GTA
Airguns by Make and Model => Diana Airguns => Topic started by: prosportfan on December 21, 2020, 03:16:57 AM
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What is that adjustable "rod" that attaches the cocking lever to the compression tube on a RWS 54 and how do you adjust it? I am just wondering if I have it adjusted to tight when I finally put the cocking lever to its return position. I know its supposed to be about 2-3inches above where it finally rests at against the stock. Also, what does your 22cal 54 like pellet wise?
cross posted
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What is that adjustable "rod" that attaches the cocking lever to the compression tube on a RWS 54 and how do you adjust it? I am just wondering if I have it adjusted to tight when I finally put the cocking lever to its return position. I know its supposed to be about 2-3inches above where it finally rests at against the stock. Also, what does your 22cal 54 like pellet wise?
cross posted
Going by this diagram:
https://www.diana-airguns.de/fileadmin/Editoren/PDF-Downloads/Download-Techische-Info/Ersatzteillisten-Luftgewehre/Mod_54_Airking_T06.pdf (https://www.diana-airguns.de/fileadmin/Editoren/PDF-Downloads/Download-Techische-Info/Ersatzteillisten-Luftgewehre/Mod_54_Airking_T06.pdf)
It is an ASSEMBLY:
Pos numbers: 25-31
Part #: 30363400
Class: F2
Names (languages) Zugstange mont. / pull rod complete / tige d“armement compl.
The ROD ONLY by itself is:
Position: 27
Part # : 30363600
Usually it is called the "Cocking Lever Linkage Rod", or as an assembly: "Cocking lever linkage" .
For older Black seals, 2½" was a good starting point, because the seal was designed to deform under pressure and conform to the breech's face.
For Vortek white seals, you need to reduce that to 2" they are too hard.
For MODERN BLUE breech seals At FIRST, yes, 2" space /distance between cocking lever and stock is a good place to start.
For all seals: Once the seal has been settled in, it should be about 1- 1½" no more.
Best way to adjust is to release pin #63 and either lengthen or shorten the rod by HALF turns of part 25.
HTH, keep us posted.
HM
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hector, when i take the eclip off and pin out, I am only able to adjust it from 3 inches from it being fully closed/seated and fully seated. nothing in between. any suggestions? Also, when i "adjust" it a half turn using the block that the pin goes in through, the lever goes all the way to the fully seated/closed position without no resistance.
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hector, when i take the eclip off and pin out, I am only able to adjust it from 3 inches from it being fully closed/seated and fully seated. nothing in between. any suggestions? Also, when i "adjust" it a half turn using the block that the pin goes in through, the lever goes all the way to the fully seated/closed position without no resistance.
Jay;
Sorry, don't take this the wrong way, but it is impossible to understand you.
Use position numbers to explain what is happening.
USING THE POSITION NUMBERS:
Parts #25 and #29 have a good ¾" of thread in them. That means that you can lengthen or shorten the "hypotenuse" of the triangle formed by the linkage (#27), the rear fulcrum section of the cocking lever (59) and the action tube (#1)
So, this is a LOT of adjustment.
There is a nut (#26) that LOCKS the setting.
The rod (#27) is right hand threaded on BOTH ends, so you need to "unlock" the nut and adjust as needed, then you re-lock the nut.
The rod's sheath (#28) is stiff enough that it may prevent you from shortening the linkage on the compression chamber end (#29).
Again, apologies if I have offended you, it was not my intention, I just need to understand VERY clearly what is the problem. Before deciding if this is an issue that justifies "warranty action".
IMHE, the ONLY situations where the linkage adjustment can go from 3" to fully seated with 1/2 turn on part #25 is when there is NO BREECH SEAL in position. And that is not something you have noticed or mentioned in your OP.
It is possible that for the EMS version we will make the rod with one RH and one LH thread, and TWO lock nuts, but until we get a completely new gun out, the system is so old, so well known, and so trusted & understood that we cannot change it.
Hope this helps, keep well and shoot straight!
HM
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25-pull rod complete hinge
26-hexagonal nut
27-pull rod
Ok, when I take #25 (its a retangular block that screws on #27 and attaches to cocking lever) off cocking lever, I unscrew it a couple of turns so that i can unscrew #26 hex nut so that I can adjust #27 length. So as of now I was able to get the cocking arm to a height of 2inches away from stock before it becomes fully seated against the stock. now the cocking arm takes VERY little resistance to close from the 2 inches away from stock. I did the tissue test over the breach and the paper stays still.
HTH everybody, lol. Thank you HM for having me be more clear
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Good Job PSF!
It may seem as little resistance, but remember you have a HUGE leverage helping you, so whatever force you feel you apply, it gets multiplied by a factor exceeding 10X in the seal.
And believe me I am happy that this was not truly a construction/quality problem.
;-)
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
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Good Job PSF!
It may seem as little resistance, but remember you have a HUGE leverage helping you, so whatever force you feel you apply, it gets multiplied by a factor exceeding 10X in the seal.
And believe me I am happy that this was not truly a construction/quality problem.
;-)
Keep well and shoot straight!
HM
So Hector, I should be okay and good to go?
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Yes, if the tissue test says that there is no leakage, you should be good to go.
Wishing the best of holidays to everyone!
HM