GTA
All Springer/NP/PCP Air Gun Discussion General => European/Asian Air Gun Gates => German AirGun Gate => Topic started by: Kasilofsteve on September 29, 2020, 09:19:29 PM
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I have an RWS Intec 340 with serious Barrel droop issues. I put a scope on it and my elevation I'm clicking over a hundred clicks just to get it on paper at 20 yards. Using a utg 3×9×32 scope with medium rings. I'm not sure what the issue is should I try lower Rings or is there an issue with the ball bearing and the pivot? Your thoughts please
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What about the open sites?
Do you have to max them out as well? If not try another scope or recenter that scope. https://rifleopticsworld.com/optically-center-scope/
That many clicks seems excessive and or something's broken. Ain't but so far the screws in there can go . Then what do I know?
Contact ugt and ask if 100 clicks is normal on there scopes.
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If not the scope, you may need to bend the barrel up about a hundred clicks, I'm sure instructions will follow soon enough.
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If the barrel latches up tight when you close it, not wiggling around, then you may indeed have barrel droop, which is common. The reciever and barrel are not pointing in the same direction, essentially, when the system is latched up. Iron sights that are mounted to the barrel will not show this, only when a rear sight is mounted on the dovetails, splitting the sight system. Outside of testing a different scope or set of adjustable mounts, you can choose to bend the barrel(see Ed) or have the scope rings milled for droop(see Mac1) Center your scope mechanically by counting clicks before you decide to bend the barrel or before taking measurements of how much droop you have in mos at a known distance if you decide on milling the rings. A breech seal that is a bit too fat might also cause a bit of droop. Your scope will have a total moa adjustment range in the specs, if you adjust too much your scope may not hold zero under repeated recoil . Or shoot with the iron sights.
Vs
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Could be the mount. Check the rings to rail mount, make sure the dovetail or picatinny to ring connection is true and fully seated. One good mount and one “off” mount will throw the scope alignment way off.
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I forgot to add like ugt makes barrel droop mount for the rws.
https://www.airgundepot.com/utg-drooper-scope-rail--11mm-to-weaver-adapter.html (https://www.airgundepot.com/utg-drooper-scope-rail--11mm-to-weaver-adapter.html)
https://www.pyramydair.com/product-all-reviews/a/utg-drooper-scope-rail-11mm-to-weaver-adapter-compensates-for-droop/4191 (https://www.pyramydair.com/product-all-reviews/a/utg-drooper-scope-rail-11mm-to-weaver-adapter-compensates-for-droop/4191)
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What about the open sites?
Do you have to max them out as well? If not try another scope or recenter that scope. https://rifleopticsworld.com/optically-center-scope/
That many clicks seems excessive and or something's broken. Ain't but so far the screws in there can go . Then what do I know?
Contact ugt and ask if 100 clicks is normal on there scopes.
the gun shoots pretty good with open sights my elevation clicks are not maxed out
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If the barrel latches up tight when you close it, not wiggling around, then you may indeed have barrel droop, which is common. The reciever and barrel are not pointing in the same direction, essentially, when the system is latched up. Iron sights that are mounted to the barrel will not show this, only when a rear sight is mounted on the dovetails, splitting the sight system. Outside of testing a different scope or set of adjustable mounts, you can choose to bend the barrel(see Ed) or have the scope rings milled for droop(see Mac1) Center your scope mechanically by counting clicks before you decide to bend the barrel or before taking measurements of how much droop you have in mos at a known distance if you decide on milling the rings. A breech seal that is a bit too fat might also cause a bit of droop. Your scope will have a total moa adjustment range in the specs, if you adjust too much your scope may not hold zero under repeated recoil . Or shoot with the iron sights.
Vs
yes the barrel does latch up tight doesn't wiggle around going to check it out tomorrow during daylight hours again but thank you for sure
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That's what's called barrel droop. It's pretty common, and in cases like yours, a drooper scope mount is called for.
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Going to check the scope rings and the base plate tomorrow more thoroughly. I may have accidentally over tighten the scope stop screw a little bit too much I think that might be what my problem is not 100% but surely great advice
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Leapers DNT06 one piece mount from Pyramyd Air will solve your problem
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I would ask ugt what the max amount of clicks in any one direction there scopes can go. . You said you went 100 clicks I'll assume one way to bring it up?
Are you sure it's not stripped out and just turning with out doing any retical movement ?
I guess I never had a scope or a gun it mounted on that was so excessively out
Just for testing reasons you could shim the rings between the scope tube and ring .
Maybe use thin like milk jug plastic to cut shims and carefully stack them in the direction you need to move the scope. Don't use anything that will damage the tube.
If that temporary works out and good then invest in the ramped droop mount as suggested.
https://www.greybeardoutdoors.com/blog/how-to-shim-a-scope/ (https://www.greybeardoutdoors.com/blog/how-to-shim-a-scope/)
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I would ask ugt what the max amount of clicks in any one direction there scopes can go. . You said you went 100 clicks I'll assume one way to bring it up?
Are you sure it's not stripped out and just turning with out doing any retical movement ?
I guess I never had a scope or a gun it mounted on that was so excessively out
Just for testing reasons you could shim the rings between the scope tube and ring .
Maybe use thin like milk jug plastic to cut shims and carefully stack them in the direction you need to move the scope. Don't use anything that will damage the tube.
If that temporary works out and good then invest in the ramped droop mount as suggested.
https://www.greybeardoutdoors.com/blog/how-to-shim-a-scope/ (https://www.greybeardoutdoors.com/blog/how-to-shim-a-scope/)
shimming the scope that's a great idea I'm probably going to try that as well. I did not max out my elevation but notice I was going too far on the clicks and said this is not right just to get on paper. I'm going to solve this problem one way or another. Maybe a new scope mount?
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I have a model 34 that is a beautiful older model, and shoots great, but I finally ended up buying a one-piece droop mount for it. I've had another 34 in the past that required the same, and I had no issues after that.
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??? I'd try the recentering of the scope. Box and mirror method.
Then secure the scope. On a spot and look through it and click up or down to check rectical travel if it moves correctly
I guess unless you know how many clicks from centered one direction it takes to bottom out or at the stop limit or keeps clicking no matter. Maybe stripped adjuster inside
Can't hurt to drop ugt a email and get there opinion or specs on that.
I tried to look things up on this deal last nite to maybe post back some better help but nothing much really nothing at all.
Outside of mounting a known good scope to see if you get the same results and can't zero it within a few clicks you just don't know.
I did think it's funny that the droop mount is stated as for a "rws" rifle so it maybe a rws thing overall and a required add on part for scopes on them?
All you can do is what you can and make a move on what's what and what's next to do.
Like lizzy her rws's needs that droop mount ,so?
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Just a couple of checks that shouldn't cost anything but time.
Acouple of long straight edges (like yard sticks) can help visualize what's going on. One laid evely on the scope rain/compression tube and one laid evenly along the barrel. Just easier to see what the relationshipis with 3 feet of straight edge along side each other.
Even better is 3 feet of straight 1" wooden dowel (or a mop handle..plastic pipe.....so long as it's straight) clamped down in the rings. That would give you a great visualization of the relationship bettween the barrel and the scope's line.
Try swapping the rings (or flipping a one piece mount). Possible they weren't made "even". If it still shoots low,then can be pretty sure the rings/mount isn't the problem.
IF using a scope stop screw (a set screw that pokes down into a recess/hole in the scope rail),but sure that's not tight before clamping the rings/mount. Doesn't need to be tight, it'sjust to stop sliding....and if it is tightened first,will jack up that end a little bit.
Previous post pretty well covered the simple ways....shims,adjustablemounts,or barrel bending. Depending on the amount of change needed,have used all of them on one rifle or another.
Shims basically bow the scope. One ring holds it flat and even...the other jackes it up...scope is actually a bit bowed...but it's slight and often fixes the problem.
Adjustable mounts had better be good mounts....the more screws that can loosen, the more things that can get loose.
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Ya, as I said use the shims to test and don't crank the rings down like you would normally . You just want a idea of the offset amount needed. Bushnell or one scope brand does make a shim kit or use to for permanent mounting tapered to fit the offset angle the tube would be in the rings. You bend that tube you may as well chunk that scope.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/scope-shims/scope-shim-kit-prod914.aspx (https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/sight-scope-installation-tools/scope-shims/scope-shim-kit-prod914.aspx)
https://us.hawkeoptics.com/mount-inserts-1.html (https://us.hawkeoptics.com/mount-inserts-1.html)
Personally if it was just droop I'd get the droop mount
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I did think it's funny that the droop mount is stated as for a "rws" rifle so it maybe a rws thing overall and a required add on part for scopes on them?
All you can do is what you can and make a move on what's what and what's next to do.
Like lizzy her rws's needs that droop mount ,so?
The model 34's seem to have a long time reputation for having droop problems.
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I did think it's funny that the droop mount is stated as for a "rws" rifle so it maybe a rws thing overall and a required add on part for scopes on them?
All you can do is what you can and make a move on what's what and what's next to do.
Like lizzy her rws's needs that droop mount ,so?
The model 34's seem to have a long time reputation for having droop problems.
Think due to the ball bearing breach locking not to say it can't happen on anything else. Like you say it's common on them it seems.
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You can also use height adjustable scope rings, that will not bend your scope.............
I had to use a pair of these rings on my 150 Crosman pistol when I mounted a scope on it.
I centered the crosshairs and then used to ring height adjustments to get very close at 25 yds,
then used the scope internal adjustments for the final amount needed etc.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Adjustable-25-4mm-Ring-Scope-Mount-Adapter-Fit-Dovetail-Weaver-Base-Rail-US/333730104991? (https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-Adjustable-25-4mm-Ring-Scope-Mount-Adapter-Fit-Dovetail-Weaver-Base-Rail-US/333730104991?)
Don
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To me, the biggest plus about the droop compensation mount is that it's one-piece, and tends to hold the scope in place better than two-ring systems, in my experience.
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To me, the biggest plus about the droop compensation mount is that it's one-piece, and tends to hold the scope in place better than two-ring systems, in my experience.
Yup!
and adjustable two piece scope rings are the most vulnerable to movement......
buy the one piece drooper mount!
BKL makes one with a variable amount of droop compensation, one piece mount that is rock solid.
HTH?
-Y
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Let's hope your not in this guys boat
https://www.opticsplanet.com/reviews/reviews-leapers-compensation-scope-mount-for-rws-airgun-w-t06-trigger/f2733c56-8b37-11e8-bd21-005056875b91.html (https://www.opticsplanet.com/reviews/reviews-leapers-compensation-scope-mount-for-rws-airgun-w-t06-trigger/f2733c56-8b37-11e8-bd21-005056875b91.html)
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You're working this to death. Leapers DNT06 one piece mount from Pyramyd Air will solve your problem
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Just a couple of checks that shouldn't cost anything but time.
Acouple of long straight edges (like yard sticks) can help visualize what's going on. One laid evely on the scope rain/compression tube and one laid evenly along the barrel. Just easier to see what the relationshipis with 3 feet of straight edge along side each other.
Even better is 3 feet of straight 1" wooden dowel (or a mop handle..plastic pipe.....so long as it's straight) clamped down in the rings. That would give you a great visualization of the relationship bettween the barrel and the scope's line.
Try swapping the rings (or flipping a one piece mount). Possible they weren't made "even". If it still shoots low,then can be pretty sure the rings/mount isn't the problem.
IF using a scope stop screw (a set screw that pokes down into a recess/hole in the scope rail),but sure that's not tight before clamping the rings/mount. Doesn't need to be tight, it'sjust to stop sliding....and if it is tightened first,will jack up that end a little bit.
Previous post pretty well covered the simple ways....shims,adjustablemounts,or barrel bending. Depending on the amount of change needed,have used all of them on one rifle or another.
Shims basically bow the scope. One ring holds it flat and even...the other jackes it up...scope is actually a bit bowed...but it's slight and often fixes the problem.
Adjustable mounts had better be good mounts....the more screws that can loosen, the more things that can get loose.
I put a few shims on the front scope ring and I'm still shooting low about 8 inches down from the 0 at 20 yards. I feel I feel silly saying this but what side should I shim the front or the rear scope ring. If this doesn't work I'll try one piece scope mount.
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To me, the biggest plus about the droop compensation mount is that it's one-piece, and tends to hold the scope in place better than two-ring systems, in my experience.
if the shimming of the scope doesn't work I am going to go to a one-piece mount I like the gun and I don't want to give up so easily worst case I'll shoot it with open sights
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To me, the biggest plus about the droop compensation mount is that it's one-piece, and tends to hold the scope in place better than two-ring systems, in my experience.
if the shimming of the scope doesn't work I am going to go to a one-piece mount I like the gun and I don't want to give up so easily worst case I'll shoot it with open sights
If you do try the droop compensation mount, please let us know your results and what you think. I have had really good success with them. The first time I dealt with this, I kept thinking every scope I put on the gun must be bad, but after 3 or 4 scopes, I realized that wasn't the problem. Haha
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Just a couple of checks that shouldn't cost anything but time.
Acouple of long straight edges (like yard sticks) can help visualize what's going on. One laid evely on the scope rain/compression tube and one laid evenly along the barrel. Just easier to see what the relationshipis with 3 feet of straight edge along side each other.
Even better is 3 feet of straight 1" wooden dowel (or a mop handle..plastic pipe.....so long as it's straight) clamped down in the rings. That would give you a great visualization of the relationship bettween the barrel and the scope's line.
Try swapping the rings (or flipping a one piece mount). Possible they weren't made "even". If it still shoots low,then can be pretty sure the rings/mount isn't the problem.
IF using a scope stop screw (a set screw that pokes down into a recess/hole in the scope rail),but sure that's not tight before clamping the rings/mount. Doesn't need to be tight, it'sjust to stop sliding....and if it is tightened first,will jack up that end a little bit.
Previous post pretty well covered the simple ways....shims,adjustablemounts,or barrel bending. Depending on the amount of change needed,have used all of them on one rifle or another.
Shims basically bow the scope. One ring holds it flat and even...the other jackes it up...scope is actually a bit bowed...but it's slight and often fixes the problem.
Adjustable mounts had better be good mounts....the more screws that can loosen, the more things that can get loose.
I put a few shims on the front scope ring and I'm still shooting low about 8 inches down from the 0 at 20 yards. I feel I feel silly saying this but what side should I shim the front or the rear scope ring. If this doesn't work I'll try one piece scope mount.
Sir, the shims go on the rear ring to correct droop.
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I don't know reading in to this. A100 clicks don't get it you add the shims ( hopefully in the right direction as said above ). And at 20 yards your still 8 inches off.
I would have to assume that droop mount would have to be a pretty steep angle.
Ya you bring the rectical from aim point to impact spot without moving the rifle or measurements method by click amount at distance of target
Some scopes up means to bring the impact point up to the target point not bring the rectical up read the scopes manual same for left/right.
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Steve,
I have a 340 N-tec too. I assume that that is what you have?
When I got the gun the angled bevel of the barrel leade and the transfer port made inserting pellets fully flush impossible. The bottom edge of the pellet skirt would stick out and get mangled when closing the barrel. What is your angled bevel like?
Could you post a picture with a long straight edge on top, of your gun? Maybe a close up photo of your barrel breach? Unless this is machined perfectly, it is a pretty stupid way of doing things, IMHO. :( ;
-Y
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I'd check the scope first, friend of mine maxed out his scope adjustment and was still 12" high and 8" left, he found another scope and mounted it, and it was within a couple inches of POA.
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To me, the biggest plus about the droop compensation mount is that it's one-piece, and tends to hold the scope in place better than two-ring systems, in my experience.
if the shimming of the scope doesn't work I am going to go to a one-piece mount I like the gun and I don't want to give up so easily worst case I'll shoot it with open sights
This may help.
Scope elevation adjustment using ring shims.
Take a pair of pencils and lay them down in a parallel fashion left to right. Assume that the left side of the pencils is the ocular scope, top pencil, & rifle butt, bottom pencil, while the right is the objective scope & rifle muzzle side. Top pencil is the scope line of sight & bottom pencil is the rifle bore. When the left end of the top pencil is raised, shimmed, the rifle bore is raised and of course the rifle bore is lowered when the left side is lowered.
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What's funny to me is if all these rws guys looking around on this is have this issue ( not to say any brand ). But so common with rws you'd think over the years and what they cost there engineer would resolve it or something . I guess droop is new out of the he box with h them ? Then have to go buy a specialty item to correct ? Just odd to me .
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What's funny to me is if all these rws guys looking around on this is have this issue ( not to say any brand ). But so common with rws you'd think over the years and what they cost there engineer would resolve it or something . I guess droop is new out of the he box with h them ? Then have to go buy a specialty item to correct ? Just odd to me .
If you use the open sights provided, droop is a no- issue. Most European airguns use the open sights, so why bother from Diana's point of view.
-Y
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What's funny to me is if all these rws guys looking around on this is have this issue ( not to say any brand ). But so common with rws you'd think over the years and what they cost there engineer would resolve it or something . I guess droop is new out of the he box with h them ? Then have to go buy a specialty item to correct ? Just odd to me .
If you use the open sights provided, droop is a no- issue. Most European airguns use the open sights, so why bother from Diana's point of view.
-Y
Kinda of a poor excuse for a company to use. But I guess as long as you pay for that and happy . I can't pay for that with rifles that don't at a better price point that takes a scope without the need for special mounts to shoot straight. Then like that one guy said I his review the droop mount still was not enough. It's just poor engineering and something that should/ could be a easy fix. It's not like a 40 buck china outlet store air gun is it?
But folks buy them ,but for me it would be like buying a gun with a bent barrel ( oh ya, that's another recommended fix for rws I see around)
I don't know I guess I would not buy one at full price .maybe a 50%off sale maybe. Then use the savings to buy extra special mounts for it.
I'm not in europe and I use a scope as well as open sites
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Beeman use to offer a service called scope angle correction. I purchased a 124 with this service, my friend did not. Mine shot fine with a scope his would never align height wise.
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I put a few shims on the front scope ring and I'm still shooting low about 8 inches down from the 0 at 20 yards. I feel I feel silly saying this but what side should I shim the front or the rear scope ring. If this doesn't work I'll try one piece scope mount.
Sir, the shims go on the rear ring to correct droop.
^ THIS ^
If you are shimming the front ring, raising the front of the scope... You are going the wrong way.
That said, forget the shims and compensating mount.... just recenter your scope, and bend the barrel and be done.
I was terrified of the thought on an irreplaceable Beeman C1... but now, looking back it was the best way to go.
https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=168557.0 (https://www.gatewaytoairguns.org/GTA/index.php?topic=168557.0)
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It’s time to bend the barrel. I did it not long ago on my HW95. Droop mount got me on paper, but the adjustment still maxed.
Read up on bending on this site, built a jig and fixed my issue.
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It’s time to bend the barrel. I did it not long ago on my HW95. Droop mount got me on paper, but the adjustment still maxed.
Read up on bending on this site, built a jig and fixed my issue.
Yep, and it's a lot less frustrating than messing with shims and mounts.
Or you can use the moron method. Pull the barrel down till the spring is about 1/4 compressed and let go of the barrel. :o
I ain't recommending it but it worked for me. :P
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my NP2 came with droop. i tried shimming the scope but i still had to move the elevation too much for liking. then one day i dropped the rifle against a cabinet. the fall bent the scope and i had to remove the shims to re-sight it in. it's been holding zero for 4 years!
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Carl that sounds like something that would happen to me.
I can’t have nice things. I used to blame the children, but they all moved out.
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To me, the biggest plus about the droop compensation mount is that it's one-piece, and tends to hold the scope in place better than two-ring systems, in my experience.
if the shimming of the scope doesn't work I am going to go to a one-piece mount I like the gun and I don't want to give up so easily worst case I'll shoot it with open sights
I have a visibly drooped Norica springer that required too much scope compensation. Ordered a one piece droop compensation mount on sale for <$10 at that time. Had to do a little custom milling (on a drill press) of the aluminum mount to fit the Norica action, but I KNEW this was likely as it was designed specifically for Diana rifles with the T05 trigger.
That mount held securely to the rifle dovetail without any slipping and provided the nearly perfect ~6" lift needed at my 30' target range. I was/am very pleased with the results.
https://www.amazon.com/UTG-Compensator-Mount-Airgun-Barrel/product-reviews/B002GO05CG (https://www.amazon.com/UTG-Compensator-Mount-Airgun-Barrel/product-reviews/B002GO05CG)
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I have an RWS Intec 340 with serious Barrel droop issues. I put a scope on it and my elevation I'm clicking over a hundred clicks just to get it on paper at 20 yards. Using a utg 3×9×32 scope with medium rings. I'm not sure what the issue is should I try lower Rings or is there an issue with the ball bearing and the pivot? Your thoughts please
Diana's (RWS) are notorious for barrel droop. When I first started "spring gunning" a few decades ago I looked at a new RWS34 at and airgun show. LOL....that RWS34 had so much droop that it could easily be seen without the need for a straightedge. While not as bad at the one mentioned I also noticed that everyone I looked at had a barrel "looking down". ............
It obvious that Diana is aware of the "design feature" because they sell a scope mount that compensates for this droop. LOL, I bought one of these mounts and found that my poi with a "non-drooping HW95" hit about 3" high at only 18 yards when my scope was optically centered..........
(https://i.imgur.com/A6CTDUGl.png)(https://i.imgur.com/EJVBLi8l.png)
https://www.airgunsofarizona.com/scope-mounts/rws-lock-down-1-scope-mount-droop-compensated/ (https://www.airgunsofarizona.com/scope-mounts/rws-lock-down-1-scope-mount-droop-compensated/)
(https://i.imgur.com/7jWQKDTh.png)
From the above link..........
025" elevation built into mount to overcome barrel deflection in RWS Air Rifles - Made of high-grade aluminum - Installation tools included
Anywhoo, I always optically center scopes for my HW95 and Beeman R9, then bend my barrel so the poi is within an inch (or closer) to the aim point at 30 yards, then do th efine adjustment via the turrets. I made up a "barrel tweaker" from construction lumber and an eye bolt like this...........
(https://i.imgur.com/rsK0loXl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/nppgPMCl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/hCUutJRl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/9M6gXwNl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/mfVQ9Q4l.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/a3A9W5al.jpg)
Here is a pic of a target used for setting up my poi at 18 yards via "barrel bending" after a new barrel install.........
(https://i.imgur.com/yXJd6eCl.jpg)
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The tool appears to me that it would put a bow into the barrel. I must be missing something as to how this will correct barrel droop? Thanks & Happy Thanksgiving.
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"appears to me that it would put a bow into the barrel"
and
The tool appears to me that it would put a bow into the barrel
Yep, it does put a bow in the barrel but it's so minor that it can't even be seen! Matter of fact, barrels are often bent after manufacturing like this.........
(https://i.imgur.com/OOuO2Qrh.jpg)
"I must be missing something as to how this will correct barrel droop?"
The amount of bend sufficient to move the poi 3" in only 18 yards can't even be seen with the naked eye so any bending is very small! Occasionally I do put more bending in the barrel than necessary, however with the "barrel tweaker" it's easy to reverse the "over bend" to compensate. Here's a pic of both my HW break barrels...........
(https://i.imgur.com/eHEAp7ol.jpg)
What gave me the idea to bend the barrel after having adjustable scope mounts which too a couple hours to set up, only to have them "lose adjustment" during the season was when squirrel hunting with my brother (when living in WV). My brother slipped on a wet mossy rock on a hill and tossed hie R9 muzzle first onto another rock. His muzzle break was scuffed up and his scope shade was dented, however the only damage to the gun was that his poi shifted 3" at 30 yards. All he did was to adjust his zero back to "normal at 30 yards" and all was fine for him. I personally shoot with an optically centered scope and figured that if a "toss of the muzzle on a rock" would move the poi then I really didn't to mess with the hassles of adjustable mounts anymore. That was a couple decades ago and I've been "bending my barrels" since whenever I change scope mounts, scopes, or even barrels.
A couple seasons ago I took a friend to a hunter class field target match and we shared my HW95 for the match. About 1/2 way through the match we both started missing more targets than the norm and found that the poi was "1 mil dot low". We compensated for the rest of the match and when I got home to check why the poi shift I indeed found that the poi was low. What happened was that the friend was "ham fisting" my HW95 when cocking which bent the barrel down a little each time he cocked the gun till the poi shift was noticeable. All that was needed was to add a bit of "snoop" to return the poi to where it was needed! Matter of fact, when I'm at my "back yard practice lane" I have a "barrel tweaking tree" that's used to add a bit of snoop or windage when I'm setting up new optics for the first time..........
(https://i.imgur.com/AIzSnwOl.jpg)(https://i.imgur.com/6vaTNRUl.jpg)
Here is an example of "extreme barrel bending" :o............
(https://i.imgur.com/dr0JUtEh.png)
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Not easy to see, but my new HW95 you could see the droop. 10” low @10m out of the box.
After bending I can see the swoop up without a straight edge. But I am vey close to the scope being centered with the droop mount.
As Lizzie said, the one piece mount stays put.
I think the guy in Ed’s top photo is why mine was drooping down.