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Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 and springers ,rams => Support Equipment For PCP/HPA/CO2 => Topic started by: Droppingpins on October 30, 2020, 10:52:28 AM
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Having a 5 gallon bucket with water in the house is kinda annoying. Emptying it between uses is a chore. Anyone want to show off a cool setup to avoid the hassle?
2 biggest problems with this
1) any container has to be large enough to lower the pump into. Or buy a separate pump that doesn't have to be submerged. Large lid water containers would work.
2) if you've ever researched pc watercooling in your life, you'll know this one: galvanic corrosion. Dissimilar metals(im sure they're in there) in an electrolyte(yes, water is an electrolyte) will cause galvanic corrosion. Even using distilled water, it will eventually ionize. Not to mention algae growth.
Automotive cooling systems use coolant specifically designed to combat galvanic corrosion. Although it is toxic and can be difficult to dispose of, it does seem to offer the best protection. Still not sure if I want it in my pump though.
Thoughts?
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Look up a coolant called engine ice.
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We cave closed loop cooling systems here at work.
Instead of the typical Ethylene Glycol, we use safer and enviromentally friendly Inhibited Propylene Glycol.
http://www.ppe.com/17pdf/0270.pdf (http://www.ppe.com/17pdf/0270.pdf)
• SAFE & NON-TOXIC TO PEOPLE, PETS, ANIMALS OR THE ENVIRONMENT.
• DISPOSABLE TO SANITARY AND SEPTIC SYSTEMS.
• SUPPLIED WITH OR WITHOUT OUR SPECIAL HIGH QUALITY CORROSION INHIBITOR PACKAGE TO
PROTECT THE METALS WITHIN YOUR SYSTEM.
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connect it directly to the inlet to a water faucet outside of the house without a pump, and with the outlet water the plants.
for a closed system you will need an automotive oil cooler, an external pump, and an expansion tank, if the whole system is small you will also need a fan on the oil cooler. waterless systems are not as eficient as plain water and antifreeze(for its anti corrosive properties)
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connect it directly to the inlet to a water faucet outside of the house without a pump, and with the outlet water the plants.
for a closed system you will need an automotive oil cooler, an external pump, and an expansion tank, if the whole system is small you will also need a fan on the oil cooler. waterless systems are not as eficient as plain water and antifreeze(for its anti corrosive properties)
Prob should have noted that I only run it about 40 seconds to fill my rifle. Went down to a 3 gallon bucket and after filling the gun 4 to 5 times the water still is cold to the touch.
Leaning towards getting some skid steer coolant(propylene glycol based for forestry use, I have some in my shed) and setting up a bucket with a lid I can seal when not in use to prevent evaporation.
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Just some thoughts here, had a countertop ice maker quit working when a plastic part broke that couldn't be replaced or repaired, for possible use later I removed the radiator, fan, and water pump that all work fine for a possible conversion to closed-loop system. The water pump and fan both operate on 12V dc so would need a battery or transformer power supply which I happen to have from an old alarm system battery back-up. It wouldn't take much work to turn these parts into a closed-loop system. So, if you have an old ice maker lying around you can always scavenge parts off of it.
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good ideas here, this is what I'm doing currently but it could be a whole lot better.
I bought a cheap chest cooler, I drilled 2 holes in the lid, filled lid with an expandable foam for windows.
put my submersible into the cooler with some water wetter. I fill up plastic bottles with water and freeze those.
I than drop the frozen bottles into the cooler.
What I don't like about it. The water wetter is "toxic" I have to pull the water bottles out to refreeze them.
So I'm touching the water but gloves are on. I have to try and shake the bottles off best I can, put them in a plastic bag and stick them into the freezer.
FAR from ideal. But I don't want to use straight water to cool with, I want my compressor to last so some sort of additive to
prevent internal corrosion is important to me.
I'm debating about moving to a radiator setup, but inline pumps are kind of pricey(the ones that can really push water) and the reviews seem hit and miss on them for the "affordableish" ones.
When I move to that system, I will put a fan on the radiator, I will also create a cooling loop by looping the hoses into a ice bath.
This way all the "bad" stuff stays contained truly and no more pulling bottles from that soup.
This is all overkill though imo if all you're doing is topping off a rifle. Even topping off a tank may be overkill for it.
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good ideas here, this is what I'm doing currently but it could be a whole lot better.
I bought a cheap chest cooler, I drilled 2 holes in the lid, filled lid with an expandable foam for windows.
put my submersible into the cooler with some water wetter. I fill up plastic bottles with water and freeze those.
I than drop the frozen bottles into the cooler.
What I don't like about it. The water wetter is "toxic" I have to pull the water bottles out to refreeze them.
So I'm touching the water but gloves are on. I have to try and shake the bottles off best I can, put them in a plastic bag and stick them into the freezer.
FAR from ideal. But I don't want to use straight water to cool with, I want my compressor to last so some sort of additive to
prevent internal corrosion is important to me.
I'm debating about moving to a radiator setup, but inline pumps are kind of pricey(the ones that can really push water) and the reviews seem hit and miss on them for the "affordableish" ones.
When I move to that system, I will put a fan on the radiator, I will also create a cooling loop by looping the hoses into a ice bath.
This way all the "bad" stuff stays contained truly and no more pulling bottles from that soup.
This is all overkill though imo if all you're doing is topping off a rifle. Even topping off a tank may be overkill for it.
If pc watercooling is anything to go off of(did a bunch of research on that over the years), pump pressure can be more important than pump volume. Reason being is that, in a closed loop(i.e. a radiator setup), while the water may not flow through the "hot side"(the head of the air pump) as fast, it will pick up more heat while its there, and will hang out in the radiator for longer, where it gets to dump that heat. The first and most important step in a pump is making sure it has enough pressure to force water through the system. Now the big difference between a pc watercooling loop and an air pump is(not necessarily the heat, a cpu will immediately jump to 100c if not cooled at all, thats pretty hot) that a pc loop has very tight passages with tiny fins water is forced through. The yong heng is wide open in comparison.
Moral of the story, a higher volume pump doesn't directly translate to cooler temps in a closed system, because that water also spends less time in the radiator.
Overkill is kinda my middle name. Speaking of what I've seen with the yong heng(I know all lumps are not the same so I am just using this as an example), if you found a way to increase the surface area inside the water chamber on the pump you would see a noticeable improvement in cooling compared to any pump you decide to throw at it. Look up a cpu water block, notice the hundreds of tiny micro fins. That has a massive boost in surface area compared to the size of the plate that mounts to the cpu. That means more water comes in direct contact with the hot metal, and the water can absorb the heat much better. This would probably have to be done on a lathe, but looking at the yong heng in specific, even going in with a dreamed and tiny cut off wheel you could increase the surface area quite a bit, which means better cooling.
Edit: looking again at the yong heng, theres really not much metal to remove on the outside of that cylinder under the water jacket. the only way to increase surface area would be to a)make a new one. or B) wrap the cylinder in some aluminum baling wire. the baling wire would get heat directly from the cylinder and would come in contact with more water in the jacket.
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We cave closed loop cooling systems here at work.
Instead of the typical Ethylene Glycol, we use safer and enviromentally friendly Inhibited Propylene Glycol.
http://www.ppe.com/17pdf/0270.pdf (http://www.ppe.com/17pdf/0270.pdf)
• SAFE & NON-TOXIC TO PEOPLE, PETS, ANIMALS OR THE ENVIRONMENT.
• DISPOSABLE TO SANITARY AND SEPTIC SYSTEMS.
• SUPPLIED WITH OR WITHOUT OUR SPECIAL HIGH QUALITY CORROSION INHIBITOR PACKAGE TO
PROTECT THE METALS WITHIN YOUR SYSTEM.
Yep, I have it here by the gallon. ;) It is readily available at Tractor Supply and many Feed Stores.
Knife