. Get the hang of printing random garbage and cura settings.. Then as time passes , you can get more into designing items.. The hardest part of 3d printing is learning cad.. But many folks printt items off the internet and never learn to draw.. As an aside , anything imported to tinker can be exported to fusion 360 where the possibilities are endless. The more programs you know the better, but for now , cura is the only one you need asap to print stuff off the internet.
So basically what you are saying is, go print stuff for a while and then design...As an aside.. I have found nothing out there that works in the air rifle that I'm trying to mod without somehow tweaking them .
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CAD take some time to learn but editing existing models can be a lot easier. You can do some basic resizing in Cura. Or do some basic mods in 3D builder or Tinkercad. The adapter in the pictures below was taking the thread model from McMaster and adding/subtracting (using 3D builder) a few simple shapes so it was a snug fit on a crosman barrel. The same process combined/edited a couple of models to make the dragon LDC.
That mod is unique to say the least!
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I just grabbed the 1/2-20 bolt from mcmaster .. took it to freecad and exported as an stl in my project folder.. Looking for a way to remove the head of the bolt now in tinkercad . This is pretty cool stuff I have to say.. It's already messing with my dyslexia and adhd LOL
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Looks like you are on your way. It can be rewarding too. I recently traded a print of a small electronics enclosure for a batch of really good fresh baked cookies.
Have fun.
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Looks like you are on your way. It can be rewarding too. I recently traded a print of a small electronics enclosure for a batch of really good fresh baked cookies.
Have fun.
Sounds fair to me!
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I found this Rapid stripper in stl.. I'm sure you guys have seen it.. Now I want to make it fit my larger OD and add the 1/2-20 threads to the inside. Slow stuff
Kind of stuck.. watching vids on tinkercad stl modification.
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I don't know about Tinkercad but in 3Dbuilder you just put the bolt where you want the threads, select it (only) and hit subtract in the edit menu. See the example below I cut the final part in half so you can see the result. If you want some smooth holes just make a cylinder instead of using the bolt and subtract it. I'm guessing tinker has something equivalent.
If you are making bigger holes, be aware that 3D prints are weak in between the layers (think grain in pine) so leave yourself enough wall thickness so it does not snap.
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I found this Rapid stripper in stl.. I'm sure you guys have seen it.. Now I want to make it fit my larger OD and add the 1/2-20 threads to the inside. Slow stuff
Kind of stuck.. watching vids on tinkercad stl modification.
in tinker , drag a hollow tube onto the build plate from the right selection.. make it 11.5 mm by 11.5 mm.. align the 2 using the align tab top right , once perfectly centered , you " group" the 2 items.. now you have an 11mm hole in the bottom.. Next is to pull up the metric thread icon on the right..It doesnt mattter it says metric.. You can design the pitch and crest and diameter in the thread tab.. This is too complex to explain typing it , just search for threads on tinkercad. There should be a few videos out there on using the thread option.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1laczjEZOI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1laczjEZOI)
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Thanks you both for the info!! I have the mcmaster 1/2-20 with the head removed in tinker right now.. I also have the rapid air stripper on another tinker page at the same time. Trying to get the threads from my bolt into the rapid air stripper.. As for filament.. I got two kinds.. pla and pteg.. Not sure which I will use or which the printer will let me use.. not to muddy my already muddy head.. I've been reading about filled nylon as well.. I'm sure this cheap little printer can't handel that and maybe not even pteg..
As for the bolt.I think I have to save it as slt to my pc then try to add it as a file to the stripper and go from there..
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make the bolt clear in the options.. this will allow you to " cut away " the threads in the needed location.. best to upload both to the same project page ..
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make the bolt clear in the options.. this will allow you to " cut away " the threads in the needed location.. best to upload both to the same project page ..
Okay.. Like this?
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that looks right , now group them ( highlight them as a whole , the 2 items ) then hit the group buttom top right option.
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that looks right , now group them ( highlight them as a whole , the 2 items ) then hit the group buttom top right option.
Ok.. saved as stl... still have to increase top diameter, turn it into a 1 piece monocore, add o-ring groove... woof...
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Will this latest iteration even print? To me it looks impossible and I may have to simplify it because of the cone and holes.
Or make it a two piece?
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youd have too much overhang.. you could print it with supports ( an option in cura
flip it upside down , it might come out alright since the bridging will be gradual
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Yeah, you probably need to flip that upside down to print, can't start the bottom of the cone in mid air. If you flip it, you might avoid supports between the cone and the larger threaded hole, maybe even add a chamfer cone to the top of the threaded hole to avoid supports there.
You may want to download (or make your own) and print an overhang test file to see what your printer/filament/temperature can span/cantilever
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Yeah, you probably need to flip that upside down to print, can't start the bottom of the cone in mid air. If you flip it, you might avoid supports between the cone and the larger threaded hole, maybe even add a chamfer cone to the top of the threaded hole to avoid supports there.
You may want to download (or make your own) and print an overhang test file to see what your printer/filament/temperature can span/cantilever
I think I'm going to cut it in half and join it with epoxy.. I have a basic monocore stripper I want to pull the shroud to the receiver. But.. If I just inset one and outset the other to fit maybe then? Or I can remove the cone altogether.
Here is the almost completed rough on what I'm going for.
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Yeah, you probably need to flip that upside down to print, can't start the bottom of the cone in mid air. If you flip it, you might avoid supports between the cone and the larger threaded hole, maybe even add a chamfer cone to the top of the threaded hole to avoid supports there.
You may want to download (or make your own) and print an overhang test file to see what your printer/filament/temperature can span/cantilever
When you say chamfer cone, Do you mean just complete the cone to the threaded portion and then remove with dremmel?
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looks like your threads arent grouped to the main body of the muzzle brake.. select the entire object and select " group" on the top right ..its an icon not a word
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looks like your threads arent grouped to the main body of the muzzle brake.. select the entire object and select " group" on the top right ..its an icon not a word
Grouping is grayed out..
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No, what I was thinking was, when you flip this upside down to print, the flat ring outside of your threads becomes a ceiling. It is a short span and may print OK or you may get some sag. If you had, say a 45 degree chamfer that started from near the threads and went to the wall, then when it is upside down, you are printing a 45 degree overhang (which should be OK) instead of a 90 degree step.
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looks like your threads arent grouped to the main body of the muzzle brake.. select the entire object and select " group" on the top right ..its an icon not a word
Hey Rob.. When I open this model in everything else the threads are there.. Does blue mean un-grouped for sure? When I saved an earlier version and just opened it up in tinker.. this is what I get.. Entire thing is blue and threads are there..
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No, what I was thinking was, when you flip this upside down to print, the flat ring outside of your threads becomes a ceiling. It is a short span and may print OK or you may get some sag. If you had, say a 45 degree chamfer that started from near the threads and went to the wall, then when it is upside down, you are printing a 45 degree overhang (which should be OK) instead of a 90 degree step.
I'm trying to picture what you are saying about a 45 coming near the threads.. Do you mean another shorter 45 degree cone coming out of the threaded area almost meeting the other cone?
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From the thread to the wall outside of them.
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From the thread to the wall outside of them.
Okay I understand.. Not sure how to add material in a 45 degree angle there..
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For this, I just subtracted a truncated cone from the cylinder. You could also do a test print of just that section (10 mm length or so) of your existing design (upside down) to see if there is a problem with that overhang.
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looks like your threads arent grouped to the main body of the muzzle brake.. select the entire object and select " group" on the top right ..its an icon not a word
Hey Rob.. When I open this model in everything else the threads are there.. Does blue mean un-grouped for sure? When I saved an earlier version and just opened it up in tinker.. this is what I get.. Entire thing is blue and threads are there..
ok the color means nothing , as long as it appears the threads are cut into the main part.
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For this, I just subtracted a truncated cone from the cylinder. You could also do a test print of just that section (10 mm length or so) of your existing design (upside down) to see if there is a problem with that overhang.
This is the best I can do right now with a chamfer...You think this will work?
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looks like your threads arent grouped to the main body of the muzzle brake.. select the entire object and select " group" on the top right ..its an icon not a word
Hey Rob.. When I open this model in everything else the threads are there.. Does blue mean un-grouped for sure? When I saved an earlier version and just opened it up in tinker.. this is what I get.. Entire thing is blue and threads are there..
ok the color means nothing , as long as it appears the threads are cut into the main part.
Good.. The threads keep appearing after I open it in different apps..
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Looks great. When you turn on supports in Cura, it will put some small ones in the two side holes but these will be easy to snip out. Do you already have your printer?
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Looks great. When you turn on supports in Cura, it will put some small ones in the two side holes but these will be easy to snip out. Do you already have your printer?
GOOD DEAL!! This is so time consuming! I still haven't gotten the printer.. LOL
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I understand, I had bought some filament on sale before I even picked which printer I was going to buy. ::)
You can pull it into Cura, turn on supports, slice it and then use the preview mode (and slider on the right) to walk through the print process layer by layer.
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I understand, I had bought some filament on sale before I even picked which printer I was going to buy. ::)
You can pull it into Cura, turn on supports, slice it and then use the preview mode (and slider on the right) to walk through the print process layer by layer.
So cura is the program that you do filament size, heat, speed, temp, fans and slicing right?
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I understand, I had bought some filament on sale before I even picked which printer I was going to buy. ::)
You can pull it into Cura, turn on supports, slice it and then use the preview mode (and slider on the right) to walk through the print process layer by layer.
So cura is the program that you do filament size, heat, speed, temp, fans and slicing right?
thats correct. its the setup for the print.. ( and translates the stl to a gcode , gcode runs all the motion of the machine
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I understand, I had bought some filament on sale before I even picked which printer I was going to buy. ::)
You can pull it into Cura, turn on supports, slice it and then use the preview mode (and slider on the right) to walk through the print process layer by layer.
So cura is the program that you do filament size, heat, speed, temp, fans and slicing right?
thats correct. its the setup for the print.. ( and translates the stl to a gcode , gcode runs all the motion of the machine
Will cura work with a Delta printer?
I got a message from the printer seller telling me they are out of stock and would I like a refund.
I get the felling they knew they were out of stock when I paid them. EBAY..
So I went looking again for printers.
I sent a buddy my drawings and he told me if I can, to not get that Ender style priner.
He sent me to some sites that talk about Delta printers..
He said If I want the prints to be more accurate that the delta is best esp for a beginner? Is this true?
I found a few but now I'm stumped a little.
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yes, it wont matter if its a delta, cura still works.. the downside of the delta is youre pretty much strapped to the autolevel feature.. if the autolevel is garbage , u will never be able to level the printer ( well any newb wouldnt be able to )
id still go with an ender or similar printer.. the reality is , IT doesnt matter.. Knowing what youre doing is more important than the first printer.. getting hands on experience is key..
https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=3d+printer&qid=1609868882&sr=8-4 (https://www.amazon.com/Comgrow-Creality-Ender-Aluminum-220x220x250mm/dp/B07BR3F9N6/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=3d+printer&qid=1609868882&sr=8-4)
https://www.amazon.com/Voxelab-Printer-Removable-Printing-220x220x250mm/dp/B08LYSZ55W/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=3d+printer&qid=1609868924&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A3IJ74OD57QMXP&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyU1FHSzZFVk1CN1hCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjg4MTg2MjU3NTAzUU9DU0hCTiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzU5Mjk4MVZNVkdHUEE2NzNURiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= (https://www.amazon.com/Voxelab-Printer-Removable-Printing-220x220x250mm/dp/B08LYSZ55W/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=3d+printer&qid=1609868924&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&smid=A3IJ74OD57QMXP&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyU1FHSzZFVk1CN1hCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjg4MTg2MjU3NTAzUU9DU0hCTiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzU5Mjk4MVZNVkdHUEE2NzNURiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=)
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get started , rip the bandaid.. the printers are cheaper than most airguns now..Years ago 3d printing was a big investment.. My last purchase ( ive had 10 printers over the yrs ) was a 109 dollar copy of the ender 3 .. it works perfect , no issues.. and if it died tommorow id lose no sleep.. think of them as disposable tech it will ease the decision
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get started , rip the bandaid.. the printers are cheaper than most airguns now..Years ago 3d printing was a big investment.. My last purchase ( ive had 10 printers over the yrs ) was a 109 dollar copy of the ender 3 .. it works perfect , no issues.. and if it died tommorow id lose no sleep.. think of them as disposable tech it will ease the decision
Well... I ordered the FLSUN QQS Delta.. I'm hoping my OCD helps me get it straight before much printing, but it has really good reviews and even some from newbies like myself.
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get started , rip the bandaid.. the printers are cheaper than most airguns now..Years ago 3d printing was a big investment.. My last purchase ( ive had 10 printers over the yrs ) was a 109 dollar copy of the ender 3 .. it works perfect , no issues.. and if it died tommorow id lose no sleep.. think of them as disposable tech it will ease the decision
Well... I ordered the FLSUN QQS Delta.. I'm hoping my OCD helps me get it straight before much printing, but it has really good reviews and even some from newbies like myself.
sounds good ,as long as u get it leveled , it will do everything you want..deltas are especially good at taller structures as the bed is not making the print sway
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get started , rip the bandaid.. the printers are cheaper than most airguns now..Years ago 3d printing was a big investment.. My last purchase ( ive had 10 printers over the yrs ) was a 109 dollar copy of the ender 3 .. it works perfect , no issues.. and if it died tommorow id lose no sleep.. think of them as disposable tech it will ease the decision
Well... I ordered the FLSUN QQS Delta.. I'm hoping my OCD helps me get it straight before much printing, but it has really good reviews and even some from newbies like myself.
sounds good ,as long as u get it leveled , it will do everything you want..deltas are especially good at taller structures as the bed is not making the print sway
Supposed to have auto-level. But, I don't expect this thing to be square at all in any way.. I plan to spend the first day setting it up even though they claim it's almost all together.
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I got into printing in late 2019, I’ve exclusively printed other people’s files. I’ve printed in PLA,PETG and ABS
PETG is the cheapest filament on amazon so I print in it, and I print the initial layer very slow on my Flsun QQ-s.
I haven’t designed anything myself but I have printed files with built in supports for the unavoidable 45 degree angles, so maybe you could flip the print as others have said, but add little cylinders as supports.
The Flsun QQ-s was not my first printer, it is a pain to level and instructions and customer service aren’t great, but it’s a solid printer, I’ve marathoned for 4 days with mine and I’m still on my original nozzle.
The printer is a great one for experimenting with changing filament during a print.
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I got into printing in late 2019, I’ve exclusively printed other people’s files. I’ve printed in PLA,PETG and ABS
PETG is the cheapest filament on amazon so I print in it, and I print the initial layer very slow on my Flsun QQ-s.
I haven’t designed anything myself but I have printed files with built in supports for the unavoidable 45 degree angles, so maybe you could flip the print as others have said, but add little cylinders as supports.
The Flsun QQ-s was not my first printer, it is a pain to level and instructions and customer service aren’t great, but it’s a solid printer, I’ve marathoned for 4 days with mine and I’m still on my original nozzle.
The printer is a great one for experimenting with changing filament during a print.
So I have to build the supports as well? I was under the impression that the slicer could ad them...
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Looks like FLSUN QQ-S is one of the options in Cura. If you haven't already, download it (free) and slice your part with supports on and see what it puts in.
After the delta, you could always scale up to one of the Hangprinter builds https://wiki.fablabchemnitz.de/display/TH (https://wiki.fablabchemnitz.de/display/TH) ;)
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Looks like FLSUN QQ-S is one of the options in Cura. If you haven't already, download it (free) and slice your part with supports on and see what it puts in.
After the delta, you could always scale up to one of the Hangprinter builds https://wiki.fablabchemnitz.de/display/TH (https://wiki.fablabchemnitz.de/display/TH) ;)
HOLY.....&^^& No way.. :D
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I got into printing in late 2019, I’ve exclusively printed other people’s files. I’ve printed in PLA,PETG and ABS
PETG is the cheapest filament on amazon so I print in it, and I print the initial layer very slow on my Flsun QQ-s.
I haven’t designed anything myself but I have printed files with built in supports for the unavoidable 45 degree angles, so maybe you could flip the print as others have said, but add little cylinders as supports.
The Flsun QQ-s was not my first printer, it is a pain to level and instructions and customer service aren’t great, but it’s a solid printer, I’ve marathoned for 4 days with mine and I’m still on my original nozzle.
The printer is a great one for experimenting with changing filament during a print.
So I have to build the supports as well? I was under the impression that the slicer could ad them...
Cura can put in supports, but there are people who design in break away pieces instead of relying on cura to support just the needed overhang.
If you play around with setttings and support blockers and custom supports you would be able to get around supporting everything over the selected support angle.
I’ve started using line pattern supports instead of my normal zigzag and grid pattern, for the models that I’m printing it works very well and the supports break away easily, I also don’t use support ceiling. These are advanced cura settings, I didn’t touch them for the first 6 months of printing.
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agreed with what every one else is saying.. Dont get too deep into cura settings ,not when youre starting .. You will end up bogged down trying to find which mistakes you made and when.. Set the infill ,temps for the extruder and bed ,adhesion type ( brim does just fine for newbs, raft as a backup plan ) select your machine in the dropdown , or closest to it..your nozzle size , filament size. ,,, theres a basics page , thats all you need.. try to avoid cura generated supports , it usally generates a cluster-f--k mess you cant fix easily... Print , toss, think , print ,toss , think ,repeat. Filament is cheap, so dont be afraid to print one item5 different ways.
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agreed with what every one else is saying.. Dont get too deep into cura settings ,not when youre starting .. You will end up bogged down trying to find which mistakes you made and when.. Set the infill ,temps for the extruder and bed ,adhesion type ( brim does just fine for newbs, raft as a backup plan ) select your machine in the dropdown , or closest to it..your nozzle size , filament size. ,,, theres a basics page , thats all you need.. try to avoid cura generated supports , it usally generates a cluster-f--k mess you cant fix easily... Print , toss, think , print ,toss , think ,repeat. Filament is cheap, so dont be afraid to print one item5 different ways.
I watched a video with a guy doing custom braces with a program into cura... I may just do like the suggestion and put little tubes where I think they are needed.. Very interesting stuff..
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agreed with what every one else is saying.. Dont get too deep into cura settings ,not when youre starting .. You will end up bogged down trying to find which mistakes you made and when.. Set the infill ,temps for the extruder and bed ,adhesion type ( brim does just fine for newbs, raft as a backup plan ) select your machine in the dropdown , or closest to it..your nozzle size , filament size. ,,, theres a basics page , thats all you need.. try to avoid cura generated supports , it usally generates a cluster-f--k mess you cant fix easily... Print , toss, think , print ,toss , think ,repeat. Filament is cheap, so dont be afraid to print one item5 different ways.
I watched a video with a guy doing custom braces with a program into cura... I may just do like the suggestion and put little tubes where I think they are needed.. Very interesting stuff..
yes, ill throw some tiny 1 mm wide walls where needed in the drawing , and snap em off afterwards.. almost no evidence compared to traditional supports.
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The printer has been moving around my area for 3 days and not being delivered LOL
I stayed in the area for a few days to stop porch pirates.
Oh well..
Gives me more time to read up on this printer.. Hope I don't screw it up assembling it. To me, manuals read like Chinese even when in English.. Now that I think about it, learning that language may become a necessity in the next few years it seems.. :o
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The printer has been moving around my area for 3 days and not being delivered LOL
I stayed in the area for a few days to stop porch pirates.
Oh well..
Gives me more time to read up on this printer.. Hope I don't screw it up assembling it. To me, manuals read like Chinese even when in English.. Now that I think about it, learning that language may become a necessity in the next few years it seems.. :o
yep, eventually , we will all be sent to chinese re-education camps where we will learn mandarin and how to assemble 3d printers ( -'
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The Skynet 3d printers will be self replicating........
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The Skynet 3d printers will be self replicating........
very good point
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Got the printer late yesterday.
Actually started printing within 2 hours.. Skipped the test prints and went for one of my designs.
Very happy with the outcome with their test pla but, ...
The object was supposed to be solid (filled) but it was empty with inside bracing?
I designed it solid but it came out that way.
Any clue if it was tinkercad, cura, or me?
Nevermind .. Infill.. LOL
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Without pictures, it did not happen. ;)
Congratulations, now you can move onto more important stuff.... like bag clips.
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Without pictures, it did not happen. ;)
Congratulations, now you can move onto more important stuff.... like bag clips.
I love that shark! LOL
Here it is on test print #2 just now using their pla.. Had to tweak it a little.
Eating Taco Bell and watching my 3D printer.. I feel like a Gen Z!! Now for the tide pods! ;D
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hahahaa on the tide pods.. looks good so far, doesnt seem you had trouble leveling
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hahahaa on the tide pods.. looks good so far, doesnt seem you had trouble leveling
Not really..Here is the (finished?) shroud base. I went .15 and it was blazing fast.
everything fits like it should so far.
Might do it again in petg..
Next up.. monocore+endcap.. Hope this one doesn't sag too bad with the arches.. Going to print without braces first and see where it goes.
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looks good to me , youre moving right along.
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looks good to me , youre moving right along.
Thanks! It's either Seagrams, Self Flagellation or airguns.. The 3D has captured my OCD and that's not bad.
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Well, phase one is complete. I have the monocore stripper/endcap threaded to 1/2-20 and it works other than slight clipping. I had the exit hole 9mm but the plastic took the ID down to 7.6 and it slightly clips.
Actually going to drill it out a bit instead of re printing it.
That was phase one..
Phase two will be a shorter shroud just to the end of the muzzle like now. (cutting this shroud down so It can be extended when I want.)
I plan to have a union made so that I can join the two part on the receiver side (rear)
Then either cerakote or alumahyde.
I was getting 94 Dbs with the old setup and now it's 89.2
So far so good.
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awesome :D
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Nice!
I've been using the Cura initial layer horizontal expansion parameter (like -.5mm) to adjust for the first layer squish (elephant's foot).
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Nice!
I've been using the Cura initial layer horizontal expansion parameter (like -.5mm) to adjust for the first layer squish (elephant's foot).
Is this something I need to do?
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It depends on your printer. I was guessing that you printed it nose down and the first layer squished and closed up your hole down from 9mm. You only need it if the first layer of your print measures wider (say on a box or cylinder) than the rest of the print.
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yea , that bottom edge can be a pain in the butt.. I thin adding a raft to the print eliminates the issue also.
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yea , that bottom edge can be a pain in the butt.. I thin adding a raft to the print eliminates the issue also.
Last few prints were a pain on the bed.. I will start using a raft.
tinkercad is really messing up today.. red lines everywhere.. node faled group failed.. designs suddenly shifting all over the place.. I closed it and cleared browser several times.. guess I'll stop today.
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yea , that bottom edge can be a pain in the butt.. I thin adding a raft to the print eliminates the issue also.
Last few prints were a pain on the bed.. I will start using a raft.
tinkercad is really messing up today.. red lines everywhere.. node faled group failed.. designs suddenly shifting all over the place.. I closed it and cleared browser several times.. guess I'll stop today.
try an older version of cura.. theyre far simpler.. 15.04 is a good one , it just covers the basics. Make sure to right cllick the part in cura, and hit center object on build plate.. ( its an option in the drop down
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Bed adhesion with the Flsun QQ-S can be a pain, I can print with PETG only if I slow down the initial layer to below 10 mm/s, the travel moves are so fast that even with a properly leveled bed, the nozzle will pull the filament away from the bed.
I currently have PLA loaded in mine, I still print the first layer slowly and I use brims on most things, but I’ll use a raft when I’m printing longer 12 hour plus prints.
Also the bed on the QQ-S isn’t the same distance all around, you’ll likely spend awhile getting the settings just right.
Sometimes I print a single layer disk at .2 mm that is 150x150mm of course you can download the anycubic predator bed level stl scale it down, the point of either of these is to really check your bed level.
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yea , that bottom edge can be a pain in the butt.. I thin adding a raft to the print eliminates the issue also.
Last few prints were a pain on the bed.. I will start using a raft.
tinkercad is really messing up today.. red lines everywhere.. node faled group failed.. designs suddenly shifting all over the place.. I closed it and cleared browser several times.. guess I'll stop today.
try an older version of cura.. theyre far simpler.. 15.04 is a good one , it just covers the basics. Make sure to right cllick the part in cura, and hit center object on build plate.. ( its an option in the drop down
I have 3 version of cura now.. I'll look for that one thanks!
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Bed adhesion with the Flsun QQ-S can be a pain, I can print with PETG only if I slow down the initial layer to below 10 mm/s, the travel moves are so fast that even with a properly leveled bed, the nozzle will pull the filament away from the bed.
I currently have PLA loaded in mine, I still print the first layer slowly and I use brims on most things, but I’ll use a raft when I’m printing longer 12 hour plus prints.
Also the bed on the QQ-S isn’t the same distance all around, you’ll likely spend awhile getting the settings just right.
Sometimes I print a single layer disk at .2 mm that is 150x150mm of course you can download the anycubic predator bed level stl scale it down, the point of either of these is to really check your bed level.
What bed is on the pro? Is there an upgrade for this circular bed?
Also thinking about nylon+ carbon and glass.. I'm lighting it today and plan to build an enclosure that I downloaded. I think I need an all metal hot end and hardened nozzle..
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Bed adhesion with the Flsun QQ-S can be a pain, I can print with PETG only if I slow down the initial layer to below 10 mm/s, the travel moves are so fast that even with a properly leveled bed, the nozzle will pull the filament away from the bed.
I currently have PLA loaded in mine, I still print the first layer slowly and I use brims on most things, but I’ll use a raft when I’m printing longer 12 hour plus prints.
Also the bed on the QQ-S isn’t the same distance all around, you’ll likely spend awhile getting the settings just right.
Sometimes I print a single layer disk at .2 mm that is 150x150mm of course you can download the anycubic predator bed level stl scale it down, the point of either of these is to really check your bed level.
What bed is on the pro? Is there an upgrade for this circular bed?
Also thinking about nylon+ carbon and glass.. I'm lighting it today and plan to build an enclosure that I downloaded. I think I need an all metal hot end and hardened nozzle..
I believe the bed is the same for both the QQ-S and Pro, the main difference is the WiFi capability, which I never use.
From what I’ve found the center of my bed is higher than the outer Edges of the bed, I’ve also started writing down the Z height so I can reference it when I’m changing settings.
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Bed adhesion with the Flsun QQ-S can be a pain, I can print with PETG only if I slow down the initial layer to below 10 mm/s, the travel moves are so fast that even with a properly leveled bed, the nozzle will pull the filament away from the bed.
I currently have PLA loaded in mine, I still print the first layer slowly and I use brims on most things, but I’ll use a raft when I’m printing longer 12 hour plus prints.
Also the bed on the QQ-S isn’t the same distance all around, you’ll likely spend awhile getting the settings just right.
Sometimes I print a single layer disk at .2 mm that is 150x150mm of course you can download the anycubic predator bed level stl scale it down, the point of either of these is to really check your bed level.
What bed is on the pro? Is there an upgrade for this circular bed?
Also thinking about nylon+ carbon and glass.. I'm lighting it today and plan to build an enclosure that I downloaded. I think I need an all metal hot end and hardened nozzle..
I believe the bed is the same for both the QQ-S and Pro, the main difference is the WiFi capability, which I never use.
From what I’ve found the center of my bed is higher than the outer Edges of the bed, I’ve also started writing down the Z height so I can reference it when I’m changing settings.
My QQs has the wifi as well but I read it's useless..
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Here is what I ended up doing. Alumahyde II matt black. I've used it before and when baked it's almost as durable as cerakote.
Still building the union to extend the shroud. The knurling on both turned out better that I expected.